skomaz

1991 Mitsubishi Colt 1.5 GLX. I bought it from new and added a few extras like dark blue metallic paint, a sunroof, multi spoke alloy wheels and a better radio and then did well over 113k miles over 10 years in it. In all that time the only non-service or non-consumable issue with it was a cracked exhaust manifold that was fixed using a second hand part off a Proton that cost £12. I also enjoyed the fact that it was comfy, had decent sports style seats and was different and a bit quirky compared to the run of the mill ford's and the like I could have had. OK it wasn't the Corolla GTI or Civic CRX I wanted but couldn't find or afford but it was still a great car.

Hi Ryan... I forgot about this but if you've still not found anyone check the postage cost to see if its worthwhile as I'd probably have a go for you.

As above... Glad you got it sorted

I 'think' that's the external temperature sensor and should be clipped into the back of the grille / bumper somewhere

Just noticed this and wondering about reverse lights in tha strip

Just noticed this and wondering now if I can mount some additional reverse lights in that strip... 😉

Personally this reads like you are making a mountain out of a molehill. Many dealers would have ignored the minor roof damage and just delivered the car but they are taking it upon themselves to fix it and then deli er it to you at their cost. Working from home and 2 days interest may be 'inconvenient' but finding another car, test driving and arranging everything again will be a LOT more hassle and if you like the car then two days isn't long to wait.

I don't have an Octavia any more (now have a Kodiaq) but I'm almost 100% certain they use three existing screws... Two on the sides and one underneath. You just undo the existing screws, offer up the flap and align the holes on it and the car an refit the screws. If you hold one up against the car in position it should be obvious.

Don't the mudflaps use the existing fixings that hold the wheel arch liner and undertray on?

Well I for one am glad my conscience and didn't jump on that gravy train to make a claim for 'emotional pain' etc. that I clearly didn't suffer...

I'd offer having done a few previously (last one was a TEAC A-150 (IIRC) but I'm a bit too far away...

https://elektrotanya.com/technics_rs-tr474_sm.pdf/download.html Go on... You know you want to do it yourself!!

Oops... Apologies... Entirely my fault!

Something like that usually points to water ingress or condensation in the light unit. Any sign of that? If so it may be a case of drying it out and then reconnecting.

No - not at all - I just remember them from years ago as a design and engineering outfit that did a lot of subcontract work for a lot of manufacturers, produced some interesting concept cars and were heavily involved with the Mk1 MX5 (with Tom Matano and Bob Hall??). I have been involved in civil engineering work at Visteon and Bentley though... but a number of years ago. I'd have loved to be in the automotive design trade and did get interviewed by Rolls Royce back in the late 80's but they declined me... so I finished up with Dowty in Cheltenham for 4 years before deciding that civil engineering probably suited me better than mechanical - so now I do highway engineering and transport planning with tinkering with cars on the side.

IAD... Not heard that name for a long time!!

Are these guys any use... https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/pumps/generation-2-pump-haldex-vw-audi-seat-skoda-0av598549a/ https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/repair-and-service-kits/gen-2-haldex-pump-replacement-kit-for-vw-audi-seat-skoda-0av598548a/ Not sure what shipping will cost...

The windows aren't polarised .. they are toughened which involves heat treatment which is what leaves the 'coloured dots' etc you see through polarised sunglasses when looking at them

I used Mannol in both our of cars... So no issues with that.

As above or recheck the wiring and plugs as it sounds like one may be loose on the back of the radio or any adapter harness you've fitted

The dealer will have removed during the PDI as there is a recall on them due to the possibility that the cover can come loose, drop onto the turbo and catch fire. In theory they are revising the part to overcome this so you 'should' get a revised part fitted at some stage but probably best to check with the supplying dealer (Rainworth / Bickertons?)

Mine arrived too. They look OK (gloss black) and seem pretty much identical to the OE ones without the VW part number. Initial fitting was a bit of a fiddle as they were clearly tighter than the OE ones but I've just been for a drive and then taken them off and put them on again and they seem fine now - no harder or easier than the OE ones to remove or fit. The removal tool is rubbish though and broke after about the third use, but the OE one is fine and works with them no problem. Link below (they have a variety of colours but some don't get very good reviews - so purchase at your own risk). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324729657498 - "Audi Wheel Nut Covers Gloss Black For A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A8 Q5 Q7 TT 20x17mm" from Partsulike

I see the 'enemy' were present too... In the form of a Trojan (AKA Heinkel) bubble car.

Just a quick update - I did nothing but three weeks later and it seems to have sorted itself - the globe is now white as expected...

Just got some similar ones from ebay for our Kodiaq that include covers for the locking wheel nuts - about half the price.