Breezy_Pete

I think if I'd thought of looking specifically for such a leak, I would've been able to see it via camera phone pics. I hadn't noticed any obvious wetness or staining below the pump, although some was evident looking from above once the old pump was out of the way. Finished for the day with new kit all on, and torqued up, with the 2 rotations of crank completed happily, both locking tools reinsertable afterwards. First attempt at getting new belt on went wrong somehow; luckily it was obviously wrong cos the three screws in the cam pulley were right at one end of their slots, and the tensioner had seemed too easy to set. Thanks for the interest and support everyone. Won't get back to it until Friday now, to put enough back on to try running it, then everything else, if it works.

It won't be a fuel filter problem.

Thanks to those of you who said 'change it all'. WP appears to have been on the way out.

That's normal in those circumstances.

Yeah, you don't need to spend much to get something that's perfectly adequate. Unfortunately the HTP engines are vulnerable to chain jumping, the tensioner having no ratchet mechanism. Compression test may be the easiest demonstration that something is badly wrong.

Chain, lifetime fit.

Fuse 36? That is permanently live, as are the majority of fuses in the cabin fusebox: 1-6, 8-38, 48-49, 52-54, 59-61. Take your pick!

Might take the Fabia for a spin down to GSF in the morning, to see what they have in stock. Service book says belt was done in 2020, and that was very few miles ago, but I don't know if WP or tensioner/idler were done then: tensioner looks pretty shiny and newish I reckon.

I don't see any pointers on the bracket behind the pulley? Can you mark up the pic? I've seen such a tip for belt replacement before, but the kit of locking tools was £10 delivered, so there's really no grounds for avoiding their use.

Private sale or dealer?

I wonder if I should just replace belt kit and waterpump, now I'm this far in...?

Do you have a compression tester, or know someone you could borrow one from?

A couple of useful byproducts of the day's work. The A/C condenser was looking very clagged-up with 17 year's worth of muck. PO reported that A/C works fine except when ambient temps are really warm, when apparently it throws codes related to G65 sensor. I reckon it may have just been struggling through lack of airflow. Vacuumed out thoroughly, but I may take a hosepipe to it once I've covered up all the cambelt stuff. The crash bar appeared to have suffered from an impact. First I thought, hmm Eddie never mentioned crashing into something. Then I remembered the muntjac, and thought "didn't think it was that much of an impact". Then I started looking for replacements an found that they all look the same; as do some of the new aftermarket ones, so maybe this is just how they are??

Some decent progress today. Got the front off into the service position. Which gives you about 50mm more clearance in front of the crank pulley, but still nothing approaching a view of it without a phone camera, from above or below! Had to take a pic to see what heads the 4 screws that hold the pulley had. Triple-square; nice. Pulley came off without difficulty, thankfully. No sign of any alignment marks on the block. The little triangle/ arrow on the sprocket is visible at about 10 o'clock in tjis shot, and the hole on the block that the locking tool uses is visible looking a bit oval, which I think is a trick of the light and shadows from photography. Got the locking tool in a after a while, and of course the crank needed to go another 360° before the '4Z' lined up correctly with the narrow slot on the cam sensor wheel. 2nd time lucky: Couldn't quite get the cam locking pin in through the cam pulley/sprocket, but I could see it was very close, although even there the visibility is rubbish! Couldn't get a photo that showed how close it was down the slot/ hole. I could get a slightly smaller diameter drill in though, so it's not far away. The tensioner looked to be a fair bit out, I think on the loose side, which may be the next thing to address, tomorrow.

Check fuse 52, which supplies the ignition coils.

Yes, there is one. Part number 045 907 660 D; located just behind the crank pulley. As I said, before, it only senses oil level and temperature. That info can be integrated with other recorded data about vehicle usage pattern so that the 'service required' or oil level warning messaging can be produced at an approximately useful time.

Tell me the VIN (17 character vehicle identification number) if you wish me to check for your vehicle. It will only detect level and temperature, but that is what is required.

The youtube videos made by ross-tech that Nige linked in his post above do a much better job of explaining everything than mere words or pictures can.

See if that ^ suddenly makes you go 'Ahhhhh!'; if not I can make a little video that may be clearer.

Try this page (for a mk1 Fabia, not an Octy) where there are four such rectangles. The 'current path' numbers go from 57 to 70 along the extreme bottom edge of this page (I've put a blue box around them to make them pop a bit more). Two of these rectangles, with numbers 59 and 68 inside them, are 'within page' mutual cross-references, used to avoid the need to have wires crossing over one another, in order to demonstrate the connection which I have added manually in green. The other two go to the previous page in the section, where the two fuses I've mentioned in red font/arrows are to be found.

The 206, 207 and 210 can be found along the bottom (not in rectangles) of the last page of the diagram for that engine, page 8/16. You "look upward" from each of these to find another rectangle with a different number in, which is the 'back reference' taking you to the points on page 8/14 from which you came. Specifically path numbers 178, 179 and 181, as seen along the bottom of that previous page. In this case it's slightly complicated by the fact that there are two rectangles with different numbers in them on path 206, one going to path 61 (page 8/6, the one you found), the other to path 181 (the one you came from). For each section/chapter, the 'current path' numbers along the bottom of each page serve as an index, a subdivision of each page. This allows the point to point cross-referencing of these numbers in rectangles. Thanks for posting @Taylor93, I must admit that the 'explanations' pdf doesn't do a great job of explaining this feature. I thought it was better. I will look out an easier to follow example where the references go to points on the same page, making it easier to describe.

Cabin fuse #40, 7.5 Amp rated, looks to be worth checking, judging by the first diagram I've looked at.

Actually, not sure where I got the impression only one headlight is involved. Did I read that somewhere above or just imagine it?

Does the other headlight adjust its aim in response to the control? I guess it must or both would have been on the fail list. What is the actual failure number? (So I can find the relevant paragraph in the test manual). I can look at circuits if helpful, but would need reg number or VIN to be sure I get the right system variant.