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It was the battery, I changed it which sorted it, although I have noticed it does the same thing if i leave my android auto wireless adaptor plugged in overnight too.

SFS? I have already 2 ( or 3!!) Skodas in my life, my vRS octy (mk3) which is awesome but need to fix the clutch, life been getting in the way, a nearly new condition L+K 1.8 octy mk3, amazing car but I don't need 2x Octys and this will probably return more back in value so going to be selling I'm sure. So why the hell would I need another car. But the Fabia, modified with petrol engine ( rather than diseasel vRS) would be what suites me long term, though I do need to get rid of the 2nd Octy really.....

All the basic setting does is disable any input from the front and rear sensor (should be two) at least, to differentiate front to rear leveling, the tech then adjusts the beam setting on the tester, the basic setting is then turned off allowing the sensors to influence the beam setting again. It is a bit like when you do your tyre pressures then push the set button in simple terms. You may have a seized sensor. One on the front of my car seized, no warning lights on, did the up down out in sequence but no range control. The ball joint had rusted and expanded in the plastic joint seizing it solid. Or like someone suggested, they are upside down, or more likely the bodyshop just fitted the lights and havn't coded them in.

Might be, but then again I did not notice these before. I will clean and check this though. But it is more jittery than before. Either way. If jonesi100 could share his experience?

Was this scan done with engine on? You should scan for codes with engine off but ignition on. Clear all codes and scan again. If you genuinely had these faults you would probably not be driving anywhere!

Hate red cars Meteor grey is the colour I really wanted

type

If your Company has one, get the fleet manager to pressure the stealer - surly in their interest to ensure no further damage to transmission.

AI says it's a wet clutch, yes it's a company car and under warranty but local dealer tends to ignore the 'issues' I raise and just do the routine servicing. 🙄 No other franchise nearby so was hoping some sort of gearbox learning reset sequence might have been possible somehow?

A cou0le of waders from today. Also messed about with a couple of old shots and extended them using the latest update from Apple. Very impressive tool, you can’t see the join🤣

Date: 2026-11-13 18:32 VIN: <Removed by Admin> Car: Skoda Octavia Scout Year: 2018 Body type: Estate Engine: CJSB Mileage: 124152 KM --------------------------------------------------------------- 02 Transmission System description: DQ250-6A MQB Software number: 0D9300018 Software version: 5202 Hardware number: 02E927770AS Hardware version: H54 Serial number: TFK01712051168 ODX name: EV_TCMDQ250021 ODX version: 001001 Long coding: 0014 Trouble codes: P072C00 - Stuck in Gear 1 Intermittent P072D00 - Stuck in Gear 2 Intermittent P072E00 - Stuck in Gear 3 Intermittent P072F00 - Stuck in Gear 4 Intermittent P073A00 - Stuck in Gear 5 Intermittent P073B00 - Stuck in Gear 6 Intermittent P072B00 - Stuck in Reverse Intermittent P174A00 - Valve 3 in partial transmission 1 Electrical malfunction Intermittent P174E00 - Valve 3 in partial transmission 2 Electrical malfunction Intermittent P072600 - Engine Speed Inp.Circ. Range/Performance Intermittent P079700 - Pressure Contr.Solenoid C Stuck On Intermittent P179D00 - Cooling oil valve Electrical malfunction Intermittent

No, the rear sensor wasn't impacted. The accident was at the front end. Only radar, two headlights, bumper with stuff and front cover/mask. Could anyone check the value from the sensor in Live Data? My shows 46% after Headlights Basic Settings implemented. Whatever that means....

Very unlikely there is anything you would be able to do yourself, best advice would be to get a DSG specialist to check it. Do you know if this is a DQ200 (dry clutch) unit ? Correction regarding a specialist - at 20 months old, this should still be under warranty, shouldn't it?

OP doesn’t have DCC so it will just be the rear sensor. So should. Have been impacted in accident.

I assume is 6 speed and wet clutch. The clutch material as it wears ends up in the oil. That’s why the oil and filter must be changed. As well as general deterioration of the oil. When new oil is added it doesn’t hold the same particulates and as such the clutches can slip until they are adjusted via adaptation. If it’s just that the gear changes are a bit hesitant or change up/down a little unexpectedly it may well be because it has had the adaptation done and it needs time to relearn your driving style.

Sensors may working yes, but was it fitted the right way round after the crash repair? Cause the leveling sensor arms that pivot can b fitted the wrong way round, and cause the headlight aim to misbehave. This how the 3x sensors on DCC equipped cars should look like this.... Front left axle Front right axle Rear left axle

Any recommendations on where to source replacements? Discoloured original 20 Yr old pair. Thanks

It drives pretty normally. Just more hesitant and clueless. I don't believe adaption has been done. It all started because I adhered to this interval.

That sounds more serious. Has an adaptation been done since oil change? It resets all the clutch bite points etc. if still jittery could be clutches wearing. Has it had all its dsg services at the correct intervals?

I did not have this. It only surfaced after a DSG oil change. Now there is some jitter and hesitation when driving off. And jitter all over the place.

I’m 100% sure it’s a result of trouble code scan with engine on. I panicked myself in the same way previously.

Hatch back equivalent with virtual cockpit, a year newer and £3.5k cheaper! Love the colour too! https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202610197135577?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios-app

Firstly, thank you to all that suggested and helped in my previous post. I have now in fact established that the system is electronic not hydraulic as first thought. I have now concluded that I have an engine oil leak but once again I am unable to establish exactly where the leak is. I have enclosed some pics. which I am hoping, may be enough to get some guidance where to start. l advice and suggestions gratefully received. Model : 2014 Rapid 1.2 Eng.No. CBZAF48167 (NH model)

I'm in my 10th year of driving a Kodiaq. 2 diesels followed by current petrol. All 7 seater SEL models. Grey. Then Red. Now Cheapskate Blue (when Red got silly at £1,000+ extra). All these Bears were preceded by 6 years in a Superb estate. All great cars. But a full tank of fuel is getting close to £100. Today I twisted the arm of a local dealer to order up a Race Blue Elroq VRS at a reasonable price (PCH). Hope to see it on 1st of April when the current contract ends. You know what it looks like. (thank you Autoexpress for photo) (ps - I placed an order yesterday for a Polo id to replace my wife's lovely Polo in April too)

And a couple from yesterday 🍂🍁