26 minutes ago, Berisford said:

Very impressive - I drive my 280 like a saint and can only get 40mpg.........

its brilliant on a steady cruise on the motorway (sticking to the limits) but still pretty poor everywhere else, non motorway use is usually around 30mpg or under.

40is the best for me too. Must remember to take out the entire interior and inflate tyres to 50psi for my next run.

Glad you’re enjoying @travo

8 hours ago, travo said:

Had my 2020 Superb 272 hatch for 5 months now, now I'm (sort of) over the initial constant desire to take it for random blasts (average of 27mpg over 3.5k miles) I have been pretty impressed with the mpg on my twice weekly commute on the m3/m25, I'm constantly managing over 50mpg whilst on the motorway, which has blown my mind, although by the time I've got through the current traffic coming onto the A3 and booted it a couple of times it'll be down into the low 40's

272 has the 7 speed DSG I think which will help on the motorway / dual carriageway. I've never bettered 40mpg in my 6 speed 280 on a run.

On 13/04/2023 at 11:41, KeteCantek said:

30k on mine now, 2016 car.... 

I discovered mine is consuming a bit of oil too, estimate about 3-500ml per 5k miles.

Hello.

I need to top up 1 liter of oil each 4000 km [2500 miles] (Total 5w40 VW502/505), odo 230 000 km [140 000 miles], 2016 car.

Can i try some different viscosity?

Thanks

That is a bit high as consumption goes ... you could try a 10W-40 but I am not very convinced, so take it as a possible option.

About fuel, mine on stop-and-go city traffic is also very high on consumption. Luckily so far I swap with another more economical vehicle, but I am actually toying with the idea to go LPG once warranty is out this year.

I will make inquiries ...

Time for summer rubber ... I first round of inquiries show some brands/models I have not practical experience with. Any opinions?

Lower on the pricing scale for a 95 load index are

BFGOODRICH ADVANTAGE 2 225/50 R18 95V FR

FIRESTONE ROADHAWK 2 225/50 R18 95W

Mid price

CONTINENTAL UltraContact 225/50 R18 95W FR

And higher up the rest of the crowd

PIRELLI P7 CINTURATO 225/50 R18 95W RFT (K1)

CONTINENTAL PremiumContact 6 225/50 R18 95W SSR

MICHELIN PRIMACY 4 225/50 R18 95V FR ZP

GOODYEAR EAGLE F1 ASYMM 3 225/50 R18 95W FR BMW RFT

There are also '99'load index but I am afraid these are mostly for suv and thus hard and heavy.

I will be running in 225/50-18 (discussed in other posts).

I would prefer to avoid runflats because of "harsh" experience, but might not have a choice.

I've asked for other options.

Use: long, relatevely 'brisky' journeys, not to much city, highway or extraurban roads, surface sometimes great, sometimes the Moon .... 🫣

Thanks!

I’d def avoid runflats just because I’ve never heard anyone ever say anything good about them.

Otherwise, you’re likely to get a mix of opinions across pretty much every brand.

There’s the old adage: “Quick, Cheap, Good - pick 2.”

Probably a bit like that but with: grippy, economical, quiet. (Removing price from the equation).

Speed rating can also effect structure like load rating having a knock-on effect on sound and price.

I've managed 28mpg average over the last 20k miles in my 2017 280 but last week I actually tried hard on a run from Cornwall to Gatwick and back in a day......42.9mpg....589 miles and computer still giving a range of 60 miles.

Sorry for posting a "service" issue here but it may be 280 specific?

Just had my 1st service at 16 months from purchase as the car was set to flexible.

I requested it be kept this way but I've noticed the car is now stating the next oil change is due in 440 days?

Two days later its down to 438 so I reset it myself this time "with VCDS" and it went back to 440 days,

Should it not be 730 days initially before the car computes it needs to be lower etc? or is this what the 280 engine is supposed to be? even then why did I get about 500 days the first time?

Or is the car not set to flexible now? Not sure how I can see this on the laptop/VCDS

Thanks in advane

10 minutes ago, Tankdave said:

Sorry for posting a "service" issue here but it may be 280 specific?

Just had my 1st service at 16 months from purchase as the car was set to flexible.

I requested it be kept this way but I've noticed the car is now stating the next oil change is due in 440 days?

Two days later its down to 438 so I reset it myself this time "with VCDS" and it went back to 440 days,

Should it not be 730 days initially before the car computes it needs to be lower etc? or is this what the 280 engine is supposed to be? even then why did I get about 500 days the first time?

Or is the car not set to flexible now? Not sure how I can see this on the laptop/VCDS

Thanks in advane

Technically, you can set the system to show whatever interval you choose. You can even match the oil and inspection service to the exact same timeline so they both come up together.

But I absolutely would not be running any engine that long between oil services. I have mine on fixed and, and it has had 6 month oil changes since I bought it. By that, I mean, it gets fresh oil and filter every 4k or so.

Today my Superb got schooled by VW Touran 2.0TDI when tried to overtake him, he started accelerating and got away in black smoke... Sleeper indeed.

19 minutes ago, palad1n said:

Today my Superb got schooled by VW Touran 2.0TDI when tried to overtake him, he started accelerating and got away in black smoke... Sleeper indeed.

Ouch - but that’s the point of sleepers I suppose. Diesel remaps can achieve mountains of torque and you don’t need to change down to press on.

until the moment it exploooooods 😁😆

On 28/03/2025 at 12:52, travo said:

non motorway use is usually around 30mpg or under

I LOVE to see 30avg on mine… closer to 20 unfortunately.

Just to say hi and sorry for owning the crowd lots of updates ... been buried in work and other tasks that have kept me away from here, and the Superb as well, I might add ☹️

Lack of time means also lack of preventative maintenance I wanted to so bef the summer holidays like the coolant which has a orange/brownish color so I think is time it goes, although I cannot understand if it is G12, evo, or G13 ....

Also I want to drop the Haldex pump and this time check the strainer, as I do not trust the dealer... the coolant also I prefer do it myself, unfortunately I might not be able to do this in the next two weeks before the holidays, but will have to be afterwards ....

I promise photos, soon! 😁

2 hours ago, leolito said:

Also I want to drop the Haldex pump and this time check the strainer, as I do not trust the dealer...

I don't think its a case of trusting the dealer or not, I think the point is dealers don't have that stage in the process. It tends to be VAG specialists that have identified that and will do it (and sometimes provide before and after pics too). In the grander scheme of things, I'd say don't bother with dealer unless you're maintaining a warranty and even then I think there is a split between "servicing" and "maintenance" and dealers just have to undertake the annual servicing, they don't have to do the further maintenance jobs.

I think @Ootohere is the specialist for these aspects and will put me right if I've missed the point...

Dealership sadly can change ownership and management and the good staff, technician and master tech. There is a Skoda Approved Repairer in the North East of Scotland that is pure dead brilliant. Family owned not part of a group. People travel from quite some distance to go to there ignoring places much nearer to them. I hope they can continue as they are. Skoda / VW are just incompetent in overseeing the aftesales and serving and maintenance. And training. Maybe AI will improve the knowledge of staff in dealerships. It could not get worse than it is in many dealerships.

Edited 4 July, 20254 Jul by Ootohere

Rainworth Skoda remove the pump and clean the gauze.

They record that the pump was removed on the service invoice and will photograph the state of the pump for you.

Had mine done there several times when I had Yeti's.

Edited 4 July, 20254 Jul by logiclee

Yeah, I think I did not express myself well. True maybe the "pure service list" does not call for removal of the component and proper clean up, but from a professional standpoint - especially for a known weak point - would be appreciated to have the approach mentioned by logiclee above.

Certainly is left to the people of the dealers' themselves, which is a pity in itself.

In any case I have known about cars out of warrantly shown neglect, which means even the basic procedures were not attended to, and from this point of view I am "happy" I got one more year of having to be enslaved to an official dealership .... this reminds me of making a list of things ... or perhaps not 😁

On 04/07/2025 at 10:38, travs said:

I don't think its a case of trusting the dealer or not, I think the point is dealers don't have that stage in the process. It tends to be VAG specialists that have identified that and will do it (and sometimes provide before and after pics too). In the grander scheme of things, I'd say don't bother with dealer unless you're maintaining a warranty and even then I think there is a split between "servicing" and "maintenance" and dealers just have to undertake the annual servicing, they don't have to do the further maintenance jobs.

I think @Ootohere is the specialist for these aspects and will put me right if I've missed the point...

Different dealers do different things, to different standards. Some dealers are horrific, while others are actually alright.

I swore I'd never go to a main dealer again, but found myself at Skoda in the New Forest earlier in the year (it was warranty stuff, sort of). I went with someone else to do my DSG/VAQ service (The Phirm in Camberley), howeve Brockenhurst Skoda were on it with regards to the DSG filter and cleaning the Haldex pump gauze when I asked them for a quote. They're part of Meadens Group (Bournemouth, etc) but are very small.

As above I wouldn't bother with a main dealer, but I have had to spend a good few hours finding a good Indie. If you want to start somewhere, https://dsg-doctor.bg/ is a good place to start.

On 15/03/2025 at 10:54, Just said:

Fault codes I'm getting are:

Gateway U011400 Lost communication with four wheel drive clutch control module - Static

Brakes U112100 Databus missing - Static

Engine U112300 Databus error value received - Static

ACC U112300 Databus error value received - Static

ACC U112200 Databus implausible message - Static

The only other error is:

Central Electrics B126301 - Trunk lid unlock activation - Intermittent

Hi, I like to give an update when I get to the bottom of an issue in case it's of use to anyone else.

The intermittent issue I've been having was resolved after referring to a Golf R 7.5 forum where it was suggested that a common issue is the Haldex controller becoming damaged by water ingress, and a repair service being offered by Haldex Repairs UK.

Sure enough, after I'd started off by replacing ABS wheel sensors (cheap and very easily done) but that didn't work, I carefully removed the Haldex controller, 2 10mm bolts (also T30 torx), the bottom one a little tricky due to proximity to the propshaft. 2 electrical connectors at the top with the traditional VW push clip setup. Sent it off by post Friday afternoon, received back repaired Tuesday morning, fitted it today and fingers crossed all the warnings have gone 😄

If anyone else is doing this on the drive, the smaller cable connector, which I think goes to the Haldex pump, has 2 wires covered in braid which has disintegrated on mine and turns to dust which falls directly into your eyes! So best to wear goggles - I re-covered the wires with loom tape, not sure if it gets hot up there - it's miles away from the exhaust, but something has led to the braid disintegrating.

My fellow 280s, I am ashamed to be unable to find the proper time to udate you guys on my whereabouts, but more about the car itself, which continues to tick all the needs in the list! I also have had little for it as well ....

As per previous discussions, I guess by summer's end I will be around the 55k km mark, I wish I could have replaced the coolant earlier but that this year is packed with priority issues that need resolution.... I got from a disgruntled customer a full load of 6lt of Dynamax G13, looks purplish. My car I cannot guess what the heck is it, looks darkish red/browninsh. I want to get rid of it.

Are you aware G13 is compatible backwards or I need a very very very dedicated flush instead of a "normal" flush - meaning difference between making one water load and spending the entire day at it ...

Anything else besides the coolant that I should buy?

I am planning also to take down the Haldex pump and check the strainer, I will buy the necessary kit.

DSG will wait until 60k, or when I have time after the summer.

When I changed to summer tires - must show pics - I've noticed the rear left inner pad was down to like ~1mm hard to measure, because I did not take it out, but I sense is not a lot. The outer one was more, and right hand caliper similar situation. I will not take chances and replace them.

Travs, guys, options for rear calipers? I prefer less brake dust, I do not mind soft compound rather wear them and replace em, than leaving 'em to harden and cristallize/crack.

Waiting so I can make some order. Thanks!

Hi @leolito Judging by your mileage your car is newer than 2018. If that's the case you should use G12evo coolant which is actually newer generation compared to G13. AFAIK G12evo is backwards compatible so you can use it in cars older than 2018.

Unfortunately I don't know if using G13 in post-2018 car would do any harm or not.

Thanks Setesh, mine is '21 indeed, but it does not say anywhere what type of coolant has been used.

I see this stash of G13 will have to go elsewhere 😁 and will look for G12evo then.

Thanks for the heads' up ...

@leolito - do not mix G12 and G13!

They have very different coolant properties and very different service intervals for flushing.

G13 is dependent on the Silka to keep it in "good" condition, allowing it to last longer between flushes.

G12 does not dependent on silka, however requires more frequent flushing.