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Your Skoda is effectively an Audi or Volkswagen. The main components are shared across all VAG vehicles. The only way to justify charging you many thousands of pounds less than the equivalent model with a posher badge is to leave a few piddly little bits off. Prop the boot floor up with a stick or something, and when Covid allows book yourself a nice holiday somewhere overlooking the Mediterranean with the money you have saved and as you sit there in the evening with a carafe of wine watching the sun go down you can contemplate whether the trade off was worth it....... ......... .

Hence the idea of a V8. lots of "grrr" without breaking any speed limits. Anyhoo it's for me to enjoy and bystanders can either shake their heads at me or smile. I can't stop the future, but I have a bucket of sand on standby to stick my head in and hold on to my dreams as long as possible

Anyone giving a MK1 the love it needs to keep it on the road whether it be a 90hp SDi or a VRS gets my vote and admiration

Welcome! Cheers for the kind words Really sorry for not getting back to your comment before now, and sorry to everyone for the lack of updates recently. Lockdown's been a struggle but my love for the car remains and there have been some pretty serious upgrades over the last few months. So yes indeed, the downpipe has now been fitted! And better still the generic remap that I bought the car with has been replaced with Racingline's finest ECU and TCU software to match. Huge thanks to Adam and the guys at AWTuning (http://www.awtuning.co.uk/), I couldn’t have asked for better service from beginning to end, thoroughly recommended. They fitted the downpipe, checked and adjusted the rest of the Scorpion system, fitted a REVO lower engine mount bush to help control the engine movement and got the ECU and TCU mapped all within the space of half a day. Monster effort! Downpipe looks lush in the engine bay! And how is it? Excellent. Smooth as butter when trundling about and then just strong, linear power all the way to the redline. Previously it would hesitate occasionally under partial throttle, and the power felt like it tailed off towards the redline - not anymore! I opted for ‘pops and bangs’ to add a bit of drama and I was nervous as I didn’t want anything OTT, but I’m pleased to report that they’re very nicely judged. Only active when pushing on (and disabled in Eco mode) you provoke it on overrun when backing off the throttle at higher RPMs to give a cheeky but authentic sounding crackle/pop. Can’t help but grin every time!

I have had a 1.5DSG sportline since Aug last year. It is a fantastic car. Smooth powerful economical beautifully built and a pleasure to own and drive BUT the low profile tyres are absolutely shocking on anything but smooth roads. I recently made contact with a small pothole on the M11 and thought the front suspension leg had disintegrated. Previous car was Karoq SEL and ride quality was superb.

On what basis? it's accidental damage that is covered under the policy. They might ask for a contribution if a new engine is required and betterment occurs, but other than that it'll just be paying the excess.

I agree, there is a bit of that. As for the comments re Shell - I've kept detailed records for many years and hundreds of thousands of miles (sad, I know) and never, never, never found different brands of fuel make a difference to consumption. BP, Q8, Shell, Murco, Esso, Texaco, Asda, Sainsburys, Burmah, Total, the lot.

Off topic warning! Was chatting with a mate at the weekend about posh fuels. He has a vrs tdi (vs my mapped 150 tdi) and always uses supermarket fuel. I pretty much always used v-power and gained a couple mpg (based on the couple of tanks regular when first getting the car). The main time I did notice it was when forced into using regular fuel and not able to use it on longer runs. The v-power was noticeably better around town if I kept using it. However, I do understand that many people see no difference. I think it requires a certain type of driver and journeys to see the benefit.

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OK - as many will know, i've been on here from the days of my first Skoda Octavia vRS....circa 2008. A big detailing fan and once an OCD detailer..... but family life has been busy of late. Just getting back to it.... We treated ourselves to a new car for Christmas 2020.... so far focused on enjoying the drive, not actually washed since collection! Process (& products) in todays routine… my first wash of this car in my ownership:- Pressure wash to soak & loosen surface dirt; wheel arches flushed Snow foam treatment using Waxplanet Eight Below, 10 minute dwell then rinse Alloy clean with dedicated wheel bucke, EZ brushes and CYR wheel wash pad Chems used on wheels are Garage Therapy (GT) Wheel Shampoo, then GT Iron Oxide treatment to follow. 2nd Snowfoam layer using GT Decon Shampoo via the snowfoam lance to aid removal of old protection 2 bucket method wash with Simplewax Sudz shampoo and CYR wash pad Rinse & then Dry with Detail Freaks Absorber towel. De-tar with Autobrite Just the Tonic Decon/Fallout with GT Iron Oxide. Re-wash treated panels, rinse and dry. Some localised polishing tests with my Flex DA (Angelwax compounds used); removing some minor defects – but car still needs full polish. Car waxed with EZ Car Care Graphene Wax Protective glass wipedown with GT Quick detailer Alloy Wheel wipedown with Sonax BSD Door shuts wipedown with Sonax BSD Tyre conditioner applied using GT Tyre Serum. Next time out:- Continue polishing duties on more intricate areas – front and back bumpers + sills Interior duties…. Waiting on new interior mats on order from AutoStyle UK. …or maybe I won’t have time – will end up being a quick wash! My neighbours are used to it by now…. approx 4 hours worth spent on this beauty. Sunny Sundays are generally detailing days - really enjoyed it! Cheers, Ste.

Hi, we can quote L postcodes. However, only with certain insurers. The main providers we use for our club/forum scheme (where we have the greatest pricing flexibility) decline some of the L postcodes based on their claims experience. And this is why we check the area before wasting your time going through an entire quote. It comes down to the digit after the space in these postcodes and depends on the overnight parking arrangements. That should have been explained to you and I believe the Manager you spoke to afterwards confirmed that it hadn't been properly explained. Insurers change their criteria frequently based on their claims experience and other factors, therefore, it may be the case that we can offer you a competitive quote at your next renewal. Sorry we couldn't help you this year.

Your Octi is looking fine in the sunshine! Good job. You go to a lot more effort than me, but the results are great. I wouldn't say I detail, but I do always wash by hand and like my motors to look clean. In my part of suburbia, I am the only one that washes their cars by hand. Washed my Honda on Thursday. Process (& products); 1/2 bucket of shampoo for cills and wheels. Clean cills and bottom edge of bumpers first - seperate noodle mit. Alloy clean - Car Plan wheel cleaner, let soak for 2 mins. Then scrub with wheel brush and finish off with my wheel and cill mit. - Rinse off with rain water. Pre soak car - rain water as its free! 2 bucket method wash with Turtle Wax Car Shampoo - It's not great, but I bought loads when Wilko had it on sale at £1.50 a litre, so I'm going to use it all !!! I have a proper valeters bucket with grit guard, because you've got to right?! Rinse car off - I use 3 big watering cans to avoid wasting water. Dry - microfibe cloth Polish glass - Triple QX - cheap and works well enough. Tyre dressing - Triple QX - cheap and works well enough when tyres treated twice Interior, Just needed the floor mats removed and brushed off this week.

Let me introduce you to my project, hopefully you find it interesting. It's a ex Leicestershire Police MK1 VRS, 160k miles and a total shed! (Don't be fooled by the photos of the outside, they make it look much better then it is). I've been looking on and off for the last 10 years for one of these, from the time the early ones first started to be retired from service. My plan was always to preserve one in its original police spec, and that's what I hope to do with this. My plans are to get this back to a decent useable car first, while researching it's police history. I'd like to be able to use it without fear of catching the plague from its disgusting interior. I need to strip this out to dry it out as it's got the usual soggy footwell. I'll try to keep this thread up-to-date but it will be a slow process as I don't get much free time to work on the car. Anyway, enough waffle, here's a few pics of the car in service and also what it looks like now. If anyone happens to have any pics of the car either in service or when it was retired or knows the car and can share any history on it that would be appreciated. Credit for the in service photos goes to their owners on Flickr and Facebook

Hi all, I'm noticing oil temperatures around 105 and 110 °C when driving slightly more dynamic. For example on highway at around 100-105 mph or when pushing it on normal roads for a few minutes. Not sure there are even high or not. For example a friend of mine said he is getting temperature only around 95 °C when pushing it on the highway. What temperatures are you guys getting?

The turbo is coming from 1.6tdi Peugeot partner. Its no problem too spool it up with this turbo. Its Just for fun. On top it makes 0.7bar and it makes 0.2bar on 2.500rpm and over it Just goes up. Everything is original on engine🙈 Im driving without the lambda now, have too buy a New because the old was broken. Its No problem too take it too red limit in 1gear. 2gear too 5000 then it goes in epc mode. I will update when i gate new lambda in, think it will work much better. received_454384988944330.mp4

Whether someone alleges it was your fault or not it was as you say an accident, plenty of motorists get paid out for claims for new engines after driving through flood waters which to me is in most instances no accident but a voluntary act of stupidity. You make a very good point about the hire car etc, if you are going to pay for fully comp (I am still act only insured) and protected NCB and have benefits like a hire car then you might just as well use them or not have them at all, its simply the numbers in your case that make one reflect on the decision, I'm sure even if there is no engine damage the bill will still be jacked up by a new undertray, oil level sensor, oil & filter change etc. If it were me in my circumstances (and I recognise yours are very different), someone who works on his own vehicles and has a paranoic mistrust of the motor trade & accident repair outfits, I would try to plug the hole enough to refill the sump to run the engine to test it, if all was well I would spend £100 on a steel sump and tell myself I have saved around £200, got a free oil change and an uprated sump as recompense for my lapse

They do now. I believe at the time, the quoted interval for the originally installed belt was 4 years.

Honestly don't know. I was surprised you could get a sump guard for an Octi. The firm have loads of the listed for various motors, so get in touch to find out! If you do fit one, let us know.

I have a scantool it doesnt show any faults mate Cool man ill do it this weekend, thanks for the advice 👍

If I run Sport mode it won't sit in 6th at a cruise... it keeps dropping back to 5th (VRS DSG). This is after manually running through the gears till 6th gear. In fact mine wants to more than red line in each gear so I always change up manually before the red line. I've done this so often I'm no longer sure the car will change gear in sport unless I tell it to. I must be getting old but I can't abide having to take the car to and beyond red line to use Sport... so I very rarely use it now.

TT joints basically give the car -1.50 degrees of camber not too much, not much like the mk3 lower arm which is longer and by itself gives you -2.50 of negative camber. If the car is a daily driver, the TT will do the trick. If it’s used as a track “weapon” the other is the option but may require washers to avoid the cv joint to pop out.

Wee update...ive taken the car for a proper run along the motorway in 4th gear and it seems to have done the job...thanks for the advice guys.ill defo use this forum in future 👌

Yes, its a bit pointless really as pulling a fuse and then measuring the current re-powers any electronics or modules on that circuit giving you a higher than normal reading. You were right in making sure the car thinks all the doors and bonnet are locked by frigging the locks, you want to turn off any interior alarms and lock the car for a while and wait for everything to go to 'sleep' Then measure on a mV scale across all the fuses with a reliable multimeter. There is a document explaining this somewhere which I will try and dig out. https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/tsb-and-matrix-for-battery-drain-issues.254875/ Use the tables at the back to work out current draw from the voltage drop and the size of fuse you were measuring. Good luck

Insurance costs increasing after making a claim, is sadly just a fact of life. A deer in Kings Forest took out my Pug 308 on 1/1/2020. What a way to start the year! That deer is still affecting the premiums on both our cars now, nothing I can do about it. At least Mrs W and me were ok. It's only tin and rubber.

All fixed. It was the blower motor and it was a dash out jobby. Local garage did it for £280 all in. Thanks for the advice everyone its blows a fkn whooolyyy now 😂

The clutch pedal didn't get replaced as it ended up not being the problem, the master cylinder was. Unfortunately, the master cylinder is still plastic but it seems like preventative maintenance will stop it making noise if it is kept lubricated with grease that won't dry (that's how mine went bad, thanks Skoda!)

Phone them up instead of using their rubbish online parts by reg number system. The staff have a better interface that they can consult to get closer to the correct parts, I believe. Or use another motor factor before all such choices disappear and ECP have a monopoly.

Go with the G13. This is the latest version and what the garage put in my 1.6L car when they replaced the water pump. The total capacity of the coolant is 8.6 litres and a minimum is that this be 40% concentrated G13. The back of your 5l container will show concentration against protection temperature. This info is in your car handbook. If you need one, you can download it from the sticky up the post page. I would remove the bottom radiator hose to dump the old coolant.

@e-Roottoot Ah yea sorry i missed the word Pilot because i added the 's'. The Pilot 4s (replaced the Michelin Pilot Super Sport name) is a different tyre to the Pilot 4. Always my goto tyre if its not a Cup 2 type of car. Ah ok. Makes sense the mapping is off. If there was a physical traction button i wouldn't mind the spin as much (as i can adjust throttle rather than traction being all aggressive) but cant be going through the menu to turn it off just to take off the line every time i guess. I'll try it later with it off to see how it behaves actually since i've not tried with it off. Thanks

I've read with interest your troubles with this car and think if I had had a quarter of the problems you have had I would have gone back to a bicycle. The real problem here is if you are unfortunate enough to buy a lemon it remains a lemon. I hope your next vehicle, whatever make, is a lot more satisfactory. Good luck.

http://bbc.co.uk/news/business-56245666

Great, I look forward to seeing what you do! Hopefully the thread will become a useful resource for Briskodian's when choosing products, or when we encounter specific issues. At the very least, we can ogle over beautiful motors!

Great idea Danny - i like it!!! After a busy couple of years with one thing or another - i fell out of love with detailing. This weekend i got back into it..... with a new car purchased at Xmas and some new product samples given to me for test. So - i'll try do a proper post later when i get time.

Ok. Do do a follow up post once the mechanic does the adjustments, as it will be helpful for others to know if this could be a fix for their boot rattles. Seems rattles do crop up from time to time!

225/35 and 225/40 are not ETRTO recommended sizes on a 7J rim. I would go for 215/45R20 front and 235/40R20 rear on those rims. That should also help give you more confidence and safety when cornering on the limit. Outside diameter of 215/45R20 is 701.5mm Outside diameter of 235/40R20 is 696mm So when the front has 2.75mm of tread wear, it will equal the outside diameter of the rear tyre. Or in percentage terms, the front tyre has an outside diameter 0.8% more than the rear. Not only that, but there are two matching Michelin tyres in those sizes. Michelin Pilot Sport 4S PS4S - 215/45R20 95Y XL https://www.camskill.co.uk/m63b0s9268p196556/Michelin_Tyres_Car_Michelin_Pilot_Sport_4S_PS4S_-_215_45_R20_(95Y)_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_2_Noise%3A_71dB Michelin Pilot Sport 4S PS4S - 235/40R20 96Y XL https://www.camskill.co.uk/m63b0s11827p167799/Michelin_Tyres_Car_Michelin_Pilot_Sport_4S_PS4S_-_235_40_R20_(96Y)_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_2_Noise%3A_71dB 235/40 also isn't ETRTO approved for fitment to a 7.5J rim. However, it fits a 7.5J rim better than 245/45 fits a 7.5J rim, which is an ETRTO approved fitment. The problem with ETRTO's approvals, is that ETRTO groups tyre sizes together. According to ETRTO, 225/35 and 245/45 fit a 7.5J rim, but the tyre size in the middle of these two tyre sizes (235/40) doesn't fit. ETRTO has grouped 235/35 and 235/40 together, and because 235/35 doesn't fit a 7.5J rim, it follows that 235/40 doesn't fit (even though it does). A second example is 185/70, 195/60, and 205/50. According to ETRTO, 185/70 fits a 4.5" rim and 205/50 fits a 5.5" rim, but 195/60 doesn't fit a 5J rim. The reason being, is that ETRTO has grouped 195/50 and 195/60 together (along with 195/55 and 195/65)...and because 195/50 doesn't fit a 5J rim, it follows that 195/60 doesn't fit a 5J rim (even though it does). In fact, the 195/60 tyre size fits a 5J rim better than a 205/50 tyre size fits a 5.5J rim. A third example is 185/50, 195/60, and 205/70. According to ETRTO, 185/50 and 205/70 fit a 5J rim but 195/60 doesn't...even though 195/60 is in the middle of the other two sizes. Again, ETRTO has grouped 195/50 together with 195/60 (along with 195/55 and 195/65)...thereby preventing the approval of the 195/60 tyre size for fitment to a 5J rim. In fact, the 195/60 tyre size fits a 5J rim better than a 185/50 tyre size.

You’re a star, thank you!! I think we will get the GCB, but one never knows! I’ve been in this position before; I’ve never come across a dealership that will wait for this to be awarded. We’re budgeted down to the penny, literally, and have nobody to approach for a temporary loan. In all my years as a Motability customer (I’m sounding my age now) there’s never been a dealership that will let a car go without that advance payment in their hands. I get it; they’re following the rules and they want their money. You’ve given me some great alternatives for which I thank you hugely 😊

At the moment not giving any trouble whatsoever. coolant wise, using mocool, replaced all the g13 from the system. dsg shows same temp all over the day, 6 runs of 8 laps each. As a caution measure, will change the dsg map. Tvs or rtmg, still trying to know experience from other users but none seem to take this to track that much. Engine oil, reaches 120 /130 Celsius. Using Ravenol RUP 5w40. No signs of oil usage. 10.000 km service 450cc of oil. Soon, more upgrades to the puppy.

Artistic stoppers.

I had exactly this and more at the end of last week. With handbrake on, ignition on and lights on I got the ASR and red coolant over temperature warning on dimly. With handbrake off, ign on and lights on I got the LH turn light and ASR dimly lit. With lights off and handbrake on I got the ASR and over high coolant lights still on. This problem was after a week of strong wind and rain and a long time of no use. I suspected it was water somewhere as the whole car was "steamed up" as soon as I closed the door and was reluctant to clear with a fibre cloth. [My car never normally has condensation as I use the climate control even in winter to keep the humidity low] So, the fix: First I left the bonnet open for the whole of a sunny day in case it was water around the ecu - no change Secondly, on the dryer sunny day of Saturday, I left all the windows open with the car locked. When I checked in the evening everything was back to normal and has stayed that way. Conclusion: I believe the very high humidity, (perhaps I have water leak somewhere) resulted in water droplets forming across terminals in the electronics inside the car. See photos for details. Note the camera aperture is set to make the dim light more visible.

Welcome. ? Will you not have the 'Good Condition' payment of £600 coming to you when your current car goes back to help with an Advance Payment of £599 for a Seat Ateca or £695 for a Skoda Karoq DSG? A SEAT Arona DSG is on NIL Advance Payment this month and i find the seat height of those suited me as well as a Karoq / Ateca for easy in and out, only less room when in, but the sill height / width was more suitable for me than the bigger cars and the floor space and pedals were good. I use my left foot on the accelerator pedal in the factory position and keep my artificial foot next to the sill. The Hyndai Kona Hybrid is £499 Advance Payment.

My cat doesn't know how to upload photos!

Hello and welcome Shaw Gaz

Well, went to the nearest track I have, dropped the times and all I can say... JUST FIT THE RARB!!! amazing how it can transform your car. I know there are various brands, but just go for it! Cheers to all!

My cat checkin the rarb install. went for the whiteline in the hard setting!

Hi! Haven't installed yet. Ordered a kit from ECS that hasn´t arrived and I want to install this thing right from the first time. The wheels, I checked the OZ wheel catalog and based in that, I made the purchase, I tried some oz crono 17x8 but they rubbed. As for the bilstein kit, here in Chile we don't have the itv tuv or mot you have in europe. This kit is made for the mk3 fabia, wich uses, the same shocks of the mk2 vrs 6R/6C CODE. Weight wise, the same axle load +or -

Before and after pics. bought from Superskoda. front badge and back badge both fit just fine.

The infotainment data is limited. If you want an internet connection you have to pay for it. Use the hotspot on your phone. My android auto in the car doesn't mention wireless at all so I don't think it's an option. To be honest I'm not sure why people are so keen to have it. Ok useful for a 10 minute journey but anything longer I want my phone plugged in so it's not dead when I get there.