1.8TSI and 2.0TSI engine failures

[john493]

So if I buy a 2011  2.0TSI  Octavia VRS,  I'd be wanting to fit the latest version of the timing chain tensioner, which I believe is 06K 109 467  & I'd probably do the work myself.

Anyone on here done this work themselves ?  Any feedback ?

 

Thanks

Edited 14 November, 2019 by john493

[davetheosteopath]

Hi John,

 

The DIY replacement was covered here, but I can't remember how far back in this thread.  I think the post referred to this post in the VW forum (https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8823481-DIY-TSI-Timing-Chain-) which is documented quite clearly.

Which part of the country are you in?  It maybe that you can find some forum help from members locally and Good Luck if you go down this route.

 

Although, one thing to bare in mind (and if you can take the time to read through the entirety of this thread) is that the the timing chain is one part of the issue with these engines and that the rings are another big one.  it would be prudent to be aware of both before a new purchase.

 

Kind Regards,

 

Dave

Edited 15 November, 2019 by davetheosteopath
Typo

[DC04R]

Hi again all 

 

Ok after much deliberation I'm thinking to take the plunge and get a face-lift mk3 230.

 

Im lost with all the engine codes etc, so can you tell me, is there much to go wrong with this engine (2017)? 

 

30k on it, fsh. Ta

[silver1011]

You'd be better posting your question in the dedicated MkIII forum, rather than here in the MkII area...

 

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-onward/

[DC04R]

Ahh sorry wrong section 

[silver1011]

No worries, the only issue worthy of note I've heard of on the MkIII is a dodgy batch of water pumps, other than that they're pretty robust.

[Chris_V]

Hi there. I'm the new proud owner of a black beauty: Skoda Octavia FL Combi 1.8 TSI + LPG. And while the engine refrains itself from eating any oil and is rather silent while under operating temperature (80 Celsius or higher), it does have a weird temper while cold.

I get misfires on cylinder 1 (P0131 I think) and today I got a bonus round of errors.

Have you ever seen something similar? Because I didn't in any of my previous cars.

Actually, other than changing the spark plugs with NGK ones (designed for LPG), I also went to Skoda and did a compression test, it got 11 bar on 3 of the cylinders and 10 bar on the 4th one. So it shouldn't be a compression issue.

I really suspect a culprit on the electrical side, being either the battery or some gremlin in the wires.

What do you think?

Oh, and thank you if you take the time to answer to this post. :)

 

[TheClient]

I haven't seen the combination of errors. First instinct, if it were a conventional petrol 1.8tsi, is either coil pack or injector problem if plugs are ok. Swap cyl 1 coil pack and see if problem changes cyl.  Also, suggest opening a new thread with a specific title to your problem. 

[Freestayl]

Hi,

 

so I am the new member of Skoda Octavia owners club. A couple of moths ago I just bought myself Octavia Scout 1.8TSi, 4x4, 2011. The car has 112k km on odometer. Unfortunately for me, the car drinks oil like a thirsty camel drinks water in the dessert. That means that it uses 0,5l of oil per 200km. Everywhere I go I have to bring a canister of oil with me. The previous owners said he does not know anything about that problem and because the car is out of warranty my only option seems to be to repair the engine.

 

I drove the car to the mechanics which says he has to change pistons rings with pistons and con rod. He also wants to change the chain and the chain tensioner. The repair will cost me approximately 2400 eur.

 

My question is: if I put 2,4k eur in the car, will then the engine be reliable or are there any other major issues that I have to be aware of?

 

Thank you all for your answers.

David

[Blueglue]

25 minutes ago, Freestayl said:

Hi,

 

so I am the new member of Skoda Octavia owners club. A couple of moths ago I just bought myself Octavia Scout 1.8TSi, 4x4, 2011. The car has 112k km on odometer. Unfortunately for me, the car drinks oil like a thirsty camel drinks water in the dessert. That means that it uses 0,5l of oil per 200km. Everywhere I go I have to bring a canister of oil with me. The previous owners said he does not know anything about that problem and because the car is out of warranty my only option seems to be to repair the engine.

 

I drove the car to the mechanics which says he has to change pistons rings with pistons and con rod. He also wants to change the chain and the chain tensioner. The repair will cost me approximately 2400 eur.

 

My question is: if I put 2,4k eur in the car, will then the engine be reliable or are there any other major issues that I have to be aware of?

 

Thank you all for your answers.

David

 

For a start the previous owner is lying to you. These cars either use lots of oil or they dont. The fact you're losing oil straight away wouldnt happen over night so im unsure what reasoning they have for lying to you.

 

I had the cam chain/tensioner and rings changed on my 2.0 TSI vRS as preventative maintenance when i had some worn valves replaced.

 

Even though i had the latest recommended revision VW piston rings the car still uses oil but a lot less (around 0.5l every 1000km. I also installed an oil catch can and you can tell there is a lot of oil blow by due to the amount being deposited in the can. Apparently changing the pistons as well fully fixes the issue but is mainly for Audi engines which have the engine seated differently.

 

If you have this work done it should be worth it if youre going to keep the car for two years or so as you will not make any money back if you sell it.

Buying any second hand car

[Freestayl]

Thank you for your answer Blueglue, although I was hoping to get more encouraging answer, something like "After the repair the car drives well and all is good for several years".

 

Could you tell me if the fuel economy improved after the repair? Mine is now really bad but I do not know if this is due to bad compression or is this the natural state of this engine which I must get used to it.

 

O, and I wish you and all the gus here a Merry Christmass!

David

 

 

[Nuclear_Jules]

Skoda dealer had to fix my 2011 1.8tsi under warranty, new turbo, con rods, pistons and timing chain kit. Car drives well just did a 200 mile motorway journey and averaged 43mpg can get higher if you drive less enthusiastically 

[silver1011]

On 27/12/2019 at 10:05, Freestayl said:

Thank you for your answer Blueglue, although I was hoping to get more encouraging answer, something like "After the repair the car drives well and all is good for several years".

 

Could you tell me if the fuel economy improved after the repair? Mine is now really bad but I do not know if this is due to bad compression or is this the natural state of this engine which I must get used to it.

 

What is the current fuel economy you are getting?

 

The Scout is generally a tough car, as long as it has had the Haldex oil (and filter!) changed.

 

It is too late now, but for anyone reading this it is simply easier to avoid the 1.8 TSI.

 

If you decide to get the engine repaired then those repaired parts should see out the rest of the car. Don't forget though it is now 8 years old. You are in dangerous territory for any modern car for unexpected big bills.

[Freestayl]

So, we have change the pistons, piston rings, con rod, chain and the tensioner. The mechanics did an outstanding job and I am very grateful to him.

Attached please take a look at the old piston. It looks awful. Bear in mind that the car has done only 112k km with it.

 

Regarding the fuel consumption, the car uses 7,8-10 liters per 100 km.

 

I have only done approximately 300km with car after it has been repaired. So far it had used 0,5l of oil. Is that normal?

[Ootohere]

Not unusual for a rebuilt engine. You are running / driving in the engine.

Get to know the Cold Check oil level & then the At Operating Temperature oil and then do not overfill.

?

What oil are you using now?  5w 40 FS to VW502 i hope and not 5w 30 FS III (long life) VW 504 / 507

[bigjohn]

Did the garage get the bores honed? - This can be usual to help new piston rings bed in.

 

With the fitment of new rings and pistons you need to effectively run in the engine - probably more so compared to a brand new one as you have new parts bedding into worn parts (the bores!) .  Be careful for a while as new rings can have a hard life especially against a bore wear lip. I used to fit "stepper" rings on engines where I was installing new pistons/rings into a block that hadn't been re-bored. 

 

As is usual when you get a new car, whilst bedding in the new parts oil consumption may be higher for the first 1000 miles or so.

 

Good advice from @Roottootemblowinootsoot re oil

Edited 25 January, 2020 by bigjohn

[Freestayl]

A big thank you to @Roottootemblowinootsoot and @bigjohn for reply which got me some peace of mind regarding the current oil cinsumption:)

 

Yes, the bores had been honed. Although I do not know what does that mean, I remember that the mechanic told me several times that he did that. He also checked the cylinders with camera to see if they are not damaged before he went to change the pistons and everything else. 

 

Regarding the oil, I am now using 5-40.

 

The next thing that I have to change in the near future is the fuel pump, because it apparently works OK but it makes some strange noises and I was advised to change it so I am now waiting for the sallary to come. I was wondering if the increased fuel consumption is due to that broken fuel pumb? 

 

[merts123]

On 28/03/2019 at 10:51, Soot1e said:

Excellent thread here.  Shame all prospective VAG 2.0 & 1.8 tsi buyers don’t read this forum before buying.  I was well aware of the timing chain problem when I bought my Audi A3 with CCZA engine.  Drove for 2 years with the fear of the tensioner/chain failure possibility but finally had the whole chain kit fitted a couple of weeks ago.  

For anyone contemplating having this done, before disaster strikes,  it should cost you £800 from a good VAG Indy, had mine done at AMD in West Thurrock and took a day to fit.

I can now relax with piece of mind every time I turn the ignition key.

I know! I think I may have gone ahead and bought mine anyway - no problems yet, had it 4 weeks :-) 09 VRS ltd ed.  1st stage celtic tuning remap and aftersales turbo. 79000 on clock.

How many miles did you have before you got the work done?? 

[Soot1e]

56 minutes ago, merts123 said:

I know! I think I may have gone ahead and bought mine anyway - no problems yet, had it 4 weeks :-) 09 VRS ltd ed.  1st stage celtic tuning remap and aftersales turbo. 79000 on clock.

How many miles did you have before you got the work done?? 

60k miles.   AMD did a fine job as usual. I did have a stage 1 remap at the same time and enjoying the extra oomph  249bhp.  All the coil packs died within 3weeks and I replaced them, it’s a common problem following a remap but no problems since. A bonus with the remap is I now see 32mpg on long runs which is up about 3mpg from before the remap, not much but has to be expected with 4wd.   
Keep a regular check of the cam cover seal at the front above the water pump. If it leaks oil will dribble down the front of the engine and swell the water pump gasket and coolant will  appear from under the inlet manifold.  Bad news is, to reseal the cam cover is a specialist job as positioning the cam cover and re-sealing the cam chain covers (part of the process)  is critical.

Pray we don’t have that problem.

[merts123]

16 hours ago, Soot1e said:

60k miles.   AMD did a fine job as usual. I did have a stage 1 remap at the same time and enjoying the extra oomph  249bhp.  All the coil packs died within 3weeks and I replaced them, it’s a common problem following a remap but no problems since. A bonus with the remap is I now see 32mpg on long runs which is up about 3mpg from before the remap, not much but has to be expected with 4wd.   
Keep a regular check of the cam cover seal at the front above the water pump. If it leaks oil will dribble down the front of the engine and swell the water pump gasket and coolant will  appear from under the inlet manifold.  Bad news is, to reseal the cam cover is a specialist job as positioning the cam cover and re-sealing the cam chain covers (part of the process)  is critical.

Pray we don’t have that problem.

 Yes i have seen that, I shall be keeping my eyes peeled, thanks.

I have been quite busy since i got the car but i had to pop the bonnet for the first time yesterday as the cooling light came on. Low level in coolant pot, topped it up but i shall be wary of it now as the pump may be leaking. problem is is hasn't stopped raining for weeks and i haven't been able to spot an obvious leak. 

The stage 1 remap is good isn't it! 

I have a lot of noise coming from the front of the engine that i am sure wasnt there when i bought it. From what i can see on the interweb its coming from the injectors. i'll be looking ito that too. 

Sounds like this - 

 

[Soot1e]

Sounds very loud to me. Hydraulic valve gear or cam lobes/bearing caps? Difficult to tell on a video.

[kton200281]

11 hours ago, merts123 said:

 Yes i have seen that, I shall be keeping my eyes peeled, thanks.

I have been quite busy since i got the car but i had to pop the bonnet for the first time yesterday as the cooling light came on. Low level in coolant pot, topped it up but i shall be wary of it now as the pump may be leaking. problem is is hasn't stopped raining for weeks and i haven't been able to spot an obvious leak. 

The stage 1 remap is good isn't it! 

I have a lot of noise coming from the front of the engine that i am sure wasnt there when i bought it. From what i can see on the interweb its coming from the injectors. i'll be looking ito that too. 

Sounds like this - 

 

Sounds just the same as mine, 2010 vrs. Nothing unusual about the Injectors and tappets being that loud, just the way they are. I'm just hoping to find a resolution to the slight shake at idle that happens sometimes, no change in rpm, just a bit of a misfire type feeling thru the seat and car. Has done it for 4 years though so not sure I'll ever get to the bottom of it, 

[bigjohn]

26 minutes ago, kton200281 said:

Sounds just the same as mine, 2010 vrs. Nothing unusual about the Injectors and tappets being that loud, just the way they are. I'm just hoping to find a resolution to the slight shake at idle that happens sometimes, no change in rpm, just a bit of a misfire type feeling thru the seat and car. Has done it for 4 years though so not sure I'll ever get to the bottom of it, 

 

Coil pack or plug? - Usually even if a coil pack is breaking down the engine management still seems to maintain the tickover speed.

Edited 29 January, 2020 by bigjohn

[Freestayl]

This sounds like mine, but in my case, the problem is in high pressure fuel pump. Have you checked that?

[Blue-Eyes]

You can add my car as well.

Skoda Octavia 1.8TSI 160HP CDAA. 158,000 KM.

Very Very Very high oil consumtion. Probably the engine will go down soon.

On 17/02/2013 at 23:22, DGW said:

CDAA = 118KW 160HP 1.8TSI