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@HowardBury Does that Invoice show all work done, time and parts used even if you are not paying. That is for your Records as the Owner / Driver. It is not supposed to be the SKODA SECRET SERVICE. Lose lips cost lives. Yet Dealerships seem to think it is all on a Need to know basis and customers need not know.

Thanks guys. It's on a Skoda extended warranty, so the only invoice I get is my contribution to the overall cost, or excess as it's an insurance policy. I get the impression that they don't recheck after fitting the new part, so that seems unwise. It's a central locking fault based on a faulty sensor in the driver's door which thinks the door is open, then throws up faults with engine running, auto hold not working, electronic brake faulty and others.

@JB88 If they were going by some Service Regime like that shown by Skoda UK the Air Filter was due to be replaced at 6 Years / 60,000 miles. Was it ? Actually it should be inspected at every service if a service is worth a damn.

Been back to the garage and done more tests whilst driving and said it wasn’t the abs sensors but couldn’t get to the bottom of the problem and suggested an electrician. Faults haven’t happened since then.

Annoying! Well done on not giving up

With Skoda / VW it is common that NEW DISCS are required sooner than pads or at the same time. Long gone are the days of several sets of pads before the discs need replaced. But then Skoda main dealer servicing might have Brake Fluid changed but not SERVICING of the Brakes, strip and grease pins etc.

If they didn't clear the codes how would they be able to tell they had fixed the problem?. Normally faults that have not been fixed correctly will reappear as soon as the vehicle is started or driven. The awkward faults are those where codes are logged, cleared and return after a period of time. I used to use VCDS to periodiclly check for codes, there would be codes listed which didn't result in any messages on the dashboard, that when cleared never returned or sometimes did return many weeks later, usually it was just a sensor reporting a reading that was out of spec.

Clearing the fault after dealing with the issue or fault and then road testing it and checking for fault codes is just 'Simply Clever' or a necessity'. Did they road test your vehicle before handing back the keys having given you the invoice. Plus the report on the checks they did while they had the car with them?

The car is finally back in the garage to have the GFB DV+ replaced with a 'Rev G'. Fingers (and toes!) crossed that this is the offending item and the car drives more smoothly again afterwards. I've asked them to also check the engine/gearbox mounts for any sign that those need replacing too (lower dogbone mount/bush was replaced earlier this year, so that should be fine, but the other two are possibly still original). Just looking for anything that could cause the off-throttle/lift-off jerkiness. I'm fairly convinced that both the warm restart chugging/stumble and the metallic rattle on cold start (it either does one or the other, sometimes neither but never both together) is the timing chain and tensioner. I'm not expecting the diverter valve replacement to change either of those, but hopefully it makes some positive difference. We shall see!

@lol-lol lets stick with the UK and what is what now and coming soon. Even ZAPMAP is crap but somehow they think they are the dogs dangles.

Our 2015 Fabia. 1.2 110 bhp DSG, total of 23500 miles, still on the original pads, would expect them to last to at least 50k on the front and over 100k on the rear, based on last 20 years experience, but its very much down to driving style. Garage that does the yearly service always reports on brake pad wear.

Not sure this is specific to my Karoq, but probably other models as well 🤔 The dealer ran diagnostics on my car and satisfied themselves that they had identified the problem and provided the solution. Unfortunately, this was not the case and it has to go back again for a replacement part. My question then is whether they automatically clear codes on the machine, or if this is operator choice, since clearly the faults returned within 5 miles of leaving the dealer! Thanks.

Ahh right thanks, I didn’t think it would have just been me, it does sound like they should have been aware. I’ll see what they say.

The thinking is already thought through and being implemented not just very much in the UK but in other countries who do act more quickly. 1) Solar arrays / canopies are implemented at EV charging sites by mandate to fit solar canopies and this is happening in many European countries as all parking sites over a few car spaces are mandated to have canopies and the EV charging actually come in after the solar canopies (and battery bank) have been installed. Small AC or single /dual bay sites can be exempt as impractical on scale basis. What UK and high latitude installs tend to forget is the solar panels should be point 3 ways ie East, South and West to catch best sun or have sun tracking ability like my solar arrays due to the wide direction sunlight can come from in this 50, 60 degree lattitude. 2) Small wind turbines, not the usual windmill design but Archimedes type screw design but it does need some 10 mph winds, lower than conventional wind turbine but still a good onshore, off shore type wind environment or hill etc. If not suited then the EV charging site will have to rely on batteries, solar and whatever Grid it van get. 3) Yes Public charging has to be improved and not just number of sites and location but the true speed one can get. Oft the EV can only get half its rated power due to the battery being a bit cold, or hot but 26 Kw is just dishonest the the charge providers. Google is excellent at reporting at reporting availability and cost in live mode on the display. I want to see a warning of low charge speeds ie 50 KW s or less or maybe 75 KW to me is a minimum rate upon plug in, might drop in to sub 50 KW for the bit above 70% which is acceptable but not in the 10% to 70% range IMO. 4) For the (88%, 50% whatever) idle time the local battery mega pack can be charging from the canopy, mains etc and be ready to deliver the stunning 1.2 /1.5 MWs when the next truck pulls up. Each site would naturally get its configuration. Being able to charge up the local batteries for free or cheap electricity, mine is cheapest during the day usually rather than night but a dynamic charging tariff would be best, though trucks, ofcourse, do work all hours. I see massive opportunities in develop these truck charge sites and BYD and TESLA have tremendous knowledge in these areas, just hope one of the UK charge providers can match these foreign firms, perhaps they will need another quarter of a billion pound investment. My experience of Gridserve in the last few weeks suggests they have a big task in front of them and providing customers with only 26 KWs on a 350 KW rated charge is just **** poor.

The exhaust tips are the most expensive, I bought them from kopacek - around 450 Euro. The diffuser plus the reflective bar were around 200 Euro. They bolt on the original bumper.

@gareth71 Weather at the time was dry and about 17C. Like you I've had problems with assistive devices if it's icy. The heated windscreen clears everything but the camera aperture!

I ended up having to write several strongly worded legal letters, but I did get the money back from the garage

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I'd think that ferrite beads on the supply wire could help - Skoda dealership should have known that this would be an issue as lots of people on VAG motoring forums have been reporting it for years.

At the top of the infotainment screen slightly right of centre there should be a number in a circle, this is the amount of notifications of updates you have. Swipe down on the small bar at top centre of screen and press on notifications, any updates will be shown there and you can press to update and will update in the background or when the car is stopped. No need to stop and leave engine running.

Hi all, Fairly new to the website so apologies if this has been raised before. I’ve just had a front and rear dashcam fitted by the local Skoda dealer and the rear one knocks out the radio. If I unplug the rear and leave the front on all is fine. I’ve googled around a bit and it seems to be an interference thing with the DAB signal. Of course I’ll take it back to the dealer to sort it out but was wondering if anyone had seen this before and what the solution was ? Cheers

Hi all, Just got my Kodiaq a few weeks back after my Superb I’d had for 13 years was written off by a bus. 😡 Look forward to find out out more from the site, looks interesting 👍🏻

Hi - interested in any positive/negative experiences particularly around servicing as I am looking at a possible used Skoda to buy which has some prepaid service plan to transfer and I would have a few options on where to take it. Thanks

Hi - interested in any positive/negative experiences particularly around servicing as I am looking at a possible used Skoda to buy which has some prepaid service plan to transfer and I would have a few options on where to take it. Thanks

Hi - interested in any positive/negative experiences particularly around servicing as I am looking at a possible used Skoda to buy which has some prepaid service plan to transfer and I would have a few options on where to take it. Thanks