How long until the 'excess condensation' threads!?

[Tranberg]

A strip of 25x180 cm of jeans-like fabric was cut up and sewn into 6 small pouches, filled with the contents of a 5 liter bag of silica gel kitty litter and finally sewn shut.

 

Now I have 6 Pingi-like moisture absorbers, for the price of one genuine Pingi 300 gram, only mine are 400 gram.

 

All this came about because I killed one of my 4 Pingi bags, by giving it 7 minutes microwave in one stretch, causing the grill wire rack to melt holes in the bag.

 

Of course my cheap version doesn't have the tell-tale blue dot, which pales as the ability to absorb moisture diminishes.

 

Having so many makes it easy to just swap them before they are used up, and I will simply write the dry weight on each bag so I can weigh how much water they've absorbed.

Edited 24 February, 2016 by Tranberg

[Flyfisherman]

Guys

 

I have been monitoring my moisture levels - more like wetness around the door aperatures. I was finding there was water within the inner doors seal / anti kick strips on the inner cills, also there were water marks on the inner seal - these marks were below the the joint (welded seam) on the seal. This welded seam was no smooth - there was a lip where the two sides of the seal were joined and when the door was shut the droplets of water were aloud to pass this seamed join and into the car. All the joins on the seals in my eye were in the wrong position - half way up the door.

 

I have now relocated the seals placing the joins at the bottom and I have no more water within the inner doors seal / anti kick strips on the inner cills and no moisture within the car / misting up inside.

 

I will take some picyies tomorrow if any body is interested.

 

paul

[silver1011]

I will take some picyies tomorrow if any body is interested.

 

Yes please!

[Flyfisherman]

Well I spoke too soon - very heavy rain over the weekend and sure enough water within the inner doors seal / anti kick strips on the inner cills. I have noticed that the passenger door seal nearest to the front wing is not following the contour's of the door, I think that the water is runing down the "A" pillar onto the outer door seal and entering the where the outer seal is not in contact with the inner door skin.

 

Pictures tomorrow and it throwing it down here atm

 

Paul

[Flyfisherman]

Guys

 

Lot of water within the inner door seal yesterday morning

 

Water in the bottom of the inner door seal.

 

Water marks

 

 

 

 

There are gaps on the outer door's - I'm thinking this is where the water getting in.

 

 

 

I have removed the door card and found some droplet of water coming from behind that inner steel panel http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/47196-how-to-remove-octy-ii-door-cards-speaker-sizes/ bottom right hand side of the first picture.

 

Hose pipe out this afternoon to see where this water is coming from.

 

Paul

[Flyfisherman]

Guy's

 

Quick up date - I sprayed the front door and sure enough droplet of came out from behind that inner steel panel in the front door - so how the water getting into the inside of the dooor, remove the inner window seal and sprayed water again. I then notice drips of water droping from the bottom of the glass and directly below where the droplet of water drops is where the water is coming out of the inner steel panel in the front door. The droplet of water is dropping of the glass hitting the inner steel panel, following the contour of that inner steel panel and pooling before dripping out of gap between the door / inner steel panel. Examination of the window guide rubber showed that it had split where the wing mirror facia secures to the front door.

 

Camera is flat atm will post pictures later.

 

Paul

[Flyfisherman]

guy's

 

Water dripping from behind the steel inner panel

 

 

 

Drips of water on the inner side of the window glass.

 

 

 

Broken seal on the window guide seal

 

 

Paul

[Flyfisherman]

guy's

 

Water dripping from behind the steel inner panel

 

 

 

Drips of water on the inner side of the window glass.

 

 

 

Broken seal on the window guide seal

 

 

Has anybody renewed the window guide rubber seals - advise on renewal would be a great help.

 

Paul

[CWARD]

This is normally a sign of a leaking door membrane. The window seals are not 100%, wind your window down a couple of inches and the curve of the glass moves it away from the seal, the water on the glass will run down the inside of the door and then should exit through the drain holes in the bottom of the door. If the membrane is leaking, usually were it attaches to the door and just needs re-sticking, then it will exit sooner and drip down the door card. 

if you remove the door card and do your hose pipe test again it will show you were it is coming in through the membrane and in your case I guarantee it is from the front lower corner. You just need to peel it back carefully and stick it with a bitumen type product, I've used Thomson's Emergency Roof Repair before, Silicon based products don't work as well. 

[Flyfisherman]

Thanks for the reply- the door card had been removed, the window was in the closed position - window sprayed with water, I found the leakcoming from behind the steel membrane - as you stated front lower corner

 

 

So hows the water getting into the inside of the door - this is where I found the broken seal on the window guide rubber

 

 

Window in the closed position - sprayed the window again, noticed that droplets of water were following the contour of the glass thats inside the door.

 

I need to remove the steel membrane and reseal the membrane - anybody removed the membrane and resealed + anybody renewed the window guide rubber.

 

paul

[simion_levi]

You generally use something like this if you are removing and resealing the door membranes from scratch (after carefully peeling off the original with a plastic scraper) - but if you are just repairing in place then a tube of butyl sealer may be easier to apply.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOLT-ON-PANEL-SEALER-BUTYL-TAPE-ROLL-STRIP-SEALANT-BONDING-CARS-BOATS-VANS-/252327388857?hash=item3abfe266b9:g:Y5cAAOSwys5WUGbt

Edited 4 April, 2016 by simion_levi

[CWARD]

The membrane is a tough rubbery foam sheet and shouldn't be damaged it is usually the adhesive they use to stick it with that fails. As above a bit of butyl will re-stick it. Find out where it leaking through the seal then carefully scrape back with a plastic scrapper and dry it off with a clean rag. Get plenty of sealer in there and then roll the membrane back over it working the sealant about so it overlaps the damage area and then test again with the hose.

[Flyfisherman]

Thanks guy's for the reply - the only problem I can see is thatI will have to drill out all the pop rivets which are holding that steel panel to the main frame of the door to do a proper job of resealing it.

 

Have you had to do this?.

 

Paul

[CWARD]

Not sure what steel panel you are referring to. Your door should look like

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFvVG4BbE5k

[CWARD]

Is your door like the Fabia?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MMRjCZBHfY

[Flyfisherman]

Yes - my door is like the fabia - pictures attached

 

 

 

As stated above to reseal this steel panel properly I will have to drill out all the pop rivets or a botch job like the guy did in the Fabia video.

 

Paul

[pikpilot]

Not sure what steel panel you are referring to. Your door should look like

 

That video is for an Octavia Tour, aka Octavia Mk 1

[CWARD]

I would leave it place, guarantee if you drill them out there will be one piece that you miss and it will rattle away inside the door driving you made. If you remove it then you will need to clean it all up before refitting.

 

Try using some heat from an air gun or the wife's air dryer, concentrate it around the edges where it is leaky then apply pressure and see if that will reseal it. Otherwise apply sealant around the edge and push it under the panel with a finger. Either way check for leaks before refitting the door card. 

[Flyfisherman]

Guy's

 

Quick update after a good night of heavy rain - opened the passenger door, plenty of water from the front drain hole  and lots of drips of water coming from behind that inner metal panel when I pushed it. I have attached a picture of the window guide rubber seal by the wing mirror - should there be a split like in the picture - i hope somebody / s could check their and report their findings.

 

 

Many thanks

paul

[gav_is_con]

Guy's

Quick update after a good night of heavy rain - opened the passenger door, plenty of water from the front drain hole and lots of drips of water coming from behind that inner metal panel when I pushed it. I have attached a picture of the window guide rubber seal by the wing mirror - should there be a split like in the picture - i hope somebody / s could check their and report their findings.

Many thanks

paul

I checked mine yesterday and the rubber is indeed separate to that by the mirror. I would suggest it's by design. However I also have similar water sitting on the door rubber and running out of the doors when opened after rain etc. I'm following this one since it started as I also suffered from condensation on the screen. Pingi bags may have helped.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Flyfisherman]

Guy's

 

Been to my local Skoda garage asking if there was a mod that could be done to relieve the issue - as expected blank looks absolutley useless then they wonder why my car never goes to them for servicing.

 

I mentioned about the same issues with the fabia and octy MK3. I was then advise that the mod to the fabia was to apply a bead of sealent on the bottom edge of the steel insert panel, as for the octy Mk3 new seals are to be fitted.

 

My plan is to remove that inner steel panel and fit a new neoprene cord - I will keep you all posted whilst do the repair and my back passenger door is leaking as well.

 

Paul

[Flyfisherman]

Guy's

 

as above - remove the inner steel panel, remove the old neoprene seal and replace with a new one. I have manage to remove a section of the old seal and it diameter is 7mm. So i'm thinking of buy 8mm neoprene cord, apply some no nonsense gutter sealent wiith the channel and place the neoprene cord on top of the sealent. Hopefully it will stick to it and remaining flexible.

 

Your thought please

 

paul

[CWARD]

Seems like a lot of effort compared to running round the lower edge with some sealant..

If your going down the route of replacing the cord I would apply the sealant to both the door and the panel. Belts and braces etc but at least you know the cord won't move allowing water past.

[Flyfisherman]

Guy's

 

See picture below for the cause of the leak.

 

 

The cord has been removed / replaced with new cord - see picture below.

 

 

Awaiting fitment - hence my thread about the special pop rivet

 

Once fitted I have the rear door to sort out as well - that leaking as well

 

Paul

Edited 14 June, 2016 by Flyfisherman

[TheClient]

Looks good now replaced. Where did you find the replacement seal / cord? I though you ordered the genuine pop rivets and all arrived - get on!