If it has got an egr cooler, no need to remove the exhaust, simply remove the little pipe that goes between the egr cooler and the turbo.

That's why I don't have any remnants of the EGR system at all, all removed and thrown away :-)

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Andy, I have the EGR and cooler removed with the Darkside kit. Is the turbo easily accesable, and is it just a matter of taking off the blanking plate ????

nice and easy with the cooler out of the way.

Just remove the air intake pipes between the airbox and turbo and then take the blanking plate off of the manifold and fill from there. Can all be done from above quite easily.

The air intake pipe that runs across the back of the engine can be left attached to the turbo as long as you remove the two mounting screws so it can be moved slightly to allow access to the turbo and manifold.

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Cheers Andy. It's starting to go into limp mode at motorway speeds + a little bit!!

This turbo is on the car for about 300,000kms so it owes me nothing at this stage.

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Worth a try for a few quid then

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Thanks for all this info , i've just done this to my Superb 1.9Tdi AWX engine . I've been patiently waiting for good weather before starting.

I have been putting a bottle of Forte in every 3 weeks.

I removed the Egr and pipe from Egr to turbo. bought the tubing from Wilkinsons and elbow from Pets at home, warm up the tubing in a cup of boiling water and it will slide on the elbow easier. Sprayed in the Mr Muscle , it quickly came foaming out . Then put a blanking plate on the turbo ,washed off the mr muscle foam with watering can. Cleaned the Egr , put another blanking plate onto Egr and refitted the Egr back to the car.It took about 2 and a half hours all in. No more problems with limp mode now , the warning light stays on but i can ignore that. Its much more responsive and quieter now.

Hi Lofty79, I have had problem with limp mode on my seat alhambra 1.9 tdi auy engine some days it is spot on and then other days where ever I hit a small incline it cuts out at 3000 rev in 3/4 gear I was wondering if you can explain is it the same process with your wonderful mr muscle to rectify this problem seems like mr muscle has worked wonders for everyone so I was thinking may work wonders for me

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Yup indeed matey, fire it down yer turbo

Anyone in Newcastle who can give me a hand to do it someone who's done it before or anyone close by

i done this to my car and works a treat! i thank you very very much for a nice simple easy guide to you and the guy with picture nearer the bottem aswell. seems 100x more powerfull! cheers

Hi Lofty79, I have had problem with limp mode on my seat alhambra 1.9 tdi auy engine some days it is spot on and then other days where ever I hit a small incline it cuts out at 3000 rev in 3/4 gear I was wondering if you can explain is it the same process with your wonderful mr muscle to rectify this problem seems like mr muscle has worked wonders for everyone so I was thinking may work wonders for me

????????????????????

i there i got a golf gt tdi, mine done the same so changed air filter act checked sensor by taking out and seeing if any difference but ended up getting rac even though car worked went otherside of town and called them to use there diagnosis kit (no point paying 40-70 quid just to get a check, when theyll prob just say you need new turbo) but i had same problem as you it lost alot of power at 3k revs in 3/4 and still could feel turbo but not very well :/ done mine last night

Hi lofty,

New to this forum.. My octavia 1.9 tdi 105 doesnt feel as fast at times and sometimes doesnt have no power when foot down and other times its fine. Wanted to do your mr muscle treatment but dont know if i should do it at home after buying the ratchet and hex keys or tell a mechanic to do it for me (only problem is having it parked at the mechanics for a couple of hours for it to be cold as mr muscle is flammable).. I can carry out servicing on cars but just dont want to break anything whilst doing this. By the way what size hex key is needed and any idea of any reasonable places where i can buy the hex keys and ratchet from? Thanks

I would say if your not really mech minded, find a competant friend.

Ebay will be your friend for cheapy single use type tools.

I wanna say just do it but dont hold me responsible if its too much for ya. Its hard to permanently damage anything though

Hi Lofty,just registered with the site to thank you. I have had the limp mode problem with my mk.1 Octavia since just after I got it at the back end of last year (maybe all the time I have had it?),so I googled it and found your post on the forum. We already had some Mr.Muscle under the sink (result!) so I got some pipe and an elbow from Pets at Home and got on with it. Everything came apart easily after I soaked the turbo end studs for the EGR overnight with WD40. After spraying in the foam I tried to work the actuator it didn't seem to move much so I left it for a while to let the foam work its magic. It still didn't move much,thats when I wondered if the actuator was stuck in the down end of the stroke so I levered it up with a screwdriver and sure enough it sprung back up (worth remembering if anyone else is trying the job).I carried on working it till it was free then put it back together and gave it a test run, as many other people have found,I now have a completely different car. To anyone thinking of trying the fix I would say go for it,you wouldn't beliveve how easy it is! Thanks again Lofty

Thanks for this superb guide Lofty.

My Octavia Mk 1 ASV 110 TDI wasn't suffering from overboost but very low boost at low RPM with supplied meeting demanded boost once 2500RPM is reached. I was unable to move the turbo actuator so my working assumption was that it was stuck open.

I've given this two treatments and I've got about 3mm of very gritty feeling play on the actuator. And a very sore thumb! I haven't logged the car with VAGCOM yet but it feels a little bit better.

Is it worth me perservering with this? If 2 2 hour soak and wiggle sessions didn't fix it does that mean something more terminal has gone wrong?

Sounds like you vanes were stuck in the high speed position, hence why no overboost and no grunt low down.

Previously some people have found that corrosion rather than carbon build is the reason why the vanes were sticking, this could be your problem.

Previously some people have found that corrosion rather than carbon build is the reason why the vanes were sticking, this could be your problem.

Would that be corrosion of the external actuator? I will get under the car and try and have a look.

Would that be corrosion of the external actuator? I will get under the car and try and have a look.

No, corrosion on the face of the turbo where the vanes are, basically a build up of rust which prevents the vanes moving just like with a carbon build up.

No, corrosion on the face of the turbo where the vanes are, basically a build up of rust which prevents the vanes moving just like with a carbon build up.

Rust inside? Eeek!

Rust inside? Eeek!

apparently

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Well I joined briskoda whilst deciding what car to buy and use as a taxi

i bought F**d M****o (sorry...)

Ive got a red coil light/limp mode, i took it to agarge and supplied an Inottec kit and it came back running on 3 cyliders and ive had to spen £900 on injectors (in a car thats done 170,000) but still have the VGT problem, actuator-turbo arm is a sticky as a rasp, hard to move by hand, looks like i need some mr muscle too....

good luck lads

This is a Mondeo turbo, im thinking ill drop the cat down and go up and in via the exhaust - cat mounting

Sounds like you vanes were stuck in the high speed position, hence why no overboost and no grunt low down.

Previously some people have found that corrosion rather than carbon build is the reason why the vanes were sticking, this could be your problem.

What can you use to clean the exterior mechanism of the actuator? I.E free it up a little

What can you use to clean the exterior mechanism of the actuator? I.E free it up a little

Do you mean the rod that goes into the bulbous bit? If so, is it rusty or something?

No it's the part I pump to loosen in the guide. It's a little stiff and seemed to stiffen after my last pump session. So I wanted to know if I can clean/lube it