varaderoguy

OP stated that the fault experienced had the glow-plug light on. Glow-Plugs do fail. I still maintain that it is worth checking. An electrical resistance test with a multimeter will determine high-resistance. Admittedly, the CANBUS should be logging this condition. Misfiring faults can produce a multitude of errors. @spikeybrumey was there on the P0322 fault showing or where there other faults too? P0322 - Ign./Distributor Eng.Speed Inp.Circ. No Signal Helpful advice on Ross-tech site : http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16706/P0322/000802

Yes, look on ebay or theskodashop.co.uk The original is held in with a strap that tucks into a large plastic threaded bolt at the bottom of the spare tyre well.

I would definitely be looking at Glow-Plugs. These are needed to assist with cold running engine. However, would also defer to @James@Pentagon_Seat The crank sensor fault is likely. The problem is probably an electrical one in so much the sensor is Open-Circuit when cold (failure) with it 'fixing' itself when hot.

First things first; you might want to factory reset the car. If the previous owner has set up something and you aren't aware of what it is, then this at least gets you to a good known working state. Secondly, i would agree with @john999boy that not all systems had Mirrorlink or Smartlink enabled. My 2016 Scout with an Amunsden needs a software license key to operate; however with that said - the system should tell you if you are licensed to use that feature or not. A chat with your Skoda dealer is a good call. Thirdly, firmware. For Smartlink/Carplay to work, it still needs Bluetooth enabling. Some of the Bluetooth stacks on earlier MIB systems were less than stable. Ask @pab567 to see what the latest firmware is for your MIB system.

Okay. From Horton Skoda -theskodashop.co.uk -part number is 5Q0121407M https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/products/coolant-reservoir-tank?_pos=1&_sid=471e71bc8&_ss=r I don't think they sell ones with Silica bags now. Phone and speak to the parts team there for clarification.

Yes, Ive heard of screens failing. However, you don't know what kind of chemicals that the various bodyshops are using. I would recommend using a dey microfibre cloth first...see whether there is any residue which comes off. There is a formal cleaner for the screens, but you can only get it from Superskoda. I would potentially invest in some IT screen cleaning wipes too to see if that helps. If nothing else, you are looking at roughly 300ukp, although if you can purchase some release keys for the screen, and find the part number, you can pick up secondhand screens from other cars. There is no security protection on the screens. You see the screens come up on the forum adverts as well as ebay.

Arse - Dual Mass Flywheels. If you are invested in the car, then you might want to google single flywheel conversion kits - and get the clutch replaced whilst you are there.

Yes, that will be the updates for the MY21 cars! Skoda and VW are all now fully connected cars - and they will be updates galore - so 12M is small fry. Just wait until a major MIB interface update comes your way!!!!

Yes, that's curious. The car burns more efficiently with cooler air, but it depends on the vehicle and the situation. Maybe the car is pre-warming the air to an optimum temperature, but 24C seems rather too high.

Yes, you need Skoda Connect Lite for it to work. App is available on Android or Apple. The VW dongle and Skoda Connect lite dongle are the same item.

Its quite easy really, but it depends on the coolant tank used. There are three types out there. First tank has no teabag and no option for a Silica teabag - single skinned - best option. Second one is a single-skinned tank, but with a silica teabag. This is good, because the silica teabag can be fished out (carefully) by a (small) pair of hands or carefully with some thin-nosed pliers [take care not to split the bag]. The third one is the most difficult. Its a double-skinned tank with the silica teabag in-between the two layers of plastic....no hope....forget it....get yourself a new single-skinned tank. As to which one you have, I cannot answer that; it almost seems completely random on what was available at the time. You will have to investigate yourself.

Damn Xman - you are right. I have also had my battles with my own dealer, but they do see things my way eventually. In regards to OP; this car has only done 30k miles....I personally think very unlucky for this to go wrong. It sounds as though it may have been a control logic board gone wrong. My own clutch experience was oddly enough at ~exactly~ the same mileage (admitely on a manual gearbox, but it was clutch related). It seems that this is still an occassional issue of logic boards failing. I am assuming that the dealer sold the vehicle as a used/approved? So - it had the remainder of the warranty and has a full Skoda service history? Usually, you canny buy an extended warrranty from Skoda if the old one has run out (although they maybe leaway on this) and the whole question about if you did buy an extended warranty, would they cover an existing fault (probably not). So - if the OP goes for a repair at around £700; the premis is that it may or may not break. However, you are in the realm of good-wills with Skoda. Spending out on that kind of money means that Skoda should smile on you well if something else happens; I am a believer of good will here. The repair will be logged on the electronic service record, so Skoda should smile favourably on any further warranty claims. However, think the OP should go to a different Skoda dealer to get a second opinion too.

The other option is to get a rebuilt gearbox. Try speak to https://www.autogearbox.co.uk/dsg-gearbox-repairs/ Auto Gearbox as they rebuild gearboxes for a living - see whether it is easier and cheaper to get the car shipped to them and have it fixed.

I suppose it all depends on how invested you are in the vehicle - both from an emotional and financial sake. I had to shell out half towards a new clutch on my 3 year old VRS (£495) - a couple of month back, so whilst the £700 is quite a bitter pill to swallow, I personally think it isn't the end of the world (unless you don't have that kind of money). The car (even though its on a low-loader) looks like a nice vehicle. It would be so sad to scrap it because of a component failure. What I should add is that if you do get the work done by Skoda to replace the gearbox, you will get a brand-new DSG gearbox (and you will also get new clutch plates as part of the deal) - plus a 2 year Skoda warranty on all parts and labour.

Hello from across the water from sunny and rainy Scotland! speak with @pab567 to assist with upgrade of firmware.

You can get the original part from here: http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/SKODA-MERCHANDISE/Original-Skoda-Folding-umbrella-with-the-SKODA-lettering-BLACK-automatic-OPEN-and-CLOSE-system

I've have a DSG (2019 Scout) and I've had a 2016 car (Scout 6 speed manual). Tyres will also have a lot to do with the way the car handles itself. You will get more grip with M+S tyres than standard summer tyres when it gets cold and icy. My personal opinion is that the OEM Pirelli summer tyres are great until it they get cold. The sensors and hill-descent stuff can only do so much with the grip it has.

I prevail to better knowledge - original posting removed.

Ive been told that if you subscribe to ERWIN you can update the maintenance schedule in there....Ive not found that function yet....will report back if I do.

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At the same time I posted the original posting, an interesting YouTube video came out showing the process of servicing the HALDEX system. https://youtu.be/2pUXkDXt1cw

I think it can be enabled at a push. However, you might need it enabling via an FEC (Feature code) from a Skoda Dealer.

Yes, its possible. https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/11468/

It is explained in this posting from the forum in 2013. The 'use' of coolant is probably down to over-pressuration of the cooling system during regen. The problem has been reported on the TDIforum, the Seat Forum and Golf forums, so it is a known issue. The cooling system just ejects from over-pressuration valve in the cap. I wasn't advocating that the coolant was being used within the regen process and I can understand how my previous comments might have been construed that way. The problem never totally went away, so we are left having to top-up our coolant tanks every so often.

@J.R.@Kenny R Sorry Gents. I've had 5 VW TDI 2.0 engines - they all loose small amounts of coolant (Euro4, Euro5 and Euro6).