With regards using Mr muscle on a bkd engine, do I need to work from under the car. I've just looked at mine from the top and it seems impossible to get near the turbo. Any advice would he greatfully received

No from on top around passenger side of engine. You'll need to remove air intake pipes, and egr cooler (although i managed to do one with cooler left on. Alternatively if you take exhaust downpipe off at turbo, and get a nozzle like wd40 cans have, and use the nozzle and straw to inject Mr muscle directly into turbo, this also works a treat. Push the actuator regularly and inject mr muscle through fins at 12, 3, 6 and 9 oclock positions. Every now and then reapply and itll push dirty product out and replace it with new. And push actuater again

Similar, I can't see how I can easily get it into the turbo.

Its hardly gonna open wide for you, some parts removal will be necessary. But its not major engine works just a little pipe work and egr cooler

Fyi took me 15 minutes to get into 3 bkd's I've done to date. Fiddly but basic stuff.

Also have a look at pics of a bkd turbo as they have an egr pipe hole on manifold slightly offset, so you need to make sure the silicone pipe goes towards middle of turbo a little. not hard just take care

Fyi took me 15 minutes to get into 3 bkd's I've done to date. Fiddly but basic stuff.

I'll take a deeper look at it when I've got a little more time.

15 minutes doesn't seem too bad though, considering the cost of a new turbo otherwise.

Get into it, once you have cleared a few bits, shine a torch and you should see whats facing you. I've worked on cars for a while so removing ancillary parts I class as easy stuff. I'm aware a lot are not familiar with this kind of work but its a simple concept of removing nuts and parts come off. Put bits back and add bolts they are then put back

Lofty, do you have to completely remove the egr pipe, from the exhaust manifold end and up underneath the egr cooler ?

Lofty, do you have to completely remove the egr pipe, from the exhaust manifold end and up underneath the egr cooler ?

I see you found the same issue I did.

I can't see it,except by taking a picture of the area, but I could feel it.

I'm not usually one for taking things apart that I can't see, purely because putting it back together is harder to be certain you did it right.

It does seem that the turbo on the 2.0 is much harder to get to from on top. I'm considering getting under the thing and going in from the exhaust side of the turbo.

I see you found the same issue I did.

I can't see it,except by taking a picture of the area, but I could feel it.

I'm not usually one for taking things apart that I can't see, purely because putting it back together is harder to be certain you did it right.

It does seem that the turbo on the 2.0 is much harder to get to from on top. I'm considering getting under the thing and going in from the exhaust side of the turbo.

Yes, I plan to do the same, hopefully if the weather holds out this weekend I'll give a whirl. I guess its a case of dropping the undertray then undoing the clamp on the turbo/exhaust

If you get on to it before i do let me know.

Will do, I've got thursday and friday off work and hope to attempt it then

Any pictures you can get of the turbo exhaust mount and it's location would be appreciated

I think I have this problem on an AHL motor. I will let you all know how I get on.

Quick question first - just how stiff should the turbo actuator be? I can move it less than 1cm and it is very stiff. What is the normal travel and how easy should it move?

it is supposed to be stiff, and less than 1cm is normal, the problem is when it cant be moved, or when it has an almost gritty feel to it.

I have an ALH motor and its a piece of peee to do, i would go in from exhaust side and remove the downpipe, that was a doddle i did it that way for a friend the other day

Well there is now a tin of the Mr Muscle no scrubbing oven cleaner sitting in my cupboard waiting for the car or for the oven to get dirty.

I'm wondering if it's worth getting a set of drive on ramps to do this from under the car.

Edited 16 October, 201213 yr by cheezemonkhai

I'm wondering if it's worth getting a set of drive on ramps to do this from under the car.

WEAR GOGGLES!!!!

Well, I've been under the car this morning with the intentions of applying Mr Muscle in the turbo via the exhaust side. Now, I have undone the clamp for the exhaust o turbo, but there are 3 clips that hold the pipe to the turbo. I read on an audi forum that you need to use a screwdriver to pry off the clips. So I tried (admittedly not too hard) to pry one off, but to no avail. I'm a little worried that these are so tight that once off I'd never get then back on. The good news is that my actuator rod moves freely (a cm or so), no gritty feeling or stiffness (other than the resistance from the vacuum itself, I assume). So back to the exhaust clamp, can anyone advise please

Edited 18 October, 201213 yr by cj_uk

Well, I know it's been a while so I thought I'd give an update... Forte turbo cleaner arrived, whacked it in with 20l diesel and ran it through (that's why it's taken a while to report back!) and it seemed to free up the turbo a bit, ie revs didn't drop every time it hit 3k revs. Because of work I'm on a 600mile round trip on motorway/higher speeds so managed to get the revs up and under load and it now seems to be clear (touch wood!).

So in conclusion, it seems to have worked!! I was a bit sceptical to start too!

"................Anyone that does this and gets the results please post and let us know"

I write this reply as one more happy site member, Lofty. Thank you for sharing this solution.

My 1.9tdi, 105bhp, octavia, developed a bad habit of occasionally going into limp mode at or around 75mph. The fuel filter was due a change, it was dirty when removed and I thought that was the problem solved. Not so. I read this post, showed it to the mechanic who works on my car and he agreed to do it. Working from underneath, he removed the exhaust from the back of the turbo, stretched a latex glove over the mouth of the turbo and filled it with Mr Muscle, leaving it for the 2 hour contact time. When working the actuator he found it didn't have full travel, but at the end of two hours, it had full travel and moved smoothly

Since the job was done, I haven't had limp mode, despite putting the speed beyond levels that would previously have provoked limp mode. There is now more power through the gears, and better acceleration in 5th.

All in all, I'm delighted your solution has worked and I now feel much more assured when overtaking.

Thank again Lofty

Great mate thanks for that, always nice to hear someone has saved some money. That's a good mechanic too, as alot just demand a new turbo or a strip and clean.

If you learn eventually to ha e a go yourself, in future IF it needs done again - sorted.

Thanks for the reply mate.

I've just done this and it seems to have done the trick. Despite lots of jokes from people about how clean my car was looking, it genuinely seems sprightlier and I cannot make it go into limp mode. Have just re-read the bit about going to full revs and admittedly I haven't red lined it, just to about 4.5 on a steep hill in 2nd, but it would do it at 3.5 usually. Will really give it some beans later and if it does limp I shall report back. As it stands, I have to add myself to the list of overwhelming testimonials that it works. Well done, nice fix, many thanks.

Aye you should be fine at that mate.........Glad it worked

Just to confirm, booted it to the limit just now. Not a flicker. For those out there about to do this, the actuator does require a reasonable bit of pressure so don't be shy. I figured it was done when I could feel it hit a definite stopping point each time and it didn't seem to be changing in resistance anymore. A couple of hours with regular pumping stints is good advice. Had to move a fat air pipe to get my tiny arms down the back of the engine and did things by feel more than sight, but it worked!

Thanks again and happy motoring.