7 minutes ago, Awesam said:

 

 

I don't have Koni's, its on Bilstein B16's

Ah Ok, sorry.

2 hours ago, Gabrielem said:

How was the thing with the Koni and the height?

Maybe you are asking about my shocks?

I have them now, sooner than expected. Just trying to find a slot in the garage to get them fitted along with a couple other jobs. I'm keeping it stock height though. I did notice on a review somewhere that the shock travel is longer than stock shocks allowing more sag into holes before they top out. Helps with the fancy valving apparently and would explain why a handful of people said they increase the ride height like the B6's. Pretty sure they don't but I will make sure to get a before and after measurement on each corner.

On 22/06/2020 at 04:50, newbie69 said:

So how much did it drop and how does it look?  Here are some not ideal photos I could take at the moment (from a photography point of view) but they do ok to provide the comparison:






For me it's almost perfect. The front is exactly as I wish it would be: 20-25mm drop measured.

The rear seems to have dropped more (in comparison) a 25-30mm in total. As stock, the rear was sitting 10mm higher than the front (clearly visible on the top part of the photos), now both ends sit at the same height. 

This looks pretty sweet I have to admit as the car sits level now, but I wonder how it will be once fully loaded with 4 people and luggage. Need to check this. For sure, if i hadn't opted for the 6.5mm thicker Audi TT bushings I'd be in trouble and the rear would be lower than the front so my recommendation:

If you have a 272, you most probably need the Audi bushings too (they were 16 EUR in total)

A couple more:






I have to say I absolutely love the look of the car right now with the wider alloys and the new ride height, clearly purposeful and as aggressive as it should be (for what it is with near 400bhp)  without getting too extreme.


But the best thing was the handling improvement. I really didn't expect that amount of change as I've experienced in my first test drive an I can only attribute it to the Sportline's DCC set up which, has to be different than the L&K's otherwise my findings simply don't match the ones from L&K owners at all.

As short as I can put it, the springs almost eliminated the effects of weight transfer during almost every change of balance. Gone is the squatting during acceleration, the brake diving and the bit of initial roll still left even after the arb upgrade. In Sport, it's a real performance machine now but the weird thing is that the comfort hasn't been compromised at all. The car turns in and corners almost flat, and what I noticed is that the point of the thicker arb's intervention became imperceptible now. No more "bit of roll - then lock yaw" behaviour, just an increased opposition to roll right from the start and much more tendency to follow whatever your input is. Driving it "blind" you would have to assume it's some focused GTI and I did live with one for 3 years so I have a good reference I think. The exploiting of the extra power now is so much nicer, you don't feel as if you're forcing the car to do something too hard but rather something it was designed to do from factory. Everything just works better and doesn't stand out. Obviously the Sportline's damping (on Sport) was set up right from the start but the stock springs were the weak link letting it down. I can't explain it any other way. 

I'm usually picky with suspension and handling and as it stands, changing the dampers doesn't even cross my mind, it's that good now. On the other hand, if you don't have a Sportline DCC and decide to change springs on your own, do yourself a favour and put some new shocks in (Koni Actives got great reviews recently here) while you're at it. The thought of having to do that if my DCC-springs combo wasn't up to the job made me dizzy, thankfully it wasn't the case on my car.

The only other thing needed now is brakes I feel. On an open road, you are now getting so tempted to attack anything not in a straight line and once you do the limit has been raised that much that you find yourself needing to stop from higher speeds way more often than before. So it's something that needs looking at at some point.

Overall a great transformation into something so much more potent and enjoyable helped by all new bits in place, looking forward to just find time to drive it now...




 

Hey nice looking setup with the eibachs and thanks for a brilliant write up. 
 

Can I please ask what are your rim/tyre specs are and are you running any spacers?  How flush are you to the guards front and rear?

On 01/03/2022 at 12:20, Donweather said:

Hey nice looking setup with the eibachs and thanks for a brilliant write up. 
 

Can I please ask what are your rim/tyre specs are and are you running any spacers?  How flush are you to the guards front and rear?

At the time of those photos I just had the Eibach springs on and the wheels were Ispiri FFP2 19x8.5 ET37, poking out a further 13.4mm compared to the stock ones.

However the tracks are so narrow  that even those wheels looked slightly hidden inside so I later added 10mm hubcentric Eibach spacers which brought it closer to a flush look (still 3-4mm from fully flush and definitely no rubbing whatsoever) which finally made it perfect for my like and discreetly more aggressive.

Here's a photo of the wider alloys + 10mm spacers on, which together equalled to 23.4mm further poking out compared to stock:




PS. Corrected the original poking out value from 18mm to 13.4mm.

PS.2 Stock 235/40/19 tires

Edited 3 March, 20224 yr by newbie69

1 hour ago, newbie69 said:

Here's a photo of the wider alloys + 10mm spacers on, which together equalled to 23.4mm further poking out compared to stock:
 

 

So if you have 23.4 poke which is achieved with a spacer you must have an amount of extra space on the inside of the wheel.

 

Do you think you could get a 9" 255 tyre in there?

1 hour ago, newbie69 said:

At the time of those photos I just had the Eibach springs on and the wheels were Ispiri FFP2 19x8.5 ET37, poking out a further 13.4mm compared to the stock ones.

However the tracks are so narrow  that even those wheels looked slightly hidden inside so I later added 10mm hubcentric Eibach spacers which brought it closer to a flush look (still 3-4mm from fully flush and definitely no rubbing whatsoever) which finally made it perfect for my like and discreetly more aggressive.

Here's a photo of the wider alloys + 10mm spacers on, which together equalled to 23.4mm further poking out compared to stock:




PS. Corrected the original poking out value from 18mm to 13.4mm.

PS.2 Stock 235/40/19 tires

Thanks. That equates pretty spot on to my measurements for the rears. Need around 22-24mm poke from stock to sit flush. Although for me this is on the rears. Fronts look less around the 13-15mm. You’ve got the same setup (rims and spacers) front and rear?

Edited 3 March, 20224 yr by Donweather

13 hours ago, Legion said:

 

So if you have 23.4 poke which is achieved with a spacer you must have an amount of extra space on the inside of the wheel.

 

Do you think you could get a 9" 255 tyre in there?

To be precise, the 23.4mm  is achieved by both the aftermarket alloys being wider & with different offset (the distance between the mating plane of the alloy to its outer edge ) pushing the width of the wheel out by 13.4mm, plus the spacers which push it further out by an amount equal to their thickness (10mm).

So, if the stock tires are pushed out by 23.4mm that means an equal amount of tire could fit yes so 235 > 255 should in theory fit.

I can't comment about the 9" alone because you don't specify the offset, and these go together.
If you mean  9J ET37 that would mean an increase of 6.4mm both ways comparing to my setup above (equally outside and closer to the strut) so that's not going to be the same.
With 9J you would need to drop to ET30 to ensure the 255 tire would not be any closer to the strut than stock (it would be even 1.3mm further away) and then it would poke out by 26.7mm which is 3.3mm more than I had in mine and I imagine it would be really at the limit.


 

12 hours ago, Donweather said:

Thanks. That equates pretty spot on to my measurements for the rears. Need around 22-24mm poke from stock to sit flush. Although for me this is on the rears. Fronts look less around the 13-15mm. You’ve got the same setup (rims and spacers) front and rear?

Yes it's the rears that were sitting almost flush with the extra 23.4mm (maybe 2mm in). I remember the fronts were sitting a bit further inside but for extra safety I went with the same setup all around and didn't mind it.

10 hours ago, newbie69 said:

Yes it's the rears that were sitting almost flush with the extra 23.4mm (maybe 2mm in). I remember the fronts were sitting a bit further inside but for extra safety I went with the same setup all around and didn't mind it.

No my Stock fronts are Sitting closer to the guards than the rears. By about 10mm by my calcs. So a 23mm poke rim on my fronts would be sticking out from the front guard by around 8-9mm. 

Edited 4 March, 20224 yr by Donweather

 

newbie: I presume the standard studs weren't long enough with the changes you made. Can I ask what wheel stud and nut kit you used with those wider wheels and spacers?

On 04/03/2022 at 22:51, Donweather said:

No my Stock fronts are Sitting closer to the guards than the rears. By about 10mm by my calcs. So a 23mm poke rim on my fronts would be sticking out from the front guard by around 8-9mm. 

I'm pretty sure on my 272 Sportline the rears were sitting further out than the fronts even as stock and these photos after fitting spacers confirm it: The rears are practically flush whereas the fronts could still spare 2-4mm it seems.

Is yours a 272/280 Sportline also? (not that I know for sure that the tracks should be different between the variants, just a guess)





 

 

On 05/03/2022 at 00:00, fencer said:

 

newbie: I presume the standard studs weren't long enough with the changes you made. Can I ask what wheel stud and nut kit you used with those wider wheels and spacers?

No stud & nut kit (hadn't done a conversion) but simply 10mm longer bolts with the correct seat for the alloys. You only need to make sure the longer bolts have the same seat as the alloys you plan on using them on, the Ispiris I had featured a conical seat instead of the spherical R13 the OEM alloys do.
 

10 hours ago, newbie69 said:

I'm pretty sure on my 272 Sportline the rears were sitting further out than the fronts even as stock and these photos after fitting spacers confirm it: The rears are practically flush whereas the fronts could still spare 2-4mm it seems.

Is yours a 272/280 Sportline also? (not that I know for sure that the tracks should be different between the variants, just a guess)
 

 

Tis the same for me - my rears have a slightly wider track than than the front, or the fender is more outwards on the front.

 

When I switched to 245 wide tyres, running 15mm spacers, my rear tyres started to scrape, on compression, against the fender.  The front has no issues.

I'm now running 10mm spacers at the rear.  It still looks as flush as the front wheels.

 

p.s. mine is a 220, with factory 19s.

 

 

 

Edited 7 March, 20224 yr by JR RS

On 07/03/2022 at 23:43, newbie69 said:

I'm pretty sure on my 272 Sportline the rears were sitting further out than the fronts even as stock and these photos after fitting spacers confirm it: The rears are practically flush whereas the fronts could still spare 2-4mm it seems.

Is yours a 272/280 Sportline also? (not that I know for sure that the tracks should be different between the variants, just a guess)





 

 

No stud & nut kit (hadn't done a conversion) but simply 10mm longer bolts with the correct seat for the alloys. You only need to make sure the longer bolts have the same seat as the alloys you plan on using them on, the Ispiris I had featured a conical seat instead of the spherical R13 the OEM alloys do.
 

Mine is a 280 Sportline. Although we just call them MY21 Sportline in Aus. Maybe when I’ve taken the measurements on the front the wheel hasn’t been straight. I’ll try and get a straight wheel measurement on both sides to confirm. 

Edited 9 March, 20224 yr by Donweather

On 09/03/2022 at 12:25, Donweather said:

Mine is a 280 Sportline. Although we just call them MY21 Sportline in Aus. Maybe when I’ve taken the measurements on the front the wheel hasn’t been straight. I’ll try and get a straight wheel measurement on both sides to confirm. 

Then I really have no idea how it could the opposite situation than mine...  Also JR RS confirmed the rears poking out a little more than the fronts on his car and he's based in OZ  🤷‍♂️

On 08/03/2022 at 10:29, JR RS said:

p.s. mine is a 220, with factory 19s.

220 being the 162tsi in Oz? 
 

would appear that the axle setup for the 162 is different to the 206TSI Sportline then

45 minutes ago, Donweather said:

220 being the 162tsi in Oz? 
 

would appear that the axle setup for the 162 is different to the 206TSI Sportline then

 

Yes, 162 kW = 220 bp.

Just like 206 kW = 280 bp. 

 

Maybe the 162/220, being a FWD, has a different rear axle setup to the 206/280 due to the AWD.

But then again, @NewBie has a 272.  I highly doubt the rear track would've changed between 272 and 280 variants.

So I did another measure on the weekend. I measure from the outside face of the guard to the tyre wall, not the rim. Results on all four wheels are:

 

Front drivers side: 18-19mm inside guard

Front passenger side: 18-19mm inside guard

Rear drivers side: 23-24mm inside guard

Rear passenger side: 20-21mm inside guard

 

I have absolutely no idea why the drivers side rear would be different. I checked and rechecked. Makes no sense. 

 

 

 

4 hours ago, Donweather said:

So I did another measure on the weekend. I measure from the outside face of the guard to the tyre wall, not the rim. Results on all four wheels are:

 

Front drivers side: 18-19mm inside guard

Front passenger side: 18-19mm inside guard

Rear drivers side: 23-24mm inside guard

Rear passenger side: 20-21mm inside guard

 

I have absolutely no idea why the drivers side rear would be different. I checked and rechecked. Makes no sense. 

 

ur overthinking this waaaayyyyyyy too much!!!

@Donweather

measure better to center of wheel,
then result won't depend on disc and tire sizes

example -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485647-bilstein-b6-dcc-shock-absorbers-available-at-last/?do=findComment&comment=5625462

 

On 22/03/2022 at 17:22, MartiniB said:

@Donweather

measure better to center of wheel,
then result won't depend on disc and tire sizes

example -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485647-bilstein-b6-dcc-shock-absorbers-available-at-last/?do=findComment&comment=5625462

 

I’m measuring the horizontal offset from the tyre/rim to the guard to workout what new rim spec I can get to fill out the rim/tyre to the guards. Nothing to do with lowering the car.