skomaz

in our Kodiaq the armrest slides forward and can be height adjusted via tilt. That's on a 2018 model but I'd doubt it will have changed (although best to check with the new version if that's what you are considering).

E10 is going to be an issue for my 1995 MX5 by all accounts - so I'll have to switch to the higher octane stuff that will remain at E5. Mpg doesn't worry me but the potential effect on other components /hoses etc. does.

For info I was asking to see whether it would be a worthwhile change. I have an SE with halogen lights and, coming from an Octy II with HID and a Swift with LED lights, was debating changing the Kodiaq bulbs to higher output Halogen ones as and when I get the chance as winter approaches but thought I'd ask about the coding change to see if that was worthwhile as well given it's the same platform. At present, whilst I have a couple of multimeters I don't have VCDS or OBDeleven (and don't have much clue about coding...) so can't trial this and haven't seen any evidence or otherwise that it works on a Kodiaq as most owners have higher spec LED equipped vehicles than my lowly SE... Would be good to know either way as I'm certainly not keen on putting LED's in the standard reflectors and, from what I can make out retrofitting OE LED light units will be expensive and awkward.

Just wondering if anyone knows whether the coding to increase the headlight / foglight voltage as per the thread below works , or is even necessary on the Kodiaq?? ie does that kodiaq run a relatively low voltage for the lights to prologue bulb life like other VAG cars?

I 'think' it primes when you turn on the ignition? So it should be sufficient enough to change the oil, switch the ignition (and maybe run the engine for a couple of minutes) then re-check the haldex oil level. Haldex Filter Clean and oil change Gen 5 - Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 onward) - BRISKODA

Same here - from 1986 when I was 18 I worked as a sponsored student at Dowty Group, moving between various machine shops / draughting teams and production control teams and then at 22 started as a highway engineer again spending a lot of time on draughting machines until CAD took hold in the mid 90's. Somewhere I've still got some of the A0 drawings of the mining roof support I did in 1987 for the No 7 longwall face at the Bevercotes Colliery in Nottinghamshire - the GA for that was on my wall for quite a while at one stage! I still do a fair bit of drawing and sketching to get info across (but mostly A3 sketching now) and have even worked through an 'Understanding Architecture Through Drawing' book to help improve my abilities.

Hi @J.R.... The image linked below should help. They are widely spaced at the edges of the bore and slightly angled but definitely two per cylinder...

Pretty certain I've seen the other one in existence that Skoda UK have on the A43 near Brackley. If it wasn't that it was something very very similar in Orange with SKODA across the hump at the back

I used Gtechniq C4 on our old Honda Civic and it worked brilliantly. Expensive but a one off fix

Cheers @J.R. not sure why I typed canbus... I knew it was the BCM but then had a slight waver as to whether it was some other module... But you knew what I meant or was getting at

That sounds like the Canbus is cutting power to the bulbs following it detecting a 'fault' - as indicated by the yellow warning on the dash. I'd check the bulbs and wattage are correct and also the connectors as a starting point. Also have you made any changes to the dipped beams? I only ask as I had a 50w HID kit fitted in the dipped beam at one time and it would throw a fault code if the main beams were used, even though all lights continued to function. As soon as the 50w kit was swapped out for a 35w kit the issue went away.

Been looking at these today for a Client wanting some swept path work carrying out on the assumption he has these as his fleet vehicles... blimey they are expensive Standard Sprinter Progressive's start at £31k so the eSprinter is double!

Those with green tag pates round us seem to be the one trying to keep up with next door... you know the sort all designer labels and 'must-have's. I find it rather ironic / interesting that they'll proclaim their green credentials and yet still overpay a fortune for stuff they don't need and only use once or twice that has been hypocritically shipped half way round the world... But each to their own, I'm sure there are some of them that are truly green ... Oh and the article lol-lol quoted and linked to was, I believe, just related to vehicles provided by Zenith and not for all UK leased vehciles...

We have one of those in our Kodiaq... Very worthwhile.

The limitation will be to do with the location of the battery for the hybrid system - it's under the passenger seat so the mats for that side will need to be different to suit.

Our Octavia 4x4 that we've just traded in was a 2007 model with that climatronic system and it was still on its original compressor and working fine after a single top up a number of years ago. I'd suggest the OP press the 'auto' button and actually set a low temperature to double check first as that picture is showing 'off at the moment... 'Econ' doesn't use the ac compressor to cool the air coming in... It merely uses the outside air at whatever temperature to try and meet the internal target temperature. If its hot outside you get hot air inside. The other thing I'd try is resetting the control flaps... So press and hold the econ button and then press the bottom left airflow direction button at the same time (or it might be the bottom right I can never remember). The system will then reset all the flaps.

In theory you shouldn't need the AA app in Android 11 as it's built in to the OS. But if it's Android Go it won't work full stop. We discovered the latter recently and ended up getting a new phone for my wife as a result Otherwise try checking the data transfer settings to see if they are allowing data transfer and aren't set to charge only

Lots of members move in and out of Skoda's but remember Briskoda is about more than just Skoda's...

No... It will need to be removed and gutted of its internals and then mapped out.

It will fail if it is not present or has been noticeably tampered with but it is a visual check only at present so if a dpf cannister is present and is not visibly cut and welded, for example, it should pass. There are examples on here of this being the case very recently with older vrs and 4x4s or Scouts

An 08 vrs should be EU4 so if its done properly it should pass an MOT OK...

Yes unless it has a dpf delete

As someone who deals with accident data on a regular basis I'd love to see the evidence for what safety improvements speed limiters will achieve. My gut feeling is that it will be based on a 'best case' for accident savings and severity split and some dubious maths... A bit like the air pollution causes x deaths per year one that was shown to be mathematically flawed. Might mean I'll be keeping our current cars even longer now though

Our old Octavia did that a few times... It was a sticking climatronic flap but a flap reset sorted it. Not sure how you do that on a superb though...

We had a 1.9TDi in a Fabia Estate and they are generally pretty bullet-proof. We moved it on at 130k miles but it went on to do nearly 200k with other owners which gives you an idea. The cambelt change interval was amended and I 'think' it was changed to 60k and 4 years but I'm sure others will confirm. Either way ours went to 80k without issue. Having said that the only caveat might be age - at 2008 without a change that belt will be 13 years old so I'd definitely factor in a change, with the water pump as well, ASAP just to be on the safe side.