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varaderoguy

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Everything posted by varaderoguy

  1. Binary - 1001 is Hex09 or Decimal09.
  2. There are various youtube videos out there; a quick search shows the following: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsIJMpl2Ak0 or
  3. Stick with G13 - it is backwards compatable with G12 and G12evo.
  4. Not necessarily. Most of us heavy 'modders' know that VW put in lots of nicw things into our cars but don't necessarily switch it all on. I will check at the weekend.
  5. Yes - you can receive Radio 4 LW on 198Mhz in the South of France quite easily. AM (as far as I am aware) is only available on MK3's, but I could be wrong. Work around: https://www.amazon.co.uk/LW-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Hands-Free-Supporting/dp/B07JNMWDQZ So - working logically - I willcheck to see if there is LW enabling in 5F module. If I can enabling it, I'll let you know. *** Deactivation AM band radio / navigation *** Unit 5F , in coded byte 14, bit 1 is ON
  6. What was the coding you needed to change?
  7. Can you confirm that the radiator fans are switching on or not please? I've heard interesting stories that the cable loom is messed around with and certain random functions stop working. Can you also check your fuses to see if a fuse as popped - and try to also get a VCDS scan (for faults codes).
  8. Applogies @langers2k - you are right. I thought it was a hidden partition. I've seen those 'Samsung' cards - most are fake Chinese knock-offs - best stick with the original parts.
  9. Right - Firstly - you shouldn't just copy files from the 16G to a non-VW approved SD Card (of any size). It won't work. There is a hidden memory slot defined CID inside these cards that is only addressable checked by the MIB systems - it cannot be addressed or even accessed from either Windows, Mac or even Linux. Secondly, the cards are not ~that~ expensive - a 32G card is only £34.99 - see this listing for an MIB2 (MIB2.5) card - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/32GB-Version-2020-SKODA-GEN2-MIB2-Amundsen-2-Card-Sat-Nav-SD-Navigation-Map-UK/143469631943 MIB1 systems have a different card, so will need to be sourced elsewhere. Good luck with that - yes, I work in IT - DD ~might~ see the hidden partition (won't be able to change the CID), but it is a checksum the occurs within the MIB against the hardware. Copying the hidden partition will result in a different checksum, because the internal partition CID is locked away and RO. If you copy that sector across to a RW different card, it will just bulk at the result of the checksum test incorrect CID information (I don't think it is anything more advanced than an MD5 checksum - but you've got to know what files are checked and what it references against - which is *definately* breaking VW Copyright protections (instead of just slightly bending the rules).
  10. So - just it depends on whether you have KESSY or no KESSY. On KESSY system, you will have to replace the batteries every 6 months maximum. Its a pain.... On Non-KESSY systems, depending on how many times you open or close the car, you can get away with 12-18 months. The cyphers are more complex (uses more battery/compute power) and the TX/RX power levels could be higher on the MK3. The other thing I would recommend - is making sure that you keep your KESSY keys away from each other (ie not on the same bunch of keys). This will run down the batteries quicker (because the keys check every couple of seconds if they are near the car and if there are lots of transmitting keys on the same keyring, they will interfere with each other). The KESSY system using proximety and constant radio telemetry to report they are in the car and this will also utilise additional power usage.
  11. Yes - that's fairly ancient firmware. I'll need to confirm with @pab567but I think this is an Amunsden MIB2.5 unit - with which the most recent firmware is 0478. You also need the latest maps from http://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/
  12. High-Beam Assist is a reasonably good function, but you have to understand its limitations. Firstly, its an Assist function - it helps, it doesn't always get things right. In the case of my Scout, it tends to get things badly wrong a lot of the time. Oddly enough, in my VRS (20mm lower than the Scout) - High Beam Assist is really quite good. I think it is an angle thing with the A5 camera. However, to help, I make sure that in Car->Settings->Lights - that I set the setting to "Early" - which dips the beam quicker than "Normal" or "Late".
  13. The strip has gone for a burton. Get it replaced under warranty.
  14. It can be a bit quicksotic/random. Wireless Hotspots usually have timeouts on phones (my Android 10 devices has a timeout after nothing connected of 10 mins). Do you have an Amunsden or a Columbus unit BTW? Can you also post the version of firmware you have pls (Menu->Settings->Version)
  15. Definately take it out - save yourself a world of pain later on. Warranty won't be effected.
  16. However (and possibly as unfashionable as this next comment is) - please check the oil level in your car. My TDI uses a little sip of oil - and I noticed that the count-down started happening quicker than normal. A quick check revealed that the oil level was at half on the dipstick. Topped up....countdown slowed down. Not only is the service interval based, but the oil change is condition based too.
  17. It is completely random on what tank you have. Some have them...other's don't.
  18. Agreed - try here: http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-III/Emblems/
  19. I am assuming that from your comments, your car only has halogen bulbs. First point to note will be - is the beam set correctly? If you go into the MIB system, go to CAR - > Settings -> Lights - just check out high (or not) the beam is. The mains and the dips are both H7's - easy to upgrade.
  20. The way we used to drive - really doesn't reflect how we should be driving these days. Most modern cars are designed to be driven quite hard - which if you done anything like an Advanced driving course - will be counter-intuitive to anything you've done before. Italian Tune-up required - either a petrol particulates filters or a diesel variant, they need a long-fast run to clear them out.
  21. Its the big plastic nut at the bottom of the polystyrene box. Remove the spare wheel or the tyre inflation kit and you wilp see it there at the bottom. Unscrew it counter-clockwise. Box will come oout.
  22. Smartlink is the overall system for displaying either Android Auto or Apple Carplay depending on your phone. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/skoda/108069/what-is-skoda-smartlink
  23. What are you trying to torque down? For about 7EUR I would go and gain access to erWin (google Skoda erWin). Login, pay, type in your VIN, find and download the information you need (there are workshop manuals there).
  24. Ooohhh....not good for the car. I would not rely on all of the matricies being correct on short journeys. Take car for good long blast and see if the info makes more sense after that.
  25. Yes, micro and mini blade fuses are required. What fuse did you blow?

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