As many of you know I bought a Golf turbo from another Briskoda member and I have been playing with it trying to iron out a few niggles that it has. The major crux has been the clutch, it has been built using a cable which is not really the best way to do it so I have now set about converting it to hydraulic.

Oh before I show you the first stage of that have a giggle at this (for those in the know this will be funny)

Anyhow on with stage 1, remove the engine and gearbox...

So far the stuff binned in the name of reliability and weight saving..

Air Conditioning (doesnt belong on a MK2 Golf)

Cruise control (ditto, didnt work anyhow)

Crappy FMIC

Washer bottle is off soon

Battery is now in the back of the car

Secondardy air injection (wasnt being used but still there)

About a dozen choc blocks out of the wiring loom (all soldered up nicely now)

More updates soon time sadly is limited to one evening a week at the moment until we are moved, but made a lot of progress just tonight. Once the engine is out the rest of the interior and dash needs to come out so I can fit the clutch pedal box.

Enjoy

Major renovation going on there mate.

Is the piccie something to do with the IC being secured only on one side? Or the fan sitting right on top of it?

Sounds like you're sorting it right out though.

it could be down to the size of it Jas

it could be down to the size of it Jas

Only that is it? It does look a little like an SMIC put on it's side.

Basically it is I think, it looks very much like a ur quattro one that has been modified. Thing is it was limited to what boost it could run because of it yet the chap that built it went to the trouble of fitting air conditioning. Would have been better off not bothering and fitting a decent sized i/c.

Why solder the joints? Crimps would be better

In my experiance I prefer a nice soldered joint with heatshrink over the top. Crimps can come loose over time especially in a hot engine bay.

no doubt it wont be replaced with a simular sized item so it will be running better

In my experiance I prefer a nice soldered joint with heatshrink over the top. Crimps can come loose over time especially in a hot engine bay.

But long term a soldered joint will be corrosive? :confused:

only if left to the elements, which it isn't after heat shrink is applied

only if left to the elements, which it isn't after heat shrink is applied

Could still give problems long term bengie

Better off with a good dry crimped connection IMHO

only if left to the elements, which it isn't after heat shrink is applied

Yup. All wiring in my motor for my various add-ons has been done via soldering and heatshrinking. Joining the main power cable feed from my battery in the boot was fun. Ended up joining the two ends as best as possible, then tightening them together with some thin bare copper wire, then using plenty of solder on it, followed by a good amount of heatshrink. Worked fine and should last ages too.

is this practise for your upcoming octavia jollyfication

and yes, i did notice your sig related handywork...:nono: :P

Could still give problems long term bengie

Better off with a good dry crimped connection IMHO

you would be surprised at how many soldered wires there are on some cars , we had a new Focus in the other day , it had had a front end repair at some point but came in with an electrical fault , this was traced to a group of about 6 earth wires which were soldered together where one had pulled out of the solder , re-soldered , problem solved

Could still give problems long term bengie

Better off with a good dry crimped connection IMHO

like what out of interest?

from ym experience a crimped connection when put to constant vibration can wiggle loose but a soldered one can only corrode so if you seal it from the elements it should be fine.

All that reports that that I have read in racing circles is that the majority of

electrical breakdowns are through soldered joints...

Probably something to do with the acidic nature of the flux.

Lucky car - ending up in your capable hands! Can't wait to see what sweet final result you come up with.

Imagine - out of all the thousands of Mk2 Golf Turbo's initially made, this one ends up being cared for 24/7 by Lummox..... The mind boggles...

Better off with a good dry crimped connection IMHO

:iagree:

anyhow

isn't that fan mounted the wrong side of the radiator:confused:

surely that fan spins anti-clockwise?

Ross, any details, pics on precisely how you relocated the battery? I'm sure some of us would love to know what's involved exactly....

Not sure tbh Tom didnt pay much attention as thats the a/c fan and now redundant.

Ross, any details, pics on precisely how you relocated the battery? I'm sure some of us would love to know what's involved exactly....

All in good time my friend, all in good time

Ross, any details, pics on precisely how you relocated the battery? I'm sure some of us would love to know what's involved exactly....

For me, it was a case of chopping the main power line, and butchering the battery box to leave the original setup where the power cable is split into the different feeds. The main cable was then simply fed to the boot where the battery now is, and the "assortment" packaged up within the original box and lid (but a bit smaller now ) secured down where the battery was. Tucked away nicely, and it works well. Muchos room for "other" stuff.

I now have,

Mk4 Golf clutch pedal box

02J 1.8T gearbox

Late spec cable shift set up inc short throw lever

Sachs G60 clutch and SMF

Clutch pipe work and slave cylinder

Front mount intercooler

Battery cut off switch to mount under the bonnet for safety as battery is in the back.

Should keep my busy for a while, engine is now sat on the floor, going to strip it down and clean it up before refitting. Subframes are off being cleaned up ready to be powder coated and poly bushed up, all good fun.

Next task is to mount the clutch pedal box up and see where the pipe will route.