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Gandalf (MY17 Superb 220 FWD) is currently on Stg 3, producing 400 hp 550 Nm at the wheels. Previously I ran Stg 1 for approx 5 yrs before going to Stg 2 briefly then Stg 3 last year. I've had no issues with any of the stock hardware over the many years. The Stg 1 was an APR Hi-torque tune producing 300 hp 540 Nm at the wheels. Supporting mods then were R600 intake, turbo inlet pipe and elbow. I also had a TCU tune, which made a big difference. Now I've got an IE intercooler & downpipe, Garrett Powermaxx Turbo with stronger injectors. The Galano TCU tune has a Boost-by-Gear function that is specific for the FWD, that does an impressive job putting the power down through the front wheels without wheel spin.

F28 is heating Windshield if you have. When Not, this is the Error

Yes, missing

Hi, thanks for your patience and time. There's no fuse in that spot. Maybe the cowboy mechanic who replaced the ABS removed it. Is it possible that 30 should be in the 29 spot? I'll get another one and see if that works.

I’ve just checked the wiring diagram for left-hand drive models. SB29—meaning fuse 29 in the engine bay fuse box—is a 50A fuse; it should be supplying power to the fuses that currently have no voltage.

My mistake, the under bonnet fuses are good. Just needed to turn on the ignition and those ones are live. Interior fuses 32, 34, 35, 36, 37 and 38 have no power.

Ok, so fuses 13, 14, 15, 21, 22, 23 and 24 under the bonnet have no power to them. I'm guessing there's a plug or two not plugged into the back of the board. Any tricks to lifting the board out, I don't want to make things worse. TIA

Hi, full refueled this evening and 17th fill-up in a row under 7.0l/100km. Not that bad for a big 1840kg bear with 200HP. 🙂

@JR RS I think that's a question for you! 😉

Dragging this up, did anyone ever have a confirmed higher stock output from the 220 engine? Looking at doing a remap but not wanting the full 300bhp that most quote, would be happy with 240 - 280

Welcome to the club

Hi, glad you joined. I drive an Octavia 2014 petrol

Hello again, to convey my previous experience, but I also need a little help. I have been researching this dq200 hoping to solve the problem myself because the price they are asking in Belgium and surrounding countries is crazy. After watching a lot of videos on how to disassemble and assemble, how to test various parameters, I found that I lose pressure very quickly, that the pump works properly and builds up pressure, and I established that it is not a mechatronics problem, but a pressure accumulator or an aluminum plate. Since I couldn't test where the crack is (I don't have a compressor or suitable adapters), I bought a replacement accumulator Kinergo MSU04 for pressure, oil for the mechatronics and for the gearbox, as well as the digtung cover and tubular oil filter and prayed to God that it wasn't a plate. I did not measure how long the pressure holds before replacing. Now with the new one it lasts about 18-20 seconds Does anyone know how long the pressure accumulator should hold pressure while the car is idling?

Indeed. The withdrawal of the Federal EV credits caused sakes to drop big time. EV sales have recovered a lot with fyel doubling in price. The Buzz will need to be biult cheaper, LFP pack etc and buyers happy to pay for a premium over rivals.

Cahill in Dorchester

I thought they were not building in the USA in 2026 until dealerships clear stock.

yeah gates or dayco, for example, OE timing belt for 1.5 tsi engine is made by Dayco. For the Volkswagen Group's 1.5 TSI engine (brands such as DADA, DPCA), Dayco produces the main camshaft timing belt (catalog number 941060, 20 mm wide and 163 teeth) and the smaller oil pump or water pump belt/belt (catalog number 941160, 81 teeth). It is about Dayco HT (High Tenacity) patented technology, better known in the automotive world as "White Belt". The white layer on the inside of the teeth is a special film of PTFE (Teflon) patented by Dayco and bonded to the basic nylon-aramid (Kevlar) fabric that covers the belt teeth. Extreme friction reduction: When the teeth of the belt fit into the grooves of the pulleys, friction occurs that over time "peels" ordinary rubber belts. Teflon dramatically reduces this friction. The belt slides smoothly and almost completely eliminates wear on the fabric of the teeth. Protection against lateral wear: The belt moves slightly left and right during operation and hits the edges (flanges) of the pulleys. The white PTFE layer also covers the lateral parts of the teeth, protecting the belt from lateral "backlash" and cracking at the edges. Modern 1.5 TSI engines have high direct injection pressures and develop enormous temperatures under the hood (over 120°C). Classic rubber would harden and crack over time. The Teflon and advanced HNBR rubber from which the belt is made remains elastic and stable for years Internal structure (fiberglass): Behind that white layer and the rubber, inside the belt are strands of high-modulus fiberglass woven into a spiral. These ensure that the belt does not stretch at all over the years and kilometers, thus keeping the engine's timinge perfectly accurate. you dont need that for alternator belt, but i read this on Autoteile.

Ha! I'm planning a drive to Prague next month. Couldn't have picked a worse time for petrol prices... I wonder if they'll give me a discount for driving a Škoda?

Hello, I've just got back from a bit a difficult road trip across eurpoe where my skoda superb estates' infotainment system got stuck in a reboot loop. I managed to stop and buy a USB-C memory stick in germany and have brought my system from P1560P up to P27800P which fix the problem and at least some of the journey home was a bit less stressful. I'm now trying to go the rest of the way up to P33200P, but I believe I need a stepping stone to P30603P first. I've tried downloading MOI3_EU_SKMQB_P30603P.zip from mibsolution.one three times, but when i try and extract the archive I get a CRC failure. Is this a common download problem? Do I just need to wait and try again another day or could the file be corrupt on the server? Thanks

Not tried it, I will do next time it's up on the ramp and let you know

What I'd love to know is just what the van was carrying, if anything other than the driver, possibly a passenger and their luggage on that trip. It also works out at an average daily drive of 139 miles. Isn't Volkswagen ceasing the ID Buzz because of poor sales?

The British Gas, Open Reach or Water vehicles are regularly sitting charging around this way so either the worker on a break / lunch or just sitting being paid while charging happening.

Hopefully many electric, horses for courses. Electric great for urban and with a few tens of miles radius and have the wiesel can be usex for the longer journeys and really cold weather. EV vans are getting better fast, batteries over 100 KWh, load capacity and cost to run far lower than diesel or petrol vans.

Loads of works vans about now, contractors for Councils housing repairs using them. Lots of utility companies as well.

Hi, Also running 338.322 (don’t know when it has been installed), i ´ve checked today. But still new updates installed today.