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Scout Haldex Differential Noise

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Last update from my side, hopefully :) 

 

I got my car back, no more noises from the diff or suspension, and no ESP lights on the dash anymore.

 

Recap:

* The tapered roller bearing in the diff was worn out. The rest of the bearings had no signs of wear.

* I believe that each bearing in the diff has its part number, so if somebody else is in this situation, remove it first and check your P/N. Mine was LM503349.

* The AWD module( 0CQ 907 554 H ) had issues with its sealing which caused water to enter inside partially damage it. Thankfully was repaired by electronics workshop and sealed back with new durable silicon.

* While the shop was soldering my module, I called the local Skoda dealer for the price of a new one and they said it's superseded by new version with OEM number 0CQ 907 554 J. (I won't share the price they gave me, because it's not correct, you can google the part number and see the prices around you)

* During the initial alignment, 6 of the alignment bolts in rear were left loose.. which means all of them(not sure how this could happen). This caused metal suspension noises.

* All the bolts are tight now, diff and its control module are on the car and everything seems to be fine now - no noises or errors from the AWD module in VCDS.

Edited by fr1nklyn

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  • Sure! The shop which removed the diff is the VAG service center Elbatron https://forum.vwclub.bg/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=44549&start=180   They don’t repair diffs and transmissions

  • I believe some members here chose Febi and Swag.   Btw I sent my differential for rebuild. It was that roller bearing as I had thought at the beginning. The workshop took me €150 for rebuild

  • Cradle is loose  or differential is loose in the cradle .

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Let's hope it is correctly aligned, maybe the fitter left them loose knowing it needed a  4 wheel alignment but they skipped it.

 

Does it track straight ?

4 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Let's hope it is correctly aligned, maybe the fitter left them loose knowing it needed a  4 wheel alignment but they skipped it.

 

Does it track straight ?


That was my theory as well. But then why the aligner didn’t tightened them?! Really can’t tell..

 

I have to do alignment once again as advised by the garage which fitted the diff and its module, but the car tracks straight now and have no issues so far, so I want to enjoy the moment 😂

On 18/07/2023 at 20:25, fr1nklyn said:

Last update from my side, hopefully :) 

 

I got my car back, no more noises from the diff or suspension, and no ESP lights on the dash anymore.

 

Recap:

* The tapered roller bearing in the diff was worn out. The rest of the bearings had no signs of wear.

* I believe that each bearing in the diff has its part number, so if somebody else is in this situation, remove it first and check your P/N. Mine was LM503349.

* The AWD module( 0CQ 907 554 H ) had issues with its sealing which caused water to enter inside partially damage it. Thankfully was repaired by electronics workshop and sealed back with new durable silicon.

* While the shop was soldering my module, I called the local Skoda dealer for the price of a new one and they said it's superseded by new version with OEM number 0CQ 907 554 J. (I won't share the price they gave me, because it's not correct, you can google the part number and see the prices around you)

* During the initial alignment, 6 of the alignment bolts in rear were left loose.. which means all of them(not sure how this could happen). This caused metal suspension noises.

* All the bolts are tight now, diff and its control module are on the car and everything seems to be fine now - no noises or errors from the AWD module in VCDS.

Which are regarded as alignment bolts ? There are only 8 bolts that hold the subrame in  and of those ony 2 have shoulders on them . Aingment  or tracking would normally be by lower wishbone bolts .  very strange

  • 1 month later...

 

Update from me. I paid Pilbeam (Hailsham, Sussex) about £1100 and they took out my rear diff. Car sat for two weeks or so at their yard whilst Bexhill Gearboxes serviced the diff (they fitted one new bearing I believe, and the £380 they charged was in the Pilbeam invoice). Pilbeam put it all back together again. Bill included fitting a new coupling (which I bought from Autodoc for £140 I think). Car is now quiet and going well (although I still have my issue, see another thread, with my lurching/eccentric sensation at ~1700rpm in third, ~1600 in fourth, and odd at other times – car booked in to Diplocks Injectors, Hailsham on 15th to check fuel delivery system). Diff fixed £1250  :O)

  • 2 weeks later...
On 18/07/2023 at 22:25, fr1nklyn said:

Last update from my side, hopefully :) 

 

I got my car back, no more noises from the diff or suspension, and no ESP lights on the dash anymore.

 

Recap:

* The tapered roller bearing in the diff was worn out. The rest of the bearings had no signs of wear.

* I believe that each bearing in the diff has its part number, so if somebody else is in this situation, remove it first and check your P/N. Mine was LM503349.

* The AWD module( 0CQ 907 554 H ) had issues with its sealing which caused water to enter inside partially damage it. Thankfully was repaired by electronics workshop and sealed back with new durable silicon.

* While the shop was soldering my module, I called the local Skoda dealer for the price of a new one and they said it's superseded by new version with OEM number 0CQ 907 554 J. (I won't share the price they gave me, because it's not correct, you can google the part number and see the prices around you)

* During the initial alignment, 6 of the alignment bolts in rear were left loose.. which means all of them(not sure how this could happen). This caused metal suspension noises.

* All the bolts are tight now, diff and its control module are on the car and everything seems to be fine now - no noises or errors from the AWD module in VCDS.

Greetings fr1nklyn,

 

May I know the name of the repair shop where your car was fixed? I am based in Sofia and I have similar issue with my 2015 Octavia 1.6 TDI. All the shops I called told me they do not service diffs, just replace them if I manage to find one.

 

Предварително благодаря!

 

 

12 hours ago, asdzax said:

Greetings fr1nklyn,

 

May I know the name of the repair shop where your car was fixed? I am based in Sofia and I have similar issue with my 2015 Octavia 1.6 TDI. All the shops I called told me they do not service diffs, just replace them if I manage to find one.

 

Предварително благодаря!

 


Sure!

The shop which removed the diff is the VAG service center Elbatron https://forum.vwclub.bg/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=44549&start=180

 

They don’t repair diffs and transmissions, so I sent it to this workshop in Burgas which mainly work on BMWs https://www.bmw-shper.com

(I couldn’t find someone is Sofia who has tools to measure the bearing gaps, etc)

 

Most likely you won’t need, but just in case the guy who soldered my AWD module is https://avto-elektronchik.bg/contacts.html

 

I highly recommend you to change also the rear driveshaft coupling if it hasn’t been changed already. I don’t have P/N on the invoice but I think it’s 5Q0521307.

 

Ask or PM me directly if you have any questions. Good luck!

Edited by fr1nklyn

  • 2 years later...
On 25/05/2022 at 22:53, Bushlake said:

Hi.

I also had a noisy differential at my Octavia with 210000km and decided to take it apart. It was the same situation with the bearing at the right side as in the video above. Changed the bearing and checked the axial clearence and it was way too tight. To obtain the correct clearence i had to take away 0.6mm from the shims. My theory is that the "negative" clearence is the ground cause to the bearing failure and since the right side bearing is smaller its the one failing first. Damage at the bearing seems to be caused by too high pressure at the rollers. Seems unnormal so many having this noisy problem on the same type of differential from the same side bearing. New bearing was about 70€ instead of replacing entire unit for way more...

20220504_201855.jpg

Hi
I haven’t been able to find clear instructions on how to properly measure and set the preload.

Could you please give me some advice on how to do this correctly? I would like to know what exact procedure you recommend -

How much torque should the correct rotational preload achieve, or is it better to measure the axial play with a dial gauge and adjust it accordingly?
Is there a standard initial shims thickness?

Did you purchase the correct size shims online, or do they need to be custom made?

Thank you very much!

In series production, it is measured that the pinion to the ring gear is in the position determined by development.

  • 3 months later...

Hi all!

I had the same noise from the rear diff, as described above. Unfortunately, exchange of the damaged bearings didn't make it completely "quit". I don't like to perform another overhauling with unknown results. Therefore, I'm seeking for replacement.

Any outcomes from the replicas/refurbished units, sold on ebay, for 800-1000 euros?

May you recommend source for overhauled diff for reasonable price?

Thank you!

If you’re going for a second hand, try to get one from low mileage car and service the diff with good oil.

Does anyone know are the differentials 0CQ525010H and 0BR525010AB interchangeable?

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