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You could just unplug the electrical connector from the Compressor to stop it operating the Compressor clutch. Then get someone to run a diagnostic to see what is putting the engine into limp mode. The 1.9 Tdi of that era is pretty bullet proof. May get a few more years out of it.

I haven't been too active during the last months as things have been pretty busy both at work and at home on several levels, but I felt an update was long due and so here comes a last, much deserved write-up... PART 1 - ROAD TRIP After a few failed attempts, lot of hesitation and procrastination, during summer I finally managed to do the road-trip that I was longing for since I got the car and (as it turned out) the one every Superb is built for: nearly 5000km across Europe, all the way from southern Sweden to Greece and back What a trip that was. Blasting down Autobahn and other European highways with all comforts turned on, car staying planted and smooth even way over 200km/h that kilometers were disappearing so easily behind us in hundreds. First thing I realized driving a modern and gadget loaded car for such a long distance was that while I didn't actually lower my attention and focus on the road, that thought that IF something unexpected was to happen, the lane assist, the adaptive cruise, the emergency brake etc. would provide an extra safety net (as it happened once) took some of the mental stress off and allowed me and my co-pilot to do 1500km in just the first day and still get out of those wonderful SportLine seats around 23:00 without feeling exhausted or unable to continue by any means. I was truly blown away by the comfort at which we had travelled despite the fact we were keeping as high a pace as realistically possible. Originally the plan was to judge how the trip developed and plan the night's stop on the way but at 1000km we were both feeling quite fresh still, 1200km the same and so we continued to the next big city on our way clocking a nice and round 1500km on the trip odo in just 14:40hr of drive, around 3hr of which were stops and customs/borders controls. After that, the remaining 1000km seemed like a piece of cake the second day and so it proved to be. Another point worth mentioning: the car was tuned with REVO stage 2 map, loaded down to the last cubic cm in the boot (first time ever that I managed that), not running the recommended intercooler upgrade for stage 2, and was continuously accelerating to higher speeds when road conditions allowed (including a few top speed runs at the Autobahn) for 14 hrs and yet, it didn't miss a beat / ever go over 105 C / or act unusual in any way, what a testament to both the gen EA888 TSI and the optimization of the tune that REVO has accomplished 👏 As people who have been following my past threads know I was already a big fan of the car but upon completion of the trip, I realized I was really missing out a very important and impressive aspect of this car until that point, which was the way it can cover miles at such an astonishing (especially when price is taken into account) pace and comfort that one (myself included) would think is only appropriate of premium German sports saloons. In the end I was so thankful I went ahead with this plan for our vacation this year or I wouldn't have got to fully know my own car. Boot packed (literally) and ready to set off, there was stuff even in the spare wheel compartment... I s "Necessary" top speed limiter removal confirmation at some long and relatively empty Autobahn bit. The picture is so clear and steady it feels almost fake but it echoes what I mentioned about smoothness and high speed stability. I let off gas at that point but I swear it had some more yet to give, crazy all things considered... First night's stop. Consumption was closer to 9 - 9.2lt/100km before hitting some huge borders cues, which for our pace / power / weight I believe was incredibly good. Just stuff you can't do with an estate 😄 Part2 to follow...

No problem. That oemwolf.com site and the skoda-parts.com one are both handy for researching part number equivalences.

I suppose that why the setups are between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn where there is loads of sun shine. Scotland is perhaps the most wind rich country in Europe but this year has been oddly weird, an Atlantic La Nina or something as wind has been lowest in 50 years. Tidal and wave power are much more consistent and reliable though one might need to store for more like a fortnight rather than half a day. My source of cheap electricity is nuclear as that is where those power stations are whacking out tens of Gigawatts and very low prices after midnight until people get up for work. The pump storage stations in Scotland, Wales and Norway all feed the UK grid as well as nuclear here and in France. Lots of plan to increase pump storage in Scotland as well as battery storage stations to temporarily hold as this made power that needs a storage place for a few hours or maybe longer. Some may use their EVs as temp storage place but I doubt I will even if they pay me a few pence per kilowatt.

An impact screwdriver is exactly what you need

I like to leave all my fog lights on, to make sure people know I don’t drive the entry level spec model. Like and follow for more life tips.

Stripped the front brakes on my 2007 Fabia VRS TDI and the M12 bolts that hold the brake carrier stripped the threads out when removing the bolts! Repaired using ‘V-Coil’ (heli-coil type) kit. Posting this as no one else seems to include parts/sizes etc. It's an easy job with the right parts and tools: Parts: 2x M12 x 1.5 x 35mm Bolts - these bolt the carrier to the stub axle. (Both these part numbers are genuine VAG: CFB606B-2 or N90708504) – Around £7 for two bolts! V-Coil 4022 12mm x 1.5 Metric Fine Thread Repair kit - £35 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00EO4MPC4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This kit includes; 12.4mm drill, 12mm tap, 10x thread inserts (around 15mm deep), insert tool & tab removal punch. Thread lock Red - e.g. Loctite 2700 WD-40 Specialist Cutting Oil - £6 Tools: Drill with 13mm chuck (engineering drill with keyed chuck if possible) Tap wrench (large enough for ¾” square tap or make one up with ½” T bar, sockets & 10mm straight Hex) 18mm socket (for carrier bolts & wheel nuts) 12mm or 13mm socket (for carrier slider bolts) PZ3 screwdriver (for brake disc screw removal) The main issue is drilling out the 2x holes with the 12.4mm drill bit, you need a drill with a large 13mm chuck and strong enough to stop the drill bit slipping!) I used a heavy duty SDS Plus drill with an additional attachable chuck (key type) so I could fit the normal 12.4mm drill bit, I initially tried drilling very slowly but the bit grabbed straight away slipping the clutch on the drill. In the end I had to start at full speed then try to slowly move the drill through the hole, this worked but pulled the drill through the hole very quickly (very difficult to keep perfectly straight!). My top hole ended up on a very slight angle. I was going to use the cutting oil for drilling but didn’t get chance to use in the end. Just try and make sure you drill through straight as the carrier bolt holes don’t allow for much error. Ideally it needs an old slow speed engineering drill with 13mm key chuck and no clutch. I didn't have a tap wrench but discovered the end of the M12 tap fit into a 3/4" square socket, so I used a 10mm socket on the tap (wrong way round) and used a 10mm hex bit to go into another 10mm 1/2" socket and then onto a 1/2" 'T' bar. It was slightly loose but worked fine; just hold it straight when cutting the threads, use the WD-40 cutting oil and backed in/out when cutting the threads. I didn't have any brake cleaner so used normal WD-40 to clean out the cut threads, then washed out with white spirits. Once the threads are free from oil screw in the V-coil inserts, put Red thread lock on so they lock in. I screwed them from inside the wheel arch until the inner face was flat, so the extra insert threads could be seen sticking out (about 5mm) when looking at the axle, then break off the insert tabs, I didn't bother removing the extra screw threads as they only stick out as much as the original bolts. You could cut/grind them off if needed but not a lot of point. Re-fitted the carrier and M12 bolts are now nice and tight. Good luck.

When I have had this issue a cold chisel on the edge of the screw head impacting the screw in an anti-clockwise direction has always worked. Other option is blow torch with a fine flame then spray with Plusgas (personal prefered option over WD40) when hot, as the heat then chill can load/unload the threads to slightly free off. The heat can also draw the Plusgas into the thread. If you do drill the screw out and destroy the threads in the hub don't worry as the screws only function is to hold the drum on while the wheel and its bolts are fitted as the drum is spigotted onto the hub for correct concentricity.

There’s 2 winter pack options…do you have the heated screen?

The drill might take a few goes until it wears down the torx "teeth" to make a nice round hole. Should get easier after that.

I think you do not have heated rear seats Ask for refund.

More than a decade ago I loved driving at night, long distances. The increasing number of cars on the roads doesn't bother me at all, but there's a non-negligible percentage of cars (not so new) that retrofitted "not so legal" front lights - those are really ruining the night-driving experience. Either too strong lights, or Xenon headlights without auto-leveling system, the list is long. On the Rear fog lights topic I think symmetric (2 left-right or 1-centrall) and asymmetric are equally good; as long as you can see the car in front on thick fog, it doesn't really matter.

Yeah, I read somewhere (don't know where) that they got a significant shipment of semiconductors from Malaysia...

That is sorted these days. People put in a pair of very bright registration plate lights and off in the distance you think a vehicles is coming towards you. Some have these white lights to the rear brighter than the tail / position lights. It used to be cool (supposedly) to remove the number plate lights, now it is cool to stop those behind seeing the plate because of these LEDS,s.

Also added under bonnet insulation that comes on the e-up, I love also since drilled the other two holes that the citigo bonnet doesn’t have and fitted the other two clips

I agree for free stuff would never last. End of the day, it's much easier to just charge at home overnight and get ~3p per mile. Since COVID, my mileage (Sep 2020 to Sep 2021) in Skoda diesel have dropped from 8k to just 2k. While between MOT mileage in Leaf only dropped slightly from 8k down to 6k. This 6k less diesel miles have saved me about £600 in fuel alone. Unlike fossil fuel, batteries are not single use. They are made with embedded carbon footprint today, but after life in EV, they would be re-used as stationary storage. After they have completely exhausted their usefulness in 20 years time, they can be recycled. Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. In this order, for everything. Reduce desired mileage requirement in EV's and demand higher efficiency for more miles instead. Reuse battery after their life in vehicles, finally recycle it.

The one that’s leading my search has a 7 year warranty on the battery, others have 5/10. I don’t know what vw group are offering. I don’t think it’s a problem for a lease/pcp and hand back. Besides, when fuel hits £2 a litre and ICE cars are banned from city centres you could claim their values will tank. Right now whichever way you go you run a risk.

I’ve got lots of information I’ll try not to ramble too much, long term this is going to be a citigo with full up gti kit, engine, 6speed box, brakes, suspension etc. Ive wanted to make one for a few years and up gti prices are very strong so not hugely viable, however I’ve had a right result and purchased a 68plate cat b up gti with 18k on clock and no intrusion into engine bay , some pics of the citigo when I brought her a couple of months back 62plate se spec with 72k on clock, lovely eBay wheel trims 😂

Good afternoon everyone, I want to remove the rear drums on my mk1 to try and get the handbrake to work. Problem is the screws that hold the drums on are seized solid. They won't budge with a screwdriver and all the drillbits i've tried to use to drill it out just seem to skip and don't drill it at all. Is there anything I can do to get them free? Thanks.

Early days … v pleased with wheel condition & initial driving around is very pleasant. Tyres all at 39 psi, an eco level slightly up from the light load 36 psi. Not “tested” grip in the wet. 4 wheel alignment tomorrow, so best hold off until completed. Tyres & wheels combo looks “ok’ish” but miles away from the great look of the 19” Skoda ones have to admit. Btw, anyone else thinking of getting Audi wheels beware their Heinz57 approach to wheel cap designs & sizes. Only got confirmed mine take the spyder version which covers both centre & wheelbolt heads … at £44, EACH from Audi. Even then there seem to be 2 sizes of centre void … hoping the Chinese clone version arriving from China in early December will fit but at £20 for a set, not end of the world if they don’t! Btw, the Audi wheels were off a Q3 & I did check comparative vehicle weights before going ahead … the Q3 being slightly heavier. @ 7J & ET43 very close to Skoda’s, so technically a pretty good fit. Will try to remember to post a photo when wheelcentre caps of some sort are fitted.

Yay!

Some more pictures of the seats, I’ve made them plug and play with airbag connectors, the passenger occupancy sensor was swapped over to inside the TT base, and seat belt buckles also fitted from the citigo seats. the TT mk1 seats i have fit before into a mk1 Fabia so remembered they were thinner then the usual late vag fitment. I will get them retrimmed at some point but we’re a bargain for £80

Maybe advertise 'For spares or repair' on enthusiasts forums. Briskoda is a good one.

I'd say the CD player became useless 15 years+ ago tbh lol

The only time I use recirc is when we are going thru smoke or a vehicle ahead is smoking etc, or for a few minutes after startup if temperature is below zero. It does not help with demisting much as it is recirculating the damp air.

Following this with great interest. Looking smashing so far.

Reminds me of this day:

Hi There, For what is worth. Seems that the Focal set made for the golf VIII is compatible but the connectors have to be replaced, is not plug and play, at least for the woofers. If interested, you would need to buy those from the VW Golf VIII (And other Skoda models btw). To be confirmed but I would say part ref. num. is the 1J0 972 923. Cheers.

Membership is £7.85 a month I gather. So would need weekly rather than month use to make it worth while perhaps.

The practicality of the Fabia knows no bounds... Well maybe except for a lamp...

Diagnostic Trouble Code

It would appear that you care about your car, so stay well away from touch up paints. As said, they're okay for keeping rust at bay, but it will look like your 3 year old did it. Chips away and similar companies can be hit and miss, depending on who's driving their van on any given day. Take the car to a reputable and well respected body shop and don't insult them them by trying to do their job for them. As said above, they'll have all the equipment in place to match the colour and do a good job.

If they're anything like my dog, I wouldn't want the hair stuck in with the paint 🤦‍♂️. Anyway, my comment was based on 'proper paint shop' being somewhere with a dust-free environment, given the context in the post I replied to. Using a facility like that would be considerably more expensive, I don't think that can be argued against.

Its all too much for many who just want to charge and drive and charge and drive. If it costs them then it costs them. That is many many EV drivers. I am still checking daily how much i use in electric each day only doing around 6 miles a day with 8-10 short hop trips of no more than 0.7 miles. I will start now leaving it to just 90% charged and topping up each day and see the difference from it being charged to 99%. It is next week before i have a planned multiday trip with a few hundred miles driving. There should be snow by that time...

It's the 2.0TSI petrol with 190hp (well, it used to have 190hp!) You can get decent gains from a tune/remap on the 2.0TDI as well

On the Octavia MK3, the 19" rims use 225/35R19 tyres. Due to the super low sidewall height, they are very prone to buckling and other rim damage. Best to get them checked before handing over any cash. It's not unusual for 3 out of a set of 4 to be damaged. Make sure you have good breakdown insurance. A big pothole can easily take out both left wheels resulting in a big problem if you only have one spare wheel.

Fitted them to my 18 plate karoq instructions supplied shows clips with spigot facing the plastic it should face the window rubber.

Altocumulus Undulatus I'm told https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Altocumulus_undulatus_cloud

We had the same clouds in yorkshire this morn

Our mileage on both cars has plummeted significantly since March 2020. Kodiaq down 40% on annual basis. Polo down almost 50%. Changes in family circumstances. Lockdown preventing travel. Various reasons. I’ve read most of the above with interest and agree that an EV car could replace car No.2 as I know it rarely travels more than 100 in a day. Actually it’s only exceeded 100 miles on 2 days. Doesn’t mean it’s back tucked up at home. But home charging could work for a second car. But car No.1 has to be able to go anywhere anytime. It’s not Range Anxiety. It’s “refuelling anxiety” as mentioned above. And I think the “free charging”. Free this. Free that is all smoke and mirrors. As for “all so green in the garden”. Are we remembering how batteries are made? And disposed of. Hybrid will be a no-no for me. Lugging 1/4 ton (ish) of extra baggage with a puny little pony engine ain’t happening.

ev cars are still too expensive to buy /lease for most households though, even with the so called incentives , and what about the small matter of government fuel duty loses. the official figure is 58% plus vat, personally i think they will already have plans in place to re-coup this loss one things for sure, you aint getting away with it 😂

Well, there was one Trabant I saw in Germany that had stick-on lettering reading "Trabi Twin Turbo 16 Valve Water Injection", which only just fitted between the rear lights!

Depends on your perspective whether that's a good or a bad thing. For a lot of people today, purchase price is a significant barrier to EV ownership, and in some of those cases (like mine) range is almost irrelevant; my daily commute is only 5 miles each way. I can/will slow charge at home without any cost other than the leccy. I'll never spend tens of thousands on a new car of any type, but I will buy 'end of life' cars that I know I can maintain cheaply myself. Just depends where your financial priorities lie. Horses for courses.

WD40 isn't a lubricant - use a bit of teflon / PTFE spray.

What’s not to like about the Lake District. Cleared up later :)

I tend to have the same opinion as you have a lot of research on the internet, I get the feeling Skoda UK are just ensuring lots of work for their dealers, praying on peoples fears. However I plan on keeping my car a 1.4 Tsi DSG petrol for a couple of more years till the electric car market has settled down and buy electric, and I can see that selling the car wont go well without proof of a cambelt change, so I am thinking I may as well change it now even though the cambelt will probably be ok. I will ask for it back and post pictures of belt and tensioners.

More progress made. Skim of filler, plenty of flatting and a coat of high build primer/filler. Still a few areas that need some flatting and a smidge of filler as they only show up once the primer is on and flatted. Picked up the top coat from a local autopaints specialist yesterday, hopefully get the top coat and lacquer on this weekend as the forecast is looking dry and mild.

Pound to a penny it is the loom.