What is TSB?

 

While I had my servicing from the local garage today, I asked the guy to check if I need new pairs of Shock absorbers. He quickly checked and said that, there was veey slight leak but still loads of oil left in there..so not to worry for changing within next 6months. But I like to keep my car in optimal condition. So don't know whether i should consider changing or its normal for all Octavia to have slight leaks.

 

14 minutes ago, automass said:

What is TSB?

Technical Service Bulletin

12 hours ago, automass said:

What is TSB?

 

While I had my servicing from the local garage today, I asked the guy to check if I need new pairs of Shock absorbers. He quickly checked and said that, there was veey slight leak but still loads of oil left in there..so not to worry for changing within next 6months. But I like to keep my car in optimal condition. So don't know whether i should consider changing or its normal for all Octavia to have slight leaks.

 

 

Contact a local Skoda dealer and ask them if they can replace your front (not fit for purpose) shock absorbers free of charge (as a goodwill gesture), as they should not leak before 60,000 miles or 6 years, whichever comes first...IMHO.

 

If your local Skoda dealer doesn't know already, tell them that there has been a Technical Service Bulletin on Octavia MK3 front shock absorbers leaking.

 

If you don't get them changed free of charge, I suggest you contact Skoda UK by phone and email. Skoda UK should be able to work with you and your local Skoda dealer to get this problem put right, free of charge...IMHO.

 

Edited 6 March, 20215 yr by Carlston

If the car has been getting Main Dealer Servicing then any TPI should have been acted on at that time.

 

Easy enough for 3 or 4 year old dampers to be needing replaced if the car has been driven hard at speed humps etc.

Not necessarily by the current owner but by the previous ones maybe.

 

But best check if their is a TPI (Technical Product Information) released on the dampers for this series of  Mk3 1.4 TSI DSG.

 

This is just 'Misting'

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/459859-misting-front-shock-absorbers

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/481149-front-shock-absorbers-leaking

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/453226-shock-horrors

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/439428-mot-passed-with-advisory-shock-absorber-leaking

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/446755-new-rear-shock-absorbers-on-warranty

 

Edited 6 March, 20215 yr by e-Roottoot

My full servicing is done from the local garage. There is only possiblity to visit Norton Skoda to have my brake fluid change. During brakefluid change they do car's underneath health report which includes brakes,shocks etc.

To be honest shock absorber  is not that expensive. I could get couple of them within £100 or so..but the garage who did servicing they gave me a quote of £120 to replace them. I am not prepared to spend another £250 right now specially when I lost my job last week.

Hello from Sweden!

 

I own a Octavia mk3 ,1.6 TDi, 2015,  station wagon ,4×4.  I noticed my front right shock to be leaking( same amount of dirt on the left side) and the metal round ring around the right shock to be broken. I already ordered a pair of Sachs Shock Absorbers , bearings. Will change both sides next week. Car doesnt sound strange over bumps or so  . A good call or do you consider as an early change? The car has 171 000 km on the clock and original shocks...

12 minutes ago, BerkCo said:

Hello from Sweden!

 

I own a Octavia mk3 ,1.6 TDi, 2015,  station wagon ,4×4.  I noticed my front right shock to be leaking( same amount of dirt on the left side) and the metal round ring around the right shock to be broken. I already ordered a pair of Sachs Shock Absorbers , bearings. Will change both sides next week. Car doesnt sound strange over bumps or so  . A good call or do you consider as an early change? The car has 171 000 km on the clock and original shocks...

As you can see, I had the similar issue but I am not regreting to have my shocks and coil springs changed, coz once the shocks were out and i inspected. front right one was gone (even though there was not too much oil leaking)...left one had 30% life left. My springs were good all around though. Miles of my car is 90k miles and year is 5 and half year.

Edited 23 February, 20233 yr by automass

Thank you for your reply! I will be changing the coils as well, because why not 😃 So I don't have to do the same repair procedure next year 

1 minute ago, BerkCo said:

Thank you for your reply! I will be changing the coils as well, because why not 😃 So I don't have to do the same repair procedure next year 

That's right. Make sure you get the right parts? It's really a big job for the garage people to replace shocks and coils. I got the Monroe and they have FIVE years gurantee. Now looking for the same make rear as well. I will change the rear shocks myself in a sunny warm day..thats next project.

Yes, I got the right part number from Sachs customer services. It should be Sachs 315 910, Sachs Coil springs 993 820, and Sachs top mount and bearings.  I have changed front shocks on a Volvo before. I studied the procedure both with YouTube videos and with workshop manuals. I think I have all the tolls needed, of course there is gonna be some rusted bolts . Typical Sweden, road salt . 

I changed the front suspension items at past weekend. It was quite straightforward beside some tugging and pulling on lower control arm and a top strut mount bolt I had to cut. 

Edited 10 March, 20233 yr by BerkCo

9 minutes ago, BerkCo said:

I changed the front suspension items at past weekend. It was quite straightforward beside some tugging and pulling on lower control arm and a top strut mount bolt I had to cut. 

 

 

Is your car with led front and back light? I am having headlight beam range problem now..don't know how and when it happened?

I don't have Led, just regular halogen lights

I forgot to write on my previous comment that, wheel alignment is necessary after the shock absorber or coil spring change. I had it done in a professional garage. For those of you who are going to do this replacement yourself,  can contact me about the details.  Happy to help! 

It's actually not a necessity but very much advised. Depends if you need to take the hub carrier off or manage to swap the shock out the pikey way.

Not required, you can remove and refit or replace the steering knuckle, strut, spring etc 1000 times and the tracking will never change one iota.

Wow! 1000 times 😃 I have noticed a slight change on the steering wheel not being straight while the car is going straight,  after I changed struts. So next 1000 times I change it , it will not need an alignment than 👍 

To be honest, I don't feel any difference at all as my shocks and springs have been replaced. I also asked the guy if i need doing alignment . he said he didn't touch the part (forgot what he said the name of the part) that requires readjusting or alignment. So definitely, in my case i don't need definitely. Long ago i had citron C4 and i had to do alignment after shock replacement.

Edited 14 March, 20233 yr by automass

4 hours ago, BerkCo said:

I have noticed a slight change on the steering wheel not being straight while the car is going straight,  after I changed struts. So next 1000 times I change it , it will not need an alignment than

 

The steering wheel not being straight is a separate issue from wheel alignment.

 

You can have correct wheel alignment and the steering wheel not being straight at the same time. It just means that someone has put the steering wheel on the wrong spline.

 

I've changed front springs and shock absorbers a couple of times, and there's never been any need to do an alignment, ie. adjust toe-in/toe-out. After 30,000 miles the front tyres are wearing evenly and the steering feels as good as new.

 

Edited 15 March, 20233 yr by Carlston

Nobody has taken the steering wheel out and put it in wrong splines. I changed front shock absorbers, bearings and coils . When I was done, I noticed the slight change in the steering wheel. Everything is torqued to spec and every bolt is double checked. Why the slight change in the steering wheel ???

 

I understand your point wheel alignment and steering wheel being straight when car going straight,  two different issues. But wheel alignment solved the steering wheel issue for me.

 

Edited 15 March, 20233 yr by BerkCo

1 hour ago, BerkCo said:

But wheel alignment solved the steering wheel issue for me.

 

Sadly with the (lack of) competence of most garages that is where the issue is created in most cases.

 

The front struts are concentric cylinders with zero clearance where they connect to the steering knuckle (when clamped up) so cannot affect wheel alignment.

 

Of course many opportunistic garages will have you believe otherwise.......................

Alright, I agree with  garages being opportunistic and taking advantage of customers. I have seen it happen many times. 

I should have done something wrong when i replaced the strut than, that effected the steering wheel slightly somehow. I didn't take out the steering ballpoint from the spindel. I did exactly as shown in this tutorial video. 

https://youtu.be/SVb1ntLnpeQ

2 hours ago, BerkCo said:

Alright, I agree with  garages being opportunistic and taking advantage of customers. I have seen it happen many times. 

 

Is your steering wheel centred on the steering rack?

 

So although the steering wheel is now straight when driving straight ahead, do you get exactly the same number of steering wheel turns when you go fully left and fully right.

 

Let's say you get 1.75 turns left and 1.75 turns right. That would be good. But 2.0 turns left and 1.5 turns right from the straight ahead position would not be good...and would mean that the steering wheel wasn't centred on the steering rack.

 

Edited 15 March, 20233 yr by Carlston

Hi Carlston!

 Thanks ! I jave just tried that and it is almost exactly 1,75 turns to left and 1,75 turns to right. The car feels and drives safely. I was just curious to why the steering wheel alignment changed  when i changed the front struts.  Could be that I changed it to Sachs parts and not the OEM parts, could be slightly different. Or may be i tugged a bit more on the spindel ( steering joint attached) causing the the steering wheel off centering. Just curious, so I dont do same mistake next time 😃Maybe next time i should detach it . I dont know