The inside of your engine does not need cleaning, modern oils contain an additive pack that keeps the engine internally clean.

 

Petrol engines do not suffer the blowby that diesels do so the oil stays cleaner for longer anyway.

 

Snake oil companies need to keep selling their snake oil or they go out of business.

 

I don't know of ANY additive that is not included in modern oil additive packs, any additive that gives an oil a testable advantage no matter how small is already included.

 

Even fuel additives are no longer really useful since the advent of direct injection, you can't clean the inlet tract if the fuel is being injected directly into the cylinder and the cylinder is self cleaning like a pyrolytic oven.

 

This obsession with hidden cleanliness is how this guff is sold, shonky old American V8's may still get grubby but as stated regular oil and filter changes are really all that's needed.

18 minutes ago, Wino said:

@xman how big a job is tensioner swap on these, please?

I haven't done one myself, Skoda dealer did mine. But from what I gather its simply unscrew and fit new, it round the back of the block so access may be a little difficult.

 

Not sure what procedure or precautions needed if fitting a new tensioner to a worn chain setup (initial start up)

 

Also need to check if the new tensioner design is compatible with the chain kit currently in place as normally all parts are changed, there are two types and probably not interchangeable (different guides)

 

Revised style https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03f109507f-chain-tensioner-16935.html

 

Original style https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03f109507b-chain-tensioner-20404.html

 

Some more info here

http://replace-timing-belt.com/how-to-replace-timing-chain-on-audi-a3-1-2-tfsi-2009-2012/

 

I strongly advise against the use of any flushing products. It may damage the engine. Particularly one with a turbo and hpfp driven off the camshaft.

Thanks for the info xman, looks very easy to fit compared to the whole timing case removal that the HTP requires!

Suffix D or F by the looks of it, from previous discussion of engine build date on page 3

 

 

sepulchrave I'm with you, but you're allowing for reasonable user compliance that isn't always there and as I put earlier diesels are in a level of overall filth that is way out from petrol.

 

I've no idea of chemistry or am an oil expert but I'd be very pleased to hear about all these additives as oil companies are very tight lipped about what's in their products, the Safety Data Sheets only give general ideas and the additive packs vary better the blenders oil range let alone compared with their competitors.  As with hi-fi, beyond the base level there are greatly diminishing returns stepping up levels.

 

The fuel additive I mentioned was for my 1973 car without injectors on it's crude British engine from 1959.

 

The GDI engines do present a problem for themselves with carbon and keeping clean and despite me being used to my old crude engine I find the 1.2 TSI engine and other stuff in the engine bay in my wife's Fabia Mk3 to come out with strange and distracting noises but it is a 1.2 turbo (lower turbo too) and it has all these intrusive computer programs telling it what to do so if it doesn't sound too bad and goes away in a reasonable time I don't worry.  And my wife's car only gets Dealership oil (whatever that might be in reality) and whatever petrol is cheapest where she might be at or is going, it's her car not mine.

 

Edited 26 November, 20214 yr by nta16

5 hours ago, Wino said:

@xman how big a job is tensioner swap on these, please?

It's literally a bolt sticking out the engine block. I don't think you'd need to do anything apart from unscrew it and put the new one in. Literally 90 second job. I could be wrong 

6 hours ago, AnnoyingPentium said:

 

Wouldn't it just be easier doing the "Italian tune-up" on the car to clear carbon deposits anyway?

will be doing this money to be safe

 

5 hours ago, xman said:

Reading this thread, I don't think there is anything wrong with your chain.

 

Even with the revised chain and tensioner its possible to experience a brief chain rattle on start or more seriously a loud machine gun clatter

 

I've witnessed this on many occasions on 2 engines one 2011 with the revised kit, and another late 2013.

 

Two reasons behind this

 

1)  A brief (<2 secs) rattle at startup is possible because although the hydraulic tensioner is extended with oil pressure, there is also a ratchet mechanism incorporated. This is stepped, so its possible for it to slip back up to one step when stood, slightly loosening the guides. On earlier revisions, this ratchet was quite weak and could slip back or even strip completely and become useless. The new tensioner also extends to a longer length than the early one.

 

2) More seriously when the engine has turned backward or put in a situation where reverse torque has been applied. This happens for instance where the car is parked in a forward gear while facing uphill, transmitting a turning force in the reverse direction.  Perhaps you put the car in gear while you changed the filter and pushed the car back a bit, it only requires the slightest movement.....

 

This has the effect of tightening the chain and exerting excessive force on the adjustable guide,  forcing the tensioner back and simultaneously allowing the chain to go slack on the non adjustable side. This is quite a dangerous situation that could lead to chain detachment on the bottom sprocket depending on how stretched it is.

 

So, if you hear a really LOUD machine gun / death rattle on start up, SWITCH OFF IMMEDIATELY. Then restart and chances are all will be quiet as the chain will have engaged in the sprocket properly and oil pressure will have tensioned the adjustable side as you turned off.

 

There is an official method of measuring chain stretch and this involves removing the hydraulic actuator and measuring the position of the guide with a depth gauge.

However this is more about fobbing off a customer in my opinion.

 

A loud regular tick, rpm related is normally from the high pressure pump more audible at tick over and nothing to worry about.

 

Some misleading information about the oil filter, there is no non-return valve (thats in the oil pump), and the servicing drain down arrangement is a combination of the sprung wide O washer closing off the drain orifice in the oil housing, the smiley mouth in the pic below ..

 

There is a bypass valve built in the filter as most canister filters have, that opens to prevent loss of pressure when the filter is blocked but not relevant in this discussion.

 

I strongly advise against the use of the cup socket for tightening the filter as its really easy to overtighten which you will regret when it comes to removal when the O washer has swollen making it difficult to remove. Hand tight is fine.

 

I presume you have the correct filter, if you give us the exact part no you use I will check it is the later style.

Forget all about the carbon build up/flushing rubbish discussed earlier (unless its been totally neglected and done over 40,000 miles on the same oil) Best way to clean an engine internally is simply change the oil. (504.00 or 502.00)

Hi Xman, Thank you so much for the info, that is educating me to say the least!  Hand tight, i love it!

 

This is the filter i got, from ECP

14 minutes ago, Meridion said:

will be doing this money to be safe

 

 

Might cost you a wee bit in petrol, but that's the least of your worries.

5 hours ago, xman said:

I haven't done one myself, Skoda dealer did mine. But from what I gather its simply unscrew and fit new, it round the back of the block so access may be a little difficult.

 

Not sure what procedure or precautions needed if fitting a new tensioner to a worn chain setup (initial start up)

 

Also need to check if the new tensioner design is compatible with the chain kit currently in place as normally all parts are changed, there are two types and probably not interchangeable (different guides)

 

Revised style https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03f109507f-chain-tensioner-16935.html

 

Original style https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03f109507b-chain-tensioner-20404.html

 

Some more info here

http://replace-timing-belt.com/how-to-replace-timing-chain-on-audi-a3-1-2-tfsi-2009-2012/

 

I strongly advise against the use of any flushing products. It may damage the engine. Particularly one with a turbo and hpfp driven off the camshaft.

I was hoping a stiffer new tensioner would make up for the lack of tension when starting the engine on a morning. Pure speculation i guess

35 minutes ago, Meridion said:

This is the filter i got, from ECP

 

That filter is ok, its the correct type

I'm a big fan of the Italian tune-up but you don't do it if the car isn't running reasonably well or you suspect there is a problem.

 

ETA: I was still typing whilst xman posted so a bit of wasted ink but here for reference now anyway.

 

The Bosch F 026 407 183 oil filter is on Mann Filters cross-reference as W712/94. -https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/oenumbersresult/63085465726112021203127

 

Bolshy Bosch parts look up doesn't even list Skoda, only VW but elsewhere Bosch P7183 (last four digits of) F 026 407 183 cross-references to W712/94.

 

And I might have missed it but coat the new oil filter with fresh clean oil before fitting it - (grandma, eggs).

 

Edited 26 November, 20214 yr by nta16

1 hour ago, Meridion said:

It's literally a bolt sticking out the engine block. I don't think you'd need to do anything apart from unscrew it and put the new one in. Literally 90 second job. I could be wrong 

 

If it's that simple fair enough but still £30 and you want a good quality replacement part otherwise you could be taking out a functioning part to replace it with one that might not be so well made and cause more problems now or later and/or early replacement of itself.  I've no idea about these parts but I can assure you so modern made parts can go from poor to ****-poor, crap and abysmal.

  

Edited 26 November, 20214 yr by nta16

On 07/11/2021 at 11:46, Meridion said:

Maybe this video helps 

I had a single tough leaf in my heater fan that made a din like that

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

I'm a big fan of the Italian tune-up but you don't do it if the car isn't running reasonably well or you suspect there is a problem.

 

ETA: I was still typing whilst xman posted so a bit of wasted ink but here for reference now anyway.

 

The Bosch F 026 407 183 oil filter is on Mann Filters cross-reference as W712/94. -https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/oenumbersresult/63085465726112021203127

 

Bolshy Bosch parts look up doesn't even list Skoda, only VW but elsewhere Bosch P7183 (last four digits of) F 026 407 183 cross-references to W712/94.

 

And I might have missed it but coat the new oil filter with fresh clean oil before fitting it - (grandma, eggs).

 

I did not do the coating 😬 I was used to filters that had the thin rubber o ring seal at the bottom of the housing thread. Never occurred to me to put it on this wide one! 

 

Thanks for the research! Bunch of amazing helpful lads on here!

Meridion, don't worry about it, you've got a dipstick to tell you if you're losing (or burning) oil.  British Leyland had their engines self-flushing - constant oil change and protection of the underside of the vehicle, how's that engineering! 😊

 

I personally didn't do research as such as I've used all the links before, I've looked up oils and oil filters for mates, that's how I know that some databases on them are full of errors and on (at least one) manufaturers' own websites can have error(s).

 

BTW I wasn't suggesting you tip a can of treacle into your engine at every service just a one-off good quality flush cleaner if it eased your mind.

 

For cars new to someone I always suggest a rolling check or work as required equivalent to a 36k-mile service ,or 6 years I suppose on these cars now, whilst at the same time regularly using them to iron out any wrinkles and find what needs doing.  Most people know very little of the history of the old car they buy and I've seen very few truly full service histories most are regular services (oil changes really ) when new and then intermittent and/or tardy servicing with repairs when required.

 

If you carry out a full service check at least you know you have a better start with the car and I think putting more time and effort in at the start can save you lots more time and effort from there.  I'd sooner spend more time getting everything sorted and clean at the start so that then it's jus maintenance.

 

Much or most servicing, maintenance and repairs often just boil down to cleaning and lubricating, certainly that's what each oil and filter change is about so your first one or few want to be as thorough as possible or needed.

 

 These smaller engines, already under stress from the turbos will often be doing a lot of short journeys and/or around town/cities so are probably working a lot harder than a bigger engine especially longer journeys and on multi-lane roads - especially those wide big engined Mercs. 😁

 

16 hours ago, nta16 said:

Meridion, don't worry about it, you've got a dipstick to tell you if you're losing (or burning) oil.  British Leyland had their engines self-flushing - constant oil change and protection of the underside of the vehicle, how's that engineering! 😊

 

I personally didn't do research as such as I've used all the links before, I've looked up oils and oil filters for mates, that's how I know that some databases on them are full of errors and on (at least one) manufaturers' own websites can have error(s).

 

BTW I wasn't suggesting you tip a can of treacle into your engine at every service just a one-off good quality flush cleaner if it eased your mind.

 

For cars new to someone I always suggest a rolling check or work as required equivalent to a 36k-mile service ,or 6 years I suppose on these cars now, whilst at the same time regularly using them to iron out any wrinkles and find what needs doing.  Most people know very little of the history of the old car they buy and I've seen very few truly full service histories most are regular services (oil changes really ) when new and then intermittent and/or tardy servicing with repairs when required.

 

If you carry out a full service check at least you know you have a better start with the car and I think putting more time and effort in at the start can save you lots more time and effort from there.  I'd sooner spend more time getting everything sorted and clean at the start so that then it's jus maintenance.

 

Much or most servicing, maintenance and repairs often just boil down to cleaning and lubricating, certainly that's what each oil and filter change is about so your first one or few want to be as thorough as possible or needed.

 

 These smaller engines, already under stress from the turbos will often be doing a lot of short journeys and/or around town/cities so are probably working a lot harder than a bigger engine especially longer journeys and on multi-lane roads - especially those wide big engined Mercs. 😁

 

ohhhhhh the old purring v6 mere 😞 the only real option is to get a petrol v6 , i don't have a choice  

 

Does this sound comprehensive? (done all filters already)

 

 

• All filters - Oil, air, cabin, fuel (already done)
• All liquids - Coolant, engine oil (done), brake (&clutch) oil, gearbox oil, power steering
• Throttle cleaning
• Spark plugs (need to check service history again for when last done)
• Both thermostats, should I replace them as a preventive measure or just wait for them to die?

Just replace the spark plugs with Iridium plugs if they haven't already been done.

 

Other than that you're golden.

As long as they're done thoroughly - but you've concentrated on the relatively unimportant engine.

 

Priority should be on brakes, steering, suspension, wheels (and all include tyres), essential electrics (lights, wipers/washers, horn, etc.,  - so also battery condition and charge), seatbelts /safety fittings and glass areas (windows ,mirrors, washers/wipes), reflective number plates (part of see and been seen).

 

For thermostats, if they are plastic or plastic housing you might want to change them but if you do a thorough cleaning (dare I put cleaner) or change of coolant and the thermostat are separate and metal they you may want to stay with them.  I don't know how much with your system you can clean it and flush, back-flush and flush, don't forget to open the heater fully before starting.

 

For the engine add check/clean all sensors and check exhaust  - and included in all spannering-up all fittings and lubricating locks and hinges as required.

 

That's all I can think of.

 

A petrol V6 engine is fine but two short of a proper engine of course.  😉

 

19 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Just replace the spark plugs with Iridium plugs if they haven't already been done.

 

Other than that you're golden.

Er, far from it, see my post, the engine is one of the least important things on a vehicle.

 

30 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Er, far from it, see my post, the engine is one of the least important things on a vehicle.

 

 

Newsflash:

 

I was replying to the OP's question:

 

1 hour ago, Meridion said:

ohhhhhh the old purring v6 mere 😞 the only real option is to get a petrol v6 , i don't have a choice  

 

Does this sound comprehensive? (done all filters already)

 

 

• All filters - Oil, air, cabin, fuel (already done)
• All liquids - Coolant, engine oil (done), brake (&clutch) oil, gearbox oil, power steering
• Throttle cleaning
• Spark plugs (need to check service history again for when last done)
• Both thermostats, should I replace them as a preventive measure or just wait for them to die?

 

Reading comprehension suggests the towering wall of text you wrote may be TLDR

 

This isn't my first rodeo, I've been here solving peoples problems for ten years, you need to keep it concise and to the point.

sepulchrave, I appreciate what you've put (had to look up TLDR tho', and knew the news before the newsflash).  AFAICS this isn't a site where fast questions and instant answer are always the norm, and I do realise some view on small screens but there's nothing wrong with different approaches and different views, opinions, methods and experience.

 

Those that don't want my long-winded more comprehensive ways do, can and will ignore them.

 

I'm sure we can agree to disagree with good humour, and even possibly now and again agree, no doubt see you round the block again in the future as I think like me you might have been round a good few times.   Cheers.  👍

 

Edited 27 November, 20214 yr by nta16
spelling

On 27/11/2021 at 17:59, nta16 said:

sepulchrave, I appreciate what you've put (had to look up TLDR tho', and knew the news before the newsflash).  AFAICS this isn't a site where fast questions and instant answer are always the norm, and I do realise some view on small screens but there's nothing wrong with different approaches and different views, opinions, methods and experience.

 

Those that don't want my long-winded more comprehensive ways do, can and will ignore them.

 

I'm sure we can agree to disagree with good humour, and even possibly now and again agree, no doubt see you round the block again in the future as I think like me you might have been round a good few times.   Cheers.  👍

 

Now I know the cars definitely been looked after, the previous owners surname was LightFoot 😁😁

Great stuff.  What bit of paper is that then?

 

Just now, nta16 said:

Great stuff.  What bit of paper is that then?

 

Service manual 

Very good condition and well kept, from the days when such things were given with new cars - annoying and a lot less useful in the ether stuff now.

 

So how are you now getting along with the car/combi/touring/shooting back, any knocking noises (ours makes lots of strange and very internment noises from the engine bay)?