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Charger cables have been stolen for a while and as the price of copper goes up, and faster charges introduced, they need larger cables which become more attractive to thieves. It's a vicious circle really.

Thanks, so that's why Ofgem are posting those messages. I looked on some of the news channels and there was nothing there about it. So it was not scaremonging but there could be problems on the horizon. Maybe they worried because it has been really cold the last couple of days and people are turning the heating on?

World changing rapidly and things the UK had presumed it could rely on ie regular electricity from France's 50 odd nuclear power stations look more fragile now with low river levels providing insufficient cooling water and it is the same over much of Europe. Many EV owners from UK to New Zealand, South America and much of Asia have learnt better to trust one's own power generation at a country and personal level. The hundreds of millions who now gave their own solar panels, most on a small scale of a few panels andmaybe car batteries are learning to survive without power generation from coal, gas and oil. If we many multiple and long backups it will be interesting to see if those of us witb batteries and panels get left alone to use the resources we have inveztdx in over the past years. We have seen bad aspects of society with thousands of public charger cables cut. Some of use could go a week without mains power. Our cars can act as big support batteries as well as our home batteries. These messages of government warning of potential energy and food shortages gave been kicking around for a few weeks and The Survivalist cult gave been round for decades. I have been following it since my teenage times. Only one of our 3 EVs has V2L but I am expecting that when the other 2 are changed V2L is a must have.

Greetings from Singapore. I am looking at getting a five year old Karoq in Singapore and have been reading horror stories elsewhere about the Front Assist making dangerous phantom emergency braking in other forums and chatgpt. However, I can’t seem to find any reports on this forum. How have your experience been with this regulation tech in your Karoq, any advice would be greatly appreciated. I had a terrible experience driving a rental Subaru in Japan with this kind of braking and I hope to find a way to reduce or prevent another one, although it is a good way of using tech to increase safety. Thanks Mike

How odd and weird that they have only just suddenly started posting this then, as we head into winter, just saying.

Thanks for your response. Well that's the thing it doesn't come up with an error code. On the scan page it shows the same symbol with CHECK, but it doesn't show anywhere that I can see as an error code. I will run it again tomorrow and see if there is anything that I've missed.

What’s the error on OBD11? Driving at high revs heats up the exhaust and helps cause a passive regen (burning off the soot) but if that’s not the key issue then it’s not the solution to the problem. You could have a sensor breaking down which is sometimes causing an implausible signal - driving at high revs does nothing for that.

I couldn't find any suitable tools to use the same approach as OP, so after work today I removed the rear bumper completely, reconnected the valance / under tray with the bumper off the car and reassembled. Probably took 30 to 45 minutes in total, and was quite straight forward. I took the valance / under tray off in the first place to allow access to replace a faulty parking sensor, but doing it that way was a complete pain. If I ever have to replace a another sensor I will absolutely just remove the bumper from the outset. As an aside, my local Skoda dealership wanted 2 or 3 hundred quid just to investigate the parking sensor issue I had, and another independent garage I went to refused to change the faulty sensor for me as their scan for faults didn't show an issue with the parking distance control system, even though I was convinced one sensor in particular was broken. I bought a new sensor from eBay for 35 quid and changed it myself, and all is now working perfectly. Just glad I pushed through my apprehension and did it myself for minimal cost and a whole load of satisfaction 👍🏻

Any petrol model Octavia would be better than a second hand out of warranty PHEV.

'Energy regulator posts advice on social media shocker' Reaaaad awrabahhhhht it.

Cinch engineer visited as promised. Couldn't find anything out of spec with either the battery or alternator. Although didn't put a charger on to boost the storage. Other than visiting a main dealer not much else I can do. But prior to that I've a couple of lengthy runs (100miles each way) so will have a see if that makes a difference when compared to the short ones I've being doing.

The national grid does not look to be very robust; Ofgem have started to post the following advice on social media.

@Adenauer unfortunately this is NOT possible, you have to replace infotainment reader to either full version of Bolero or Amundsen. Pls let me know if you want me to prepare the offer. @Keew62 I sent you in PM link to download MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0369T

@OccyVRS knows these cars, I don't. Hopefully he will be along.

Hi @pab567 Kevin from Denmark here. I just bought a Skoda Octavia 3 combo 5E5 and I was woundering if there are any updates to my unit. I am running bolero. Part number: 5Q0035840B Hardware: H30 Software: 0353 Media Codec: 3101.0.0.9 I believe there might be an update with the file name MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0367T (according to gpt) I’m am crossing my fingers. Best regards!

I think at this point I'd be concerned where they put it, rather than presume it being a case of administrative ineptitude 🤔

Diesel

Hi, thank you once again for your help! So, this is where it gets interesting... Cinch, being a massive moneysupermarket of cars, don't tend to give out much service history. I therefore did my own digging (calling MOT centres, online paid searches etc) to build a picture of the service history. Looks likes its head general maintenance (oil change, brakes +fluid, plenty of tires etc), but no indication of any other major services that I could find. I know, a little dodgy already, but that's just how they operate. Maybe car people like us are not their target market! In terms of remap, i have no idea if it would have had one, and I have no idea how to check. It hadn't occurred to me that it would have. VAQ wise, I'm pretty sure as this is a 2018 230ps model, it didn't come with a VAQ unlike the 245 editions? But please correct me if I'm wrong, and advise on how I can check if I have one or not. Is there any way for me to check any of the things you mention out through the infotainment system (in the Car tab, or settings etc?), or would it need to be OBD read to determine these things? I appreciate I sound like a novice, and to anything post 2000s, I am! But I would really appreciate any help I can get on this so that I can make a more informed decision as to whether to keep the car or not. It's a Meteor Grey Petrol Manual Estate which to me is the ultimate spec for these cars, so I don't want my attraction to blind me, and leave me stuck with a very expensive paperweight when it turns out to be a dud. Thank you so much for your help :)

Thanks for the advice! I'm definitely going to wait and see till the diagnostics has been run before making any decision. Out of curiosity, please could I get some further advice if that's okay? If you were to list what sort of issue you would accept, like the sticking turbo actuator arm, vs what sort of issues would lead you to walk away from the car, how would the lists look? That would help me massively once I get the diagnosis back to decide whether to keep the car or not. Appreciate I'm asking a lot, but if you knew of any other threads that might cover this list of accept/reject faults, that would be greatly appreciated. I really want to keep the car, but I don't want to make a 5 figure mistake if I end up keeping a dodgy one...Thank you so much for your help! :)

It's a 2l 150hp engine that's done 118591 miles. Oil change done at 118488. Last full service 12/09/2025 at 112689. Last fuel fill up on 21/09. Light came on either 27/09 or 28/09. I ran the OBD Eleven on 28/09.

I joined many years ago when my late dad had a 2002 Fabia. I am now looking at buying a new car and the Octavia estate is looking good. Any insights into which model or engine (petrol) works be really useful.

This is my original thread. There are some pictures but not of the extraction but some helpful videos and general discussion... https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/528615-spare-parts-where-to-buy-from

Those failures are common failures. Moving parts on cars wear out so its expected at some point although I'm surprised at the very low mileage and several failures for the bushes and arms. It is very poor road conditions in the area of the car? Country lanes poorly maintained etc?

I've changed 2 glow plugs on my Octavia 2L TDi in the last year. I have a bike torque wrench which goes up to 20Nm. The maximum removal torque is around 25Nm/30Nm depending on the manufacturer. Tightening torque was 12-15Nm which is basically nothing. Both glow plugs came out easily with just a little bit over 20Nm. I sprayed them with WD-40 the night before, drove it during the day and the replaced the glow plug a few hours after I came home. The electrical connector is easy to remove if you have the access to grip the plastic body lightly and pull up. In the Octavia forum there was a very helpful technician who said that, most problems removing the plugs occur when they have been changed by someone before who has overtightened them. From the factory they usually come out easily. He recommended not to overtighten when you refit them. There are some videos on YouTube that even say to only hand tighten them. I chose to tighten to the minimum and haven't had problems since. I used ceramic grease on mine, but I was surprised that, apart from the heating tip, the rest of the glow plug was pretty clean for 225k km and 12 years use. My advise, is don't worry too much, be gentle and slow applying pressure & if in doubt, stop. Spray some more and try again, leaving it to the next day if necessary. Gabbo

Hello guys, is the problem witaj vibrations solved? I havevthe same problem with my new skoda. Skoda warianty servicd said that it is normal. I couldnt find solution on polish forums. That the reason i’m here