varaderoguy

I suggest that you might want to save yourself some Dosh and put in standard diesel plus some Maximus Cetane improver (https://www.hydra-int.com/maximus-diesel-power-booster.html). Far cheaper and better on your wallet.

Okay - with the DPF, you can try and tackle it two ways. Take the car on a long, fast progessive run and see if that clears it out OR you can force a regen on the move OR you can regen statically. Module 01 (engine), Basic Settings and 'Perform a regen when static'. I personally recommend that you also put in some Cetain improver into the diesel which helps the burn and cleans out the DPF and EGR valve in the process. I personally use https://www.hydra-int.com/diesel-power-blast.html a bottle for £10 will let you feel it working properly and keep your engine happy.

If you have access to a ramp, then it makes it easier as it is at the bottom of the engine bay to change the water pump.

The Pirelli P-Zero tyres are generally quite good, although some folk have their issues with them. In terms of a bulge, that is a manufacturer fault and the tyre should be replaced. The VRS cars are hard on their tyres. I would personally recommend going which Michelin tyres which seem to work very well on cars I've had with 19" inch wheels.

Diesel engines cost about £600 to get done if you want the two year Skoda warranty with the work done at a main dealer. Independants tend to cost between £350 and £500. You can confirm the costs here: https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance-fixed-price

That's going to need welding work done on it. It all looks straight enough, so I think you are right to make your local Skoda dealer aware. Ask them to make sure that Skoda UK are also aware of this - hopefully this is a one-off, but it might not be. There is no evidence of a repair from your photos of repairs in that area. Eyk.

It is possible, but requires a whole load of changed out parts (including new door card inserts). I know that @SashaGrace looked into doing this on her 2014 Octavia VRS.

That usually the first sign (of two) that your water pump is on its way out. The impeller is gradually disintegrating and it needs replacing. Next you will get a major overheat issue and a breakdown.

Yes... rules of random error messages...check battery. Also check the battery terminals are not loose or corroded.

I've asked this gets moved to the MK2 Octavia section where you might get further help.

@J.R I am trying to get folk to do things properly. I agree that the pump does prime at start but it is momentary. To get sufficient oil into all parts of the pump it needs to be primed and this can take anywhere from 5 to 10 seconds. This is a standard process on VCDS and it wouldn't need to be there if the process didn't needed to be followed. The oil level is really important and if it isn't done right, you won't have a proper functioning HALDEX system. You also have to remember that the HALDEX clutch doesn't have monitoring internally, so you are reliant on getting the servicing process right from the off. In terms of Winter or Summer, the HALDEX system will kick in anytime of the year but you will need it more in the wetter/cooler months of Winter.

Yes, if you use Autoglym Leather Cleaner and Autoglym Leather Care. I use it every 6 months on my Octavia Scout and VRS. There is more information here: https://www.autoglym.com/leather-clean-protect-complete-kit

There are several folk near you who have VCDS so I recommend getting the pump primed prior to Winter use. There is a danger that if you don't that either the pump won't activate or you will be low in fluid on oil in the HALDEX box.

Might I suggest speaking with a car upholstery specialist in Dorset? They may be able to repair the seat for a cost effective price. A quick Google shows that there seem to be several around Poole area. You also need to make sure you feed/clean the shiny leather every 6 months or so to keep it good.

Folks, Something I wanted to mention about parts for Skoda's and other VAG group cars. There seems to be a longer and longer waiting list for parts at the moment (at least at my local dealer). It seems that TPS (which Skoda tend to use) are having issues with obtaining parts due to Brexit (Customs issues) and COVID (not enough people to push parts through the chain). This extends into routine maintenance parts. For example, a handbrake assembly for my VRS is on 2 months back order and prices for various components are rising exponentially. If you get an extended delivery time or waiting time on parts for repairs you'll know why.

If you manage to get yourself a TDI VRS, if you drive it normally (ie not rag it), then you will get 45-50mpg without breaking sweat. I would always suggest to go for the 184bhp engine, because you loose very little MPG, but gain a quite a lot of extra humph. Try and get one with as many toys as you can afford.

At this point, we need to bring is @pab567 who can hopefully give you access to the 0478 firmware needed to get your system working properly. 0472 is rather old and glitchy for your Amunsden.

Yes - it all depends on the duty cycle - how many times has the starter motor being used. If you are stop/starting all day long, e.g. taxis driver, then it will wear out quickly.

@stever750 - sorry to hear you having issues with Android Auto. I suspect it will be a firmware update that will need to be applied to your Bolaro/Amunsden or Columbus system. Can you take a photo of the front of the system and then when switched on - Press and HOLD the Menu Button, go to Software Version and then press Versions at the top of the screen - and take a photo of that info pls.

@mpm44 - well done - glad it got sorted. Now you've found a decent service place, you'll have to drive the 500 odd miles each way to keep it serviced there. ROFL

Yerr - welcome to the world of time-based acceleration. All VW, Seat and Skodas are configured with a time based acceleration from the factory - as opposed to Audi - who have a linear based setup. Transforms the car. Scroll down to Gizmo's posting - who gives you the mods you need. Whilst you are online on VCDS or ODBEleven - just make sure your pedal is not going faulty - because that will also give the same jerky throttle response.

Starter motors are generally items that can be refurbished and reused, but they do have a life-cycle and a number of times they can be used before they need replacement. There is little you can do to keep the electronics working and in-essence these items tend to be sealed units.

This is true - VAG have dropped updating the old MIB1 units. The other way forward on that one is that you will need an MIB2 replacement unit.

Yes - you will need to disconnect the starter motor and electrically test the resistance of the electrical windings. I think you will find that when you warm up the start motor (a hairdryer should help), you will find that the start motor goes "open-circuit" and electrically will not pass any current. In Croatian via Google Translate: Da - morat ćete odspojiti motor startera i električno ispitati otpor električnih namota. Mislim da ćete otkriti da kada zagrijete startni motor (trebao bi vam pomoći sušilo za kosu), otkrit ćete da startni motor ide u "otvoreni krug" i električno neće propuštati nikakvu struju.

If you are still stuck, I'm v.close to the A1 just north of the Scottish Border.