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Coffee incident..


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Hiya

So with a sad face I have to say I was nearly involved in an accident this morning as some prat in a Gold R decided he wanted to come off at the next junction and veered across all 4 lanes causing everyone to slam on.

The force tipped my morning brew over and half the contnets spilt on the floor and worst of the gear stick and the assist buttons.

Now the buttons do not work

They are

Parking sensors

Park assist

Boot release.

The green block lights are very dimm but interestingly when you so put the car in reverse the park sensor switch lights up orange as normal bit won't cancel.

When I pulled up at work and pressed the boot release button I thought all was well as the boot opened.. I closed as normal and it opened again and again and then eventually stopped.

Boot still opens with key and rear switch on the actual boot.

I think they are defo not going to work after a fair amount of coffee went in them.

The individual buttons I have found for around £15.99 each but I assume there is a PCB or something underneath.. Not sure.

Not even sure how to remove the buttons without damaging them to inspect.

Has anyone got a clue what to do?

What is this parts actual name?

Otherwise it's a trip to the Skoda specialist and wince at the bill which I get won't be cheap.

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STRIP CLEAN INSPECT FIRST :nerd: 

On mine (DSG) it was really easy to strip the whole area that would be wet with liquid...

Mines was stripped as I let a SD card fall down the cup holder cover thing..

It might be that you just need to dry and clean the switches with electrical solvent cleaner (any Maplins).  would try this first before ordering switches..

The switches just pull out of the holder use something like a plastic knife to get to the blank button closest to you  and furthest down then pry the blank up.

Once this is done you can get your fingers in and pop the other 3 out from there..
Hopefully you wont need to go this much trouble below :sweat:  
IMG_20160615_180856_zpsdimgy7bv.jpg

supersnail great constructive and helpful post 
Keep them coming :nerd:
 
In fact thinking further and looking at the pic.. Zenbasses you might be able to just remove the sidepanels by gripping at the bottom and pulling firmly outwards to get to the plug connections and release from there and push them out..

Edited by DEL80Y
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In fact thinking further and looking at the pic.. Zenbasses you might be able to just remove the sidepanels by gripping at the bottom and pulling firmly outwards to get to the plug connections and release from there and push them 

 

I think you're right on that and the cleaning Del8oy - the pic below (from ebay) shows the back of the button panel. It looks like that whole panel should just lift up using a pry tool (you can see the push clips at each corner) and then the buttons can have their clips pinched and be pushed out for cleaning. 

 

I had the same "coffee accident" in a previous car (lost the hazard and CL switches) and the cleaning worked.  

 

*** Edited comment after seeing apology by supersnail ****

 

$_57.JPG

Edited by TheRobinK
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Hiya All,

 

I will give this a go, doesn't seem to fiddly and the pics provided makes it a lot clearer.  :notme:

 

I have some switch cleaner at home that I use to keep my Electric Bass's and Amps potentiometers in good working order, I'll check to see if its solvent based if not I'll pop to Maplins in Leeds on my way home from work.

 

Wheather or not its a bit dim to have a warm drink on a cold morning going to work in a good quality travel mug held in the (as metioned) standard fit cupholders is a matter of personal opinion, cutting across 4 lanes at 80mph infront of other motorist doing their daily commute just because they were going to miss their exit is in any situation, is deplorable.

 

Many Thanks, I'll see how it goes....cross fingers

Edited by Zenbasses
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So

I managed to remove the whole gear stick surround and get to the switches.. They had a covering of a green looking film over what I think are resistors or capacitors.. I've cleaned them off with switch cleaner and then left in unconnected for a fair while from the block connectors.

No visible signs of dampness so I plugged them back in and.. Still the same

I am no electrician but I got out my handy multi meter and tested the block connectors and they are fine the switches are unfortunately knackered.

I am assuming something shorted?... Not sure what the greenish film was but it looked like oxidised copper..

I feel new switches are needed :(..

Can anyone direct me to these.. The ones I found on eBay are for the MK1 (eBay code 252596831140)...

Any help would be great :)

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Zenbasses I owe you an apology for my comment, I misunderstood your original post and thought you drinking and driving at the same time. Ihope everything is OK with the car. By the way I managed to tip entire cafetier into my lap from the dash of my truck that took a lot of clearing up too,again I apologise,Pete.

 

Nice one. Have removed my earlier comment. Any one of us can make a mistake - its the good among us who apologise.  :clap:

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Zenbasses I owe you an apology for my comment, I misunderstood your original post and thought you drinking and driving at the same time. Ihope everything is OK with the car. By the way I managed to tip entire cafetier into my lap from the dash of my truck that took a lot of clearing up too,again I apologise,Pete.

I always use a straw when drinking from my bottle of wine as I drive - its much safer  :notme:

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after my kids borrowed a car of mine ,  the drivers window wouldn't' go back up and the electrics were generally "haunted", it was a new and was under warranty it went back to dealers, they had it for 2 weeks and couldn't figure out what was up, eventually they had to change main switch unit in door and that sorted it. Some years later  my lad admitted that when he was camping he fell  asleep in the car and his can of cider had emptied into the switch unit

Edited by terrytowelling
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Zenbasses I owe you an apology for my comment, I misunderstood your original post and thought you drinking and driving at the same time. Ihope everything is OK with the car. By the way I managed to tip entire cafetier into my lap from the dash of my truck that took a lot of clearing up too,again I apologise,Pete.

Apology accepted :).... We all sometimes say things and in hindsight they might not have come across in the way we first intended.... No worries I don't bare grudges.life is too short.. *High Five*.

I'm going to another go of dismantling the gearbox trim and leave them out for a few days.. I'll have to figure a way of stopping the block connectors from falling into the gap left.. Gaffer tape should do it.

I'll take a pic but these switches look to be generic as in they are not designed for a special function as all of them look the same and crucial all have orange LEDs on them and we know the boot release doesn't like up orange (or maybe they should??)

The block connectors > wire loom via ecu's I guess does the job.

If they do need to be replaced I am wondering if vw passat ones could be used as they seem more readily available.

It's fiddly tho or get the trim off without damaging the plastics as I couldn't do this without using a few plastic knives..

One day I'll get round to buying a trim removal tool.

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The black rubber spots with the 's' through them are the switch contacts - give them a good clean up with contact cleaner (I usually use isopropanol). If there's any gunk stuck to them it'll short across and cause weirdness.

 

As an aside, this fix works great for TV remotes that are acting the maggot!

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Thank you I shall have a go later on I have some solvent switch cleaner and some cotton ear buds lined up for the job.

On a lighter note motorhog have just come back to me few mins ago.. They have found the 3 switches still attached to an L&K model..

Quoted me £25+Vat for the set... I can remove and test before paying .

It's another option.. Though even if these work I might buy them anyway for spares.

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I am looking for a switch to add in there to switch on rear passengers interior lights.

Mine don't go on with the front one as it has a panoramic roof. I keep needing to open the front door to switch on all lights which is becoming tiresome :devil:

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Any chance for a "toggle switch" version ?

I need it for my camera so I can leave it ON when shopping. Of course I know it needs to be directly connected to the battery - it's just need to have ON and OFF positions.

Edited by jafo
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  • 2 weeks later...

So the latest and last update is I went from the switches from Motorhog in Doncaster... Cost me £27.00 in the end. Fitted in less than 5mins and I 3 working switches again.

I've jusg spent £25 on a fancy leak proof self sealing mug as I spend most of my trip to work in traffic I don't want to go without my morning brew as once I get into work I rarely have time to grab one.

But at least any liquid is contained safely now. :)..

Alls well that ends well.

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I've jusg spent £25 on a fancy leak proof self sealing mug as I spend most of my trip to work in traffic I don't want to go without my morning brew as once I get into work I rarely have time to grab one.

But at least any liquid is contained safely now. :)..

 

 

Great to hear all is welll.

 

Now - we need to see the mug - you cant keep this important piece of kit to yourself!   :coffee:

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