hi first time I've posted so don't know if I am doing it right but he goes my rear heated window as not worked since I got the car so I thought I would have a look today. I have found that what looks like a resistor has burnt out its situated behind the plastic cover on the side of the rear hatch I have not check the right side yet this was on the left side just wondered if any one else had come across this problem and wondered if there was any problem getting parts, ill try and attach some pictures ?

That looks very dodgy to me, a fire waiting to happen.

 

Had it popped the fuse?

Mine wasn't working when I bought my 2009 superb 4 years ago.

 

i didn't get round to fixing it until about 2 years later.

 

Mine was very dirty with corrosion and I just gave it a good clean up with some sand paper and ensured the connections were good and it's been working ever since.

 

however I think I only did the right side which is similar to your pictures but there's a large copper coil inside a plastic cover and it was the connections to that part that was corroded.

the wire was still live when the switch was pressed no fuse was blown I thought I was going to find a broken cable was not expecting to find this. went to dealers and ordered two new parts one for each side although I have not checked the right side yet but I will replace both to be safe they cost £32 for both so not to bad, just got to wait for them as one is on back order.

Whereabouts is this resistor? My heated rear window doesn't work either (fuse fine, clicks when I turn it on, but not a bit of the screen defrosts) and I'd like to check the resistor first. There are definitely gaps in the elements on the rear window but I should be able to find some spots where I can get a a circuit using a circuit tester, shouldn't I?

 

It's difficult to see where the elements begin, so finding out where the resistor is would also help this investigation..... 

Edited 15 December, 20178 yr by fredfred

Found the resistor. Right hand side of the window, the smallest bit of plastic cover over the hatch mechanism just snaps off - no screws. 

 

The resistor looks fine on a cursory check - no evidence of damage. The fuse is fine, the relay clicks when I turn the heated window on, and the whole rear window has just been replaced so that should be working. 

 

Anyone got an idea what else might be making the rear window heater not work? It's not working at all, no lines are heating whatsoever. 

4 hours ago, fredfred said:

whole rear window has just been replaced so that should be working. 

 

Faulty rear window been fitted??

Have you checked if you have anything - Voltage or Current - after resistor ?

my faulty part was on the left hand side of the car looking at it from the rear you have got connections on both sides my right hand side was ok. the light in the car all worked and I was checking for broken wires when I found my problem 

@timrevill  Can I ask a few questions ? 

 

What was the part you mention ?

 

Where was it (maybe a photo might help).

 

When you say the connections on the left was it a connection problem or a faulty part problem ?

hi the part is a adapter cable loom condenser,[ that's what the parts manual says?]  part number 3t005570 and 3t005570b one is for right side one for left side they are located behind the plastic trim on either side of the rear window located near the peg that holds the parcel shelf . The part i replaced was burnt out and was not allowing any power though it the right side looks slightly different but was ok on mine

How easy to get the panel off don’t want force it want to check the loom as heated rear demister not working 

Brian

superb 2010 elegance 

See here, different fault, but the same trim needs to be removed...

 

 

Hi. I’ve the same problem. I’ve checked everything. Fuses, relay, all wiring. I’ve checked power on the rear windscreen On both sides I’ve power on connectors, but heating still not working. I’ve checked for error codes, but it doesn’t show anything. Did you found solution for it?

Thanks for help.

Resistance is 0.1 ohm.

With the connector leads disconnected on both sides of the window, test the heater element for continuity resistance - you may need assistant to hold test probe on one side while you probe the other, unless your probes have crocodile-clips.

You should read continuity with some resistance in the heater element.

Thanks for advice. I’ve checked everywhere and I found 2 cables snapped in right hand side rubber. 1 I think it’s missing neutral, but another one is dab aerial cable. Any idea how to join or replace the dab cable? I’m not sure if it’s soldered to the rear windscreen. This dab cable is in one piece straight to the radio?

Any advice how to mend dab aerial cable?