1.8TSI and 2.0TSI engine failures

[stever750]

Not read through last 40 pages, but what is the trend with this issue, have more recent engines suffered this issue, or has it largely been resolved? 

[Nuclear_Jules]

The redesigned scrapper rings were introduced 2011-2012 so depends on your build date.
 

The Cam chains breaking are a separate issues but all bundled into this engine failure thread.

[stever750]

35 minutes ago, Nuclear_Jules said:

The redesigned scrapper rings were introduced 2011-2012 so depends on your build date.
 

The Cam chains breaking are a separate issues but all bundled into this engine failure thread.

MY2019 so I would be hopeful that the oil rings and the tensioner problem is consigned to history.....

EDIT: just realised I'm posting in the mk2 thread, not mk3...d'oh

Edited 27 July, 2021 by stever750

[Pacific_Blue]

Adding my wife's newly-purchased Superb 1.8 TSI to the chain. It's a 2011 model (61-plate) with 78,000 miles. We did a test drive and all was well. She went off a week later to pick it up, and by the time she got it 16 miles home there was an appalling eggy smell and the front wings were so hot you could have cooked eggs on them. Let it all cool off and discovered that there was no oil in it.

 

Nothing wrong on the gauges. No warning lights. Running smooth... but hot and smelly.

 

Filled it with oil and took it back to the dealer (massive reduction in eggy smell but still a faint whiff). They called a day later to say that the piston rings were gone, that Euro Car Parts were out of stock and that a main dealer would replace them next week. Interested to know what else they should be replacing as a result of any damage caused.

[Nuclear_Jules]

It’s going to need a bottom end rebuild so it will be best to change the chains and tensioners if nothing else. Probably best to have the turbo checked for damage too

[Blueglue]

Many people suffering balance shaft failures on these yet?

I just started tracking my 2009 ccza 2.0 tsi and got low oil pressure.

Dropped the sump and found small crumbly type pieces of aluminium (nothing ferrous).

Going into a specialist this week hopefully, but believe one of the balance shafts has seized due to high oil temp and possible starvation when i went hard round a turn.

Seems to be creeping into road cars as well depending on servicing and other factors. What an engine eh? Haha

 

Previously has new rear main seal and pcv due to failure, new intake valves due to the failure and preventative maintenance of camchain and tensioner as well as bearing and piston rings whilst they were in there. Spent more on the engine than what the car is worth since i bought in December 2019.

 

Good blog from a garage regarding the balance shafts going with almost identical pictures of debris to mine.

 

http://robisonservice.blogspot.com/2019/06/timing-chain-and-balance-shaft-failures.html

 

 

 

Edited 13 September, 2021 by Blueglue

[bspman]

40 minutes ago, Blueglue said:

Spent more on the engine than what the car is worth

 

This echoes my experience too 😞

[TheClient]

On 13/09/2021 at 20:57, Blueglue said:

 

Good blog from a garage regarding the balance shafts going with almost identical pictures of debris to mine.

 

http://robisonservice.blogspot.com/2019/06/timing-chain-and-balance-shaft-failures.html

 

Yeah interesting read, not just VAG then!  When I got a garage to do the timing chain and tensioner on my CCZA vRS, they day after I bought it, I was toying whether to pay extra to change the screen on the cam bridge, as there were several reports of them falling apart or blocking and causing further engine damage as well.

 

In the end I did not. And I had no major engine trouble between 34k miles and 75k miles when I sold. I did all other maintenance excl the timing chain tensioner and chain which was done by an indie VW specialist garage.  Always changed oil at 12 months or 8k miles. Always used VW 502.00.  I know it does not guarantee avoiding issues on these but I feel it does help or I was just very lucky....

 

 

[TheClient]

On 10/09/2021 at 10:15, Pacific_Blue said:

 Interested to know what else they should be replacing as a result of any damage caused.

Any parts subject to oil starvation.  Turbo, cam, bottom end crankshaft and bearing shells. Also, it important to understand that under normal circumstance, assuming the engine has not previously had the modified pistons and conrods, an oil ring only is not the recommended TPI fix per skoda. 

 

Edit: You may want to carefully consider return rights unless they are going to fix properly, and to be honest, they would probably be under water if they did so!

Edited 15 September, 2021 by TheClient

[Nuclear_Jules]

My 2011 1.8 tsi needed new con rods and redesigned pistons when they identified high oil consumption. 

[sdwilliams72]

I've noticed my 2010 using more oil, its always used a little, but have spotted  puffs of smoke whilst idling, exhaust is pretty sooty!... Its now on 110k, passed the MOT last week but only after a rerun on the emissions. It flagged up an oil leak between engine/gearbox so would probably need the clutch looking at et al as well...

I just dont really have the confidence in the car I used to have...

Have owned the car since day 1, but decided to finally trade it in, and am moving away from the vRS scene after having owned one since my Mk1 52 plate. (19 years ago...)

Just a quick thanks to all here that have provided info over the years, its an amazing source of info, you're a good bunch!

 

Happy Motoring 🙂 

[Blueglue]

35 minutes ago, sdwilliams72 said:

I've noticed my 2010 using more oil, its always used a little, but have spotted  puffs of smoke whilst idling, exhaust is pretty sooty!... Its now on 110k, passed the MOT last week but only after a rerun on the emissions. It flagged up an oil leak between engine/gearbox so would probably need the clutch looking at et al as well...

I just dont really have the confidence in the car I used to have...

Have owned the car since day 1, but decided to finally trade it in, and am moving away from the vRS scene after having owned one since my Mk1 52 plate. (19 years ago...)

Just a quick thanks to all here that have provided info over the years, its an amazing source of info, you're a good bunch!

 

Happy Motoring 🙂 

Thats sounds like your rear mainseal has failed. It can do it after a pcv failure or the glue on the seal just seperates due to age (the new revision is sandwiched toprevent this happening). Its an easy fix albeit expensive labour costs. My clutch was covered in oil so needed replacing as well.

 

Heres me diagnosing mine after two dealers and two indy garages couldnt work out what the problem was.

 

https://youtu.be/dTRXkwSwbxM

Edited 28 September, 2021 by Blueglue

[sdwilliams72]

49 minutes ago, Blueglue said:

Thats sounds like your rear mainseal has failed. It can do it after a pcv failure or the glue on the seal just seperates due to age (the new revision is sandwiched toprevent this happening). Its an easy fix albeit expensive labour costs. My clutch was covered in oil so needed replacing as well.

 

Heres me diagnosing mine after two dealers and two indy garages couldnt work out what the problem was.

 

https://youtu.be/dTRXkwSwbxM

Yes, it could possibly be... 
I did throw a fault code for Evap system a while back but can't recall the number, and I had recent misfires on Cylinder 4 that led to a new set of plugs, that was done when it went in for the MOT.
I had been thinking of changing it after 11 years service anyways, so this kinda just nudged me to get it done!
A lot of my 110k has been around town use rather than motorway trips, so I think I have probably seen the best of her anyways...
;-) 

 

[MadHATR]

On 08/12/2014 at 23:17, MadHATR said:

 

Correct, but even a new chain assembly will do 35k miles, so if you engine is ok putting a new original spec assembly is better than doing nothing.

 

I have the latest spec on mine and as Norco says it has a pin the garage set when installing it, so it implies that I should get more that 35k before changing the chain.

 

Knowing there is an issue, I'd rather have done something and been wrong, than nothing and had my engine fail.

 

If my engine does expire due to a chain issue I can be assured that I have done all that I could, before going back to buying Honda's !

FWIW, still on this chain asseembly at 107,000 miles

[Neal_R]

On 15/09/2021 at 16:45, Nuclear_Jules said:

My 2011 1.8 tsi needed new con rods and redesigned pistons when they identified high oil consumption. 

I dont suppose you have the OEM part numbers for the parts used?

 

Exact same issue with my CDAA 1.8 TSI

[avi4tor]

My 2011 1.8 has always used oil, and I got it with 4,000 miles on the clock.  It gets really bad when I'm driving in Exmoor - lots of high revs, low gear work on the hills. Its now up to 85,000 miles.

 

Yesterday it started mis-firing and being lumpy, mainly around 2,000 rpm.  The local garage is going to put in new coils and plugs on Monday and hopefully that will sort it.  In the meantime its staying on the drive.

[Neal_R]

2 minutes ago, avi4tor said:

My 2011 1.8 has always used oil, and I got it with 4,000 miles on the clock.  It gets really bad when I'm driving in Exmoor - lots of high revs, low gear work on the hills. Its now up to 85,000 miles.

 

Yesterday it started mis-firing and being lumpy, mainly around 2,000 rpm.  The local garage is going to put in new coils and plugs on Monday and hopefully that will sort it.  In the meantime its staying on the drive.

Oil scraper rings. Needs new pistons and ideally new conrods (23mm wrist pin upgrades). The oil being burned with the fuel and air is the problem, not the plugs or coils. You'll be throwing money away. Change the plugs but look to get those 2 changed or move the car on. Been researching this for nearly 12 months now.

 

Good luck mate.

 

 

[Blueglue]

1 hour ago, Neal_R said:

Oil scraper rings. Needs new pistons and ideally new conrods (23mm wrist pin upgrades). The oil being burned with the fuel and air is the problem, not the plugs or coils. You'll be throwing money away. Change the plugs but look to get those 2 changed or move the car on. Been researching this for nearly 12 months now.

 

Good luck mate.

 

 

 

I get what youre saying, but Audi specifically used different pistons in the longitudinal engines so the pistons fix doesnt necessarily cover the rest of the VAG group.

Uprated piston rings 100% for all VAG gen 1/2 engines as i have done it myself, but not pistons for a daily car unless you're forging it as it isnt worth it.

 

I rebuilt my engine in 2019 and its not worth it day to day especially as people are starting to get balance shaft failures just to add to the timing chain woes.

 

 

[Nuclear_Jules]

11 hours ago, avi4tor said:

My 2011 1.8 has always used oil, and I got it with 4,000 miles on the clock.  It gets really bad when I'm driving in Exmoor - lots of high revs, low gear work on the hills. Its now up to 85,000 miles.

 

Yesterday it started mis-firing and being lumpy, mainly around 2,000 rpm.  The local garage is going to put in new coils and plugs on Monday and hopefully that will sort it.  In the meantime its staying on the drive.

How bad is really bad? How much are you topping up? Before the fix mine was using one litre of oil in 200-300 miles.

[avi4tor]

2 hours ago, Nuclear_Jules said:

How bad is really bad? How much are you topping up? Before the fix mine was using one litre of oil in 200-300 miles.

Usually it's half that (a litre every 500) , but in Exmoor I was putting in a bit more than that (a litre every 150).  But I can live with it, the cost of the extra oil is insignificant compared to the cost of an engine rebuild.  I don't think the current mis-firing is due to it, the servicing has become erratic in the last 2 years due to low usage, and the quality of the fuel in the local petrol stations has also suffered due to low take up (some are still selling it at last year's prices).  But the cost of an extra set of plugs every 85,000 miles doesn't compare to the cost of an engine rebuild.

[TheClient]

Unfortunately and disappointingly it will just give up due to that usage.

 

And it will foul plugs and kill coil packs. But replacing those is just a temporary fix which is unlikely to last a lot longer now you're on 85k.

 

It is very surprising you've survived this long but I doubt it was using the same amount at 4k miles or even 14k miles, as it is now. The problem gets worse over time. No pleasure for any of us in saying  this. 

 

 

[Nuclear_Jules]

Will definitely need new pistons and rings if your going to keep it. The extra oil deposits on the valves will cause them to burn eventually and you will lose compression. Then you will need to replace the valves and pistons. 
on a positive note I haven’t needed to top up oil between services since having the redesigned pistons.

[avi4tor]

It was just a faulty coil, and the car was still on its original spark plugs, so those were all replaced.  The only advisory was, if one coil has failed, the other 3 are probably going to give problems soon.

[TheClient]

I'm sure it will be doing another 85,000 using 1 litre per 500 miles. It is only another 170 litres of oil after all to burn through the combustion chamber. Deposits? Nah   I'm pretty sure you and your mechanic wont notice.  You're obviously on a gold ticket so stick with it. 

[MrSquare]

2011 vrs

CCZA with 60k on it, have a bumper to bumper 6 month warranty on it.

Skoda UK say no TSB and local Skoda dealer didn't want to quote a tensioner or price as for fitting-which is odd.

 

Do I drive on and just before end of warranty get it changed and if it blows in warranty so be it?

 

Confused dot com my mate took a photo below which I think is original 2011 unmodified part?

 

Edited 20 March, 2022 by MrSquare