Hi All,

 

For a few months I've been struggling to troubleshoot P0011 problem with intake camshaft adjuster (described it in detail here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511194-epc-light-and-p0011-intake-camshaft-position-issue-timing-over-advanced-system-performance/#comment-5740970

 

After changing engine oil & filter, cleaning camshaft adjuster solenoid magnet, and cleaning camshaft adjuster oil control valve - still no luck. I am considering replacing first the magnet, and then the oil control valve, but this is just blind trial & error. Dealer and local garages apparently have no better method of diagnosis either - just blindly replacing part by part until finally one of these replacements works. I am wondering if there is a smarter approach possible. I've been trying to collect data on how my intake camshaft adjuster behaves, and hoping maybe this would point out to someone a most likely cause. I also am trying to determine what is considered "normal" for camshaft adjuster - so if anyone can post your live data - that would be extremely helpful (I CarScanner app, but any other data will do). Problem happens only on cold engine (until engine oil reaches about 65 degrees, so within the first 5-10min of driving). On warm engine - everything works fine.

 

Specific questions I have are:

1) Can someone post your live data comparing Actual vs. Specified value for intake camshaft adjuster Bank 1 (for comparison purposes)?

2) The fact that specified value has these dips down far into negatives, while the actual stays positive - does that point to anything? I.e. Could it be that camshaft adjuster itself is actually working fine, but the ECM unit is dictating wrong specified values to it once in a while (hence the issue lies elsewhere other than in the camshaft adjuster itself)?

3) When car is stopped and Start/Stop activates, there is slight deviation between actual (11.49) and specified (11.13). Is this small deviation when the engine is inactive "normal", or is this itself a sign of a problem?

4) Please see below pattern, which I've observed happens roughly in a similar way every day. Depending on how much it happens (before the oil warms up), it may or may not trigger the EPC light. Once the oil warms up - everything works fine. Does this pattern show you any logical direction for troubleshooting?

 

Thanks!

 

 

After starting the car and driving normally for a few min, you would start to see deviations like below, where you see specified adjustment value dipping down while actual not following. Normally this starts to happen after stopping for a few seconds at a light, and then resuming driving.

 

 

Then you see actual going into cyclic movement between 9-12 degrees while expected value continues to stay at ~9 degrees with some dips down.

 

 

after a few seconds like this, it will "resolve itself" and the two values follow each other relatively closely (at least as far as I assume is close-enough)

 

 

Such deviation can then repeat again a minute or so later:

 

 

and then finally resolves for good (normally the oil would have also warmed up sufficiently by then). These dips down never happen on warm oil (so I can continue driving for the rest of the day without any problems at all). During this entire time the engine drives normally, no weird sounds (at least to me) are coming out, no other strange behavior is seen. Perhaps anyone can pinpoint what to watch out for specifically, then I can also pay more attention if anything else is happening.

 

 

Sounds like an EA888 engine? The solenoids fail and cleaning them doesn't help, they are only about £50.

7 minutes ago, Crasher said:

Sounds like an EA888 engine? The solenoids fail and cleaning them doesn't help, they are only about £50.

My Car: Skoda Kodiaq 2019, 1.5 TSI DADA engine,  150 Hp

In the Netherlands, it seems OEM parts are around 150-200 Euros, but that is fine (I can also start by replacing with 2nd hand part just to check if that's the rootcause). But when you say solenoid - what do you mean exactly as I have 3 parts in this engine, and depending on the garages I talked to they called each of them a solenoid at some point

 

Do you mean the magnet that pushes the pin in/out ?

 

or the oil control valve that sits inside the camshaft adjuster (on which the above magnet is actually pushing)?

 

or the sensor/oil control valve that sits on top of the engine by itself:

@Crasher please let me know what you mean by solenoid to be replaced in the above example. Thanks!

What I cannot figure out is the following. After stopping the car with Start/Stop on (hence engine shutting down for a few sec), of course while still on relatively cold engine, when I resume driving I get the below reading (where the SPECIFIED value for camshaft adjuster remains static). During this time I tried accelerating, decelerrating, and that still did not move the SPECIFIED value. If the magnet was stuck, I would expect the actual value to get "stuck" like this, while computer continuing to dictate proper specified value (which would then also vary with pressing of gas pedal). In my case, I see the opposite happening with specified value getting sort of "stuck", while the actual seems to cycle through a few degrees up & down. Again this lasts for about 5-10 seconds, and then everything unfreezes again and behaves normally, but I cannot understand the logic of why would specified value not react during this time to acceleration (as in all other cases it does react immediately to changes of driving performance). Does that point to a possible rootcase?

 

19 minutes ago, andriyvp said:

@Crasher please let me know what you mean by solenoid to be replaced in the above example. Thanks!

I would understand 'solenoid' (electrically-operated actuator) to be item 1 in your images. 

5 hours ago, andriyvp said:

@Crasher please let me know what you mean by solenoid to be replaced in the above example. Thanks!

 

I thought you had an EA888 Evo III engine but yours is an EA211 EVO, nasty things. The one in the last picture, is it out of the cam cover or the oil pump?

The one on the pump only comes with a new pump

 

 

 

Edited 24 March, 20233 yr by Crasher

1 hour ago, Crasher said:

 

I thought you had an EA888 Evo III engine but yours is an EA211 EVO, nasty things. The one in the last picture, is it out of the cam cover or the oil pump?

 

The one in the last picture comes from the top of the engine (super easy to get to with just one screw). It is VW part number 04e906455ac, and is depicted as part #25 on the below diagram (where it is called camshaft control valve). I'm just not sure if it is related to intake camshaft, or if it is linked to exhaust camshaft though. Just in case sharing actual picture of my engine (this part 04e906455ac I marked with yellow arrow, and the magnet solenoid for intake camshaft VW part 04E906423C which I removed in this picture is marked with green arrow).

 

 

From what I have experienced on the EA888 it will be the oil pressure reduction valve but this is much more work on a EA211 and involves replacing the cam belt which can be a sketch.

Try camshaft position sensor 1st

On 25/03/2023 at 09:31, Crasher said:

From what I have experienced on the EA888 it will be the oil pressure reduction valve but this is much more work on a EA211 and involves replacing the cam belt which can be a sketch.

Hi mate I've got ea888 gen 3. Will this valve be responsible for a brief split second rattle on startup? (2015, 120k). Checked chain stretch on VCDS (0.3 intake phase 2.6 exhaust phase), and tensioner through inspection hole (only out 2-3 rings). 

 

Changed intake cam adjuster magnet and the oil control valve inside. Temporarily noise gone but back next day. (Only thing left is to do exhaust cam magnet/valve too). And maybe try something else? 

 

Hoping it's not a wrecked camshaft. Thanks