Yes.  If it's not convenient to remove then you just use the inlet and outlet connections.  Connect a hose up to the outlet and get water going in the opposite direction to usual, the inlet is connected to a drain/backflush/rinse hose to a large bucket or receptacle to at first at least catch what comes out to inspect the coolant that was in the heater matrix (rad).

 

My system normally is to clean (using some sort of cleaner) the whole cooling/heating system but you could just do it on the matrix, then flush and backflush with clean water as many times as required until waste water is clear and clean, then drain, syphon or blow out residue water ready for fresh clean coolant to go back in.

 

12 hours ago, nta16 said:

Connect a hose up to the outlet and get water going in the opposite direction to usual

 

https://www.wikihow.com/Flush-a-Heater-Core

 

I have done it many years ago back in birthplace where i had space and a garden water hose available.

I can not do it here now, maybe in the future i will go to a shop with proper equipment (an example)

 

 

 

when i change the G11 to G12 because they say it's better although so many years i have not overheating problems with G11.

@Thefeliciahacker has G13 but i don't want to go to far.

You can use gravity. or some sort of pump or syphon, the matrix won't hold that much, have double it's volume available and repeat as required. 

The In-Out hoses for heat core are not so convenient as they look in other cars, the one yes it's very accessible, the lower which goes to the engine block (if i remember correct) it's difficult to reach it's end.

Easy peasy

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

has G13 but i don't want to go to far.

Use G13 

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Use G13 

What about G12evo that took over from G13

 

(G12evo is the latest VW engineering specification, specified by the engineers, taking over from their previous changing specifications.) 😁

Edited 21 May, 20242 yr by nta16

3 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Easy peasy

 

In country yes, as i said i have done it in the past but in City it's very difficult.

All the videos from this work are in a garage-country home-repair shop.

 

9 minutes ago, nta16 said:

What about G12evo

 

Nah, i am going to the G14 that will show up in the future, always one step ahead. 

Either gravity feed tank on the roof of you car, you can squeeze off the supply hose and release it as a tap or the help of a glamorous assistant, or pump /syphon, it can be done.  Doesn't mean it isn't awkward but all working at the side of a busy road is to be avoided where possible.

 

Best to stick with one type of coolant and make and model of coolant if possible and avoid any additives if possible, who knows what will mix in well with what.

 

 

No morer additives for me, i will try to take some photos from inside the expansion tank to see if there is muck on the side walls.

 

I wonder a combintaion of hot water and white vinegar for (fast) in-out procedure inside the heater core won't help?

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I wonder a combintaion of hot water and white vinegar for (fast) in-out procedure inside the heater core won't help?

I'm not a chemist or metal ologist, material ologist or wotever, it's not something I would try when there are inexpensive products designed to do the cleaning already available.

 

14 hours ago, nta16 said:

there are inexpensive products designed to do the cleaning already available.

 

I need to do the task 2 times, one for heater core and one for the radiator.

With the thermostat closed (the car is cold) would be no coolant flow in the upper hose or to the expansion tank.

Just pour in and drive for a week or so

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I need to do the task 2 times, one for heater core and one for the radiator.

No three, the engine block is also important.

 

Best way is to use a commercially available coolant (heating) system cleaner on the whole system.  I assume you have a thermostat bypass.   There are plenty of alternative products.  After you could flush water through the system as a whole or separate out the radiator, matrix and engine block to more thoroughly flush through as you want.  You can decide when you see what comes out with the cleaning process how much is needed or wanted.

 

17 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I assume you have a thermostat bypass.

 

separate out the radiator, matrix and engine block

 

 

No, i have not.

 

Separate the engine block? Where in the side of the road that i am working?

11 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

No, i have not.

I should have guessed. 🙂

 

12 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Separate the engine block? Where in the side of the road that i am working?

Is it not removing a drain plug and a separating a hose, to do the radiator you are taking a hose or two off, two hoses for heater if this isn't possible then just do the whole system as a whole.  What solutions can you expect others to give you.  If you live in a property above ground level and the car is close you could buy a water hose put it on a tap in your property and run it out of a window to your car, or use the height for gravity feed - there are loads of things you could do how practical or sensible they are to do is a different matter, like working on the car on a restrictive busy street.  I wouldn't do ANY work on the car in those circumstances. 

It is not surprising that the: thermostat sensor, the thermostat itself and the main hose right after it are clean with no sludge or something sticky?

I was worrying for the water pump too.

Gloop and debris collect in various places or areas for various reasons.  The wider the opening the less that might collect at that point.  It may be that the stuff that was in your system went to your previous expansion tank and there is no more in the system, unless more is being produced, I have no idea.  You would need analysts of what was in your previous expansion tank to know perhaps what it is or its origin, otherwise it's just (educated or not) guessing with a photo on the internet isn't it.

 

You live in a warmer weather country where you drive in stop, start city traffic and gun the car up mountains so I think an occasional clean and/or thorough flushing in addition to whatever coolant changes is a good idea.  If or how often you do these is up to you.  The thermostat helps to control the temperature but once it is fully open it can do no more to control higher temperatures, then you have fan(s) at different levels.  Once you are at or pass optimum temperature you want to prevent or restrictive the temperature getting higher as much as is practically possible, prevention being better than cure and a thoroughly clean cooling/heating system helps with this (subject to all being in reasonable good condition).

 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

unless more is being produced

 

I have made 2 coolant changes, in purpose to remove the old ''contaminated'' fluid.

Plus i have to find time to take photo from the expansion tank although looks clear at 90% at least.

It's very difficult with a smarthpone to take clear pictures of the content but i have tried with a fladh light on the side to shed some light inside.

 

 

 

The ''mouth" isn't dirty, the cap was very clear.

 

 

 

For sure there was no ''mess'' like the previous expansion tank but it's not 100% clear.

There are some glitetrs inside but not significant, only on the right side (not visible) there is tiny muck on the walls but not thick.

The bottom of the plastic tank looks clear and i have not overheating problems, the whole system works fine.

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

For sure there was no ''mess'' like the previous expansion tank but it's not 100% clear.

There are some glitetrs inside but not significant, only on the right side (not visible) there is tiny muck on the walls but not thick.

The bottom of the plastic tank looks clear and i have not overheating problems, the whole system works fine.

So there is more muck slowly coming apart

On the whole it's good news so far ,just keep monitoring the situation to see if this is just more muck surfacing from a previous issue or an ongoing issue that may or may not be of anything to worry about, you could have bits coming out for years and changes of coolant without any issue from the previous issue (that's why you want to get as much out as soon as possible to save this).

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

It's very difficult with a smarthpone to take clear pictures of the content but i have tried with a fladh light on the side to shed some light inside.

There's no such thing as a "smart" phone, that's what we call an oxymoron (like Mars Petcare), the things often aren't much cop as phones and the camera screen can't be viewed in daylight or sun.  Try taking the photo at night using the flash and camera as close or zoomed in as possible, the dark colour of the coolant against the very light plastic causes contrast issues.

 

Edited 24 May, 20242 yr by nta16

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

So there is more muck slowly coming apart

 

I have 2 thoughts:

1) rinse, add a cleaner and tap water for few Kms, rinse, add distilled water and G12

2) leave it few months more so the whole system will boil for good in summer and do the work in my birthplace where i have space to work and garden hose.

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Try taking the photo at night using the flash and camera as close or zoomed in as possible, the dark colour of the coolant against the very light plastic causes contrast issues.

 

 

I will do it, i have led cree flash light with about 6100K.

I see no muck so far in the mouth-cap even at the bottom as the previous had.

37 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

i have led cree flash light with about 6100K.

Don't bother using that just the camera flash as see how well that is.