varaderoguy

I would recommend that you go for 19" wheels too on the VRS as this makes a HUGE difference to the ride characteristics (having had a VRS with 18" wheels - terrible) and a 19" VRS - where the ride is lovely and far less crashy.

@ExSEAT Thanks for your suggestion. Slightly harder than you describe though. In the image below, I have highlighted the three plastic clips that you have to undo. That is the theory because I could *not* separate out the lense from the surrounding light reflector guide. It would not budge. Two sets of xmas mini cracker screw drivers.....you can see it trying, but you cannot put too much pressure onto the surround. The light guide is also held on with three one-way plastic clips - that cannot be taken off without breaking them from the surrounding. I have admitted defeat and gone to PlanB. Ive ordered some e2 led interior bulbs instead and will be sending a snotty email to Superskoda with a 'its impossible to separate the two halves without breaking the surround' type email and see what they come back with. Chalk it up as experience.

Okay. The icons from Skoda are rubbish. Make a note of this link - you can find all of the radio station indents here at https://www.radiodns.uk/logos You need the 128x128 pixel variants. The problem is that VW group didn't have permission to use numerous radio station idents after 2015/2016 (the radio owning groups wanted a lot of money), so VW Group can only ship old idents to their cars. Download the idents from the link above; all radio stations are covered - BBC and Independent groups. They are free for personal use.

Yes, you need an MY16 or above to utilise Android Auto or Apple Carplay. This can be enabled on a Bolaro/Amunsden or Columbus unit of your era. You also need an 'App' button on your system to make this work. It will cost you about 120ukp for a Software License code from your dealer. Failing that, I remember seeing that Kenwood did a formal headunit and screen upgrade (around 500ukp) for early Mk3's which gave you Garmin GPS services.

So - I think I understand the OP problem. IMHO the GPS signal in an Octavia is poor around the area of the centre consule where the cup holder is. You need direct line of sight of the sky for good GPS reception. The only way you might be able to fix this is by retrofitting a GPS/Mobile signal booster which was an option on my old 2016 Scout - which requires the shark-fin aerial to be installed.

Nope - bigger jets and a firmware change on the Euro5; but we are hijacking this thread unnecessarily.

@J.R. - apologies, but I didn't say any of the above. All I mentioned was - was the car a Euro5 or 6 engined beast (modifications caused issues) - and fault codes are stored in the *ECU*. The CANBUS network is essentially a two-wire ethernet - see the following: http://www.mindsensors.com/content/86-can-and-its-topology . As well as lighting and providing power, data traversing down those said same wires.

The most obvious issue sounds like its an intermittent (and failing) Fuel pump. The key thing is getting your car to a person with a VCDS system. They can 'read' your car and its errors. Intermittent errors don't always show on the dashboard. The reason why I asked whether your car was a Euro 5 or Euro 6 engine - was that VW Group recalled all Euro5 engines, changed the jets and put new firmware onto the cars (for Dieselgate). This modification caused performance issues. The other issue around the fuel diesel fuel filter was whether it changed correctly. Not topping up the filter bowl and not re-priming the pump may also cause fuel starvation. However, my guess is going to be a failing pump - which will show up on the CANBUS network. Failing a diagnostic visit to your local Skoda dealer or your local VW specialist (try https://www.vassmotorworks.ie/about-vass-motorworks-garage-car-servicing-repair/) or a visit to Galway or Dublin to meet up with a registered VCDS owner - https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?msa=0&mid=1Td73_uUUqscV3nRm5br_o89PmBU&ll=52.972709670174076%2C-7.903861277928392&z=8 to read the car diagnostics. You will probably get an error code - which we can then all tell you what the problem is reporting.

A couple of pointers: 1) Are there any errors showing on the car dash? 2) Does this happen from cold or also when hot? 3) When was the last time the diesel filter was changed over? 4) Service History - when was the last service and what was done at that service? 5) Is your engine a EURO5 or EURO6 engine? 6) What fuel do you run it off (supermarket or otherwise)? 7) What kind of mileage do you do - long runs (over 10 miles) or short journeys (under 10 miles).

The man of the moment is @pab567 who will hopefully be able to assist.

Its kinda where my thinking is going next - to find a CANBUS approved LED w5w e2 bulb instead. Found a whole load on ebay and amazon, but b4 I pressed go on that option, wanted to find out if anybody had actually successfully fitted the Kopacek variants.

Folks, Need some direction - from somebody who has fitted the Kopacek LED interior lights. I recently purchased a set of these: http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-III/Octavia-III-front-MEGA-POWER-led-dome-lights-KI-R-V2-Round Has anybody here fitted a set - and what did they need to do to install them? Usual lack of instructions from Superskoda. I managed to get into the lights easily enough - and brought down the surround. However, there are two light guides for the incandescent bulbs and it means that you canny just 'install' the lights. There is nowhere to put the LED flat panel - and to make it even more confusing, the sticky pads on the back of the LED lamp unit does not seem to correspond to any space in the lighting panel. I could see one potential option, but this is to remove the lighting guides; then it makes more sense. However, removing the lighting guides is a destructive process. There are three plastic clips which require glasses removal screwdrivers, but they don't seem to budge and I don't want to put force onto removing them. Time to ask for assistance. They are being fitted into my 2018 Octavia VRS FL230. Thanks Max

This sounds like your DPF is well and truly blocked - Bank 1 is not responding to the standard process of regeneration. I am assuming you have a Euro4 engine (2010) here. What is your driving style like? You do need a LONG HARD drive (100 odd miles plus) to really clear out a blocked DPF. If the only way you can achieve this is via service mode, so be it. Other things to continue.....use decent fuel (super diesel) or a tank cleaner such as Wynns DPF cleaner. Drive constantly hard - lots of high revs (3000rpm and above), low gearing....the Italian tune-up. Failing that, there are companies that are out there to clean DPF'; its never perfect. The other thought is....why did this happen? Is the car running rich for a reason?

So - my other half has a SE Octavia MK3 FL 1.0TSI. Lovely car.....he only allows me to 'lightly' mod his vehicle with VCDS (spoil-sport). However, I was wondering if anybody had utilised and experienced driving their cars with a winter 'muff' installed - http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-III/Octavia-III-Facelift-2017-winter-grille-cover-in-great-OEM-design-KI-R My husbands commute is about 6 miles, so the engine barely gets up to temperature. Does this help? Does any of our northerly friends use this or not?

Err @FrankLK - your photo leads to a 1000 questions..... Its either your 'other' person and you enjoy your gender fluidity and dressing up or you have an amazing other half - or worst news of all.....you go and pick up certain ladies of the night - just to pose with your downlighters.....disgraceful!

Okay - the difference between VRS and Normal mode is usually a power mapping function within the ECU; if you have the Soundikator, then it also makes it louder (I firmly switch it OFF in VCDS). I am firmly convinced (but I know I am wrong) - that the DSG 7 DQ381 has a complete mind of its own - doesn't talk to the engine, because as OP stated, trying to get the car to a state where everything is working correctly with each other is a bit trial/error.

More clarification on HBA. I agree that if there is a sensitivity setting, that it does need to be applied to the car....I saw the settings on another thread, but has been talked about here, some models don't allow for modifications to be made to the A5 camera. Basically, if the oncoming car has old yellowing halogens, HBA is useless....the trigger point set for dipping is not met until they are right on you (useless). If you have LED or Xenons, then HBA works just fine (under Early setting for dipping). The same applied to tail lights - Ford Transit vans with weak tailights are useless because HBA doesn't pick up the light levels, but if the car in front has decent tail lights, then HBA works just fine. As I have a car with heightened suspension (Scout) and one with a lowered suspension (VRS), the lower the camera to the road, the better it seems to work. I assume this is a lining up issue with the cameras. I would be interested to try HBA on a SE-L or L&K variant to test whether it works any better or worse.

Every day is a school day here: Taken from a VW forum - As far as I can tell, the only relevant difference between the older G12 Plus Plus and the newer G13 is that G13 is more environmentally friendly because it contains ethanediol (ethylene glycol), 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, glycerol, and some silicates. Performance should be identical. As far as I know, all G12/13 type coolants are Si-OAT coolants. All these coolants come as a concentrate that must be diluted with water. Filtered tap water (free of particles) is fine, unless very hard. If the latter, use distilled water. Distilled water is actually not ideal, because it is more acidic than tap water. However, once distilled water gets heated, it loses its acidity. Demineralized water would be good because it cuts down on scale buildup. Dilution: 40 parts coolant concentrate to 60 parts water is good for frost protection to ca -25°C (-13°F). 50:50 concentrate to water is standard and offers frost protection to ca -35°C (-31°F). Do not use higher than necessary coolant concentration, because it will impede cooling.

The only person who definitely can assist - will be @SashaGracewho is based in North Wales. I don't know if that is an option at this time (with lockdown??)

Okay - well if price of a scan (£100 quid just for a quick diagnostics is too expensive) - then you need to find somebody with a VCDS or ODBEleven system near you. VCDS owners are shown elsewhere on the forum. The door module should at least be reporting a fault if it has failed, so that can be reported back to your Skoda dealer - and straight to a warranty repair.

My 2016 Scout was exactly the same. The ride was terrible. I don't think changing the tyres will change much. I say that because on my 2019 Scout, the ride quality on the same tyres (17") is far far better. I think if you want to improve the ride, you should improve the suspension springs.

5 years or 60,000 miles if I remember right.

Definitely the easiest job, but needs to be done with care. Get yourself some rubber surgical gloves b4 starting and plenty of paper towelling to mop up the G13. You will also need a 1l bottle of G13. The following process below is what I did on my VRS to fix the Silica problem (it had a double skinned tank). Check out this video showing the process on a VW Golf (identical under the bonnet): 1) Get a cheap fluid pump....I got one from my local general store for £8. On a cold engine, suck out all of the coolant from the header tank into a secure container (to be disposed of later) 2) Unclip the top hose and bottom hose. Try to catch as much coolant as possible. Leave as much coolant in the pipework as possible. 3) Remove the electrical connector (pull tab out and pull out connector). 4) Unhook the bottom clip where the tank sits. 5) Refit in new tank without the Silica bag 6) Put on the bottom hose (feed) 7) Put on the top hose (return) 8) Put on the electrical connector 9) Fill up the new tank with G13 mix or G12evo to maximum level. 10) Start up car - leave top off for the moment (this will become apparent in a sec) 11) As car starts to warm up, you will find there maybe an airlock at the top of the 'feed' (larger) hose going to the engine (noted if the coolant in the tank doesn't get warm). Gently Squeeze the pipe and tease out the air - there will probably be a large 'bloop' and the level will drop considerably. 12) Put the tank cap back on and let the car get up to temperature. 13) Wait until cooling fans come on and then off....then switch off the engine & let the car cool down. DO NOT TOUCH THE HEADER TANK - HOT COOLANT ALERT!!! 14) Next day, Before you head off, check the level in the header tank again - release the pressure in the tank by opening the cap up. Make sure the coolant level is correct. Be happy you have many 1000's of trouble free motoring in front of you.....enjoy.

Generally, G13 is backwards compatible with G12 and G12evo. If you have a 2019 FL Octy, you will definitely have a G13 system. Im afraid you may still have to have a look around to see if the silica bag is there. It was in my 2019 Scout.

EGR valves tend to be sooty and have carbon in them. It looks like there has been some kind of 'washing' effect. I don't like the look of the green tinge inside that valve either. Do you have green or red coolant in your car? If Green, then it is definitely getting into that valve. This puts me in mind that you have a Coolant leak in the engine block and that coolant is potentially getting into the combustion process and into the EGR valve itself.