varaderoguy

So - this is not a good situation to be in. The piece that the sensor is eluding is - is on the gear selector shaft. Various folk have had problems here; anything from the collar disintegrating - to the collar itself becoming complete filled up with swaft, comprising the integrity of the sensor (ie an electrical or sensing short). It means a repair to replace the gear selector shaft usually as a first call and will mean getting into the guts of the gearbox; you should go and investigate and find a specialist VAG and ideally a DSG repair specialist. As you are in Gloucestershire, you might want to go and chat with these folk: https://www.bristoltransmissions.co.uk/transmissions/dsg-dct-transmission/common-issues/

Short answer - yes - absolutely no problems. Generally as long as the replacement car has the same wheel profile, you should be good to go. A lot of the FL Octy's have 17", but a lot of the smaller engined (1.0tsi, 1,4tsi) have the smaller wheel profile (ie 16").

Jay, Lets do this....but your instructions on how to do for a Superb won't work on an Octavia (wouldn't it be nice). If you go to the top of this forum, it should show you the necessary details for a non-FL Octavia but there will he tweaks necessary (for MIB2 and MIB2.5 settings for FL models). Will revisit when Im done outside later on today.

Well done Jay, Glad you found all of the menus on the your Virtual Dashboard and I'm also glad you found the AdBlue remaining settings. Flick through all of those menu options; you will find information about what the Radio, Phone and various other car status options. So - to your question about MIB. MIB stands for Modular Infortainment Platform. This was generally start back on the MK2 Octavias, but the MK3's brought the MIB infortainment concept to the masses. Generally, there are three or four types of MIB. MIB or MIB1 - was on the original Infortainment system - generally found on VW Group cars between 2013 and 2017. The newer generation (generally the buttonless radios) was called the MIB2 with the last of the MK3 FL Octavia's having a MIB2.5 system (generally - online connected devices). The latest generation of Octavias have MIB3 systems. I would say that if you are interested in doing light modifications to your Octavia, then your MK3 FL Scout is in a particularly fine place. I have spent (too many) hours doing modifications to my Octavia via software. The Scout is particularly interesting, because it is a high-spec car; however, the factory in Mlada have not enabled a load of functions, so if you are interested, features such as reading speed limit sighs, Lights Assist, Off-road status, tweaking Daylight running lights with indicators, enabling both fog lights etc etc etc can all be enabled for free. If you are interested in this, then I will introduce you to @SashaGraceis an evil genius with modifications on her Octavia. If you want to upgrade your radio to either an Amunsden or Columbus, then you need to speak with @pab567 who will help with you the upgrade. You may or may not have the appropriate GPS receiver on the roof of your car - this can be retrofitted and bar the coding of the car and modules, the radios are generally plug and play. Well done and I hope you enjoy your Scout. Please keep it and look after it well - they are a *super* rare car and whilst I think you can get MK4 Octavia Scouts, your MK3 Scout will keep its value for many years.

Oh thats nice. A Scout with a Virtual Dashboard. I want one for my Scout! However - you are looking for the AdBlue settings in the wrong place. It isn't on the centre consule or MIB2 interface - the settings are on the Virtual Dashboard. Using the righthand button on the steering wheel marked with two squares inside each other, you will enter into the various system menus for the car. Select - Vehicle Information. Now using the scroll wheel - scroll around until you find the AdBlue information. The offer of a Zoom meeting to assist is still on the cards if you want it.

Air care should be left on....it properly filters the air; expecially on recirculation. I never got the settings for "super-cool" HVAC from @SashaGrace, but if you look elsewhere in the forum, they will be there (try in the VCDS area).

Well, it all depends on your location. I am aware because I was told by @SashaGracethat there is a mode that you can enable to "improve" the HVAC system to make it super-cold. Depending on where your car is based, it could be this that is enabled. Other things; do you have the Aux-Heater option and if so, is it switched in. Do you also have Air-Care switched in too. Try pressing the Menu button for the HVAC system and go to settings.

You are *always* have to deal with contention ratios. It really depends on the service provider. Remember that Openreach (a wholey owned subsidary of BT) is the provider of the infrastructure that your service will go over. The contention will all depend on your *service* provider e.g. Virgin Media or SKY or BT Wholesale themselves. It also depends on whether your service provider has a PoP (Point of Presence) in an exchange or sub-exchange and this will determine whether a solution will be provided as "on-net" or "off-net". On-Net means that a service provider has a PoP in a local DSLAM or Exchange and will carry their service back to their data centre via their own dedicated link (usually dark-fibre) or whether it is Off-Net - which means that the service provider will carry their service on a VPN across BT's MPLS backbone. You've got to think fibre to the premise as being more akin to a network switch - there is contention, but the ratio will be lower that FTTP or ADSL services.

Did you code in the new battery? If you didn't, then the car won't charge the new battery correctly. You will need a VCDS system to code in the new car battery. Oddly enough, I would also make sure that you put in new batteries into the keyfob (I know this is a weird one, but bare with me). I've found on my 2016 Scout that when the keyfob battery was low, all kinds of stupid, random error messages would appear including tyre-pressure warnings.

Yes agreed about the maps. Skoda always said that the 16G card was going to struggle with the ECE1 maps at some point. I've manage to put the 20/21 maps onto a 16G card for my MIB2.5 Amunsden for my VRS, but I took the plunge and got a 32G card for my Scout middle of this year.....everything from Iceland to Russia....cool...

In all fairness, the various individual apps that Skoda were pushing out was a complete mess, so this is high-time. I don't know why they never put it all into Skoda Connect from day one.

The other option is for a backward facing child seat in the front seat and disable the front airbag. Your partner could then use the hot seat in the middle seat in the back.

If you can buy a manual diesel VRS, it is possible to get 55mpg from it quite easily. Please note that MPG during winter months is considerably worse below 7C (typically down to 45 to 48mpg). If you are doing long journeys, then the diesel is excellent value for money.

Sounds like the tracking is out. A bit of a weak point IMHO. You might want to organise a 4 wheel alignment.

Actually it only cost me half of that cost. The car was under a Skoda Warranty and the selling dealer agreed to pay half towards a new clutch....so it had to remain under Skoda parts, labour for the 2 year warranty. The vehicle is a 67 plate car....it seems to be a common problem with clutches on the VRS with a manual gearbox.

The other possibility is the expansion cap itself. They also fail.

@JayLiboveMaybe you can do a Zoom meeting with myself if you are free and I can talk you through the settings for reset the Odometer as well as finding where the Ad-Blue is configured. If it is missing, it can be enabled (assuming you have a Mk3 and not a Mk4 Octy). I will just need to check my 09 module to check.

Its a gradual failing of the waterpump in the car. The TDI's use some coolant when doing regens; its perfectly normal to top up the coolant header tank after a good hot regen process. However, what you describe is not normal. It sounds like a waterseal in waterpump is gradually failing and is beginning to leak water. You need to get this sorted now, because otherwise it will fail catastrophically. In the morning, get under the car and look for a damp patch where the waterpump is located. Time to do a timing belt and waterpump Im afraid. Ignore your mechanic....and you will also need a coolant change with G13. If your header tank has 'Mit Silikon' on the side, you will also need a new header tank (unless you are lucky enough to have the version where you can fish it out by hand).

Ooohhh....thats the Selkirk to Moffet road by the SB boundary with Dumfries and Galloway near St Marys Loch. Lovely.

All fixed - yes, you were right. The level of water contents in relation to the concentration of the coolant.

I am assuming that the water pump was done at the same time. Check the header tank level. If its dropped suddenly, then you've got a waterpump failing. The other thing is the coolant itself. When was the last time it was done? Has anybody checked to see what the hygroscopic level of water is inside your coolent recently? Can you also (whilst you are at it....look at the coolant header tank itself). If the coolant tank has "mit silikone" on it and the tank is looking gungy, then you need URGENTLY to replace the header tank as the silicon bag maybe failing (which will knacker up your cooling and heating system).

Well, I had this problem on my first ever car. The problem is down to the wear of the trust release bearings and is part of the clutch mechanism, New clutch, thrust plate and Slave Cylinder - this recently cost me £980 at West End Skoda in Edinburgh. If you are being thorough, then I would also request a gearbox oil change - which will massively improve the gearbox and make gear changes SOOO much nicer. If you aren't fussed with original parts, then I suggest pattened parts - cost will be closer to £700. I am also assuming that you've been good and not abused the clutch. Dual Mass Flyswheels are usually a £400 addition (luckily didn't need them when I had the clutch done on my VRS).

Daffy question, but I assume that there is nothing in the side door pocket? The padding they put in at the factory is rubbish. Best to put in your own additional padding - using something like this stuff: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scratch-Motorcycle-Motorbike-Luggage-Passenger/dp/B00DVP0HSG

Taken from the Manual - it doesn't mention any changes to the braking profile, so maybe this is a tyre issue: Speed symbolAll-season or “winter” tyres (marked with M+S and a peak/snowflake symbol) of a lower speed category than stated in the technical vehicle documenta-tion can be used, provided the permissible maximum speed of these tyres isnot exceeded even if the possible maximum speed of the vehicle is higher.The speed limit for all-season or “winter” tyres can be set in the infotainmentsystem in menu /  →  → Tyres.If the vehicle has all-season or “winter” tires of a lower speed category thanthe specified maximum speed of the vehicle (referring to tyres that have notbeen delivered by the factory), then a warning label with the maximum value ofthe speed category provided for the fitted tyres must be fixed in the interior ofthe vehicle in a constantly visible place in the driver’s field of vision. The warn-ing label (sticker) can be replaced by setting the maximum value of the speedcategory specified for the mounted tyres in Infotainment (only applies to cer-tain countries). This specification defines the maximum vehicle speed withmounted all-season or “winter”tyres that may not be exceeded.

Good call - and thanks for asking. I am on a set of brand new (they've been on the car for 600 miles) of Pirelli Winter SottoZero 3 tyres. I do have Winter Tyre mode enabled....I promise I won't break the speed limit in the Borders!