So the engine warning lights have come up on the dash and I've scanned the car with the Carista app.  Amongst others, the main fault was this:

 

ECU info obtained with Carista 2.5.1 for Android:

Engine
Part #: 03L906022GB
Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000
Coding: 72 (decimal)
Fault codes:
P2103 Throttle Actuator Control Motor, Circuit High
P2102 Throttle Actuator Control Motor, Circuit Low

 

I've read that the above codes are actually referring to the EGR valve in the inlet.  Can anyone point me in the right direction to fix this and is it a straightforward part swap?

 

I've attached a couple of photos for reference - am I looking in the right place?  Also, where is the oil coming from (or is it just overspill from the dipstick??)

 

Thanks in advance.

That's the maf sensor, had mine done couple years back. The EGR is on the the other side, beside the turbo area I think.

Hmm OK.  I won't get this repaired over Christmas, so despite the fault lights is it safe to drive long distance on this for the while?  Both engine lights are on now with the spiral one flashing constantly.

 

Can anyone help me identify what part I need to look for - what does the throttle actuator control motor look like?

Egr is above the ASV isnt it? Its a right fiddly job getting them off.

 

Id start by removing the ASV and the throttle body and giving it a good clean,i used petrol and a toothbrush. I did it as it looked like yours,very oily around it.also change the gasket.

 

Good luck,easy job just very fiddly.

That's the maf sensor, had mine done couple years back. The EGR is on the the other side, beside the turbo area I think.

 

MAF??? Thats inline with air filter.I think your confused with the PD engine.This is a Cr170

Edited 23 December, 201510 yr by vrsRo55

Egr is above the ASV isnt it? Its a right fiddly job getting them off.

 

Id start by removing the ASV and the throttle body and giving it a good clean,i used petrol and a toothbrush. I did it as it looked like yours,very oily around it.also change the gasket.

 

Good luck,easy job just very fiddly.

So I am looking the right place?  Is it the EGR valve or ASV (what is that? ) that causes the above faults?  Sorry I don't have access to a workshop manual...

 

Shall I just start by removing everything between the large hose and the manifold and giving it all a good clean?

 

Car has now gone into limp mode so it looks like I can only drag this out for so long.

MAF??? Thats inline with air filter.I think your confused with the PD engine.This is a Cr170

Mines is a CR engine and that's what I was told my fault was and the part in the picture was the part changed. Also the fault code that came up was also the code for the MAF sensor.

The egr on a pd engine is near the turbo...on the cr170 its at the front attached to the ASV anti shudder valve...its helps on shutdown of the car so it does'nt judder.

 

Im unsure of the code...but if the op wants to remove egr and asv its attached on the front like the pictures.

 

If you're in limp mode id probably get it looked at by a pro,as it could be either,so cleaning it is a gamble,and i would'nt like to be taking it off twice.

 

But if you have no choice,remove and clean.

Definitely got a shudder when the engine stops. Does this mean the ASV is at fault rather than EGR?

I've noticed oil in the plug in the ASV motor (assuming this is the lower of the two parts in the picture) which can't help. Also I've read on other VAG forums that the motor can jam as a consequence of a sticky valve causing damage to the gears inside it, does this sound plausible?

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Sounds like it. you need a new one me thinks.

The throttle body is the lower part of the two shown on the photo. Incidentally the throttle body or ASV does more than just shut the engine down. Without the valve the EGR can't work. A diesel doesn't produce manifold vacuum. The valve creates a depression in the manifold and draws the exhaust gas in.

Good explanation tech1e. I'll have a go at removing the ASV cleaning it thoroughly if needs be or getting a new one when I can. Just need to find the time

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With an electrical fault it's more than likely a new unit will be needed.

Fair comment.

 

I took the ASV off today, though, and found that it was very gunked up inside, lots of grease deposited on the flap and inner walls of the valve.  Also, when I took the cover off the motor, a significant amount of oil poured out.  That can't have been doing it any good, but I can't fathom how it got it there other than through the seals around the shaft of the flap.  This could indicate it's goosed and needs replacing.  I've cleaned it all up and sealed the motor cover on firmly in the hope it might give it a new lease of life.

 

In the process, I removed the EGR pipe from the side of the EGR valve.  The inlet on the valve body (which I assume is actuated) was filled solid with greasy/oily deposits.  I dug all this out too and will refit everything tomorrow. 

 

I suppose this is the affect of 140k miles worth of EGR...

Mine went at half them miles.

 

Good practice to get the EGR cleaned, too while it's off.

I haven't taken the EGR off yet just tried to clean it in situ. Looks a bugger to get off.

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Fair comment.

 

I took the ASV off today, though, and found that it was very gunked up inside, lots of grease deposited on the flap and inner walls of the valve.  Also, when I took the cover off the motor, a significant amount of oil poured out.  That can't have been doing it any good, but I can't fathom how it got it there other than through the seals around the shaft of the flap.  This could indicate it's goosed and needs replacing.  I've cleaned it all up and sealed the motor cover on firmly in the hope it might give it a new lease of life.

 

In the process, I removed the EGR pipe from the side of the EGR valve.  The inlet on the valve body (which I assume is actuated) was filled solid with greasy/oily deposits.  I dug all this out too and will refit everything tomorrow. 

 

I suppose this is the affect of 140k miles worth of EGR...

That's exactly what happens to mine, the oil in the motor part. When I unplugged mine oil came out there too. The mechanic couldn't answer why there was so much oil in there. Where is the EGR valve, I don't know where it is.

How did you get just the ASV off? i thought there was a long bolt that held them both together.the most awkward one at the back?

 

I removed them both and cleaned with petrol,then sprayed brake cleaner over them to remove the grease leftover.

I also removed the black cover and found it very clean,grease had gone hard so relubed.

I found reaching into the inlet with 2 fingers,i could scrape large chunks or gunk off.

 

The hardest thing was the fiddling,very poor design.

 

Ive just hit 110k

Edited 3 January, 201610 yr by vrsRo55

The egr on a pd engine is near the turbo...on the cr170 its at the front attached to the ASV anti shudder valve...its helps on shutdown of the car so it does'nt judder.

 

Im unsure of the code...but if the op wants to remove egr and asv its attached on the front like the pictures.

 

If you're in limp mode id probably get it looked at by a pro,as it could be either,so cleaning it is a gamble,and i would'nt like to be taking it off twice.

 

But if you have no choice,remove and clean.

The egr is on the front on the vrs pd exactly the same as in the ops pic .

Edited 3 January, 201610 yr by willy0329

The long one at the back was very awkward but once cracked using a knuckle joint and ratchet it wound out easily. The one by the EGR pipe was ok once the pipe was moved.

Anyway, two remaining easy bolts to take the EGR valve off this morning - it's pretty yucky!

And that's part cleaned in-situ

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Edited 3 January, 201610 yr by mrhappy

The long one at the back was very awkward but once cracked using a knuckle joint and ratchet it wound out easily. The one by the EGR pipe was ok once the pipe was moved.

Anyway, two remaining easy bolts to take the EGR valve off this morning - it's pretty yucky!

And that's part cleaned in-situ

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Mine was abit worse than that.i soaked it in petrol and came up a treat.

In the picture above,make sure with firm pressure you can push that plunger down.its that part that jams and causes a fault code.

So get some wd40 in there and free it up.

 

Good work. Horrible Job! especially with Big hands!

So I cleaned the EGR valve thoroughly and ensured the plunger moved smoothly which it did.  I took the cover off the actuator too, thankfully it was clean as a whistle inside.

 

Despite the rain and dark this afternoon I got it all reassembled and refitted.  Cleared the fault codes and did a test drive - car runs well and for a while no sign of a problem but just as a returned home the glow plug system light started flashing.

 

Re-scanned and the fault is now P2111 - Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Open.  So it seems there's no high/low voltage faults with the motor now, but the position sensor is reading open.  I'd be inclined to believe that it is telling the truth, since the car shudders when switching the engine off, so some part of the system isn't working as it should.  I guess I'll be buying a new one then!

 

Cue "I told you so"!! :p

I wonder if just the cover housing the electrics can be replaced as I can test the motor.  Can anyone provide me with part numbers of the throttle valve components please?

The throttle valve comes as a complete unit.

Yup I gather it does.  Part number is 03L 128 063 and from what I've read they're £200+ new from the dealers.  I found this though from DarksideDevelopments, which seems like a good price.

 

http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/vw-audi-2-0-16v-common-rail-cr-anti-shudder-valve-asv-03l-128-063-af.html