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Felicia Combi 1.3 - what oil?


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2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Mann is mediocre

 

Well, at least it has functional anti-drain valve. Some oil filters have either a bad quality or no valve at all and then it takes ages for oil pressure to build up.

 

Edited by Papez
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Just now, Papez said:

Well, at least it has functional check valve which keeps oil from draining back to sump. Some oil filters have either bad quality or no valve at all and then it takes ages for oil pressure to build up.

I've always used mahle knecht or hengst 

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3 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

You don't like it 

 

Mahle

knecht or hengst 

 

I post what i hear from the engine, the behaviour, the rev up capability, the fuel consumption, there are facts that i can ignore.

I can't close my eyes and pretend that i can't hear or i don't understand.

 

Mahle OC 981?

Can not find Knecht here, as for Hengst i will make a call to:

https://filters.gr/hengst-filters/

 

10 hours ago, nta16 said:

Or is it more that you don't like the 15w-50 (Total Quartz mineral 15w-50), which is fine

 

For first time after 15 years the engine at Clod Start 2 times had a sound of a 70's-80's engine with the choke lever closed, brrr brrr like it's going to turn-off.

 

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@Thefeliciahackerhave you cut open the relevant Mann, Mahle Knecht or Hengst to see what the differences are?

 

ETA: I'm not testing you, just asking.

 

Almost all the videos I've seen for this sort of thing are about filters in the US of A so probably some are sourced from different countries to the ones we might get in Europe, I can remember if they even see those brands but I might be wrong.  IIRC some different grands are made on the same machines, hopefully using different specifics but I don't know.

 

Edited by nta16
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1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

For first time after 15 years the engine at Clod Start 2 times had a sound of a 70's-80's engine with the choke lever closed, brrr brrr like it's going to turn-off.

Isn't your engine basically from then or before, what differences, extra or improvements did VW make to the actual engine by the time yours was made, again not testing you just asking.

 

Off on a tangent - you would not like VW's 1.2 TSI engine then as the computers are just about fully in charge and I used to hear all sorts of different noises from the engine bay until I stopped listening.  See below for just one example, I am not sure any of the figures given are accurate but I have never checked I just wait for it to pass or just drive off.

 

085546.png.eb9bc96a52684720040debbf43ea8dd5.png.a34b37a9dc7de3fe03a9483719275db7.thumb.png.fb49cea355d979a27771b3f4a91ecfb2.png     

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52 minutes ago, nta16 said:

cut open the relevant Mann, Mahle Knecht or Hengst to see what the differences are?

 

I remembered that many years ego there was a test here in a magazine showing the differences between oil filters (cut of-inspection inside etc).

 

As for the Catalytic, Felicia hasn't so many sensors as other newest models, keep in mind that the ECU couldn't find the wrong Lambda sensor that i had (seller's mistake) and caused me in fuel.

I don't think that the Felicia electronics are so sophisticated and keep in mind that this occurred only with the 15W-50, never had this with other viscosities as 5W or 10W.

 

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

986

 

MAHLE (KNECHT/MAHLE): OC 986

I will keep that code in mind, i haven't seen that code in Greek shop.

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1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I don't think that the Felicia electronics are so sophisticated

No and think yourself lucky in some ways that yours aren't the later VW computer over-complex, intertwined, over-intrusive programs - but you would like the fuel consumption and the 600+ (or is it 900+, I forget) data points from the engine electronics.  I see some amazing fuel figures posted for the model and often think I might put in the figures from my wife's car just to bring the average down and show some more modern life real-world consumption figures.

 

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

15W-50, never had this with other viscosities as 5W or 10W.

Were those 5w and 10w mineral oils though?

 

MAHLE (KNECHT/MAHLE) OC 986 and OC 986 A - Mann equivalent - https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Oil Filter/W 610~3

  

Edited by nta16
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1 minute ago, nta16 said:

Were those 5w and 10w mineral oils though?

 

5W and 10W were synthetics, even with 10W semisynthetic i didn't had this.

 

1 minute ago, nta16 said:

 

Link not working.

Sorry, an error occurred. Please reload this page.

Error code: 910cfe72-5f7d-49d8-b63f-50e3702eed15-5

 

NO Skoda for Manhle OC 986 filter

Product CatalogEurope/ Middle East/ Africa

https://qr.mahle.com/eu/product.xhtml?eid=394043&r=0.14164952527947017

 

Only Mahle OC 981

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oil-filter-10359/skoda/felicia/felicia-ii-6u1/11193-1-3?supplier[0]=10223

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16 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Link not working.

You beat me to my edit, see replacement hyperlink in previous post.

 

 

16 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

NO Skoda for Manhle OC 986 filter

Yes I saw that, but that doesn't mean it can't be fitted and work well but I don't know I've not checked @Thefeliciahacker gave the number so I assume he has checked and fitted the Manhle OC 986 filter to his car but it is just my assumption and as ALWAYS check and double check any information for yourself particularly if seen on the internet.

 

https://qr.mahle.com/eu/product.xhtml?eid=394043&r=0.14164952527947017

 

https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Oil Filter/W 610~3

 

Edited by nta16
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1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Yes 986 for the gpunto 981 for the felly got em mixed up

Don't worry - you'll mix up and forget more as you get older, something to look forward to. 😊

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No Skoda in the list for W 610/3

 

3 hours ago, nta16 said:

 

Mann W 712/43

https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Oil Filter/W 712~43

Felicia:

 

Engine code

ccm

kW

HP

Year of manufacture

 

1.3

135B, AMG

1289

40

54

10/94 → 08/01

 

1.3

136 B/M, AMH

1289

50

68

10/94 → 08/01

 

1.3

135L/AMJ

1289

43

58

10/94 → 08/01

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3 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

No Skoda in the list for W 610/3

See previous posts.

 

Yeap, I get the same search results. - Mann W 712/43

 

Model type                        1.3

Engine code                      136 B/M, AMH

ccm                                    1289

kW                                      50

HP                                       68

Year of manufacture       10/94 → 08/01

 

https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/vehicle/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Vehicles/CARS %2B TRANSPORTERS/SKODA/Felicia/1.3 136 B~M, AMH (T00000000330313)

 

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No video.

As for the ''rough'' sound, for 15+ years after turning the key the needle was going to 1100rpm and after a 3:40-45 minutes was making a small dive, few seconds idle trembling and then at the right spot.

Now with the 15W-50 everything is not good, i haven't see something positive except the sound of the engine when reaches the idle, it's a bit ''bass'' and that's it.

 

ScreenShot_20231220100913.png

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Since i am self-taught in english (by book) i can't understand abbraviations and Yankee ''movie style" idioms. 😉

 

I can not compromise with the idea that after 15+ years now i have that ''rough'' style cold engine starts only because of that damned 15W.

The Highway and Mountain Roads test will come soon but i bet that this viscosity will let me down as he already did so far.

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39 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Since i am self-taught in english (by book) i can't understand abbraviations and Yankee ''movie style" idioms. 😉

Your English is great.  I could well be wrong but "mains" I think means main bearings.

 

Trying  to hammer home the point again, it is the Total Quartz 15w-50 mineral oil that is disappointing you, the oil as a whole, and no doubt its 15w grade will be contributing but a different and (proper) synthetic 15w oil may give slightly different results.  Google tells me there are 400 different types of oranges, they are all oranges but they vary.

 

There is one multigrade of oil that I would try given all you and Thefeliciahacker have put as you both own and run the cars in Greece but there was and is no point me suggesting it until you have tried alternatives to judge against as, like my wife, you are a person that needs "to see it with their own eyes to believe it".  Even then it might, as all the others, and like everything about a car, have compromises.  There is no need for it but you might be better using different multigrades for summer and winter.  When summer and winter starts and finishes weather and temperature wise I would have no idea, it's all mixed up in England now.

 

Perhaps the oil will fair better with the highways and mountain roads test particularly if you can drive in a spirited way on the mountains.

 

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15 minutes ago, nta16 said:

main bearings

 

Oh, these?

 

crankshaft-forged-profile.jpg

 

16 minutes ago, nta16 said:

that needs "to see it with their own eyes to believe it"

 

Since i haven't see something positive till now with 15W how can i be satisfied? It's like to wear a pair of boots, tough-thick leather for snow-mud etc but very tight in your foot and as you feel uncomfortable someone telling you

''keep wear them, they will protect you from winter very good".

Rough cold starting, no good rev up, bad fuel consumption and still have more to see.

I am not a prophet but i think after finishing my trip only ''bad'' words will come to my mouth for the behaviour of the engine with this 15W engine oil.

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I manage to find an opportunity and made a small mountain route in the City, not the one that i was planed for my trip which is 80+ Km long.

I tested the 15W-50 in 2nd-3rd gear at high rpm (more that 3500 which is the Green zone) many times (i couldn't engage 4th gear) making round around a small mountain, so let's start:

 

1) Turn the key, the needle went to 900 rpm, started up and down a bit and the whole car was trembling, the dashboard-plastics etc were shaking like they were in earthquake.

The first thing that came to my mind was something from my childhood, the cement mixer of 70's

https://static.car.gr/325256569_0_b.jpg

Only slander words came to my mouth and i wish i could shoot the remaining bottle of that oil (i will send it to recycle). 😠

 

2) After the first shock i waited 1' and start rolling, things went quiet for some minutes and when the coolant temperature raised i started ''pushing things'' since there was to other car in front of me.

FAILURE, the engine was hesitating, in two uphills with small inclination the engine refused to go more that 4000 rpm easily, in purpose i pushed till 5000 and i felt that i was close to a turbine with no earmuffs.

No matter what (even in a downhill) the engine was showing me that didn't liked the 15W-50 and couldn't reach older rpm limits except if i want to torture the engine.

This remind me the Castrol semi-synthetic that i have used in the past, good only for a guy which drives like a taxi.

I was expecting it a bit and the prove was showed in front of my face, i was right, that damned-miserable-incompetent-cursed-useless engine oil is NOT for my car.

I spend money and gasoline trying to test that wretched engine oil, i don't wanna see it in front of me !

Total waist, nothing more than a crappy oil.

 

I will post two photos from fuel consumption for everyone who's not believe me, with 5W-40 with much more weight and after 80+ kilometres of sport driving i had 6,9 ltr / 100 Km or 40.94 British MPG

With 10W-40 i had 7,1 ltr (39.79 British MPG) till 7,9 ltr (35.76 British MPG), when you see the one with the 15W-50 even the ''unbelieving Thomas'' will be convinced.

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How tf I'm I not seeing any of these except the rough cold start. 

You think all these things are measurable? 

Please make a test when the oil is hot. 

Maybe you have a faulty pressure release valve or smth. 

5000rpms are useless in our engines in any case we have no reason to ever exceed 3500rpm

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