varaderoguy

No that isn't correct. For the maps I agree you need the original card but for updates and other media you don't.

I am assuming you are putting on the correct SOP version for updating. If you press and HOLD menu button, go to Versions and software version, and press versions again, what is your version of software on your existing system? Remember 02xx can only be upgraded to 02xx versions (0253 I think), 03xx to 0363 and 04xx to 0480.

With a 32G card, you should be fine with FAT32. If you want to partition it down to a 16G card, that may help. If you provided nice small sector sizes of 4096/4k bytes, this will also help by improving reading speed. What happens when you try and put in the card into slot 1, does it say 'Card not found' or similar message? Have you removed the card in slot 2 as well?

I guarantee that you won't be able to remove the old grill in one piece; it is generally a one-way fit. Struggle removing the old one - fitting the new one is a five mins job.

Component Protection has to be done by your local Skoda Dealer. It should be just plug and play between your MIB1 and MIB2 head units....surprised if it isn't. Putting the head unit back in is tricky....it requires you to feel at the back of the head unit and gently guide the cable loom back into place.

skoda-parts.com or from your local Skoda dealer.

I think that any of us on Finance will be laughing all the way to the bank....if dealers want our cars, they will have to pay us properly for them.

humm....do you have KESSY (keyless start and open)? Your car being a VRS and all that jazz. You should not keep Keys 1 and 2 together under any circumstances. They will interfere electronically with each other and cause faults and drain the CR2025 batteries really quickly.

Yes, it does. If you are sticking with the original head unit, then you will to find out if the system can be adjusted to support the lower inpedience/resistance values of the new speakers. Danger being you might damage your new speakers with the output of the MIB system. It may also mess around with the CANBUS reporting (because I noticed that when I replaced my headunit recently, it reported channel faults L/R, so these are also monitored).

Maps updates from https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ It might be possible to enable up Mirrorlink on your MIB system (your car was on the year change for Mirrorlink being available) - which will give you either Android Auto or Apple Carplay. For this, you will need a license FeC code to enable up your system. Failing that; the latest maps will be for 2020 (as VAG stopped support MIB1 systems after that time). If you speak nicely to @pab567 he may be able to supply you an MIB2 unit with Mirrorlink enabled.

Soot in that area indicates you have either a EGR or Exhaust leak...

The scraping noise is most likely from the brake protection shields that are made out of russian steel....you'll find one of the fasteners for the backplate has broken and is scraping metal/metal when braking. Wiggle the backplates on RSF and FSR and see which one is loose.

Wrong place - the USB cabling for the back is powered off a loop from the 12v socket in the centre binicle.

I think it sounds like a dealer visit is due. I suspect your initial diagnosis is probably right. Injectors do fail, but the performance issues will probably only be shown on a scan.

Its probably the water pump going south. Get it and the cambelt replaced ASAP.

@OldAndyMac the clue is in the top posting. I suspect you haven't enabled up the Sound channel properly and have either accidently disabled sound or put it into a mode that is not supported when trying to enable Skoda Surround. I did this recently (by accident). Try setting the sound output to mode hex01 (internal_sound) and see if the sound comes back.

Yes...flap motor is faulty. Sorry, it's a bit of a pain to get to but it can be changed. It's a rare failure so sorry you've had to take this one on.

@Wino @cheezemonkhai Okay - so in that case, what is the EGR used for (to help reduce the temperature of the exhaust gas) & also that is also the point of the Ad-Blue system in my Scout - to convert NOx into Nitrogen and Water. Really?? I admit I see them queuing up at Morrisons and Asda near me, but that's quite a sweeping statement. None of us like throwing money away....its all about trying to keep your vehicle running as smoothly as possible for a long as possible. Additives do help keep things working smoothly. My experience of supermarket fuels is that it makes the vehicles run lumpy, flat performance and with poor mpg....

There are folk out there that trust the fuel companies and will run just Supermarket fuels without any consideration and just love with it (why should I pay anymore for fuel) and then there are car folk who pander their cars (that's me) and make sure they have the best of the best. The biggest issue is that fuel prices are very high, so a good way to get premium performance from a supermarket fuel is to put an additive into it. I know that all fuels have to meet a British Standard, but in essence you just have Petrol and Diesel. From the refinaries the petrol tanker driver delivers the fuel to the garage and THEN puts in the company additive at the point of delivery. The only company that doesn't do that is Shell who have their own Ecosystem of delivery from a central UK storage location. Technically, standard fuels from Supermarkets are fine. The Supermarkets save money by not putting in any additives. For Diesel, this means that they leave out any Cetane to improve the burn cycle and reduce NOx emissions. For Petrol, for standard 95RON, by leaving out additives to improve the burning cycle, it keeps the price low. Fuel Improvers add that stuff back in (and usually quite a bit cheaper than Fuel companies). You will get a higher RON rating with using a fuel additive for Petrol. I am personally all about how an engine performs, sounds and how much I get back in terms of MPG/Litres per 100kms. I DO trust certain 'snake oil' fuel improvers but I do mega miles each year for my job, so I get to check them all out. For me, fuel Improvers keep everything running sweetly and save me fuel and stops my Octavia TDI engine sounding like a 1990's London Taxis. My TDI engined VRS (just sold) had been run on Supermarket Diesel all its life by its former owner. No issues really other that performance was sluggish. A good run didn't fix things, so I went down the route of a Cetane improver and it began the process of cleaning out the EGR and DPF filters. That car had done 59k miles when I got it with basic servicing. The fuel Improver started the process of cleaning out the crud in the EGR valve and began the process of cleaning the DPF. This took a while.... performance was pants and the car sounded like a tractor for weeks. A sooty cough (that's the car ejecting the built up dirt) seemed to do the trick and it ran a lot better from that point and a lot quieter. MPG also improved.

Oh...sorry for leading down the garden path there. My fault...thanks @langers2k

I would order directly from theskodashop.co.uk (Horton Skoda). You will need to phone them up (speak to Matt in Parts), quote the part numbers and he will send you a bill electronically to settle. Parts will be sent out to you when they arrive.... however, there is a backlog of parts, so it may take time.

With PCP, you are in essence paying mostly interest and a tiny portion of the capital of the car (think of it something like an Interest only mortgage). With Hire Purchase, this is akin to a standard repayment mortgage. At the end of the initial term - anything from 24 to 37 months, you have to pay down the lump sum. As you are paying down less on PCP, this is why there is a mileage restriction, so to try and keep the value up. You have three choices; keep the car and finance the remainder of the value of the car. You can trade it in against the value of a new car (deposit/down payment) or as long as the mileage is kept within the initial agreed limits, you can walk away with no more to pay. Of course, dealers want your trade, so they will give you extra against your trade in to allow you to trade up to a new car. Does that help?

Yes, you will get that info from Erwin. I don't count 7 euros for an hour's investigation excessive.

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Somebody asked a similar question recently. It's worth a search..... In essence, you need the wiring loom which can be got online and the head unit plus new screen. The Swing unit is just a screen with some basic electronics.