Skip to content

Dashcam wiring - Nextbase kit

Featured Replies

my guess would be to look at the manual at the fuses and pick one that should only have power when the car is on.  like the wipers, or heater (I do not own  a fabia so I cannot help you any more than this.

  • Replies 131
  • Views 42.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Most Popular Posts

  • It's a fairly straightforward job.   The next base kit comes with a piggyback fuse which will slot into an existing fuse slot and allow you to take power from it.   This is how I fitted mine:  

  • For the fuse just place the one that you remove into the empty slot on the piggyback fuse in the nextbase kit. The only thing to watch is to make sure to fit it with the wire coming out the bottom as

  • Just fitted mine following Flash's excellent guide. Took me about half an hour tops. Had to fully remove the fuse box right hand screw in order to get the wire through, but it fastened back

Posted Images

On 20/09/2017 at 14:30, RenzO said:

Hi, i have the dashcam viofo a119 what location should i place the fuse? I have to put a piggyback with a 5A? Thanks

I used the Electric windows and other electrics which I believe is fuse 30 but check your manual to be sure and I've had no issues.

  • 1 month later...

Hi,

 

Been trying to do the same with my Fabia. Read through the instructions and forum posts. But when I tried to do it with mine, I can't seem to get the cam to power on. I've tried unassigned fuses and piggy back ones. When I used piggy back fuses, the original electrical component would still work but not the cam. What is the explanation for this? Am I earthing the circuit inappropriately? Where is the best place to earth it?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

L

I fitted my nextbase last week 

Live came from piggyback on heater fan 

Earth came from the 13 socket that holds the dash in 

If you pop the side panel of the dashboard on the drivers side you will see the two bolts there 

Loosen off slide the fork connection behind hold in place while re tightening the bolt as it moves and pops off the earth 

Thanks!

 

Is that the only bolt that is accessible for earthing?  I've tried the screws on either side of the fuse box but I guess there's not enough metal contact to earth it??  Sorry for the ignorance, first time trying to do something like this.

 

Lawrence

No it's the 13mm bolts for the dashboard you need 

 

The screws only go into plastic 

Thanks again. One more question; what is the best way to open the side panel without damaging it?

It comes off quite easily. Lever from the edge away from the dash, it hinges at the edge nearest the windscreen. Preferably use something plastic to lever it open.

  • 2 months later...

Probably a silly question, but when you fit a dashcam this way, will this work with parking mode, and automatically get power from the battery even when the car is off?

Depends which fuse you piggy back 

If it's permanent live then yes if.not no

 

Never fancied permanent video yet as the car sits for up to a week sometimes without moving 

I know they are supposed to cut out when voltage drops but I don't want to take that chance 

 

 

Ahh I see.  I'm mainly interested in the parking mode more than anything else.  I may risk it when I get my Fabia in a couple weeks, and see how it goes.

  • 2 weeks later...

I have keyless go and cant find a fuse that switches off when im not using the car, anyone got any ideas? Im currently using the towing hitch slot.

I ended up piggybacking on the one for the heating and blower.

  • 2 months later...

I’ve recently changed my Fabia from a 2015 model to a 2018 model. I removed the hard wiring I had installed for my RoadHawk camera on the 2015 Fabia and transferred to the 2018 Fabia.

I had used a blank fuse slot (No26) using a blade fuse piggyback fuse tap, this worked fine on 2015 car, no issues at all.

This was not the case on the 2018 car, something has changed as on cranking the camera was shutting down momentarily and once the engine started was starting back up again. On a few occasions the camera never started at all, this was a risk as camera was not recording without me realizing.

Using a multimeter on slot No26 the 12v feed was dropping to a couple of volts on cranking. 

So I had to find a new feed that I could tap into. Using a multimeter again on the mini blade fuse slots (as the blade fuses had none suitable), I found a slot available that was suitable to piggyback off of (No34) which was live on cranking and live when stop/start kicks in, and of course live when the engine was running.

This has solved my problem, and luckily I had a new mini blade fuse Tap in my parts store.

I have included a picture of the fuse board under the steering wheel, red ring being the old fuse slot and green ring the new slot with fuse tap installed. 

All appears happy now, but just goes to show you that you sometimes can’t just plug and play from one model to the next.

 

16C96077-5D99-402C-96F7-C1A506A21725.jpeg

Quick question- in work and I’ve just noticed something. 

My Aukey dual camera is switching off and on- I think related to the stop-start, it switches off but doesn’t always switch back on... anyone have a thought about that? I’m guessing I’m piggybacked into the wrong fuse? 

Just fitted mine today (not nextbase). Couldn't figure out why it wasn't working as I had fitted it the same way as one of the pictures posted here. Turns out my cable need to be pointing upwards not down :D

20180425_140805.jpg

Nuisance the 12 v lighter socket being permanently live. My seat Mii switched off with the engine so I just left my Next Base plugged in.

 

However one of these little fella's is what I got.https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XCHGeek+Cup.TRS0&_nkw=CHGeek+Cup&_sacat=0 .

 

You can leave it plugged in ans both 12v sockets are individually swiched on/off. You get two extra USB sockets to boot.

On 25/04/2018 at 14:25, steslatt said:

Just fitted mine today (not nextbase). Couldn't figure out why it wasn't working as I had fitted it the same way as one of the pictures posted here. Turns out my cable need to be pointing upwards not down :D

20180425_140805.jpg

Are you using one or two fuses in the tap? If there is no fuse in slot used on fuse board (blank slot with only one terminal visible) to get the wire pointing downwards you will need two fuses. This is fine as the fuses are in series with each other and each rated individually so no increase with blow rate. To have the wire pointing up usually just uses one fuse slot in the tap (when the fuse slot on fuse board has only one terminal). I needed mine pointing down (as per my picture in previous post), to enable to point the cable in the correct direction for my fitment. 

If using a “used fuse slot” (two terminals in fuse slot on fuse board) I believe the fuse tap needs to be installed with the wire pointing down to get the correct flow through the fuse tap, and then allow the original fuse to function correctly. 

I hope that makes some sense. 

Edited by Pumatron

Ahhh I see, yes I'm using just the one fuse in position 34 which was unused on my box.

  • 5 months later...

Just installed my Nextbase hardwire kit and cam.

 

Dopey brain here pulled the 10A (No 29) air bag fuse, now I get a warning. Luckily I have a VCDS on the way that should be able to clear the error.

 

Cam works brilliantly though! :)

  • 1 month later...

Just wanted to say many thanks to the original posting for the explanation and photos - very helpful, made the job very straight forward. Nextbase dash cams seem to have mounts with the camera suspend below the mount,  the other half wasn't comfortable with the dashcam mounted around the rear view mirror so I've mounted it up against the nearside 'A' Pillar in this position it doesn't obstruct forward vision, although the camera's view of the road is not so good. This made routing the cable quite easy, just  squeeze it down between A pillar covers and dashboard edge, push it down in the gap between front of dash and windscreen.

  • 3 months later...

Do you use a numbered fuse (ignition controlled) as I see no mention of a fuse number.

Very good explanation though, thank you.

On 07/07/2016 at 12:54, TheFlash said:

Yeah your fusebox should look identical.

 

You can use the second fuse slot in on the second row of mini fuses. I added a better picture further down the thread with an arrow on for a bit of clarification.

 

I would recommend using the fuse for the airbag, which i believe is fuse in position 29. Works fine for mine.

 

image.png.663da8362d18a01a42065ce7d9e3ca4a.png

 

image.png.f4db2695a54907ef9c03677a3e8d3ede.png

  • 4 weeks later...
On 26/05/2016 at 15:46, jjwinston said:

I just use it with the included 12V socket which i plug in and out when i need it on! Works well for me.

 

Have you still routed the cable neatly? how do you get the transformer/plug to the socket?

  • 2 months later...

Just thought I'd add some info to this thread after I fitted mine. I didn't fancy pulling off the weather strip unless I had to, so after checking I pulled on the trim on the a pillar and it popped off enough to get the cable down without any hassle. Went back on easy enough too as long as you're careful. I used fuse slot 34 as mentioned above. It's for the heated seats on mine, and doesn't seem to have a ground pin in the fuse box. I used the bolt and two washers with the spade terminal squished between to ground.

 

I routed the cable from the fuse box to behind the dash via a tiny hole I found, just big enough for the cable and it even has a little channel for it to sit in! (see photos)

 

Some photos of inside the pillar and of the clips. Is two of them, doesn't require too much force to pop them off just make sure they're aligned in place before you put in back. I used some self adhesive cable clips to keep the cable routed neatly against the plastic trim out the way.

IMG_20190813_121303.thumb.jpg.026b4fcfc7b49866e07f234571085f14.jpg

 

IMG_20190813_121256.thumb.jpg.66d8224ebb7af6559697c4c2888391f6.jpg

 

911603125_Annotation2019-08-13203009.png.fe63879d98c256024838bf98b0cec5da.png

 

Hope that helps anyone else who tries, whole thing took about 15 minutes and that's with cable tidying and sticking the transformer in a nice clear spot out the way.

 

Only thing I need to figure out now is the head liner... on mine its stuck down and won't budge near the rear view mirror. Think its because its some kind of active mirror that detects headlights and auto dims so that whole area is glued or something!

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.