varaderoguy

As long as the oil meets the standard for VW507 oil, you are good, but agree that 0W30 oil is best and as OP posted an image for Longlife FEIII - this is good stuff.

Be v.careful @Noman9Vrs - if a selling dealer says they have serviced the car, but they haven't reset the service interval on the car, then essentially, this is why the car is showing service due. However, because it is a TDI - it might be a situation that the car is running in a different way and there maybe crud that had built up that is now been released and the oil is now needing a change (again). I would recommend that if you can afford it, you go with genuine service Oil (VAG Longlife FEIII - 0W30) and a genuine oil filter too. As Mr @e-Roottoot (or Sir as I like to call him) correctly states 😜, look at the mouse-mat graphic showing what is due for servicing. Basically, extended scope service plus brake fluid change. Be prepared for a cambelt change in the next 20k miles - a general inspection of the belt to see if it is cracking will give you an indicator if it needs changing sooner rather than later. Generally rule is thus: change the oil and filter every 10k miles - car will see you right for a further 400k miles!!!! (google Miles the High Mileage Octavia)

I think the crunch will be around MOT time and European Port Entry . In accordance with Michael Gove's Department for the Union, they want to foist this onto everyone. Trouble is that 49% of us folk who didn't vote for this stupid Brexit - don't want anything to do with this car crash and I definately don't want my car shouting its "UK" credentials, just so it can be key'd in a carpark if I fancy a quick trip to Calais. So - the question is this: For those of us who live in Scotland or Wales who feel Scottish or Welsh - how do we honour our pride in our country? There is nothing united about the UK at the moment. By foisting this edict onto the nations of the UK, they are saying that we don't matter or care. Westminster would love nothing more for Scotland and Wales to become obsolite in terms of nation names. Nothing could be further from the truth. The pragmatic approach is that Europe allows for Scottish, Welsh and Northern Ireland folk to who want to profess their pride in their part of this island set - to present their appropriate country code on their car. You can bet that a good number of MOT testers will be more than happy to pass cars with their appropriate country numberplates. Now confusingly enough, most folk in Scotland drive around with SCO numberplate flag (including me) - but that's not the Chapman coding for Scotland - its SCT. Wales is WLS. NIR is Northern Ireland.

Nope - Skoda dealer won't rise an eyebrow. You will be fixing issues, not breaking them! If it makes you feel happier, then make sure you perform the firmware checksum on the MIB software version. That way, they definately won't know!!! 🙂

Heck - that's not good. All Priority 2 faults - the worrying one from me is no coolant flowing and that will cause the engine to shutdown. You might want to look at that as a first starting place.

If you speak with @pab567 he will hopefully be able to assist. I canny send out these.

who can offer the hardware. A Bolaro screen from FL 2017 and head unit are drop-in replacements (but need configuring to match your car). This way you will get the language you want.

If you really want the Danish Language, you can do an MIB2 upgrade. Speak with @pab567

Thanks folks. I'll see how much the part is from Horton Skoda and get it installed. So....I have to remove the 3 clips, assume they pull off, remove the rubber surrounding and then gain access to the sensor on the passenger side. Sounds fairly easy.

Try syncronising up the HVAC system - its got out of sync - Press and hold - AC AND Air/Face button together for 5 secs until both buttons are flashing. It will take a minute or so to resyncronise - see if that fixes the fault. Otherwise a scan and/or dealer visit reqd.

Hey Folks, I've been asked to look at a local Superb III by a resident in the village. It is a 2016 SE Business specification - nice car, but it is a little poorly. I first arrived to a car with an engine warning management light on; the owner was convienced his car was failing (he said Lamda, but the engine warning light covers up a multitude of sins), but like a lot of VAG cars - they tend to build up faults and then not clear them down. Lots of spurious faults as per normal (probably battery related), but the one fault we have that will not clear is the Air-Quality Warning Sensor that has malfunctioned. On arrival, we had: Address 08: Auto HVAC (E87) Labels:| 3V0-907-044.clb Part No SW: 3V0 907 044 AQ HW: 3V0 907 044 AQ Component: AC Automat H32 3701 Revision: 20K05000 Serial number: 00000B00097457 Coding: 12110104002100011005000000101002 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00063 ASAM Dataset: EV_ACClimaPrehVW37X 002012 ROD: EV_ACClimaPrehVW37X_002_VW37.rod VCID: 0353898C2B945443BA0-8056 1 Fault Found: 263425 - Air Quality Sensor B10AF 04 [009] - Internal System Fault Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 254 Reset counter: 20 Mileage: 166398 km Date: 2020.03.05 Time: 18:39:21 Outside temperature: 4.5 °C Voltage terminal 30: 14.1 V System run time-Engine running time: 253 s System run time-Terminal 15 on: 253 s Air quality status: Malfunction System run time-Engine running time: 253 s System run time-Terminal 15 on: 253 s Not a happy sensor - reporting temperature was cool when it wasn't. I've saved the full scan. Post clear DTCs - Engine Management light is now OFF - however the Air Quality Sensor is still showing unhappy: Address 08: Auto HVAC (E87) Labels:| 3V0-907-044.clb Part No SW: 3V0 907 044 AQ HW: 3V0 907 044 AQ Component: AC Automat H32 3701 Revision: 20K05000 Serial number: 00000B00097457 Coding: 12110104002100011005000000101002 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00063 ASAM Dataset: EV_ACClimaPrehVW37X 002012 ROD: EV_ACClimaPrehVW37X_002_VW37.rod VCID: 0353898C2B945443BA0-8056 1 Fault Found: 263425 - Air Quality Sensor B10AF 04 [009] - Internal System Fault Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 20 Mileage: 190391 km Date: 2021.09.26 Time: 10:16:59 Outside temperature: 17.5 °C Voltage terminal 30: 13.1 V System run time-Engine running time: 253 s System run time-Terminal 15 on: 253 s Air quality status: Malfunction System run time-Engine running time: 253 s System run time-Terminal 15 on: 253 s At least it is looking happier, but the sensor is obviously not a happy beano. I'm trying to find where the sensor is located and how you get to it - reports I've read seems to be its under the scuttle on the passenger side or drivers side.....Car is UK RHD spec. Any pointers would be apprechiated. I'd like to do the job myself if I can, I've got the tools....I'll check it out on erwin to see if I can find the correct part number too. Many thanks Max

You are looking for oils that are VW504 and VW507 rated.

Press and hold the Power button for 8 seconds to get a soft reset.

Speak with @pab567 who can assist with the firmware. Go to the Audio section of Briskoda and you will find my article about how to upgrade the firmware.

If you update to version 0480, that will most probably fix your AA issues. 0468 is shash....you won't get much joy with it.

Have a look at this: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18995/P2563/009571

Only if the firmware supports it. I am surprised that a European MIB image doesn't come with Danish as standard (even for an MIB1 system)

I've had numerous MK2 and MK3's over the last couple of years - in different forms and guises - and they have ALL had issues with poor wheel alignment and premature tyre wear. I have found that the toe is particular suspetible to change and that the rears tend to be more like to suffer from crabbing or misalignment. I avoid pot holes at all time.....Scotland's roads are not the best (especially in the Borders)

Definitely tracking. The Octavia is known for throwing out its tracking (I do mega miles so mine get every 6 months)

Weekly page reminder: remember to tag @pab567 into your postings, he isn't a mind reader and he isn't plugged into the matrix 24/7 (aka Briskoda). 😁

If the clutch is sticking, it is either going to be hydralic or mechanical. Stupid/daffy points first: You don't have the mats trapping the path of the clutch pedal - either depressing or return....sorry, gotta ask the question. More sensible points: Clutch slave cylinders themselves are not expensive parts, but they are a little fiddly to install. £1200 is too much - go to another dealer or VW specialist. Did they change the clutch itself or just the assembly? By saying it doesn't have much travel, is this the pedal not returning to top and essentially only returning to the half-way position? The clutch pedal is connected to the slave cylinder mechanically (is this free) and the slave cylinder is connected to the master cylinder. Its worth breaking down the problem into those two chunks. If those parts are good, then we are looking at the clutch assembly itself - why is this not engaging or disengaging properly? When they installed (or if they installed a new clutch assembly) was it all centred properly using a centring tool (a £3 device) to make sure that everything is centred to allow for even wear and for ease of engagement and disengagement. The clutch disc, the pressure plate and the release baring must all be on straight, otherwise the release fork won't work properly.

@BobTroll - this is all fine. Modern Skodas from about 2005 onwards are all controlled, logged and maintained via information sent along the electronic wires in a faux network called CANBUS. This is the situation for all modern cars. To try and help the situation, we need a scan of your car to see the way it is configured (and how we can proffer assistance). To do that, there are two main tools on the market: ODBEleven and VCDS . ODBEleven can be purchased from £59.99 upwards. VCDS is more expense, PC based and dongle based, but better to use. Its usual to have an ODBEleven in your glovebox to find out what the car is REALLY saying when it throws up an error. I would personally recommend ALL Skoda/VW/Audi/Seat drivers have one.

Trying to big you up my friend....bigging you up!

Get version 0480 of firmware and the latest maps on there and see if that makes a difference.

We need a scan.....find your nearest VCDS person and post up the errors....we might be able to assist with some more info.