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This thread along with the "lost interest in detailing" thread got me kick started to sort the car out. A move from the South to the East, two kids and juggling work so one of us is about meant I had lost time and interest in sorting the car out over a regular clean. I had it professionally done (Gyeon) when I bought it 3 years ago. That coating had all but gone and was being topped up with spray on wet products. So with some time off, grandparents roped in for childcare I set to work. Well actually I set to work 3 months ago. I removed the tail trims and mud flaps, cleaned and coated with gtechnic C5 and Carpro DLUX respectively. My plan was Carpro CQUK 3 and Gliss along with DLUX for the trim. Naturally I ordered everything and treated myself to a black pack grille surround then the pressure washer gave up after 7 years (New Nilfisk C135 purchased) and then it was time for 4 new tyres. I'd worn the PS4's down and the rear Bridgestone had cracked so much they had to go. 4x Assemetric 5's it was then. So the normal decon process, tar, iron, clay etc. Polish was one step using Carpro Fixer on white hex via DA. CQUK 3 x 2 coats an hour apart Gliss x1 4 hours after 2nd coat of CQUK. DLUX on the trim Gtechniq G1 on all the glass Gtechniq C5 on wheel faces only Shuts and behind lights with Sonax PNS Started at 10:30 finished at 1am (well 2am) Not the best driveway pics. The lower grille is not perfect I hit it hard several times but ingrained dirt remains. I didn't dress the arches either. The wheels could do with a refurb hence I only did the faces.

If you haven't read this it is well worth a look, experts basically saying why we love our car so much. https://www.evo.co.uk/skoda/yeti

This is my Superb Combi L&K MJ17 with quite a few retrofits and optical details.

Keeping it motoring related...

Likewise I have received personal calls from both Pietro Panarisi (1/2hour) and two calls from another lady again about 1/2 hour each and a promise of another on Tuesday to keep me updated with my issues. I was told that this is high on the agenda of the UK Board being driven with Technical at the Factory. Likewise I am impressed that al long last we are being listened to and have been able to get things registered and more especially driven towards a resolution. Most positively that we are now being updated on progress which helps to reassure. Further from conversations with my dealership I know that they are also liaising with the Aftersales Manager there - Brilliant. I have suggested that they may consider issuing a statement on this site in confirmation of their plan for resolutions to our issues.

Here you go. Got a good Android upgrade head unit from off AliExpress. Skoda features working also , and the sound is Brilliant - better than original and high end brands which I have also had in the past.

Hi, My wife and I bought our Yeti SE L 2.0L diesel 2WD in black back in July 2016. Having bought 14 brand new cars since 1990 this Yeti is by far the best car we've ever had and joy to own; the only thing I dislike about it is the stop/start function which I switch off every time I start the engine. Usually we keep a car until the first MOT is needed but we love this Yeti so much it's a keeper unless it starts to cost a lot in repairs. It's always main dealer serviced by DM Keith's in Wakefield and I look after it so it's still like new with less than 26,000 on its clock I've received an email from DMK saying the cambelt is due for replacing. The next service and MOT are due in July so I've booked it in for July for cambelt; water pump; service and MOT all to be done together saving hassle and DMK are collecting and returning it all for a total of £826. Depreciation reduces year on year and it has GAP insurance cover value £14,000 until July next year. What a shame Skoda dropped the Yeti from production; we'd have definitely bought another when ours neared 3 years old. Funds aren't a problem but browsing the web looking at new modern cars my eyes glaze over and I become bored. Most modern cars are just clones of each other; full electric or hybrid hold no appeal at all. Ideally we'd like a new Yeti without lots of electronics; we never use the Infotainment but we can dream on. Normally we travel a maximum 7,000 miles each year but because of Covid lockdown it will be considerably lower over the last year. Into lockdown last year we take this very seriously; the exhaust icon lit up on the dash meaning a decent run was needed our Yeti being the Adblue model; I must be the only one on the planet to have opened a police chatline requesting permission to take the Yeti on a decent run which was granted as long I was alone and didn't meet anyone; I took images of the icon lit and the mileage before departing then another image showing the icon out and the new mileage. Over the top maybe but I was covered in case I was pulled over. Following a tip I bought the following to try; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POORBOYS-BLACK-HOLE-SHOW-GLAZE-473ML-HIDE-SWIRLS-AND-IMPERFECTIONS-DETAILING/302087989807?epid=1230988384&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4655d8ea2f:g:EwcAAOSwip5cSDrn&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACgBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkpFtSR0CGv%2Bh98r8Yb9quS4O8hjFcKmTKABV6%2F9dLqHhynqpAhVM0YqL%2BCDi7qVfjUzhZorjhsqhfF1LHk6O0vDUtN984PiAh%2Br0F7i5eX7toFgxyrZPtHq1hTNBAmkGgZxR6JOAVv%2F7KPlB7VjEA8aCQ0KvBTGYzY%2F6E9arAO9LfdXo4Eu5L3Oev7ZdRuvkX56u0OZE%2BtCOhaWgK0kJFpOy%2BlOiy5tkGoyHt9Cw8xud%2BPRtfLBxDPF37%2BqRsh%2BQdKGDZLW%2FDjUZ%2FDQ9eye8FYZ02%2F49ws8Jk82VKGAbIVADbXt6FzfxT3WyboK6OV7%2BjyZ3WJjarwrG%2FFgSa33VWWuNc6qmjzmA793KB%2BI0Q48uHJN5OctON1LnCypjj3XmpRmTNrE%2FYoXKfrxkR60T5rGkUQwlGQLtnHFHmby93SS0yPuJfd1JvNB0tOi%2BMFqGJMkp2n9vSARHinWVHSTkIeAejQgitqx774DtO9u2vFyjEIY0TFJYG04CAj%2FhOefI1O4w6c7ZVwQrBuetWi65iW3E27ZPvSxSm4U%2F3sLqGthd7W6iGbBPT3oJF8crun8eUExGZSq0L8c7rlgz5YvEOdCQHZsYYSVHjIyTcNtHH%2FWH9NpUnoqXsRzBmr3%2FEOpfacW4B5AVKsXslXgizFwQZclGbtuLZhMHV%2Fttn6gJmxQhVILcXqFAR2Lb%2BlYH9kPPl4LwwaKC93vQyBjL4msRL2hiFtzgd3UTVTfAy9U4wt0WOBFXbBzB1qSWxcwAzDVsuGbLiJ9ywl%2F82V5RS5M%2F86N3a%2B0rG%2Fj2%2BthK%2F71DREBM%3D|cksum%3A3020879898077dc6ebe63a6844a2ab0ea1c169891ae8|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524 I used it for the first time this week and I'm impressed; normally if the Yeti is dirty I use bucket/sponge/leather but if not too dirty Williams waterless wash wax; the bodywork upholstery were treated from new so the Yeti is still gleaming. Two years ago we treated it to a set of Michelin Cross Climate tyres fitted on our driveway by "Tyres on the drive" costing £600; we've had little snow since. I'm just rambling on after a week of hard grafting in the garden; it's raining at the moment and a black hole so I don't feel like doing much. Kind regards, Colin.

I think the biggest complaint generally, and certainly mine, was the awful screeching racket that they made.

Seriously, just leave it alone, it doesn't need doing now and it never will. Changing the fuel filter on a petrol car is a form of self-harming related to OCD and possibly ASD.

Glad it's not just me. Found the oem shocks terrible. It's not as crashy as my last fn2 civic though. They are ridiculously harsh.

On the plus side, looking at the last few pics I would say you have definitely found out why the new exhaust is loud If you are doing it yourself and have the right diameter tube clamp, assemble both pipes into the tube and make sure they are both sitting in the right place without hangers straining and without touching any bodywork/engine etc,, then tighten the two bolts evenly and check again the exhaust is all sitting where it should. If you don't do this then its possible to tighten things up when they are in the wrong place and then you get rattles if the exhaust touches something or failures if the exhaust routing is wrong or mounts distorted/strained.

I'd try jiggling the release lever up and down while trying to push in the button. If you want to hit something with a hammer, I'd go for hitting the bottom of the towball under where it inserts into the towbar. If it hasn't been removed in a long time, the locking mechanism in there could be a bit stuck and a nudge with a hammer might help it release.

No, they are classed as wear and tear. Covered for 6,500 miles/6 months under factory warranty, no cover at all under the extended Skoda warranty https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/warranty Don't even ask how much they cost to replace...... I have DCC but find the difference in modes too subtle, just too bouncy/uncontrolled over speed bumps in Comfort, too bone jiggling over rough roads in Sport. Spends all time in Normal for me. Not really worth the £1000 I paid.

From the household that has too many Skoda's.....(husband says Shiny Skodas cos we keep on polishing them) Myself and my husband were not happy with our 67 plate Octavia VRS TSI - its a lovely car, but just not for us..... So - after a bit of negotiation, I am trading in our 67 plate Red Octavia VRS TSI Manual- for a 67 Plate Quartz Gray VRS TDI DSG 4x4 with a tow bar..... Fuzz-factors restored - hopefully picking it up next week

Hi , i drove the 1.5 is a Karoq and a 2020 Kodiak. Seemed fine and quite a spirited engine in 150 hp guise. As to the software in the Octy ,sure there are some improvements that can and will be made over time. Theres nothing major other than it doesn't remember your preferred settings such as climate and driving mode. 20 seconds and its changed to your needs. I have the VRS and i love it. Ok its fast but it has 600 ltrs of boot space. No other car in this segment has this amount , just 50 ltrs less than a Superb. As to heated windscreen , maybe save your cash on that , IMHO no need. I would go for DCC as the suspension on the non VRS is maybe a tad old school torsion beem. I may be wrong on that. I cant talk of the Skala havent driven one. My pick , non VRS would be the SEL with some nicer wheels added in a good metalic , say velvet red. You maybe have different options outwith the UK. Lastly DSG was a must for me but dont know if you can get that with the 1.5 ltr

I figured thats what you meant........... heres the bolt / screw https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/n90496802-screw-5-3x22-skoda-39761.html On the flip side, once the old screw is out, you "could" fit any little nut and bolt to hold it.

My dad(who owns the car I write about) is not the first owner. He bought it with glx equipment with front and rear fog lights, central locking, AC and power steering, no abs or airbag. And it has the same buttons on the dashboard as D.FYLAKTOS says and here is a photo:

I think it was Android only to start as the dongle only supported Bluetooth. They released a newer dongle with WiFi so iOS devices could use it too. The op screenshot certainly looks like iOS and when I checked the Android store on my phone running Android 11 it showed 0.35.

You can't beat a nice grit bin Nice photo (not meant sarcastically-just in case you thought I might have been )

Thank you so much. After your initial reply I did google the issue and, as you say, the first port of call should be to check the battery voltage (prime suspect given your reply and my recent issue with low battery voltage). Apparently second port of call could be to check alternator. Last port of call is anything that these warning lights might suggest - real risk of spending repair work money unnecessarily, especially if it only becomes a temporary fix, based on a reset.

I've used Autohaus Dolby on a number of occasions and can happily recommend them.

My third yeti a 2015 1.2 tsi elegance would normally be over its replacement date.But can't find anything better The boot takes a dog crate and fishing tackle all in a compact vehicle. If I feel like a change I go for a a spin in the wife's Suzuki alto. Yeti runs like a Rolls Royce in comparison.

Bought in Sept 2013

Yes it will

When i got my car in Jan , i ordered new rubber mats for £60. No problems with the fit

If you have this carrier on the rears (middle pic) you won’t have to take the carrier off to remove the disc, if it’s not like this then you will need to remove the carrier to take the docs off (the carrier on the right of the pic ) ....

Definitely the car mats do we're using our from our Mk3 but the boot mat in the estate is slightly oversized!

So, I recieved a phone call from Ms Kennan this afternoon. She is dealing with a couple of our cases as well as Kate Laws. First, she rang me at a time that I was available, which was after work for her, so I was impressed. She was clear Again that they are in contact with the factory and that the problem of KPH is 100% a software issue ( I was very interested in this as it seemed to most of us to be hardware). There have been a number of conversations and meetings higher up about the issues. I was explaining about the issue I have with the juddering in mine plus a couple of other things also. In all I was on the phone for 40 minutes and this is the second time which I have spoken to her. I know that the proof is in the pudding but I have been impressed. Also, she has promised to keep me updated every couple of days and I have a personal number for her, which I have tried and she was very happy to speak. Skoda UK do seem to be pushing. Just thought I would keep people up to date. I hope my faith is not misplaced, but I do feel more confident

I've made the same choice. Though more expensive, I rather have the Sportline diffusor on my L&K. Note: The sportline diffusor is now ~150 € on superskoda. And If you buy it on Black friday, you can get -20%. Thus ~120 € is a good deal, I think, for those, who don't have it in a hurry. Otherwise, these ones from Milotec are nice too: https://milotec.de/Milotec-exhaust-screen-dummies-for-Superb-III-Alu-Brush::3344.html?language=en

It look like the same colour as Del Boy Ford Capri! 🤣🤣

I don’t think it is designed to do that, if it is dark enough to need the instruments illuminated, it will be dark outside as well so you need dipped headlights Not sure why anyone would want to drive in dark without headlights on

It is the easiest job in the world to do on the MK2, they really designed it well, easy to strip & lubricate bearings & free brushes, loads of dirt cheap second hand units available.

I would always go with the Octavia. Personally I prefer how the car looks. My personal favourite model is the mk2 pfl VRS. For me the Octavia is more practical for a day to day family car with my 2 year old daughter.

Hi, The front 340 TRW brakes are ok from facorty new . First sign is a slight delay in the wet. Then wear out quick. When you change them they are never as sharp or smooth, even with dealer brakes. Its a clamp over style caliper which is on the large side for a one sided piston clamp set up , Flex and no real power on the outer clamp side . The sliders are normally ok . So ... Get pads that make some dust which means they will wear in quick bed up producing a full face contact from new a lot faster. Pads that make dust wear out which is a lot better than disc cutting rock hard pads filled with metal. " Oh I dont want dust on my new rims "lol , you will have to have some dust if you want good brakes. To get a friction level you need one or both surfaces to wear out . No wear, no friction, simple, Buy hi carbon discs and not cast iron drain lids , Get advice on pads, The last thing you want to hear is , " these are good they dont wear out" Pads are ment to wear out, end off . Cheap discs rust up quick and wear out . The disc surface needs to be smooth and polished if the right pads and discs are fitted. On this brake the pad should just cover the outer edge and leave about 3mm on the inner , thats full face contact. If your discs look dull and scored with low pad wear , chances are your brakes are poor and you think they are ok . At 340mm on a Skoda A3 Golf they should pull your shoulders forward if you go near them , yet still be smooth under a controled brake say from 60 down to 20 Also they should also put you false teeh on the dash if you hit them hard . Mine do ,,,,,,,,,,, I dont mean my teeth lol Andy

You have a later vehicle and also have a defoaming agent in your fuel, they had resolved the issue by then, the MK2 was better than the MK1 but still bad with French fuel.

Pics as promised

Literally never experienced anything like that filling up.

I know - but thanks for even trying x

Thanks for that TMB

Sold! I'm getting them. Could you pop the link on at all? Cheers

The rule changes have mandated a big cut in downforce, allegedly to protect the fragile Pirelli tyres. It seems that both teams running a low rake angle design have suffered a lot from this change. Mercedes and Aston-Martin both off their usual pace. Red Bull have gained more (or lost less) from these enforced aero changes.

An escape to a bit of dirt

More detail or a photograph is necessary. How will people know what to inspect, why and where from the above description? I have just realised its your first posting on the forum, a belated apology and welcome!

Update on last post. The Fabia went back to our local dealership earlier this week and they have now sorted the problem, with the Auto Lights working as they should and with no delay in them coming on as before. Apparently they reconfigured the original Software update to show the car has Auto Lights which was the original issue. Other than that I have no idea what they did but suffice to say the car is back as it was !!

https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/lose-with-dignity-celebrate-with-grace-part-i/

Cheers, I wanted to share this pics with anybody who wanted to know how a Bilstein B12 kit would look like on the mk3. Car has equipped full Maxton Design kit and 19'' wheels with a width of 8.5'' and ET45.

Even though this is a big debate, i think most would agree that modern engines are in much less need of the owner's ultimate attention for running in, and the impact of that is also nowhere near as great as in engines of the past. Still, the principle is to introduce the engine to higher revving gradually during this 1500km period. That does not mean one should baby the car as if there's an egg below the throttle pedal but rather, take your time to warm up the car and gradually rev it higher and higher as you cover most mileage up to the 1500km mark. Very roughly, up to 4500rpm for the first 500km, going higher up to 5500rpm till the 1000km and then even 6500 once closer to 1500km. The thinking is that the engine goes through the full range of the rpm during this period before the moving parts settle and so is able to develop its full potential. That implies proper warm-up of-course, oil up to 90deg, and gradual operation.

Just to remind people who have a 2wd multilink rear...so VRS & L&K...you can bolt on to the existing holes the part that was made for that rear subframe...all info here in the how to guide I wrote on the MK7 Golf forum https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-retro-fit-the-rear-subframe-harmonic-damper-from-the-audi-a3-saloon-2013.369369/

Looks like I’ll be going down the cheap route. 100mm thick insulation board/kingspan, cut to the shame of the fitted pieces then fix the factory fitted pieces on top. And much cheaper!!! Plus I’ve got a Travis Perkins just up the road. Plan starting to come together, thanks for the advice. Oh, and winter tyres now on the rims and said rims on the car so let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.