varaderoguy

Dead Battery? Bump starting a modern car is generally a no-no these days. Okay, if the car if dead, this is what you do: 1) Open up the car manually using the hidden key unlock on the drivers door. 2) Get a trickle charger and connect into the 12v socket. DO NOT START CAR. When there is some basic charge, unlock the central locking. 3) Open up passenger door and unlatch the bonnet. 4) Connect up big charging or jump battery. Positive to Battery and Negative to the terminal behind the battery. 5) Now try starting the car. If still electrically dead, check fuses or call breakdown.

Can I mention something about the OEM Bridgestone tyres. They are dreadful. I had a 2018 VRS Diesel TDI186 on 18" tyres. Lovely car but the handling was dreadful and it seemingly kept on having its alignment thrown out. The Bridgestone tyres kept on wearing very badly and the handling was terrible. Several alignments later the problem was still not fixed. I had to sell the car with new tyres, but before I did this, I put on a set of 4 Michelin Pilot Sport tyres. What a transformation. The suspension relaxed and the driving experience got a lot better. I personally hate Bridgestone's....every car or motorcycle Ive ever had with them on has been horrible. Other tyre manufacturers are considerably better.

Okay - assuming that the MK2 is on a Euro5 engine. Has this been given the 'Diesel-gate modification' from Skoda or not? EGR valves - they tend to get gummed up by their very-nature of gas-recirculation. However, something that might help you here. 1) What is your typical journey like? If its short, then you need to take the car on a VERY long/high RPM Italian tune-up to get all the crud out of the system 2) What fuel are you running on? If Supermarket, when you next fill up, go and put in a tank of hi-addertive Diesel (super-diesel) and take for a good long/fast run 3) You can take out the EGR valve and clean it out. Most local mechanics can do this or there are numerous threads about using various chemicals to clean out the EGR valve itself. 4) The Gas-recirculation valve might have gone open/circuit, but it will most likey be either stuck open or closed. Have a further look at this link from Ross-tech to help you: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16787/P0403/001027 If you look elsewhere (in the VCDS section of the forum), if you find somebody close to you with a VCDS system, then maybe you can socially distance meet - and for them to read the codes from your car.

The Skoda configuration in CZ supplies the Scout with 18" rims

The key pointer here - is to use the Ferrite Core that should have been provided in the kit. Wrap around the incoming power cable into Ferrite Core (usually twice) and this cancels out stray DC RF noise.

Speak with @SashaGracewho has retrofitted Electric bootlift to her VRS.

Temporary Work around - put the headlights into manual mode.

For your purpose, you are either looking at mini or micro blade fuses. You need to get out your manual and see what the fusebox gives you (you will need a magnifying glass to look at the diagram). It depends on whether you want a switched or a non-switched feed as well. You can definately split the feed into two. What systems did you have in mind? Was it for a Dashcam?

Spoke to my dealer about the MK4 Octavia Scout. Looks promising that Skoda will release that model in the middle of this year, so you may get close to a (high-end) standard spec Octavia.

Sorry to hear about your clutch problems. Turns out this is a growing issues as the MK3's get older. Yes, Slave Cylinder problems are realitvely well known. It sounds like you've had a slowly leaking hydralic slave cylinder for a while now - and this may have compromised the clutch and its operation. So - to prices.....if we look at a genuine clutch change, the slave cylinder is replaced as part of a clutch change, so you get both fixed. I had a clutch replaced on my 2017 MY18 VRS recently and for a clutch and slave cylinder, it cost £984 (in Edinburgh)....I know prices down south are higher, but that price also looks like a replacement of Dual Mass Flywheel - which is a nominal 600quid extra, which is getting you close to your £1824 price. Local VAG specialist - this looks like a price for clutch and slave cylinder only. Local Garage - HAHA - Special Tool - all that will be a PLASTIC Clutch centring tool. Its not resetting anything - other than the position of the clutch plate and thrust bearings. I wouldn't play nicely on this one. (goes away and thinks about other meanings for Special Tool) Local mechanic - that price is for clutch plates only. Suggestions: 1) Remember, there is a two year warranty applied to work done by a VAG dealer (inc. Skoda). See if that is something that would make you happier and whether you want to keep the car long term. 2) Ask for a revised price from Skoda Dealer for Clutch and Slave Cylinder replacement only. Ask them to quote for a DMFW seperately. For the rest of them, ask them all what they are replacing. Budget around £1000 for Clutch plates and Slave Cylinder work. Budget for another £600 if the Dual Mass Flywheel needs replacement.

So - maps are still available for MIB2 systems - best make sure you have the latest firmware and if you look elsewhere on the forum (in the Car Entertainment forum), you will find links to the latest maps for your system. The policy of charging for the maps stopped a couple of years back, so you should be able to update the sat-nav maps until such time as VW stop supporting it.

I had a replacement clutch on my MY18 VRS at 31k miles. Its a known issue (look at any VW Golf forum). The clutches are not strong. The selling dealer paid half towards a new clutch on ours, so we only had to pay 400 odd quid. I would recommend DSG gearboxes for VRS/GTI's. Possible replacement of dual mass flywheel if that has been abused with drag starts. After market clutch kits probably recommend. Speak to a good local VW specialist who will be able to help and probably save yourself 200 quid. Depends on whether you want decent quality or whether replacement is done on price.

Digital dashboards can be retrofitted. You need to speak with @SashaGrace who will give you the direction for that. My advice....find the best spec Superbe you can get, then add in all the bits you always wanted to make it yours.

Hey Welcome fellow Scout owner. Love these cars - I'm on my third Scout!! I would love to see how you got the double USB kit - assuming these only provide power. Something else to do my 2019 Scout!! Re: MIB1 system. If you speak v.nicely to @pab567 he might be able to assist you with an Amunsden MIB2 system and you can retro-fit a GPS unit on the dashboard (noticed you don't have a sharkfin on the roof).

Yes - decent quality fuel - not supermarket fuel - i.e. a branded fuel (Shell/BP/Esso) with additives. I know that other none-branded fuel's meet BSI requirements, BS EN288 (unleaded) or diesel BS EN590 (minimum requirements), but not all fuel is created equally.

As an aside, found the earth wires on all 4 cylinders had a lot of corrosion on them. Wire-brushed and copper-slipped the connections.

Hello all, Need some help please. Tried to do a sparkplug change on my 33k mile VRS 2.0 TSI (2017) MK3 Octavia today. Car has had a hard life, so checking out the wear/tear and replace the sparkplugs if necessary. Car is running slightly lumpy, so just wanted to make sure the correct gaps on the plugs are good and no excessive soot. Can you folk recommend the correct sparkplug spanner? Need the correct spanner to remove the sparkplugs. Managed to remove the coil pack just fine; realised my Halfords Professional tool chest didn't have the correct sparkplug removal tool for the (16mm/ 5/8th). The Americans use a 5/8" socket. Can you recommend a tool please? Thanks

Generally, the 1.8TSI engines were good if they were well maintained. However, the downside of those engines is the extremely poor MPG. You are generally lucky if you do 35mpg on one of those cars. I would stick with the PD engined TDI machine; generally a lot more bulletproof. I would just say that DPF's are an issue, but a long hot fast run with decent hi-grade fuel will fix any issues.

I suspect that something may have hit the propshaft and unbalanced it. Check the mountings for excess play and also at the gearbox end and Haldex gearbox end. Would I be right to say this vibration occurs when at a certain speed?

You are on the cusp of Haldex 4 or 5. There is a filter on Haldex5 but is only a mesh mask for the pump. Best get the pump filter cleaned and oil changed over. Unless the car has done serious offroading diff oil should be fine.

Sounds like a propshaft problem. Its a less-known issue that the propshaft balancer can fail or the rubber bushings or Cushing rubbers. My husband's 2016 4x4 had this problem. Was fixed under warranty. Not a major job and can be confirmed by visual inspection by either the AA or RAC. Easy to fix but can cost a couple of hour's labour. Best get it fixed now whilst car is under your 14 days.

The Diff Oil is fairly good - I think look at it every 100k miles (160k kms) - but the Haldex needs doing every 20k (if you aren't to knacker up the pump)

Not really - the UI is smoother. It fixes a whole load of Bluetooth glitches and Android/Carplay gotchas....and generally makes the system work properly.

Kinda not really possible - the way the Harman work it, is that you upgrade the firmware - and if you need to - you can downgrade the firmware afterwards. I personally think that approach sucks, but I suspect this is down to the available space on the MIB system. There are links to the MEGA website - with the original firmware images knocking around, which you could potentially apply. I haven't tried a downgrade (nor would I want to).

I wrote an article a while back on how to do the firmware update on a Amunsden system. Ill see if I can find it.