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How much time do you warm-up your Felicia?


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Sorry I'd forgotten how corrupt things might be there.  For different reasons tanker drivers is a sore subject over here, luckily we have other problems and distractions from this. 😑

 

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4 hours ago, roottoot said:

Fuel has markers added so that it's source can be traced.   

The inspection is done at the gas station, if a positive sample is found due to bureaucracy the fine is late to be applied, thete will be an appeal latter an examination of the 2nd sample then a court and after years the reduced (not the inicial) fine will be paid. Fuel mafia, check, government employees, politicians involvement, reduced or deleted fines etc it's a long and bitter story.

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Update from ECU-chip:

 

Tomorrow morning i will have my Trusty back with new programme, i am anxious to test it in city traffic where my Felicia had the problem and see if in the ''after the shift'' cold start will show the same phenomenon with high rpm.

In Dynamometer where the tuner tested it things maybe look ideal but let's see on real conditions.

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HappySkoda, a mate rang me today because he needed a hand pushing his car back into his garage with difficult access.  He was with the car waiting for recovery on the road.  It is a 1996 (year) English sports car and has only ever broken down once before in his 24/25 years of ownership (fuel pump IIRC).

 

Before he got back home he rang someone he knows that deals with engines and diagnostics for race and track cars (including ex-F1) this chap told him what to try, if I had told my mate the same he would not have believed me and understood how it could possible help.

 

The suggestion made by the chap that deals with engines and diagnostics for race and track cars (including ex-F1) was another version of the following. -

 

Doing This Will RESET Your Car & Fix It For FREE -

 

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22 hours ago, nta16 said:

 

Doing This Will RESET Your Car & Fix It For FREE -

 

 

Every time we change our battery or every time a mechanic disconnects the negative pole to work is the same.

This may delete an error but if there is a problem (which only a Vcds can reveal) a myriad of that kind of ECU-reset won't fix the problem (speaking by my own experience).

 

Inside the 2 ECU plugs are dozens of pins, maybe one or some of them had that green colour or corrosion, a contack cleaner (NOT a WD-40) spray will help the most.

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On 22/12/2021 at 17:22, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Every time we change our battery or every time a mechanic disconnects the negative pole to work is the same.

Possibly but not necessarily might depend on how quick and if full discharge is done it is simply the very high level tech of "turning it off and then on again".

 

 

On 22/12/2021 at 17:22, D.FYLAKTOS said:

This may delete an error but if there is a problem (which only a Vcds can reveal) a myriad of that kind of ECU-reset won't fix the problem (speaking by my own experience).

Depends what the problem is but no it will not resolve all issues and an issue may return if ECU reset was not effective against it.  The idea is it is free, quick and easy to try and never assume because there is an issue you know about that there cannot be other issues you do not know about.

 

 

On 22/12/2021 at 17:22, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Inside the 2 ECU plugs are dozens of pins, maybe one or some of them had that green colour or corrosion, a contack cleaner (NOT a WD-40) spray will help the most.

Totally agree, to me this is another very basic early step and part of the clean and/or lubricate that cover much of servicing, maintenance and repairs on cars, it is also often quick and easy to do and virtually free, I would use electrical contacts cleaner and if required careful brushing.

  

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Update from ECU-chip:

 

The old programme was deleted and a new one installed while the car was on the Dynamometer.

Now the car from the first crank works (idling) one click smoother.

The rpm do not raise and drop after a gear change so abruptly as before.

I feel i have more torque on the low-middle rpm (not tested on higher rpm).

The fuel consumption is ''one click" lower but it's too early to have a full conclusion, i will make a 100km tank filling, a zeroing of the TC-6 and after at least 100km i will have the verdict.

 

Unfortunately due to the quarantine and the Covid-19 restrictions i could travel in Highway for about 1,5 year and the car was ''clogged".

I had to make an adjustment to the coolant because i think i have it too thick.

The Bosch lambda sensor is OK but the programmer insisted that i should keep the original.

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https://youtu.be/sfT5WTbgLdI

 

A proper, correct cold start by my opinion As i said, it must be trolling me. 3 different scenarios for cold start,  for what reason?? 

 

A couple of minutes to warm up static and catch temperature all the metals and every part of the engine without any load, and then go. This is what i do. 

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Believe it or not the programmer asked me if i have my old lambda, i said yes and he suggest to me to connect the old one back.

My old has 80.000 Km of use so should i put him back for another 20.000 Km? (they say 100.000 is the limit for a Lambda sensor).

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3 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Believe it or not the programmer asked me if i have my old lambda, i said yes and he suggest to me to connect the old one back.

Yes and perhaps if you can get a proper Japanese made sensor it'd be better and last longer, do not believe all German engineering is good, it is often very much overrated.

 

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4 hours ago, HappySkoda said:

https://youtu.be/sfT5WTbgLdI

Was you parked with the car or exhaust tail pipe near a wall or building as the exhaust sounded a little as if there could be a minor blow or it may be that is just the normal sound and the recording and playback may it sound different, or it is just me and my ears.

 

 

4 hours ago, HappySkoda said:

A couple of minutes to warm up static and catch temperature all the metals and every part of the engine without any load, and then go. This is what i do. 

For checking out for this thread fair enough but about 5-10 seconds after starting to check all is normal you want to drive off as you are wasting fuel and not getting the systems running to where they normally operate, you want the warm up and driving to be brisk to get to full operating temperature as soon as possible with reasoned use, not going like a bat of of hell but also not dawdling and labouring the car.

 

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8 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Was you parked with the car or exhaust tail pipe near a wall or building as the exhaust sounded a little as if there could be a minor blow or it may be that is just the normal sound and the recording and playback may it sound different, or it is just me and my ears.

Woow!! I have to admit that your listening is Great!! And yes, indeed i was parked next to a wall on my right!!  🤯🤯😁😁

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Not really, my wife would have said if there was actually a blow and how far forward or  back it was - and the colour of the wall. 🤣

 

She identifies when things like brakes, exhaust, engine and wheel bearings are getting noisy, decades of running old over-priced and over-valued old cars called "classics".  Many years of listen to powerful hi-fi set ups in a small room probably didn't help my hearing either.

 

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@HappySkoda : As for the sound from the engine room which actually is from the clutch, when you press the pedal the bracket with the red arrow moves but when you release the pedal sometimes does not go back in his proper position at 100% so when the car is idling (for example in a red light) you hear a sound like ''kar-kar-kar" but when you instantly press a little bit the pedal (with N gear) the noise stops immediately.

Put some lithium grease at the end of the wire (yellow arrow) ,this trick will help a lot.

 

kv0AwRp.jpg

 

Today i removed about 0,5 litre of my coolant mixture and replace it with distilled water, i will do it after few days another one time because my coolant is too thick.

Yes someone may say this increases the boiling point BUT increases also the time of the coolant reset to come to normal temperature (let's say it as ''cooling the coolant").

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1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Today i removed about 0,5 litre of my coolant mixture and replace it with distilled water, i will do it after few days another one time because my coolant is too thick.

 

I don't understand "the coolant mixture is too thick". Ethylene glycol has a very similar viscosity (thickness) to water.

Quote

Yes someone may say this increases the boiling point BUT increases also the time of the coolant reset to come to normal temperature (let's say it as ''cooling the coolant").

This is complete b@11ocks! Ethylene glycol has a specific heat capacity about half that of water, so will heat and cool faster.

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58 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

I don't understand "the coolant mixture is too thick". Ethylene glycol has a very similar viscosity (thickness) to water.

 

He is writing in his second language, having lived & worked abroad for many years and recieving clients of all nationalities I am no longer phased when I hear or read something that makes no sense, I try to work out what they were trying to say, in this case I am confident it would be "I have too high a concentration of anti-freeze in my coolant mixture"

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2 hours ago, J.R. said:

He is writing in his second language, having lived & worked abroad for many years and recieving clients of all nationalities I am no longer phased when I hear or read something that makes no sense, I try to work out what they were trying to say,

________________

 

In this case I am confident it would be "I have too high a concentration of anti-freeze in my coolant mixture"

1) I am Greek (100% Native) with no traveling aboard experiences and i learn english by myself with a Course book and a dictionary.

If someone Non Greek can manage to login and participate to a Greek Skoda forum (i can provide him the 2 links) writing in Greek language (in the same way of learning) better than i do english here, then i publicly commit to accept my loss and delete my account in this forum.

 

2) Yes that's what i meant, you're da Man! 😎

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Well done, I know how hard it is even with total immersion over 15 years, I am in awe of those who can do far better  without any exposure to the language and with nothing more than books etc.

 

You are an inspiration!

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On 24/12/2021 at 14:18, J.R. said:

He is writing in his second language, having lived & worked abroad for many years and recieving clients of all nationalities I am no longer phased when I hear or read something that makes no sense, I try to work out what they were trying to say, in this case I am confident it would be "I have too high a concentration of anti-freeze in my coolant mixture"

https://www.skodaclubpeloponnhsou.gr/2021/09/nea-fabia.html?m=1

Oh really? Try to read this and try to participate in the forum writing in greek language. Just try and see how "easy" it is. 

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2 hours ago, HappySkoda said:

I cheated and just used Google Translate, some excellent articles and posts on ECU resets by disconnecting the battery and discharging all the systems, and on the computer program problems when the car battery gets too low, and best of all which GL5s can go into which gearboxes!

 

‘It’s Greek To Me’, Meaning & Context - https://nosweatshakespeare.com/quotes/famous/its-greek-to-me/

 

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