1 hour ago, ApertureS said:

No corrosion anywhere, in fact they only recently came back from the powder coaters and had the new pads fitted.

 

There is vertical movement in the holder of about 1.5mm which is enough to cause an awful knock.

Not ideal 😞

 

Wouldnt ever go near EBC pads again, had a set in my old polo and lost brakes when the friction material fell out as it unglued itself from the backing plate.

I am quite the fan of TRW, Ferrodo and pagid, never had issues with these  

ATE ceramics is what you need

2 hours ago, Danoid said:

ATE ceramics is what you need

 +1 This is what I use from years as well. On regular ATE discs/rotors as recommended by ATE.

Put winter tires on an old set of Audi wheels. I think they look good, only the center caps is what I don’t fancy much, because they say “Audi” but I can live with it.

8 hours ago, Danoid said:

ATE ceramics is what you need

Good choice actually.

 

fitted these to my mums car and the brake dust is very minimal.

compared to the oe pads which have to be cleaned off every week (granted the grooved discs don’t help this)

11 hours ago, ApertureS said:

No corrosion anywhere, in fact they only recently came back from the powder coaters and had the new pads fitted.

 

There is vertical movement in the holder of about 1.5mm which is enough to cause an awful knock.

Not ideal 😞

 

Wouldnt ever go near EBC pads again, had a set in my old polo and lost brakes when the friction material fell out as it unglued itself from the backing plate.

I am quite the fan of TRW, Ferrodo and pagid, never had issues with these  

Never had the issue myself in all the years I’ve been using them, but did have a friend who had the same issue as yourself with one set he fitted. Think EBC acknowledged the issue and accredited it to a change in manufacturing process, apologised, and replaced the pads without issue. Has never happened again on him. 
the ferrodo are a fantastic pad as well. Have fitted plenty of them to R, GTI, S, and RS type vehicles, all with brilliant results. 
Hope you get the knock sorted. Nothing like a noise you shouldn’t have to P*** you right off. 

Had a rear view camera retrofitted today by the nice guy at vw retrofit near Redditch. Also tried fixing the memory seats but no luck with odis, needs a new module :( 

12 hours ago, Athrx said:

Had a rear view camera retrofitted today by the nice guy at vw retrofit near Redditch. Also tried fixing the memory seats but no luck with odis, needs a new module 😞

What did they charge to fit that for you? A friend had his fitted by Halfords and he noticed part of the cable was protruding from the NS curtain airbag trim, which was also bulging somewhat, so he took it back. Another older “technician” looked at it, removed the trim and they’d tucked the excess cable in front of the NS curtain airbag but they couldn’t force it all in there so they left a bit hanging out! 

£420 all in. I have no idea where he pulled the cable through as i can't see a single panel even slightly misplaced. Also, i emailed monday and he could fit me in friday, really happy with that. 

 

Those halfords techs need a good smacking. What happens when the airbag deploys?

49 minutes ago, Athrx said:

£420 all in

😳 FM!! 

 

53 minutes ago, Athrx said:

What happens when the airbag deploys?

They did rectify the cable run, but it doesn’t bear thinking about…

Rear brakes on 3mm and front in 4mm; discs with enough wear so took the opportunity to look at brakes. Was set on EBC Turbo grooved and Redstuff until I read through some stuff on here so Mtec Drilled/Grooved and ATE Ceramic pads on order. Mtec have a deal on at the mo so worked out well cost wise.

Did a bit of a "Shifty" business today on Gandalf 😁

It now matches the look n feel of the steering wheel and seats.

Less than 5 mins to swap it over.

Sourced from AliExpress.

Nothing wrong with old, nor was it worn out. Was just time for a change.

 

Left pair = new perforated ones

Right pair = factory original ones

 

Fitted...

@JR RS

Can You describe procedure please?

 

i have saved instruction for regular DSG gear stick to Kodiaq version replacement,

and it doesn't look as 5 min job at all 

-> https://www.drive2.com/l/507863872187663589/

Edited 28 October, 20241 yr by MartiniB

I finally bit the bullet and bought myself a VCDS module/cable from one of Ross Tech's UK distributors, having debated for some time about buying a used one from a certain online auction site. I had the engine light come up on the dash last week which was the push I needed to justify buying it.

On plugging the cable in and running an auto-scan, it came back with a fault on the glow plug on cylinder 1. I then bought a set of 3 plugs and made ready to get them changed. I decided to take the car out for a short run to get her warmed up. I fired her up, only to find that the infernal dash warning light went off. Cleared the fault code, ran the auto scan again, no fault found.

So, with a bit of time on my hands, I thought I'd take a look at making some adaptions as listed in the sticky on VCDS options. I haven't gone mad, but now have the following coded;

1. Disabled Stop/Start as it drove me nuts every time it kicked in. 

2. Changed the throttle response to the Audi setting. I know some folks have reported they didn't notice too much of a change with this, but I feel it has definitely improved things.  

3. Added Quantity to refuel on the dot matrix.

4. Enabled the "off road" display on the head unit-more for a bit of fun than anything.

5. I had wanted to get the fan switch to show the fan speed in auto setting, but drew a blank on that as the bit that needs enabling isn't present and requires changing in the long code as far as I am aware and probably a step ahead of where I'm at in learning how to use VCDS so it'll have to wait.

 

I may enable the rear lights to come on as DRL's when I get 5 minutes but for now, I'm happy with the changes and I'll wait to see if the engine light comes back on!

50 minutes ago, Devonshiredave said:

I finally bit the bullet and bought myself a VCDS module/cable from one of Ross Tech's UK distributors, having debated for some time about buying a used one from a certain online auction site. I had the engine light come up on the dash last week which was the push I needed to justify buying it.

On plugging the cable in and running an auto-scan, it came back with a fault on the glow plug on cylinder 1. I then bought a set of 3 plugs and made ready to get them changed. I decided to take the car out for a short run to get her warmed up. I fired her up, only to find that the infernal dash warning light went off. Cleared the fault code, ran the auto scan again, no fault found.

So, with a bit of time on my hands, I thought I'd take a look at making some adaptions as listed in the sticky on VCDS options. I haven't gone mad, but now have the following coded;

1. Disabled Stop/Start as it drove me nuts every time it kicked in. 

2. Changed the throttle response to the Audi setting. I know some folks have reported they didn't notice too much of a change with this, but I feel it has definitely improved things.  

3. Added Quantity to refuel on the dot matrix.

4. Enabled the "off road" display on the head unit-more for a bit of fun than anything.

5. I had wanted to get the fan switch to show the fan speed in auto setting, but drew a blank on that as the bit that needs enabling isn't present and requires changing in the long code as far as I am aware and probably a step ahead of where I'm at in learning how to use VCDS so it'll have to wait.

 

I may enable the rear lights to come on as DRL's when I get 5 minutes but for now, I'm happy with the changes and I'll wait to see if the engine light comes back on!

I would like some of those changes on mine.

Stop / start definitely, Scandi rear side lights as DRL's, Audi throttle &, if possible, speed sign recognition in the Matrix.  

I can't justify the cost of a VCDS so will probably ask my Independent VAG specialist to have a look for me when it goes in for service next. 

 

4 hours ago, MartiniB said:

@JR RS

Can You describe procedure please?

 

i have saved instruction for regular DSG gear stick to Kodiaq version replacement,

and it doesn't look as 5 min job at all 

 

 

I didn't replace the whole thing - just the sides bits, as shown in my pic.

Removing the whole thing is a different story, and definitely not a 5 min job.

 

My factory shifter is still in good condition. I only changed it cause I fancied a change, but OEM+

 

To remove, using trim removal tools - pop off the top DSG plate, then pop the sides off, one by one.

Once off, the new sides simply click into place.

 

5 hours ago, MartiniB said:

@JR RS

Can You describe procedure please?

 

i have saved instruction for regular DSG gear stick to Kodiaq version replacement,

and it doesn't look as 5 min job at all 

-> https://www.drive2.com/l/507863872187663589/

Probably because it looks like you have to carry out the procedure in a darkened room! 

20 hours ago, Devonshiredave said:

I finally bit the bullet and bought myself a VCDS module/cable from one of Ross Tech's UK distributors, having debated for some time about buying a used one from a certain online auction site. I had the engine light come up on the dash last week which was the push I needed to justify buying it.

On plugging the cable in and running an auto-scan, it came back with a fault on the glow plug on cylinder 1. I then bought a set of 3 plugs and made ready to get them changed. I decided to take the car out for a short run to get her warmed up. I fired her up, only to find that the infernal dash warning light went off. Cleared the fault code, ran the auto scan again, no fault found.

So, with a bit of time on my hands, I thought I'd take a look at making some adaptions as listed in the sticky on VCDS options. I haven't gone mad, but now have the following coded;

1. Disabled Stop/Start as it drove me nuts every time it kicked in. 

2. Changed the throttle response to the Audi setting. I know some folks have reported they didn't notice too much of a change with this, but I feel it has definitely improved things.  

3. Added Quantity to refuel on the dot matrix.

4. Enabled the "off road" display on the head unit-more for a bit of fun than anything.

5. I had wanted to get the fan switch to show the fan speed in auto setting, but drew a blank on that as the bit that needs enabling isn't present and requires changing in the long code as far as I am aware and probably a step ahead of where I'm at in learning how to use VCDS so it'll have to wait.

 

I may enable the rear lights to come on as DRL's when I get 5 minutes but for now, I'm happy with the changes and I'll wait to see if the engine light comes back on!

I’ve been procrastinating buying VCDS, really need to buy a new battery but annoyingly it’s still going somewhat okay.

 

i’ll be doing similar mods to you as well, but I’d also give the parking brake early release a go to

3 hours ago, Danoid said:

i’ll be doing similar mods to you as well, but I’d also give the parking brake early release a go to

What is this mod then?

1 hour ago, Graham Butcher said:

What is this mod then?

that one there, look at bap33’s post above he says it changes the way the parking brake released and much better

16 hours ago, Danoid said:

I’ve been procrastinating buying VCDS, really need to buy a new battery but annoyingly it’s still going somewhat okay.

 

i’ll be doing similar mods to you as well, but I’d also give the parking brake early release a go to

Don’t wait too much with the battery. When it’s too weak, it’s quite sudden. 
On my former Mk2 Estate, all was ok and one day, Xmas tree lights on the dashboards. 😳 It was only 3.5 years old though… Probably from a wrong batch, who knows…

I changed it on my current Mk3 at 6 years old. I didn’t want to play roulette when driving to work or dropping kids to school.

 

Regarding the brake realease mod. It doesn’t deal with the Parking brake but Auto Hold. 😉

I confirm that it’s way smoother. I wouldn’t go back to ´normal / factory’ setting for sure.

2 hours ago, Bap33 said:

Don’t wait too much with the battery. When it’s too weak, it’s quite sudden. 
On my former Mk2 Estate, all was ok and one day, Xmas tree lights on the dashboards. 😳 It was only 3.5 years old though… Probably from a wrong batch, who knows…

I changed it on my current Mk3 at 6 years old. I didn’t want to play roulette when driving to work or dropping kids to school.

 

Regarding the brake realease mod. It doesn’t deal with the Parking brake but Auto Hold. 😉

I confirm that it’s way smoother. I wouldn’t go back to ´normal / factory’ setting for sure.

Colder weather will accelerate the demise of your battery as well. My battery started playing up at 4 years old during lockdown when it was parked on the drive for weeks on end. Start stop stopped working which was the first sign it was starting to go. I tried charging & trickle charging it which allowed it to start but even after a run it would often fail to turn over after I stopped & it needed a jump from a booster pack to get it going again. 

I think the VAG OEM batteries are not the best & are only designed to get through the warranty period. Had a similar problem on my previous Mk2 Superb & an Audi A6. At least I could change the battery on the A6 myself. Not the case on the Superb's as they need coding & I don't have the gizmo to do it.    

I trading in my 2016 Superb earlier this month when it was 8 years old and it was still on its original battery.  I never had any trouble starting and usually stop start would kick in within a few minutes of leaving home at the first junction.

My battery is still on its original one too, registered 2016.

 

I always turn stop start off manually as part of my routine, but sometimes starting it is a bit sluggish, doesn’t help I only drive it once a week if that 😞 

 

But yeah cold and heat kills batteries, so I’m suspecting this winter will be its last, I just hate spending money 😂

7 hours ago, Bap33 said:

Regarding the brake release mod. It doesn’t deal with the Parking brake but Auto Hold. 😉

I confirm that it’s way smoother. I wouldn’t go back to ´normal / factory’ setting for sure.

I'll definitely take a look at this. Mine quite often releases with a bit of a jolt. 

10 hours ago, Danoid said:

My battery is still on its original one too, registered 2016.

 

I always turn stop start off manually as part of my routine, but sometimes starting it is a bit sluggish, doesn’t help I only drive it once a week if that 😞 

 

But yeah cold and heat kills batteries, so I’m suspecting this winter will be its last, I just hate spending money 😂

I would urge you to get the battery replaced asap. I didn’t heed the same warnings you’ve got and it failed… when we were in Southern Ireland… we live in Surbiton!