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hmm possibly? but with the bracket feeling like its been bent i thought that perhaps it just fell out of the bracket at some point? no idea is it safe to take the ECU to look at the bracket? ive seen some videos online of people just unplugging it but i dont want to ruin the engine by taking it out incorrectly

I had a 24 plate Skoda Octavia 1.5 TSI 140 PSW. About 6 weeks after getting the car it started to develop faults. Initially started with the car not letting me reverse out a drive as it thought I was going to hit something and kept emergency braking. The car went into the garage but no issue was found. The errors then escalated into other warning messages, mainly front error assist, hill start assist, tyre pressure warnings. Not long after these started I got into the car to drive home and when I started the engine about 12 error messages flashed up one after the other and I was put into limp home mode. The car went back into the garage but once again after three months no issues found. One thing I had been told by a Skoda roadside engineer is that the error codes are cleared out 15 minutes after the car has been locked. I managed to get the car handed back and took possession of a new 26 plate Skoda Octavia. This one has the same 1.5 TSI engine but is the lower powered version at 116 PSW. I had to take the lower powered engine to keep the prices the same due to the facelift done on the Octavia. This new car has already thrown all the error messages on the dash when starting the engine up and now regularly shows that the front assist is not available. This happens whilst driving then clears but there is nothing blocking the radar. This new car has also got another issue that I have read on other forums for other models with the same engine. The new issue is the car cuts out when travelling at low speed especially approaching junctions / roundabouts or in heavy slow moving traffic. I have tried reaching out to the executive complaint team to try and hand the car back but they are now pushing me back to the branch. Given the error codes are wiped when the car is locked I don't see the point of letting them have the car to find nothing. I would like to find out if there are any other owners who are experiencing the same issues.

Only a month, its very low mileage for the age 43k, its got 2 months warranty on it still. Ive been doing some digging and would the n75 solenoid vibrating on the firewall cause this? Suppose ill check in the morning.

Hi everyone, I bought an RVC High camera (4M0980556A) on AliExpress and installed it according to the wiring diagram. After coding, the camera worked, but the image on my MIB 2.5 Amundsen was distorted/glitchy, and I had a few communication errors with other modules. I then reflashed the camera via ODIS-E to 5Q0980556B (as suggested on some forums) and loaded the dataset for the Octavia A7 FL. The communication faults went away and the dynamic guidelines appeared, but the image distortion remains the same. The only DTC left is for calibration. I'm currently working on a calibration tool, but I'm worried that calibration isn't the root cause of this image distortion. Has anyone experienced a similar issue, and what could be causing it? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Welcome to the forum. A 12 year old DQ200 DSG might well need new clutches. How long have you had the car and how many miles has it done?

Been a bit busy managed a few random shots before heading to Ireland via Bristol

Ok, so for further updates with new mechanic number 6: We took it to a new mechanic, who was apparently the first to check if combustion gases were actually getting into the expansion tank; we got that color change test kit, and it stayed blue. Next the mechanic first bypassed the EGR cooler. I drove the car for about five minutes, but the expansion tank immediately started filling with air and pressurising again. I drove it back, and he kept the car until the following day. He then also bypassed the water-cooled charge-air cooler integrated into the intake manifold, which is the large metal unit that takes the compressed air coming from the turbocharger. With both the EGR cooler and the charge-air cooler bypassed, the expansion tank is now holding coolant normally and, so far, is no longer filling with air.

Car has a weird humming noise when pressing accelerator, it dosent make the noise when idiling only when accelerating over 1k rpm. Have attached a video. VID-20260911-WA0023.mp4

Hi New member here. Drive a 26 plate Octavia 1.5 TSI 116 horsepower

We'd hoped to see the Battle of Britain Memorial flight today but Coningsby was all closed up (they might be staying in Duxford?) so we took a ride to Waddington and arrived just in time for their return! 1460650~4.mp4 1460707~3.mp4

The ECU might of been replaced or more likely removed and opened to be remapped as early on it could not be done via the OBD port.

Thanks for the tip. I have various good quality SD cards but they are all micro ones that I use with an adaptor, it seems to have been ok for maps updates, but as this is crucial I am going to buy a new full size San Disk one from Amazon. I am the same thinking about it, 99% of the time I use Carplay and the steering wheel controls so I dont think I will notice it too much hopefully!

This is the Octavia Mk 4 forum, you need to contact a mod and ask them to move this to the correct forum

Hi everyone, I would like to share my current diagnostic findings regarding a DSG7 (DQ200) issue on my Octavia and get some community feedback before I proceed with the repair. Vehicle & Transmission Details: Model: Škoda Octavia Combi (2014) Engine: 1.4 TSI (103 kW / 140 hp) Transmission: 7-Speed DSG (DQ200-MQB / 0CW) TCU Hardware: 0AM927769K (H43) TCU Software: 0CW300047E (v5260) Symptoms: On a cold start, odd gears (1, 3, 5, 7) are missing completely. The car only drives in even gears (2, 4, 6) and Reverse. After driving for about 10–15 minutes (once things warm up and the pump runs constantly) and restarting the engine, full gear functionality returns, but the fault codes remain stored in the module. OBDeleven Scan Fault Codes: P284F00: Shift Fork "A" Unrequested Movement P283C00: Shift Fork "B" Position Sensor Circuit Live Data Diagnostics (Ignition ON, Engine OFF): Hydraulic Pressure (Pressure supply, act. press.): Started at around 22 bar and rapidly dropped down to below 3 bar (eventually hitting nearly 0 bar within minutes). Normal operating pressure should be 42–60 bar. Clutch Wear Check (Point 3 - Point 0): Clutch 1 (K1): $22.9 mm - 7.5 mm = 15.4 mm Clutch 2 (K2): $23.5 mm - 11.3 mm = 12.2 mm Conclusion & Plan: The clutches appear to be in very healthy condition with plenty of remaining life. The issue is clearly a severe loss of hydraulic pressure caused by a cracked pressure accumulator housing on the mechatronics unit. My plan is to remove the mechatronics unit (leaving the gearbox in place) and install a reinforced repair kit (such as Kinergo steel adapter kit) along with fresh hydraulic fluid (VW G 004 000) and new seals. Questions for the forum: Does this diagnostic data 100% confirm a cracked accumulator housing as the sole root cause? Has anyone performed this specific repair with a reinforced kit on the 0CW / MQB platform? Is there anything else I should inspect or replace (e.g. shift fork bearings) while the mechatronics unit is off? Thanks in advance for your insights!

You may have put fuses back in correct place and the steering should come back after a drive. Quite normal after battery change you get a few warning symbols Turn full left and full right and take it for a short drive and steering light should go off. When you checked the wipers was the bonnet open. Skoda in there wisdom disable wipers if bonnet is open for some reason. Caught me out before. Alasdair

I really like mine. I pretty much only use Android Auto so don't miss the physical buttons. Just make sure you use a good SD card. Pretty sure mine was a fake and didn't have the capacity it claimed so the installation files weren't actually on it.

Scratched clean. After the service and supposed body inspection. Best hand it over clean and with a note inside Do not wash, and tell the service desk at handover and be sure it is written in the tag put on the keys.

yes it does feel like the bracket is loose, the bottom part of the plastic feels bent and seeing from videos online it doesnt look like its meant to be 😅

Thanks. I really shouldn't look on ebay. Found a screen unit with a tiny scratch at an absolute bargain price.... so it looks like I'm going ahead with this after all!

Hello all, Does anybody tried to use the new Osram Night Breaker LED Speed H4 bulb in the Skoda Fabia MK3? Best regards.

My sons ecu was loose due to the plastic bracket being broken. If you feed a couple of long cable ties behind the bracket and then secure the ECU in place it works perfectly. You may have to join the cable ties to get the length required. Alasdair

Wash and vac, bring it on

hi everyone,i have MK3 SKODA OCTAVIA 2014 1.6 DIESEL ,recently i changed battery and after came message on screen ,wipers not working,steering wheel not working,so i looked at fuses inside car under glove box,and one fuse i didnt put in rightplace,now came message i need to go to workshop....?i can upload picture

UPDATE! I think i have found what was causing the rattle, or rather I hope i have, it seems the ECU was out of its socketWhatsApp Video 2026-09-10 at 12.42.46.mp4 This was the noise it makes, its not consistent when it happens but mostly happens when accelerating hard and uphill and sounds like its coming from around the air box what it looked like when it was discovered hopefully put in its socket, and took a picture of the sticker to find out what it is Although there is still some rattle, but the mount itself feels loose and can still move, is that normal or has the mount also come loose? you guys were also spot on with the door loom, just popping the cover off also disconnected the central locking so it was def on its last legs, ive booked into a garage to get it repaired next week

Thanks. That's how I see it, which means the dealer service manager has quoted the wrong service. Which suits me - much of the rest of it will be covered by the MOT and going forwards the car will be on All In. I reckon they changed the brake fluid to 2yrs so it would line up with the EV service - it's included in the 2yr service for an EV to help justify the cost as there's pretty well nothing else to do. Still feels like a scam - I've asked indie's about it and they just laugh and say they'll check it, but it won't need changing.