On 18/10/2022 at 17:01, Felix2021 said:

Edit:

One more photo - inside of the door. Haven't used the mats on reinforcement, as i don't think it resonates that much, and didn't want to add more weight to the door. They are heavy already now

 

That looks better than what I've seen from the professionals. Good job! You also did the right thing by not covering the reinforcement beams. There's always the risk water pooling if there's material on anything other than the panel itself.

Finished the boot and behind the right boot panel today. Needed two afternoons. 😅 It's quite time consuming since there is a lot of surface around the spare tire and a lot of curves and angles. A lot of cutting and adjusting to cover everything.

 

Was so into it I forgot to take pictures. 😂

 

Any advice how to get the button assembly out of the door without braking? 😞 This is the far left side. I just couldn't get it out without braking.   

 

 

54 minutes ago, TheUltraRunner said:

Any advice how to get the button assembly out of the door without braking? 😞 This is the far left side. I just couldn't get it out without braking.   

 

 

This is how I did it:

 

1. With my one hand, put my fingers in the button recess and pushed the assembly forward, making the gap at the back as wide as possible.

2. With my other hand, placed a thin plastic tool in the gap and levered the assembly up until the pictured tab catched against the frame.

 

3. With a second plastic tool, started prying the tab away from the frame while keeping upwards pressure. After a whole lot of prying, the tab released. Patience was required 😅

Thanks Jorgeminator.

 

With " push forward" you mean push in the direction towards the handle? Or towards to the inside of the car?

55 minutes ago, TheUltraRunner said:

Thanks Jorgeminator.

 

With " push forward" you mean push in the direction towards the handle? Or towards to the inside of the car?

Towards the front of the car. It's to open up the gap at the back as much as possible for the tool to slide in. A millimeter can make a big difference when there's little clearance 🙂

 

EDIT: From your previous picture, I can see that you broke the clip on the outer side (if that's your left door. That's exactly the one that was catching when I removed mine. The inside clip would somehow pop out without the need to pry it open.

Edited 21 October, 20223 yr by Jorgeminator

On 15/10/2022 at 14:00, Jorgeminator said:

Ouch 😐 I would guess that the cable comes as a complete unit, but I'm not sure.

Maybe I was lucky with my clips staying intact, did not break a single one 🤔 Some of them slid out of their door card sockets when pulling off the trim, but that actually made them easier to remove from the door after the door card came off.

I think this piece was broken before I removed the panel as there was a slight buzzing on particular roads at particular engine speed, it would disappear if you push against the door panel, basically I was going to order a new cable but managed to fix it diy and is still works and doesn't make any noise, so all good!

I managed to apply CTK Car Audio Vibration Proofing Sound Deadening Premium to all the doors, under the boot and under rear seat, the car did become a little quitter but mostly overall noise disappeared and feels like there are less vibration which is what you expect!

Some pics of the boot and the left door.

 

 

2 hours ago, TheUltraRunner said:

Some pics of the boot and the left door.

 

Well done, looks as a very accurate job! Let us know if you noticed the difference in noise. I see you added foam as well to the doors, I wonder how much difference that will make.

Thanks @Vlady I took my time for the boot. There is quite a lot of surface there. 😁

I didn't feel comfortable dismantling the window mechanism on the doors. This is why I tried to be more accurate with the foam on the door panels. 

I will do a longer drive tomorrow and I'll report back.

Gent's there are actually special openings/holes in the door card. to release the latches of the windows switch module.

Will try to take a photo on next occassion.

They are under the door handle cover, more or less in the places marked in red:

 

I know it's a photo of rear door card, but you get what i mean

 

If you want less noise, not only vibration, you need to also use foam for example in the boot.

Cannot edit previous post.

Here's pic of what i meant:

 

Just insert small screwdriver or something similar in those holes, press gently and latch is released.

Edited 22 October, 20223 yr by Felix2021

This is what I did.

 

Not sure photos were added as I do it from my phone. Will transfer photos tomorrow to my laptop and will try to attach them.

 

Hmmm didn't notice that. Thanks for pointing that out.

But can you access the two latches on the left side of the switch module (see arrows on the pictures below) through these holes?
I had issues with the two latches on the left side of the module, not with these two in the front.

 

 

 

No, you cannot access those latches.

But it's actually not needed. If you release latches on the side and push gently upwards through the opnening in the doorcard, module will bend slightly, thus releasing the latches in the back.

Used this method several times now, and all latches are fine.

Problem is, that you were probably trying to release back latches first, as it's easier to insert something there because of the "cushion" part of the armrest. This way it's easy to break the latches.

 

Edit: Working now on "squeeky" doorcards. Seems like fabric insulation tape does the trick, although requires some work. For now did driver's door and it's finally quiet. Not a sound when pulling the handle to close the door. Finally!

Edited 23 October, 20223 yr by Felix2021

Thank you for your tips. Will try to keep in mind this when I'll do the right door.

 

 

Both door handles and windows button modules done. Now it's dead quite, better than in CLA Merc

 

Tape is on almost all edges, as well as latches, clips etc. So basically everything, that directly touches the doorcard plastic.

Also some tape on the door card:

 

Highly recommended "mod", as it fixes one of the biggest issues with O4 (and all Skoda's) trim.

Hope it will not start "squeecking" again

Will doo rear doors (maybe even worse than front) when i will be dampening them, so in few weeks probably.

Managed to do the right doors today. The window module went out much easier. Thanks guys again for all the tips. Appreciated. ☺️ 

This topic kind of died, so let's revive it

Anyone did anything more? What's the results?

I have done rear door, but not same way as front. This time butyl mats are only in the lower triangle, below the reinforcement. Didn't want to remove the window, so appied only there, where i could reach using opening for the speaker (did that while replacing rear speakers). For door trim used 10mm foam.

Again it got a bit more quiet inside, with less noise from the tires. Yep, seems a lot of this noise os coming through the doors

Next i'm planning to:

1. Apply mats and foam to the hood

2. Apply additional 10mm of foam to front doors

3. Wheel arches in front (for now)

4. Maybe floor in the front, without removing chairs.

It is a bit called outside to do a work like that if you don't have a garage. Once it gets warmer the thread will be updated.

 

Well, having a garage, haven;t really thought of that

I just need some time, which is currently not that easy.

On 10/01/2023 at 14:49, Felix2021 said:

Well, having a garage, haven;t really thought of that

I just need some time, which is currently not that easy.

After reading your post, I ordered 10 mm foam to do my doors!

So, inspired by the Superb insulation topic and this one I gave a try on my Octavia 1.5. 

Did the wheel arches on the outside, the doors, the B-pillars and the floor under backseat. Maybe in the future I will give a try also on the boot floor + sides ( C pillars + arches on the inside )

Made measures with an mobile phone app before and after. Same road, 85km/h on cruise test for 5min with ventilation + radio off.

73db before and 69db after. Happy with the results.

In my opinion wheel arches are a must against the road noise( personally I run on 18" with Potenza T005).

Used only few butyl mats but a lot of 6mm armaflex( maybe 9mm is better but this is what I got). 

Edited 8 July, 20232 yr by akon