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Modifying Your Fabia MK III


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So i had a few talks and heres the deal, New intercooler and new hoses, they are going to block the manifold watercooler with a plate, all legit and proven that is safe (i have a photo for that, it's not mine to own it).

New turbo from the 1.4 and they are going to make it hybrid with a few bits and pieces (solid work and the engine 1.2L can make up to 270bhp if you are crazy, im looking around 200bhp for the track)

New downpipe and we can talk about resonate, i use it as a daily some times (track car life) new brakes from PB brakes and the color is amazing (i have a photo for that, it's not mine to own it) also i have todays video testing alghout it's raining and we tested the old suspension just to have a feel for it (blu power coilover very cheap 250 something like that but they are not great they are chinese).

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8 hours ago, FabiaGonzales said:

For the rear beam, you could go powerflex on the large pivot bushes there too, itll stiffen it up alot and make it easier to feel what the back end is doing but it might actually introduce oversteer sooner but itll be more controllable (the stock bushes have a little flex and they give a bit of rear wheel steering which actually helps to keep the wheels planted longer but may snap out more violently when it does)

 

I have first hand experience of this.  My first track day was in the dry but I didn't push it too much because it was of course my first time, but my second track day I did in February was in the wet and had a tenancy to step out violently and send me sideways round a corner.  I also then experienced this again in the snow in March this year.  Videos below:

 

2nd track day sideways moments:  https://streamable.com/rpfv5s

 

Snow sideways moment:  https://streamable.com/9gyzsy

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16 minutes ago, TheFozzy said:

I have first hand experience of this.  My first track day was in the dry but I didn't push it too much because it was of course my first time, but my second track day I did in February was in the wet and had a tenancy to step out violently and send me sideways round a corner.  I also then experienced this again in the snow in March this year.  Videos below:

 

2nd track day sideways moments:  https://streamable.com/rpfv5s

 

Snow sideways moment:  https://streamable.com/9gyzsy

 I used to do karting and my family is in rallying but i prefer the track much safer there hahaha but i can feel you !!!

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1 hour ago, TheFozzy said:

I have first hand experience of this.  My first track day was in the dry but I didn't push it too much because it was of course my first time, but my second track day I did in February was in the wet and had a tenancy to step out violently and send me sideways round a corner.  I also then experienced this again in the snow in March this year.  Videos below:

 

2nd track day sideways moments:  https://streamable.com/rpfv5s

 

Snow sideways moment:  https://streamable.com/9gyzsy

 

The rear wheel steering from the stock bushes gives slightly better maximum steering angle possible by reducing the angle of slip of the rears, but when they do break free, the tension in the bushes is released and it can quite violently kick out.

Stiffer polybushes may actually slightly reduce the maximum steering angle by a slight amount, but it is possible to ride the line of the tyres grip and it is much more predictable. Of course though, it also has a side effect of making the rear suspension slightly harsher, but for a track car that's no big deal.

 

1 hour ago, xensnow said:

So i had a few talks and heres the deal, New intercooler and new hoses, they are going to block the manifold watercooler with a plate, all legit and proven that is safe (i have a photo for that, it's not mine to own it).

New turbo from the 1.4 and they are going to make it hybrid with a few bits and pieces (solid work and the engine 1.2L can make up to 270bhp if you are crazy, im looking around 200bhp for the track)

New downpipe and we can talk about resonate, i use it as a daily some times (track car life) new brakes from PB brakes and the color is amazing (i have a photo for that, it's not mine to own it) also i have todays video testing alghout it's raining and we tested the old suspension just to have a feel for it (blu power coilover very cheap 250 something like that but they are not great they are chinese).

 

I see, the water-cooled intercooler is a core which fits into that manifold from the front, so long as it's getting cooled from something (front mount i'd assume) then there shouldn't be any issue. The watercooled one is fine for up to 200 though, even more than that if were to seperate its coolant from the rest of the system.

I know a few guys with big-block LS chevies which have watercooled intercoolers between the turbo/supercharger and intake manifold. They generally make for cleaner installs as they often put the radiator for that somewhere under the rear bumper with coolant lines running behind heatshielding in the centre tunnel. Those things with big enough turbos kick out 1500bhp.

 

Front mount intercooler adds more space that the turbo has to fill before it builds boost, increasing lag.

 

Going beyond the hybrid turbo and beyond the 200 mark generally needs a bigger turbo still, that sacrifices much of the low-end torque in return for high-end power, and the lag increases somewhat too, combined with a front mount intercooler, you'll probably be nearing the rev limiter before boost decides to arrive.

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3 minutes ago, FabiaGonzales said:

 

The rear wheel steering from the stock bushes gives slightly better maximum steering angle possible by reducing the angle of slip of the rears, but when they do break free, the tension in the bushes is released and it can quite violently kick out.

Stiffer polybushes may actually slightly reduce the maximum steering angle by a slight amount, but it is possible to ride the line of the tyres grip and it is much more predictable. Of course though, it also has a side effect of making the rear suspension slightly harsher, but for a track car that's no big deal.

 

 

I see, the water-cooled intercooler is a core which fits into that manifold from the front, so long as it's getting cooled from something (front mount i'd assume) then there shouldn't be any issue. The watercooled one is fine for up to 200 though, even more than that if were to seperate its coolant from the rest of the system.

I know a few guys with big-block LS chevies which have watercooled intercoolers between the turbo/supercharger and intake manifold. They generally make for cleaner installs as they often put the radiator for that somewhere under the rear bumper with coolant lines running behind heatshielding in the centre tunnel. Those things with big enough turbos kick out 1500bhp.

 

Front mount intercooler adds more space that the turbo has to fill before it builds boost, increasing lag.

 

Going beyond the hybrid turbo and beyond the 200 mark generally needs a bigger turbo still, that sacrifices much of the low-end torque in return for high-end power, and the lag increases somewhat too, combined with a front mount intercooler, you'll probably be nearing the rev limiter before boost decides to arrive.

Hmmm i see, well i will keep you posted and we will see, thanks for the info and your help.

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4 hours ago, xensnow said:

Any ideas for quick shift - short shift for the 6speed manual ?

 

Forge make a quick shift adapter for the6 speed gearbox here: https://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/Audi_VW_SEAT_and_Skoda_6_Speed_Adjustable_Quick_Shifter--product--989.html

 

Progressive parts also have full kit here at a higher price point: https://progressiveparts.com/racingline-performance-short-shifter-6-speed-including-sideshift-vwr-vwr70g500

Edited by TheFozzy
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1 hour ago, TheFozzy said:

 

1 hour ago, xensnow said:

ohh great, thanks a lot 👍🏻


That kit is only listed as compatible with the 1.8T and 2.0T. The 02T is very similar design so idk why it would be any different but it's not listed so take it with a pinch of salt.

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1 hour ago, FabiaGonzales said:

 


That kit is only listed as compatible with the 1.8T and 2.0T. The 02T is very similar design so idk why it would be any different but it's not listed so take it with a pinch of salt.

sould i search it with our transmission code ?

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Hi guys, just a question here for anybody who is savvy with wheels. If any of you remember I purchased a set 2 years ago, but I'm looking for a change. Currently, the wheels are 17" in diameter, 8" wide and have an offset of 33. After inspecting it quickly they seem quite close to the suspension, the only reason I checked is because I'm looking at wheels with 16" in diameter, 9" wide and have an offset of 20 so I thought it might not fit properly. If anyone could help that would be massively appreciated, maths isn't my strong point lol!

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I thought I'd let everyone on here know just in case:

 

I am selling my 17" Team Dynamics Pro Race (Gloss black). The wheels have the same measurements as the Monte Carlo 17" wheels apart from the offset, the offset if 38 instead of 46 so the wheels sit closer to flush with the bodywork (lowered on Eibach springs and no rubbing at all). Wheels come with tyres and appropriate bolts and the whole package has been on the car for about 1 year and have done about 8k miles (bought them new). Only bad point is a small chip near the centre of one of the wheels (no idea how it got there!).

 

I will be putting them up for sale on eBay probably tomorrow evening but I thought I'd give everyone on here a chance to call "dibbs" just in case anyone is interested 😁

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1 hour ago, Lemto said:

Hi guys, just a question here for anybody who is savvy with wheels. If any of you remember I purchased a set 2 years ago, but I'm looking for a change. Currently, the wheels are 17" in diameter, 8" wide and have an offset of 33. After inspecting it quickly they seem quite close to the suspension, the only reason I checked is because I'm looking at wheels with 16" in diameter, 9" wide and have an offset of 20 so I thought it might not fit properly. If anyone could help that would be massively appreciated, maths isn't my strong point lol!

 

The inside of the wheels will be 1mm closer to the suspension no problem there, while the outside edge will be an inch (25mm) further out vs the 8J ET33, and a full two inches (51mm) vs the stock 7J ET46. Your scrub radius will also increase by an additional 12.5mm, for a total of 25mm more scrub radius than stock. You'd want to be looking at 255/35 or 265/30 tyres.

 

I can see 9J wheels being a bit tough to fit. They'll probably poke out from under the arch, and you might run into rubbing issues.

 

1 hour ago, Fab1493 said:

I thought I'd let everyone on here know just in case:

 

I am selling my 17" Team Dynamics Pro Race (Gloss black). The wheels have the same measurements as the Monte Carlo 17" wheels apart from the offset, the offset if 38 instead of 46 so the wheels sit closer to flush with the bodywork (lowered on Eibach springs and no rubbing at all). Wheels come with tyres and appropriate bolts and the whole package has been on the car for about 1 year and have done about 8k miles (bought them new). Only bad point is a small chip near the centre of one of the wheels (no idea how it got there!).

 

I will be putting them up for sale on eBay probably tomorrow evening but I thought I'd give everyone on here a chance to call "dibbs" just in case anyone is interested 😁

 

I'll add to that, i've got a set of 16" black SEL alloys on gumtree, damn things just won't shift. Not looking for much either 😕 they're currently providing as fricken huge paperweights to stop the kitchen carpet blowing away, cos that's something that'd definitely happen lmao

Edited by FabiaGonzales
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5 minutes ago, FabiaGonzales said:

 

The inside of the wheels will be 1mm closer to the suspension no problem there, while the outside edge will be an inch (25mm) further out vs the 8J ET33, and a full two inches (51mm) vs the stock 7J ET46. Your scrub radius will also increase by an additional 12.5mm, for a total of 25mm more scrub radius than stock. You'd want to be looking at 255/35 or 265/30 tyres.

 

I can see 9J wheels being a bit tough to fit. They'll probably poke out from under the arch, and you might run into rubbing issues.

 

 

I'll add to that, i've got a set of 16" black SEL alloys on gumtree, damn things just won't shift. Not looking for much either 😕 they're currently providing as fricken huge paperweights to stop the kitchen carpet blowing away, cos that's something that'd definitely happen lmao

 

You're a legend mate. I think I had already confirmed the 8J, but your comment has reinforced a little bit more confidence. The recommendations for tyres are brilliant too, thank you for including that. Hopefully have a picture up of the new wheels soon!

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10 minutes ago, Lemto said:

 

You're a legend mate. I think I had already confirmed the 8J, but your comment has reinforced a little bit more confidence. The recommendations for tyres are brilliant too, thank you for including that. Hopefully have a picture up of the new wheels soon!

 

The minimum width tyre you can put on there is a 235, probably in /35 but /40 would be ok (it's still less than 5% larger than stock), they'd be a bit of a stretch but might provide better handling as the it wouldn't have much lateral flex. Recommended is 255-265, they'd give more grip with more rubber being on the road, and better ride comfort at the expense of slightly more lateral flex.

The slimmer tyres also have a tad less chance of rubbing, as it takes the edge off the total shape of the wheel, kinda hard to describe

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Finished my first attempt at creating a 2 colour badge. I ordered a used front badge off eBay which had no adhesive pad on the back. Carefully I unclipped the chrome parts from the backing, which is difficult because the clips are brittle.

Once dismantled all parts were sanded with 800 grit paper. The chrome is tough and only just managed to dull it sanding.

The chrome parts were then acid etch primed, painted with 3 coats of black magic and 3 coats of lacquer. 

The centre was plastic primed and painted with 3 coats of meteor grey and 3 coats of lacquer. Once dry the badge was re assembled. Just need to add trim tape to back of badge. I have now ordered a used rear badge from eBay.

image.jpeg

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21 hours ago, Andymod said:

Finished my first attempt at creating a 2 colour badge. I ordered a used front badge off eBay which had no adhesive pad on the back. Carefully I unclipped the chrome parts from the backing, which is difficult because the clips are brittle.

Once dismantled all parts were sanded with 800 grit paper. The chrome is tough and only just managed to dull it sanding.

The chrome parts were then acid etch primed, painted with 3 coats of black magic and 3 coats of lacquer. 

The centre was plastic primed and painted with 3 coats of meteor grey and 3 coats of lacquer. Once dry the badge was re assembled. Just need to add trim tape to back of badge. I have now ordered a used rear badge from eBay.

image.jpeg


Wow, that looks pretty damn sweet! Nice job on that

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Has anyone tried tinting the rear light clusters?  I tried a few months ago and gave up after a few hours of frustration.  In the end I only tinted the center section of the lights, however the tint has started to come away in the corners.  I have purchased a darker tint to try, but I'm just wondering if anyone else has had a go?

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6 minutes ago, TheFozzy said:

Has anyone tried tinting the rear light clusters?  I tried a few months ago and gave up after a few hours of frustration.  In the end I only tinted the center section of the lights, however the tint has started to come away in the corners.  I have purchased a darker tint to try, but I'm just wondering if anyone else has had a go?

I've had mine done, didn't attempt it myself though.

IMG_20200110_125716.jpg

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6 hours ago, steslatt said:

I've had mine done, didn't attempt it myself though.

IMG_20200110_125716.jpg

How much did this cost to have it done by a professional?  Ive spent the day struggling to do a single light.

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