"Take the spark plugs out tomorrow  before running the engine and shine a torch down each of the holes, looking to see if any of the piston crowns look wet."

 

Thanks Pete, will do as advised . I think I will became car expert by the time my car is back on roads.

Once again really apprecaite ur time. 

Cheers 

 

With the ECU as fitted on your car, disconnecting the battery will not do anything to reset the ECU that trick only really works on the very early cars with fuel injection 

14 minutes ago, nige8021 said:

With the ECU as fitted on your car, disconnecting the battery will not do anything to reset the ECU that trick only really works on the very early cars with fuel injection 

 

If it's a Mark 1 1.4 16V it'll work just fine.

My car details I think is below Skoda Fabia 2007 Petrol Hatchback 1.4 16V FWD I 6Y2 1390cc 74KW 100HP AUB;BBZ: Year: 2007 

Thanks @nige8021Pete & @sepulchravefor your time and help.

cheers 

Dear All , Do u all agree that it is electrical problem rather than mechanical as full throttle cars handles very nicely no misfiring etc.. 

Or do u think removing spark plugs and looking inside would throw lite about engine health, as my mechanic was confident that there were 2 issues 1. MAF and 2nd was Cat converter as he can smell unburnt petrol, he tested the car  with full throttle for long  &  was satisfied that it is not engine issue &   smoke seems white now and carbon particles does not seem much have not noticed with low throttle at least.

Please share ur views whenever coveneint..

 

Cheers 

 

 

If it was my car I would be doing a compression test to confirm the state of the piston/bore & valves also a "Sniff test" on the coolant to see if there was evidence of combustion gasses getting into the coolant and the compression test might highlight that as well, and probably as I've recently bought the kit, do a pressure test of the coolant system again this could confirm the results from the compression testing & sniff test 

29 minutes ago, raky said:

Dear All , Do u all agree that it is electrical problem rather than mechanical as full throttle cars handles very nicely no misfiring etc.. 

Or do u think removing spark plugs and looking inside would throw lite about engine health, as my mechanic was confident that there were 2 issues 1. MAF and 2nd was Cat converter as he can smell unburnt petrol, he tested the car  with full throttle for long  &  was satisfied that it is not engine issue &   smoke seems white now and carbon particles does not seem much have not noticed with low throttle at least.

Please share ur views whenever coveneint..

 

Cheers 

 

 

 

I agree it's electrical, in twelve years on here I have never heard of a 1.4 16V blowing a head gasket, or even snapping a cambelt, they are incredibly mechanically robust but the electronic systems are junk, and I repeat, there is NO MAF on this engine, please tell your clueless mechanic this and the catalyst will be just fine, petrol will clean a cat, it's oil that's bad for them.

I'd replace the ECT sensor and the precat lambda probe to start with.

Have you been checking the obvious taking the oil filler cap off to see if any mayo on it and are you noticing a film on top of the coolant as Pete says pop out the plugs and check for coolant it's a quick easy job to tick of the investigation list.

51 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

I agree it's electrical, in twelve years on here I have never heard of a 1.4 16V blowing a head gasket, or even snapping a cambelt, they are incredibly mechanically robust but the electronic systems are junk, and I repeat, there is NO MAF on this engine, please tell your clueless mechanic this and the catalyst will be just fine, petrol will clean a cat, it's oil that's bad for them.

I'd replace the ECT sensor and the precat lambda probe to start with.

 

Thanks Sepul , Much apprecaited  ur time , I had Precat bank1 sensor issues from last 3 -4 years ,  changed 2nd lambada sensor in last 2 years , bought from ebay with warranty of 2 years but was broken after 1.5 years and got replacement after that it was going fine from last 6 months. I can change ECT but my question why ECT issue was not picked up at last few days where I had only two codes P0171, P0106 ( same code were shown mechanic scans) , after changing so called MAF sensor  3 errors were popped up i.e P0322,P0107 & P0113. of course in between I had few fiddles of tests using voltmeter and connection disconnections to at least total 4 sensors I think.   I had 1-2 time battery red light while driving in last 2 years so thought to change battery and did last week , after battery change i have noticed my window motor started working again mysterously  and 2nd development is mystery for me after mechanic high rev of car for good 4- 5 minutes ( day before ) my coolant liquid has increased which is clear pink NO  MILKY... let me buy etc tomorrow and change it hope it would be straight forward. If I have circuit digram I shall see in it and seek u guys help if I don't understand.  Cheers  

 

1 hour ago, Stewartasb said:

Have you been checking the obvious taking the oil filler cap off to see if any mayo on it and are you noticing a film on top of the coolant as Pete says pop out the plugs and check for coolant it's a quick easy job to tick of the investigation list.

Thanks Stewart , Will Do  tomorrow , coolant colour was pink, I think first day I saw oil cap as well looked to me was fine but will click some photos of it will share it tomorrow. 

There is definitely some realation of me testing, removing/ plugging some sensors which may have some cable issue or been shorted by my voltmeter , will disable battery to reset the ecu , and also try to see if all are connected properly and locked just in case.

Let see how much I would be able to test tomorrow but will keep u posted guys.

Once again am grateful to each one of you for taking pain to help me. 

Thanks & kind Regards 

 

ECT sensor will not give codes, it will just tell the ECU the wrong temperature, if you disconnect it the engine might run better.

14 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

If it's a Mark 1 1.4 16V it'll work just fine.

Battery disconnect plus shorting terminal clamps together has no effect on fault codes stored in the engine ECU on my 2003 manufactured, BBY engined Polo.  Just tried it for your benefit Sep. 😊

The OP may well be able to confirm or dispute this finding on his car if he tries the same today.

Edited 3 April, 20224 yr by Pete_Ex-Wino

Dear Experts, Please find update of the Morning  :

 

1. Both terminal of battery are disconnected 

2. All visible sensors connected disconnect and reconnected clicked properly ( some had very less wire length  were very difficult )

3. Pulled all connectors cables and checked if any thing is loose , all looked well 

4. clicked photo of engine oil after opening of cap please advice if u something looks bad ( changed oil/air /oil filter march 2021 5-7k miles driven so far)

 

Next plan probably tomorrow Will  open coils and plugs and see if there is anything  in it.

 

If anybody can advice of the engine oil health based on photo on tissue paper .

 have also taken photo with unused fresh  engine oil on tissue paper as attached for ur info.

thanks advance for all help and support. 

Cheers 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 3 April, 20224 yr by raky

55 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Battery disconnect plus shorting terminal clamps together has no effect on fault codes stored in the engine ECU on my 2003 manufactured, BBY engined Polo.  Just tried it for your benefit Sep. 😊

The OP may well be able to confirm or dispute this finding on his car if he tries the same today.

 

No, but it clears the dynamic map so any bad sensor inputs will be deleted. I swear we've been round this loop before.

Later Mark 2's have non-volatile memory so it doesn't work on them.

What fault codes do you have? Post here and you never know, I might be able to help.

Dear @sepulchrave in beginning I had p0171 & P0106 changed so called MAF/MAp etc.. sensor fiddled around some sensors connectors  with voltmeter just for fun without properly grounding the meter and landed with new error codes p0322 ,p0107,p0113 , Not sure if I have messed up some ECU components, since key was on when I was testing.

Car is bad at idling but fine with full throttle was throwing very bad wet black smoke with carbon , after changing 1 sensor it has white smoke but still some carbon .

Cheers 

37 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

No, but it clears the dynamic map so any bad sensor inputs will be deleted.

Ah, the old goalpost shift, was expecting that. 

 

 

40 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

What fault codes do you have? Post here and you never know, I might be able to help.

I created two of the same faults as the OP, by disconnecting the MAP sensor. These remained after reconnecting the sensor, and discoing the battery. 

I subsequently cleared them with VCDS.  Would it have been better for me to change all the sensors? 

 

 

On 02/04/2022 at 00:42, raky said:

(99% mechanics may have technical knowledge but does not have electronics knowledge and no body have patience to test these sensors or electronics

raky you need to go to a good mechanic, probably a woman as less testosterone and ego, certainly a mechanic that spends more time  scratching their head than their arse.

 

A good mechanic with a proper level scan tool can read off the information that a good level scan tool gives and using their experience and knowledge (and sometimes training) do proper diagnosis to the problem, this not just reading off error codes and replacing sensor(s).  This will include integrating the scan tool, physical checks to electrics, electronics and mechanics.

 

By just changing sensor(s) you could just be shooting the messenger(s) rather than resolving anything plus you could be changing a good functioning reliable long lasting sensor for something that is unreliable, and as you have found already short lived, so instead of improving the situation making it worse.

 

Personally other than as perhaps a code reader I would not be putting too much faith in something like an ELM37.

 

I have no idea what the 'rubber' hose is at the start of your video in your post yesterday at 00:23 but there is some sort of marking on it, might be nothing, and also what looks like it might be cracking which again might be nothing but these are the sort of visual checks at least that a good mechanic will include (even if they do not mention them).

 

Car design and build is full of lots of compromise and stupid ideas like plastic connectors on too shorter wires in the tough environment of an engine bay is one of those compromises, some manufacturers carry out a lot more compromises than others it would seem.

 

1 hour ago, raky said:

If anybody can advice of the engine oil health based on photo on tissue paper .

Based on the photos, to me, as not even at the level of an arse-scratching mechanic, and certainly not an expert in anything, they look fine.

 

On checking connectors, did you visually check, and if required clean, internally (pins and sockets) and externally, that's where I use electrical contact cleaner and if those stupid designed connectors feel like they either will not part or break when using fingers or screwdriver a small brush and GT85 to help release them.

 

As your location is UK you will be able to perhaps find someone nearby with a better scan tool that may be able to help you at least get better scanned information, if you are near Northampton I might know someone.  Plugging a machine in and reading the information is very easy and can be done from the warmth and comfort of the cabin or inside a building with tea and biccies and doesn't involve any nasty dirtying of hands, anything that involves messing up a manicure is for yourself and others.

 

 

Much appreciated @nta16  for your offer to help , I live  north so very far from your place ,  all connectors from insides looked very well , I just opened and closed them back with click sound, last try tomorrow opening spark  plugs coils and looking inside and sharing info here.

Thought to share Elm app Torque Lite (OBD2 & Car) was able to clear all errors there was no error but started car for 1 minute car had shaky idling so switched off immediately , let see what happens after battery disconnect for few hours I shall keep it full night and discontinue my research and look for specialist. 

 

Once again much appreciated each one of you for their time and support  to share their knowledge . 

thanks 

kind regards 

raky

 

For some reason I had a feeling you were South Yorkshire which is just about East Midlands in parts, (and not "real" Yorkshire as the old Yorkshire folk will tell you), Northampton being East Midlands, Midlands or Anglia or even London depending which way you used to point the old TV aerials. 

 

Just disconnecting and reconnecting some electrical connections a good few times can sometimes help clean them up but you can not do it with these sort of connectors at this age as they would break as soon as look at you. 😄  So if they're apart and I can spray them, in a good way, why not.  

 

Sorry I've no idea what ELM app Torque Lite (OBD2 & Car) can and cannot see, whatever scan tool clearing a code is not the same necessarily as sorting the issue and just because no codes are showing does not mean the car is fine and running well, do not put all your reliance on these magic numbers and the machines that show them.  All these things are mainly computer programs, now think about it how often do computer programs need repairing themselves, then there is how good the program is anyway and how reliable the information it receives, particularly from cheap unreliable sensors, or car systems with electrical or communication wiring/connector faults.  Put all your eggs in one basket and you have scratchy omelettes.

 

It would be interesting to connect up three or four of these machines and Apps, update all and compare the figures they give from a car that's not running well, allowing for variations in when they are plugged in and the car's and other variations of back to back comparisons they should all show about the same but would they.

 

If you're disconnecting the battery you might as well charge it up at the same time, a battery in good state of charge and health will help with starting and problem solving electrical and starting issues particularly whereas a battery in low or lower state of charge and health could hinder and even add problems.  All your battery, cables, earths wires and connections want to be in good condition and clean, secure and protected for best running and results.

 

If you want the battery disconnected to clear anything (if it can be) then turn on the ignition so that the brake lights would have been working had the battery been connected and press and hold the brake pedal for say a count of five or ten, or your lucky number above five if you want.

 

Check your coolant level with the engine now 'cold' too, how does it compare to when it was last checked 'cold'.

 

Personally I have next to no knowledge to share but if I can (bear to sometimes) remember I have quite a few experiences with cars and the motor trade, unfortunate mostly, so have some basic generalisations but like ALL others I make mistakes, many times in my case and often forget or remember things arse-about-face, so check and cross reference all information you get, especially from me.

 

Edited 3 April, 20224 yr by nta16

Thanks Nigel , Please don't worry, sorry just shared info so that I can  help others about error codes and possibly solutions,  not expected that I would get help but unexpectedly I have got loads of input from this group. Thank you so much , Please don't worry I shall consult local expert soon and get it sorted . 

 

Thank you so much for you time.

 

Kind Regards 

raky

Edited 3 April, 20224 yr by raky

raky,

you've had some good advice from here, and from me, I don't always misremember or get things wrong (even if/when others think or say I have) so do consider and follow up on any/all the advice you have been given from all here.  The exhaust mess that was spewed on to your drive/hardstanding didn't look nice and something that needed sorting.

 

Good luck let us know how you get along.

 

Thanks Nigel , Will do please much appreciated for ur advice and time ,  it seems it is more than sensors issue , if it was not sensor issue earlier but now it seems it may be...

 

Cheers 

raky

7 minutes ago, raky said:

it seems it is more than sensors issue , if it was not sensor issue earlier but now it seems it may be...

Whatever it is it's probably not serious or have any lasting effects so don't be downhearted.  A good person with the help of a good scan tool and their good knowledge and experience will be able to help you, a very rough idle can be from many things which are easily sorted.

 

Dear All , Finally happy to share with you that CAR has been sorted few things possibly may have helped as listed below , but I had to start few times even after battery disconnected seems 100% data may not go but frequent starts helps  ECU to recover any previous faults in my case  multimeter mess may have been reseted by ECU , removing reconnecting some sensors may have also helped ECU to reset them. 

 

1. When I was tightening the battery back after even after tightening screws 100%  it was not holding  100% I was able to rotate the battery connector with little extra force, it means battery connectors hole was bigger even after full tight. So I have added extra thin wire to make it 100% tight. ( suspecting this could have existing issue as remembered  in old battery as well but mechanic said it is fine )

2. At least all temperature/camshaft errors were not observed till now went for ride of 2-3 miles with healthy idle & even pushed the car with high throttle , very soft sound of car. 

3. After completely  removing battery , ECU had pardoned me my mishandling of some of sensors with multimeter 

4. Seems previous issue of Bank 1 sensor has come back ( engine light ) so it could be dodge Chinese o2/lambada BANK1 sensors again broken after 4 months - 2nd in two years. I clicked some photos of live data( all mixed up don't which one was taken when , idle and with high gas)  with high low speed , fuel  was low so wanted To delay till tomorrow.

5  Added 300ml  fuel cleaner as well added in petrol just in case if carbon has struck there 

 

Lastly  SKODA temporary shocks with many errors but at the end comes out very small parts failures may be  because of age , this time I have changed battery AND map sensor  both were changed by me,  my humble mechanic had home visit did not charge but advised me that MAF sensor needed change. 

 

Lesson learned ,Lambada sensor available on ebay  are very bad , bought 1 an d another one got with replacement warranty and it was fine ,

 I have changed bank 2 sensor (o2/lambada) around 4 years back bough from euro parts and it seems it is running fine.   

 

Once again apprecaite each one of you for all help and concern for me.  

 

 

Cheers

 

 

 

 

Sorry guys , I am back to square some magic happen car drove around 20 miles without any issue very smooth ,  thought to contribute as I m getting lots of help form this group . 

Facing below issues 

1. engine light 

2. P0171 running lean  back again.( P0106 is gone after changing so called  MAf/MAp sensor) 

3. White smoke with slight watery carbon particles( till yesterday) 

4. Engine has stopped starting this morning ,cranking but not starting 

5 low fuel dashboard light comes up when try to start the engine( even though there is enough fuel to drive at least 50 miles)

6 intermittent window motor issue (  some time it does not ) 

7 Radiator fan had stopped  working 

8  Coolant is back to normal level. ( opened cap few times as advised by Pete, coolant level was reduced naturally very slowly )

 

Suspect , faulty  fuel pump , chocked fuel filter, the leak ( as advised by Pete) may be another root cause.  Hope engine is not dead. 

 

My approach would be ask mechanic to test engine pressure or check if fuel is at least coming to cylinder or not than request him to change fuel filter if still does not work then probably have to  tow to some good centre for finding fault.

 

With layman knowledge what I have ,  I think  possibly there are both electrical and mechanical issues in car and one need expertise in both to figure out.

Skoda centre are not worth as they cost fortune and expect them to get parts changed from them.

 

 I have checked there is smoke test/fault finding  facility locally to find any leak(£90 per hour) or any other  fault, it is better to change all  known cheap sensors/parts related to fuel than get testing  since who knows  how many hours these guys would take  to find fault and give me  big bill, but I may have to to go to them if nothing works out. AS sensors have life any they may need change after certain age/miles so I am ok with it.

 

  

 

Keep u posted, 

 

cheers 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 5 April, 20224 yr by raky