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Dashcam fitting

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I was going to attempt it today but weather was bad!

A brief video would be great showing the routing and tips,

but in the meantime ......

could you please confirm the following regarding the front camera fitting:

did you need to remove any of the sound proofing under the dash/stowage box to route the cable?

did you route it between the roof lining across the joint at the top of the A pillar (by releasing the the top of the A pillar cover) then around the door seal and back at the joint towards the stowage box?

Sorry if terminology is not 100%!

Thanks

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  • Good Morning, I had the same problem when I fitted my dash cam.  I eventually piggy backed to no 45 (Windscreen Wipers). No problems since.   Good luck, Liam  

  • Thanks, i have connected it to no 43 as there was no fuse in 45 for some reason, and it works! 

  • FitMyDashCam
    FitMyDashCam

    Send me a message, I can help with all of this.   Fitted a Thinkware T700 to mine the day I got it; the power cabling is much the same as the X Series from BlackVue.

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Lucky have a carport so was under cover nice n dry...... Don't worry about terminology I'm as bad.... So yes the sound proofing (the felty type stuff yeah?) underneath there are plenty of gaps to put the wiring in. This was the easiest part of the lot underneath and across to the right hand fuse box. So along the roof you can just prise it open just enough for the wiring to push through, where it can then be held enough. Going down the left pillar then, again prising the plastic trim just enough for the wire, then pushing the rest of the wire down near enough prises open the trim as you go down.  It's also covered by the rubber door seal. 

 

Then before cutting across underneath the dash from left to right, theres a joint between the pillar trim and the floor trim, ended up tucking the cable between the joint, and under the dash, tucked under then all the way from left to right. 

 

I'll do a quick video tomorrow and put it up on YouTube. 

Edited by ryan-vrs

Thanks for the info that will further reduce risk of problems!

I am still deciding on a dash cam but have a hard wire kit and hope to do it next week.

  • 5 weeks later...

Have fitted the Next base Dashcam complete with rear camera. Took ages but very pleased with the result especially the rear camera wiring under the boot trim, through the boot grommet, headlining down the left side floor and up the A pillar. 3 hours but worth it.  Have connected it to a permanent live as it has a "parking mode"

Problem now is I'm getting "charge the battery by driving" 

So, what to do. Revert to a switched live? Maybe remove shunt resistor? Leave as is?

Car is only 5 months old. It's never failed to start so I believe the Dashcam is powering down at some point but my concern is fort the battery's health.

All suggestions welcome.

 

Just for completeness,  fitted the dash-cam a couple of weeks ago and all is OK.

 

FWIW I piggy-backed on to fuse 43,  bought a cigarette socket and used the supplied lead as a voltage reducer.  Fed lead with a thick wire across to LH side and up and across windscreen as advised.  All invisible except about 20mm across to the lower door seal but does not show as both cable and plastic are black!

Tucked excess cable in space with cable ties.

PS I got the tip to use socket with original cable from a local professional fitter, he did not like to use Ebay power converters!

Hope the above may help others.

 

   

  • 5 months later...

Hi guys

when new Kamiq arrives I’ll be fitting a Nextbase unit. Karoq had dealer installed Kenwood unit. Be aware that some insurers regard a hard wired dash cam as a notifiable vehicle modification. Discussing this with my insurers they said if easily removed would not need notified ( he meant plugged into a 12v socket. The Nextbase head unit can easily be slipped out for the mag mount so should not cause this picky issue

46 minutes ago, Grumpy Geaser said:

Hi guys

when new Kamiq arrives I’ll be fitting a Nextbase unit. Karoq had dealer installed Kenwood unit. Be aware that some insurers regard a hard wired dash cam as a notifiable vehicle modification. Discussing this with my insurers they said if easily removed would not need notified ( he meant plugged into a 12v socket. The Nextbase head unit can easily be slipped out for the mag mount so should not cause this picky issue

 

I have had no end of trouble with my Nextbase camera. I tried powering it from the usb c sockets (I don't have the one by the mirror), and the camera would work for a while then switch off. I tried using a 12V bullet adaptor, again no luck. It appeared from the lights on the camera that, whilst recording, the power supply was not supplying enough power. So I bought a 2 x 3 amp power supply (original 2.1 amp). Still no luck. Then I bought a high capacity lead. It then worked OK. Changing back to either the original power supply or lead and it failed again. The issue for me was that as the socket was permanently live, that there may be some trouble with battery drain. So I decided to transfer the camera to our other car which has a switched 12V socket, and it is fine.

 

I replaced the Nextbase in the Karoq with a Viofo camera, which came with a 2 x 3 amp power supply and a hefty cable. Connected to one of the usb c sockets, and it works absolutely fine. It also has the advantage that it will take much larger capacity SD cards, giving plenty of recording time.

 

I hope this may be helpful to anyone having difficulty with a Nextbase camera.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 05/09/2024 at 17:14, Routemaster1461 said:

 

I have had no end of trouble with my Nextbase camera. I tried powering it from the usb c sockets (I don't have the one by the mirror), and the camera would work for a while then switch off. I tried using a 12V bullet adaptor, again no luck. It appeared from the lights on the camera that, whilst recording, the power supply was not supplying enough power. So I bought a 2 x 3 amp power supply (original 2.1 amp). Still no luck. Then I bought a high capacity lead. It then worked OK. Changing back to either the original power supply or lead and it failed again. The issue for me was that as the socket was permanently live, that there may be some trouble with battery drain. So I decided to transfer the camera to our other car which has a switched 12V socket, and it is fine.

 

I replaced the Nextbase in the Karoq with a Viofo camera, which came with a 2 x 3 amp power supply and a hefty cable. Connected to one of the usb c sockets, and it works absolutely fine. It also has the advantage that it will take much larger capacity SD cards, giving plenty of recording time.

 

I hope this may be helpful to anyone having difficulty with a Nextbase camera.

Interesting observation re car sockets. The Karoq socket is permanently live the one in my wife’s Citigo is switched with the ignition. Her Nextbase unit is just plugged into that socket. Will be interesting to see what socketed is available when I get the new Kamiq - thanks for the heads up

 

  • 1 year later...

Have yet to fit my dash cam, got a hard wire kit off Ebay which includes 3 different size piggy back fuses, going by previous experiences with garages and MOT stations they have an aversion to dash cams and insist on immobilising them when working on the vehicle, thats where the magnetic mount of the Nextbase is an advantage.

ps It must be 5 years since the sd card was formatted, didnt know it was to be something regular

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