Okey update about the car guys, 

The fan does not help shiet with cooling. I put it directly to the battery while driving and the car still overheats. 

SO, that said.

 

If i run full speed on fans("AC" i know its not ac but dont know the name haha) on the hotest setting the car does not overheat, Then it stays 90C. Like fairly stable. 

If i turn off the AC and do full throttle cooling fan it still overheats. 
BUT the radiator still gets evenly warm/cold. so the flow seems fine in it, 

same goes for the pipes from it. The thermostat seems to open like it should. 

I dont notice any oil leakage or dirty cooling water. Its "perfectly" blue still. 

 

 

What do i i try next. 

 

headgasket? Waterpump?

When you say "overheating" the temperature exceeds the 100 'C in the first fan scale?

16 hours ago, nta16 said:

Then you would wonder why you would want or need an override switch if the car is running fine and cooling fine, I know some like to have a dog and bark themselves but for an owner that has had the car from new and barely drives it perhaps before selling, perhaps it was just belt and braces but seems a bit odd to me other than bodge.

 

Or could it be extra wire for extra pin if the three-pin switch was previously fitted instead of two pin switch, how is the two speed wired.

 

ETA: some people have their own logic to their wiring which can be "unconventional".

 

 

I kind of doubt that they had a fan-switch.

it was a 90 year old couple that have owned the car since 2003. 
But yea it does not look standard. I also dont see any modifications in the Cupé. Everything looks standard. (except the radio i changed) 
i mean the fan was working on temp untill 3 weeks ago. 

(about that the car is fine, hahaha i have no idea, but like it drives well, main focus now is just to fix the overheating issue)

 

 

 

Just now, D.FYLAKTOS said:

When you say "overheating" the temperature exceeds the 100 'C in the first fan scale?

So if i go for a drive without the heating on MAX, and the Cooling fan always on it just keeps on getting warmer and warmer, will def start boiling. 

I dont push the limit because i dont want it to boil. 

If i go for a drive with heating on MAX since start it stays on 90. and for the first weeks of owning the car it alawys just stayed perfectly on 90. 

But now it keeps on getting warmer and warmer, except when im going downhill haha...

You have removed the air bubbles from the system?

Checked if there a small leak from the expansion tank cap or any hose?

The antifreeze ratio in the coolant is?

Just now, D.FYLAKTOS said:

You have removed the air bubbles from the system?

Checked if there a small leak from the expansion tank cap or any hose?

The antifreeze ratio in the coolant is?

 

Its like 50/50 mix.

No leaks in the cooling system now

I burped the system for a whopping 30 minutes. just to make sure. Watched like 10 videos too just to make sure i actually did it right. 

I made sure the coolant level was over the engine, Put a thing on it, air tight and always had the car running. It burped and stoped after a while, the thermostat opened it burped a lot and kept it running another 10-15 minutes.

With the heating on max the whole time. Took of the canister while the car was running, took out the overflow coolant and put the cap back on. 

I did hear wezzing from the cap later on after a drive which i guess was just pressure releasing since i live in the mountains there is a lot of ups and downs and pressure change. 

In 1.3 the thermostat first opens at 87-88 'C, yours? Maybe it's wrong type and opens much latter?

Since GR climate is hot i have installed 80-85 'C thermoswich, maybe you have a wrong type ie 92-98 'C thus the initial overheating symptoms?

2 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

In 1.3 the thermostat first opens at 87-88 'C, yours? Maybe it's wrong type and opens much latter?

Since GR climate is hot i have installed 80-85 'C thermoswich, maybe you have a wrong type ie 92-98 'C thus the initial overheating symptoms?

I have tried two new ones, they both open 87 and they do. 

2 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

The fan does not help shiet with cooling. I put it directly to the battery while driving and the car still overheats. 

SO, that said.

 

If i run full speed on fans("AC" i know its not ac but dont know the name haha) on the hotest setting the car does not overheat, Then it stays 90C. Like fairly stable. 

If i turn off the AC and do full throttle cooling fan it still overheats. 
BUT the radiator still gets evenly warm/cold. so the flow seems fine in it, 

same goes for the pipes from it. The thermostat seems to open like it should. 

I dont notice any oil leakage or dirty cooling water. Its "perfectly" blue still. 

When was the radiator last reverse flushed? I have a feeling the answer may be "never".

I don't there is anything wrong with the fan but just in case a simple, quick easy test is you could check the fan is turning in the correct direction, wire to to be on then get some smoke in front of the radiator and see if the fan pulls the smoke through the radiator.

 

The engine cooling fan and the fan in the cabin blower running uses a fair bit of battery power.

 

Having to turn the cabin heater on to full is an emergency short term measure to overheating, it should not be relied on, this

is defiantly not a good sign.

 

2 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

BUT the radiator still gets evenly warm/cold. so the flow seems fine in it,

Sorry I am not sure what you mean by this, the radiator will be hotter at the top and should be hot once the stat (thermostat) has opened.  The stat starts to open at around its stated figure but is not fully open until a higher figure.

 

 

2 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

headgasket? Waterpump?

Possibly but you waste a lot of time (and money) just guessing you need to follow a logical path of diagnostics to resolve things fully and keep in mind the issues(s) may be from one or more sources of problems.  Such as, and I know you do not have a coolant leak but if you did even if you find a source of leak you still look and check for other possible leaks.  A Dealership/garage/mechanic may stop when they find a leak to leave another leak because they have not fully checked, you want to do better for yourself and your cars.

 

When the battery was in reasonable state of charge did you have any hesitation in the engine firing up at ignition either before or after the overheating? 

 

 

2 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

(about that the car is fine, hahaha i have no idea, but like it drives well, main focus now is just to fix the overheating issue)

The car and engine will not be running as well as it should or could if the engine is overheating, it affects the running of the engine and who wants the heater on full in summer heat, if this was a new car you would not expect it and there's no reason why it should be so on your Felicia.

 

 

2 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

No leaks in the cooling system now

Where were the leaks before?

 

 

2 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

I did hear wezzing from the cap later on after a drive which i guess was just pressure releasing since i live in the mountains there is a lot of ups and downs and pressure change. 

I'm not sure about that but I will leave  @D.FYLAKTOS who travel in mountains to comment on that.

 

 

2 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

If i go for a drive with heating on MAX since start it stays on 90. and for the first weeks of owning the car it alawys just stayed perfectly on 90. 

I do not really understand when this overheating started

 

have you always since you owned the car had to have the cabin heater on full to keep the the gauge needle on 90

or

did the overheating only start after the first few weeks of your ownership?

 

If second, then did anything else happen around or at the the start of the overheating?

 

31 minutes ago, Paws4Thot said:

When was the radiator last reverse flushed? I have a feeling the answer may be "never".

I've already put up a post with a link to another thread post with my procedure for thorough cooling/heating coolant cleaning, it's nothing special at all, very simple, just thorough, ideal to do in the warmer/hotter parts of the year as you can also cool yourself if you want. 🙂

 

3 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

I dont notice any oil leakage or dirty cooling water. Its "perfectly" blue still. 

What about oil and oil filler cap, any milky look to the oil?

 

With that possibly bit of "DIY wiring" I, and I expect others, are wondering if the engine cooling fan was wired by someone to remain working to cover the start or actual overheating before the car's sale, could be totally wrong with this of course just suspicious from decades of experience from association with old cars in one way or another.

 

 

3 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

So if i go for a drive without the heating on MAX, and the Cooling fan always on it just keeps on getting warmer and warmer, will def start boiling. 

I dont push the limit because i dont want it to boil. 

You should not really be using the car if this is the case as things generally can get worse.  It is in occasions like this that timely engine oil and filter changes pay greater dividends especially if better quality engine oil is used that offers better and longer protection at high (and very low) engine running temperatures giving greater margins of engine use.  Many go with cheap any standard oil with old cars and not too bothered about timely or thorough change (quick cold drains instead of hot longer drain) which can be the very opposite of what is needed.

 

Same with other fluids like coolant, gearbox, power steering and service parts, if they are working that is good enough, not that they are working fully or reasonably let alone working fully and well.

 

3 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

I have tried two new ones, they both open 87 and they do. 

 

Thse are the thermostats !!!

I said about the radiator switch,

mine is 80-85 'C in purpose due to the hot climate and Mountain roads routes.

I had a similar problem like you, first i changed the radiator switch with one with lower scale plus the coolant sensor with one with Blue ring

 

 

 

the mechanic had installed one with Yellow ring, that damned never worked properly and cause me nothing than problems with high temperature indications in the cluster gauge.

 

Bear in mind Felicia98noob is in Sweden and IIRC(?) put summer(?) temperatures were 18-25c which could be lower even than here in UK, also I'm sure you would never have your car running at such that you needed the cabin heater on full (even with the engine cooling fan permanently wired to on) and perhaps Sweden's lower(?) winter temperatures than Greece or UK  have also to be taken into consideration.

 

@Felicia98noob if you want to to, to keep this thread now to the overheating, to save confusion you could start another thread about the radio and wiring generally, I have seen a couple of things in your photos that may be nothing (camera angle, photo perspective) and others I would at least be curious about.

 

Sticking with overheating - for difficult to get in to reverse sometimes if the engine is very hot this transfers some heat to the gearbox which if low in oil level may add to gear selection issues.  Again one item or issues affecting another item or issue which is why I recommend as early as possible in old car ownership carrying out whole car servicing and maintenance, checks at least, like gearbox oil level.  Better still at some point doing a thorough changing (hot longer drain and perhaps cleaning flush) of the (manual not auto) gearbox oil and using better quality gearbox oil to give better and longer margins of protection.

 

Of course the reverse selection issue may be not affect by the gearbox oil, other suggestions have already been made but one that was only mentioned indirectly was driver training/learning.  With reverse gear (and first to some extent) you want the engine revs to be at low idle, foot fully off the accelerator and engine revs allowed to fully drop, then clutch pedal fully depressed and held for a second or so before selecting reverse and ensuring it is cleaning engaged before beginning to lift the clutch pedal and if required touching the accelerator pedal.  You can often hear when some drivers do not bother with this procedure.

 

Edited 4 August, 20241 yr by nta16

41 minutes ago, nta16 said:

With that possibly bit of "DIY wiring" I, and I expect others, are wondering if the engine cooling fan was wired by someone to remain working to cover the start or actual overheating before the car's sale

Also @Felicia98noob - Well, me for one, particularly with the look of those 2 joints that appear to be covered in insulating tape.

To add some positive to matters - because the car looks so good in the photos it is easier to see possible variances and perhaps a higher level of concern about a higher of condition and be more critical over things than in a car that's of a lower standard, somethings are more a very little effort to get things better.

 

No one has any magic powers to see inside the items in photos so can't see if the radiator or engine or rest of the heating cooling system is (reasonably) clean and clear or if that taped electric wire joint is good, it could well be.

 

Edited 4 August, 20241 yr by nta16

13 minutes ago, nta16 said:

that taped electric wire joint is good

My concern is over the very existence of those joints, not the quality of the work under the tape.

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

mine is 80-85 'C

Doesn't make sense going there 

23 minutes ago, Paws4Thot said:

My concern is over the very existence of those joints, not the quality of the work under the tape.

Mine too but this was covered earlier in the thread but I would also be concerned about the quality of the joint(s).

 

Thread drift warning - 😆

 

Yea okey, lets keep this thread to overheating and i will make future threads about other stuff on the car. haha!  like @nta16 said. 

Update for today would be that the car first got a lot worse, overheated super fast and i got so confused, But then i changed back to the "first new thermostat" (i changed from a new one i bought to another new one to see if there was a difference) because the second new one i put in broke right away...? the pin was fully out and stuck. But now when i changed back to the first new one it works better. I flushed the system a bunch of times and used some weird cleaning stuff. 
Started it, let it run, open up, flush and repeat. The mix between antifreeze and water is like 35-40% antifreeze and the rest water.

 

AND NOW, While not using the fan at all, the car goes to around 100c MAXIMUM, i never gets over it at least. 
So thats better, the fan doesnt really help much aside if i am idle running the car, then it stays on an even 90-95. So thats good. 

 

But i still have the problem while driving that it goes between like 95-100 depending on if its uphill or downhill. 

I am guessing now that its just air in the system? But i burped it and waited a long time to see any bubbles but didnt see any after a while. 
And all this while not running the "AC" fans on max heat. I had "cold" fan mode. so i mean its an improvment but yea. Still not perfect. 

I am thinking about handing in to a shop so they can troubleshoot it but i dont know, what do you guys think? 

THere is also probably no leak in the head-gasket, there is no white smoke, the coolant is clear brighter blue. Also checked for any kind of "build up" on the oil-fil lid and stick and didnt find any.  
 

Should also mention that the radiator is in a nice condition, would not even call it dirty. just some insects. 

 

also, the heat sensor, i think i have a blue ring on now, but i also have one laying around with a yellow ring. Dont know the difference lol

Does/did the cabin heater matrix (small radiator inside the heater box) get hot and push out hot air when set to hottest and cabin blower fan set to high speed?

 

Provided it is functioning correctly, once the coolant stat (thermostat) is fully open it can do no more to control the coolant, the (engine cooling) radiator, and when required the electric engine cooling fan, and the engine oil, the ambient air, the flow of which depends on the car's movement or wind are doing the cooling.

 

25 minutes ago, Felicia98noob said:

I flushed the system a bunch of times and used some weird cleaning stuff. 
Started it, let it run, open up, flush and repeat.

You have to be careful what you use to clean, you really want to use specific cleaners, did you back-flush at all,  did you drain and flush (and back-flush) the engine block too - did you see my notes on all three from a link I put in a previous post.

 

The idea of fresh new clean coolant is too help keep the engine cool, help prevent corrosion and to lubricate, it also has antifreeze, so the coolant needs to be at the correct concentration to water for your location to prevent winter freezing of the coolant which can potentially cause a lot of damage.

 

In a lot of areas tap water is not a good water to use in car cooling systems.

 

If you carried out the refilling procedure as you did before (including cabin heater set to full heat, cabin fan does not matter on this) I doubt it is air in the system, of course I can't know if there is any air in the system and if it might be the cause or partial cause, but I doubt it.

 

The radiator being clean and clear on the outside is good, same for the engine (and heater matrix that you cannot see, and I have read it is a pig of a job to remove it) but you can not see how clear and clean the water passages are inside them.  Same with the head gasket, it is a matter of belief on your part, you can test which is better than just belief.

 

Whether you hand this over to a garage/mechanic is up to you but if you download the info from Erwin or get a Haynes (workshop) Manual, perhaps get a head gasket testing kit, and/or take advice and instruction from here and learn how to at least sort the cooling/heating system yourself so you get the learning, satisfaction and confidence and save labour costs at least.  You can often do a better job than a garage/mechanic because you care more and have the time to do the job properly if you want.

 

Coolant refilling instructions are often in the car's Owner's Manual of this period(?).

 

I used to pay others called "professionals" and "specialists" ("professionals") to do the work on my cars but then had to finish that work properly myself or sometimes redo the work, so much so that later I would just do most work myself without them.  I have (almost) never had a garage to work in so outside in the weather and (sometimes lack of) light and do not have a mechanical aptitude and loathe working on our own cars (yet I do not mind simple work on the cars of others).  I made (and make) many mistakes (not helped by my loathing) yet still often doing a better job than the "professionals".

 

It also means I (and you could) know what exactly was done on the car, the parts used, how the job went, when it was done and that the work was actually done and parts fitted.  Also gives more information for if issues arise.  Many/most jobs on the car, servicing, maintenance and some repairs, just boil down to cleaning and lubricating that most of us can do.  Some may sometimes be a bit awkward but still quite simply to do if done correctly.

 

An experienced person may see something you do not but the other side is familiarity breeds contempt so an experienced person can make mistakes often by not checking or double check something that the less experienced person would.  No matter what the job or issue is the start is always with the basics which you can easily learn after reading or being told.

 

11 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

also, the heat sensor, i think i have a blue ring on now, but i also have one laying around with a yellow ring. Dont know the difference lol

@D.FYLAKTOS and others can tell you or it is detailed in posts on this form previously.

 

Parts quality is an issue generally, even the better known suppliers carry poor quality parts, often you get what you pay for, pay cheap get cheap (but not always).  I have not used Reddix(?) parts but I think I have seen that they are not the best.  Particularly with things like sensors on these old cars you want the originals or good quality Japanese (that is if  the original sensors were not already Japanese).

 

Edited 5 August, 20241 yr by nta16

11 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

 

also, the heat sensor, i think i have a blue ring on now, but i also have one laying around with a yellow ring. Dont know the difference lol

 

Thermostat sensor, has a distinctive Blue ring around.

 

 

It's a brand name? When did you installed this one?

 

 

This is a radiator switch, what 'C scale is yours?

80-85, 85-90, 95-100 ?