I purchased a 2016 Scout DIESEL (Manual Gearbox) in January this year. By August the engine was pretty much written off thanks to an incorrectly refitted timing belt by the car dealers 3rd party garage. (In dispute process, currently, with Financial Ombudsman)

Long story short, the L side engine mounting bolt sheered off, further complicated by the mount point on the block also irreparably broken as well, resulting in a complete replacement engine being required.

Having previously taken the Octavia VRS DIESEL Estate (Manual Gearbox) a test drive I learned how fun the VRS engine can be. (Unfortunately, I was unable to gain the finance to purchase it at the time, so had to settle on the Scout instead). 

The Scout's Engine Code is CRMB. Given that the cost of purchasing a used CRMB engine, removing the old engine and fitting the replacement will cost in the region of £5.5k, I am speculatively researching on fitting a Diesel VRS block instead, provided the mount points match up. 

Has anyone done this kind of engine swap before? Are there any important points to be aware of when doing such a swap? (Apart from the obvious ECU replacement for the VRS instead)

Thank you in advance for any help you can provide

Where are you in Central Scotland and is there no competent independent mechanic near that might be experienced and capable of doing this work?

Maybe someplace that does servicing and maintenance of taxi,s.   Might even have the parts. 

As above, with the note that George and I live in different places so may know different indies.

I live in Falkirk. I have checked out a few local garages who can do engine swaps. I think there's a VAG group independent garage nearby that can do provided I can source the engine successfully. I guess it's all just a matter of cost...

Are you sure the mounting bolt goes into the actual cast iron engine block and that it is damaged or is that what you are being told?

 

I bought my MK2 Octavia cheap because the sellers garage had put in writing almost word for word what you stated, "new engine block needed" this was again just after they had replaced the cam belt.

 

In actual fact the broken casting was the aluminium alternator and power steering belt mounting bracket which the LH engine mounting bracket screwed into.

 

£30 and I had a second hand one delivered from a breaker in 24 hours.

Can't help; I don't know anyone East of Motherwell except Agra Engineering in Dundee.

Could a broken bolt extractor set get the stuck bit of the bolt out? I've never tried doing it but I have seen such tool kits. It's got to be cheaper than £5.5k.

17 hours ago, WorkHorse said:

the mount point on the block also irreparably broken as well,

 

Not so, it just needs the remains of the bolt removing, there are several ways of doing it, carefully drilling going up in sizes to the tap drill size and then picking out the threads but they will normally have backed out by then, left hand drill bits help.

 

Drilling and using an Easy-out, risk of breaking it.

 

Arc welding a nut to the remains, the heat usually releases the threads and it will unscrew easily.

 

£5.5K, says it all about the motor trade I'm afraid

@tetley and @J.R. -  I think the OP is suggesting there are two mount points which are damaged...

 

On with the end of the old bolt stuck which can probably be removed.

 

Then a second which I assume is the "irreparably broken" one - probably this rusty thing:

I zoomed in on that but it was inconclusive.

 

The cast aluminium bracket that he is holding for the photograph appears to have 3 mounting bolts, 2 are intact and the 3rd sheared off flush hence my belief that the only thing needing attention is the removal of the sheared off remains in the engine block.

4 hours ago, tetley said:

Could a broken bolt extractor set get the stuck bit of the bolt out?

I wouldn't recommend this: You have a good chance (better than 1/2) of breaking the hardened steel stud extractor off in the stuck bolt and needing spark erosion to get it out.

5 hours ago, J.R. said:

Drilling and using an Easy-out, risk of breaking it.

 

Arc welding a nut to the remains, the heat usually releases the threads and it will unscrew easily.