logiclee

It really depends. I like the engine warmed up so knock stop/start off if I'm on shorter journeys. If so I'll use hand brake and drop into N. When fully warmed up and using stop start I'll mainly use D and footbrake but if I know I'm going to be stationary for a while I'll go to P and handbrake. So the answer is a complete mixture depending on circumstances. My commute is mainly motorway and A roads with a few traffic lights. So it doesn't leave D from leaving home to stopping at work. I also do not use stop start when towing. (It's disabled anyway on most cars if coded correctly)

Indeed the selector is nearly all microswitches with inputs into the ECU. Some will say you have increased wear on the selector, possibly the parking pawl and maybe even the mechatronics compared to just leaving it in D and using the foot brake. Modern systems are designed around stop/start and systems like auto hold. For normal driving it's expected the car will sit in D while stationary and in the Yeti's case the owner will sit with the foot on the brake and for cars with Auto Hold the cars systems will artificially have the foot on the brake pedal. That's were we are and why many newer cars have brake lights stuck on when at junctions or traffic lights. Upsets some but that's the way the technology has gone.

It's not down to the Yeti's age that it doesn't have Auto Hold and EPB. The platform and systems the Yeti uses have had Auto Hold and EPB fitted on certain models since 2005. It was more Skoda marketing thinking what do we need to offer at this price point. The technology was readily available in the VAG group. It's the same as the Mk3 MQB Octavia getting a manual handbrake and no auto hold while other MQB cars like the Golf getting Autohold and EPB. With more current cars a certain level of equipment is required which is why the Karoq, Kodiaq and even the latest Octavia get EPB.

Every 3 years for Haldex service. Gen 4 should also have the filter changed. Gen 5 should have the pump gauze cleaned.

The majority of times I've had a puncture I've found it flat when coming to use the vehicle either at home, work, carpark etc. It's this situation where spare is worth while.

Didn't give full explanation, just remove, repair, reseal. Bill would have been around £1400 they said.

OSF footwell

Be aware there's usually two sizes of mats/covers for the Yeti. With and without raised floor.

Mine was removed, repaired and resealed at the dealers under warranty. 2017 L&K.

Our first two Yeti's didn't have a spare and the hooks were great. Current one has a spare and the hooks are virtually pointless.

Only downside is in N the engine will restart if you lift your foot off the brake. In P the engine remains off. DQ381

They do. But... Genuine Skoda towbars are Westfalia. And... Most dealers sub it out to an independent. So you may as well just get a trusted independent to do it. As you have approved used warranty under no circumstances get a bypass relay install.

Rainworth Skoda did mine for £130, Not sure about the iphone I ditched apple many years ago. Certainly on Android Auto I can play music on my phone (1.5TB's worth), any of the streaming services (I use Amazon Prime HD) or even stream music from my NAS at home. And of course radio stations from the likes of TuneIn. All via voice control while navigating with Google Maps.

All Yeti's from around 2015 with MIB-2 head units had Smart-Link installed but it was always an option to have it activated. From the Factory it was on offer for £50 for a while but most dealers charge £130 to purchase the code from Skoda and program in the activation key.

To be fair to VAG the DQ200 has been problematic but there are plenty of others that have been great. (Some teething issues aside)

There are good VAG DSG options. Just avoid the DQ200

Indeed, I've had 5 DQ200's , 4 of these have had issues and all with less than 30k miles driven responsibly, 3 required new clutch packs and 1 a mechatronic. I will not buy another DQ200. I've had 3 DQ250's and a DL501, all faultless.

It's acceptable to replace with a like for like without coding as long as the new battery is at maximum charge level when it's fitted.

For modern AGM batteries on cars with intelligent chargers and monitoring the only chargers I trust with the battery connected are CTEK

I had some success with this polish in the past but it's hard work. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001RAQGXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Failing that some window repairers offer scratch repair services.

Did Skoda provide the electronic service history print out? Haldex Service should be listed separately.

If you have just purchased it from a Skoda dealer and it is under Skoda Approved Used Warranty then pay £100 at a Skoda dealer.

Well done something similar. After our first two Yet's I had a spell in Octavia, BMW and Jaguar. As I'm a key worker (Power Generation) I've worked more this year than and summer before. On top of that we are banned from car sharing so my mileage doubled to 20k miles a year. The Jaguar had been fairly unreliable and the cost of 19" tyres, expensive servicing and winter approaching got me thinking about the only SUV I've enjoyed and yes another Yeti. So I purchased a 2017 2.0TDi 4x4 L&K DSG with just 18k miles and 2 year Skoda warranty. I fully thought I'd be doing 20k miles a year. And just after collection work wanted me visit other sites and gave me a van. So the Yeti is parked up all week.

Some autoboxes had a similar issue. Jeep used the same gearbox on the big 5.7V8 Petrols and the 2.8 diesels. The petrol pushed out more torque and considerably more power but the gearbox was failing on the diesel. This was found to be the pulse loading from the 4 pot diesel that would shred the lockup clutch and destroy the torque converter splines. V8 with more power and torque no problems. On subsequent boxes they fitted a "Torsional Damper" basically a DMF that the lockup clutch mated to to protect the lockup clutch, torque converter and splines. On a manual it's whatever is the weakest, clutch or gears? If you fit a SMF in place of the DMF and fit an upgraded clutch then the gears will see that pulse load. The 5 speed box is weak to begin with, I wouldn't fancy it's chances with a remapped engine, SMF and upgraded clutch.

5 speed box is only rated for 250NM of torque, the 6 speed is 350NM. 4WD versions also get uprated clutch on the 6 speed I believe.