skomaz

Just worked mine out and based on cost per litre of last fill and average mpg i'm just under 11.9 ppm...

oh its definitly a crap repair whatever the inital cause... i can see that!!

So I drove it in the dark tonight and the nightbreakers are an improvement but still not a patch on the Swift's led lights... So may well be looking to try the coding change to see if the voltage at the bulb can be increased... Edit: Just had another drive on some less well lit roads and its actually a better result than i first thought, with a much whiter beam and defintely brighter than OE. Theres still some room for improvement if i can tweak the voltage and they may need lifted a bit to extend the range nit a definite improvement and now pretty much livable with until someone manages to legalise an LED retrofit...

Possibly but some of those connectors look chewed. Either way it's time to take it back and demand a refund

Looks like it's had an attack of the rodents! Take it back and get a refund

No. Sone aresuggesting that two fog lights are better than one and i'm griping about a single rverse light on the wrong side of the car. I dont mean to upset you but read the thread ??

Both really. Most of the posts I've tracked down seem to refer to leds rather than halogens... I guess I need to find someone with vcds locally or stump up for obd11 and work out how to do it myself so I can try it...

No it does seem quite a lot to lose. But 12.8v as standard isn't too bad. Just wondering if changing coding will make any difference for halogens. I'll see how the nightbreakers are over the next few nights first

11.8v engine off 14.5v engine on

Right I finally got round to this today as I decided to chuck some Osram Nightbreaker +150's in the dipped and main beam headlights. Engine off, OE Osram H7 bulb in and lit I got 11.4v across the bulb terminals with my digital mulitmeter Same as above but with engine on I got 12.78 across the bulb terminals with a very slight fluctuation over time (maybe 0.03v) So not massively conclusive but does seem to indicate that the voltage isn't throttled back to the same extent as I expected. Either way the Nightbreakers are in and do seem brighter (hard to tell in daylight) and are definitely a higher kelvin, so will hopefully be an improvement. I'm slightly annoyed that I bought the +150 just before the +200s came into stock but hey ho. For info the main beams were an easy fit but the dipped less so as there isn't much room between the back of the headlight unit and the bracket for the gas strut that holds the bonnet up on both sides. That makes it fiddly to get the bulbs and their clips into the headlight unit if you have man-sized hands and also makes twisting the bayonet fitting of them into the headlight unit itself a bit awkward. The clips were also quite tight and I ended up having to clean the bulbs with alcohol after getting them into the holders as I think I may just have touched the bulb glass lightly and didn't want to take any chances with them blowing after a short time. Interestingly I also tried to fit some LED W5W bulbs that I got for the Octavia and, whilst they worked fine with no errors they were physically just too long to be able to get them into place. They go in to the headlight unit through the same opening as the main beam bulb and it's all a bit tight. So if anyone is looking to change these get bulbs that are a max of 12mm diameter and protrude less than 25mm from the holder.

Yep seen the aerofins note but it's not those... However, it's been pretty dry since I had a tweak of the top of the hatch seal so I've checked it again and done a more thorough job this time. I've also checked the rear wiper grommet and that looks fine with no signs of water ingress. However, I took the number plate light off and noticed that he blind rivnuts for the plate mounting screws, above where the water pools, was quite rusty on the outside and internally. I've therefore sealed around the outside of both and put a smear of sealant on the threads before reattaching the number plate. So we'll see how we go. In other news I also checked the voltage at, and fitted some Osram Nightbreakers in, the headlights (dipped and main beam) and drilled a small hole in the centre console cubby insert in the bottom of the recess where the 12v power socket cover is supposed to fit, so my 12v to USB adapter can go in there too without falling out all the time. All in all a useful hour spent...

My MX5 is 26 years old and still going strong. No third brake light but it does have a separate fog light

Teres a black Enyaq i see regularly near us that just looks naff but that copper really seems to lift it. £57k though...!!!

Thatll be it. USB-C can deliver up to 20v but only if designed and specified with that level of power delivery in mind but i very much doubt the skoda ones are.

A standard usb-c is 5v and 3A i beleive so thats what id expect.

I have no issues with a single fog light... it's the single offside reversing light that bugs me and is a stupid idea!

@TrevorB33 your build threads ae always s good read so yes... Interested!

Yes - the new S-class isn't much of a looker either but I do find the Mercedes range more 'elegant' than BMW's current 'clash of angles / surfacing / grills' approach. Either way you are right - the Chinese influence on aesthetics isn't what we have been used to and tends to be brash and jarring...

Hmmm... the back of the 2 series just looks blobby and a bit under-wheeled... But the new stuff like the iX, the 7, 8, X7 and 2 Active Tourer are just horrendous in my opinion.

Indeed - that is probably the 'best' looking BMW at the moment (bearing in mind it's still not what I'd call elegant but is at least not as horrendously ugly as the rest of the range). I guess the designers laid off the wacky baccy when they did the 2 series...

Correct. The point im making is that HIDs dont work well in reflector lights made for a halogen bulb light source but generally work well in projector lights made for halogen bulbs. And while the former will fail an MOT the latter generally dont (even if technically they should as the halogen light source has been replaced by a HID burner).

Could the vacuum hose be trapped, kinked or not routed correctly? I only ask as i had similar once after replacing a turbo to intercooler hose on our octavia that involved the removal of the intake a hose and that caused exactly the same issue of wooden brakes locking on...

Any good... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-ELECTRIC-WINDOW-REGULATOR-REPAIR-CLIPS-FITS-FRONT-LEFTand-RIGHT/112435568274?fits=Car Make:Skoda|Model:Fabia&hash=item1a2dae9e92:g:ZUUAAOSwDN1UUqsp&pageci=51800b28-cb63-443f-b3f6-4060d4aa07d7&redirect=mobile Or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-ELECTRIC-WINDOW-REGULATOR-REPAIR-CLIPS-FITS-FRONT-LEFTand-RIGHT/112435568274?fits=Car Make:Skoda|Model:Fabia&hash=item1a2dae9e92:g:ZUUAAOSwDN1UUqsp&pageci=51800b28-cb63-443f-b3f6-4060d4aa07d7&redirect=mobile From memlry they are all the same for the mk1 regardless of year

But on projector lights it usually doesn't fail... As they are completely different to reflector lights that are being referred to as halogen.

Yes ive seen those bulbs and that table. The Tiguan is listed i think so im hoping the kodiaq will be added soon...