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What have you done to your Superb III today?


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23 minutes ago, naster said:

So every 3 years or 30k the filter element/sift must be cleaned before changing the fluid

Actually, you have to clean it upon oil change, otherwise it may flush the Haldex... But I assume that's what you had in mind.

VAG only recommends every 3 years w/o mileage limit, which is a nonsense to me. Considering it also strongly depends on the king of roads you use (dry motorways is not like twisty snowy mountain roads for instance).

I think every 45000 km, not far from your 30k (miles?), sounds wise to me. I agree ;) 

 

 

Complete opération explained here, for those who'd like to do it too (or at least understand):

 

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Yes. Thank you. What I meant was doing the cleaning service before pouring the new fluid :). Have you heard if facelift superbs could have been Haldex 6?

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23 minutes ago, superbuser35 said:

Haldex oil replacement (Superb, 4x4)

Done by authorized workshop. Cost 160€

Did they clean the strainer element on the pump too?

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33 minutes ago, superbuser35 said:

Haldex oil replacement (Superb, 4x4)

Done by authorized workshop. Cost 160€

For me it’s not a question of price. I just want to have the Haldex serviced as it should. VAG standard Haldex service doesn’t include pump strainer cleaning. It’s not even written in the VAG workshop manual.
Not cleaning the pump gauge is a non sense, just as if you never replace oil filter upon engine oil change.

Edited by Bap33
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35 minutes ago, ApertureS said:

Did they clean the strainer element on the pump too?

None of the authorised shops around here have a standard procedure for the strainer cleaning. Just the fluid change.

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5 minutes ago, naster said:

None of the authorised shops around here have a standard procedure for the strainer cleaning. Just the fluid change.

This is the issue with dealerships, if its not written on a bit of paper, they have no idea how to do it! A bit of common sense from a mechanic says to undo the 2 bolts and it just pops out, but like you said, not a standard procedure so they wont do it :D

 

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How come it’s such a pain to make sure the strainer is cleaned? Only specific shops would do that and only if you ask specifically for that job including the bill of materials required.

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So after 3 years of ownership, the first mechanical problem has arisen - the nearside rear wheel bearing has failed.

the sealed bearing seems to have split on one side and leaked all its grease causing a noise from the bearing.

 

Parts on order at £50 for the bearing and caliper and carrier bolts and not too hard to change really, 30 mins work when they do turn up.

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Rear bearings have been known as potential weakness however had been reportedly changed within warranty period.

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12 hours ago, ApertureS said:

So after 3 years of ownership, the first mechanical problem has arisen - the nearside rear wheel bearing has failed.

the sealed bearing seems to have split on one side and leaked all its grease causing a noise from the bearing.

 

Parts on order at £50 for the bearing and caliper and carrier bolts and not too hard to change really, 30 mins work when they do turn up.

Sorry to hear this, or replacement or what brand?

Thanks

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2 hours ago, Bobodaclown said:

Sorry to hear this, or replacement or what brand?

Thanks

OE is £180, The OEM one made by FAG is £40, I think I’ll go for the FAG one at them prices :) 

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17 minutes ago, ApertureS said:

OE is £180, The OEM one made by FAG is £40, I think I’ll go for the FAG one at them prices :) 

😉That is completely fair! Huge difference. 

Do you normally just replace the one that has gone or do you consider all the same time?

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22 minutes ago, Bobodaclown said:

😉That is completely fair! Huge difference. 

Do you normally just replace the one that has gone or do you consider all the same time?

Just the one, not generally a failing component so no need to replace others.

 

albeit I still check the others for any signs of failing 

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I replaced the OE Silikat header tank yesterday with a non silikat unit. Took about 15 minutes from start to finish.
Using hose clip pliers, I removed the top hose from the tank first (which took the most amount of time during the whole job, as it was very reluctant to budge!) then freed-up the plastic hose support bracket connected to the side of the tank.
Then, I applied upward pressure on the rear of the tank and using a flat blade screwdriver, I undid the two clips on the top rear of the tank until they’d become disconnected and finally, using both hands, I yanked the bottom fixing out of the hole in the wheelarch and the tank was free.
I then turned the tank 45 degrees and removed the bottom hose, and quickly turned the tank upside down whilst keeping a finger on the top hose inlet.
I then emptied the G13 into a jug and then installed the new tank, replaced the G13 from the old tank, topped it up with fresh G13 to the top of the min mark and then ran the car upto temp to check for leaks. 

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Considering the timing belt has to be replaced @ 210000 km and that water pump is usually done at the same time.

I think the answer is 210000 km... 🤔

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2 hours ago, Bap33 said:

Considering the timing belt has to be replaced @ 210000 km and that water pump is usually done at the same time.

I think the answer is 210000 km...

I think the question maybe aimed at the fact that the recommended antifreeze should be G12 evo not G13.

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Since G13 used to be the standard spec when "Mit Silkat" is written on the coolant tank. Thus it is to last 210000 km at least.

This is at least my understanding.

 

However, as a non native English speaker, I may miss something. 🤔

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29 minutes ago, Bap33 said:

Since G13 used to be the standard spec when "Mit Silkat" is written on the coolant tank. Thus it is to last 210000 km at least.

This is at least my understanding.

 

However, as a non native English speaker, I may miss something. 🤔

I believe that by removing the silica bag or replacing the expansion bottle with a NON mit silkat bottle you should only use G12 evo antifreeze. The G13 does not give the required protection.

Edited by Gammyleg
Numerical dyslexia
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G13 requires silkat bag to make it last longer, hence does not need to b changed/flushed as often.

G12evo does not require silkat bag, however it is not meant to last long and should be changed/flushed more frequently.

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Thanks all. Could I safely assume that after removing the silica bag I can drive for a year? Would G13 deteriorate that quickly? I would eventually upgrade to G12evo, but plan to do it on my next oil change at 52-ish k km.

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