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Based on VIN you have Bolero glove box unit 5Q0035842C and display unit 6V0919604B. I doubt this is power issue - the problem you described is typically caused by EMMC failure but it can also be flash or iMX6 processor problem. Flash and EMMC error can be fixed by replacing flash or EMMC chip respectively (in case of EMMC it als requires patching the unit). If the problem is caused by iMX6 then unfortunately you can just throw it away. I can try to repair it if you deliver it to me (Poland). I can also deliver replacement unit, unlocked (no need to visit Skoda dealer), or upgraded unit - Amundsen (with OEM navigation), also fully unlocked. Cost of Bolero is 165 GBP, Amundsem 250 GBP (with AMundsen you also get SD card with latest maps loaded and internal GPS antenna). Shipping cost not included - typically it's 20 GBP. Upon delivery you have to pay local import taxes (mostly VAT).

A couple of shots of Dunluce Castle from last week...

Everyone’s comments are here are right on the money. the water pump shroud is what allows the engine to maintain temperature. This is a known failure point and can intermittently stick in either open or closed position or somewhere between the 2. because of how efficient new diesels are, they will happily run at low load and be able to self regulate their temperature without any assistance. once under a bit more load the shroud retracts allowing coolant to flow freely through the radiator and assist cooling. This explains why at low speeds you’re just fine. Yours sounds like an intermittent sticking fault and will need replacing. This is a part of the cambelt drive system so should be done with a cambelt (5 year intervals). Personally I would be fitting what’s called a non switchable water pump. This simply does away with the shroud and although engine warm up is ever so slightly increased in time, there is no point of failure anymore. dealers I’ve seen quote between £700-900 for the job including water pump. not sure about independent garage prices. If you’re anywhere near London I also offer it as a service. If not, personally I would go for an independent garage and fit quality parts such as INA or Continental and make sure they get a modified water pump with no shroud.

Found vent covers on Amazon and ordered. Not sure how well it will clip though so we shall see

Finally removed the marble. It’s wedged in the right side foot well air duct. Metal marble as well so could’ve used a magnet but hey ho Didn’t remove all the trims, only enough to dislodge the vent. Will definitely buy mesh to cover the vent, any recommendations?

Well six year or ownership (two years in COVID lockdown) and the December 2013 Yeti has clocked over 200,000 miles. Bought the car in 2016 with 5,000 miles on it from VW, they were the original owners..All original except for two sets of rear pads, one set of rear discs, clock spring, one battery, three timing belts and water pumps, one AC tensioner pulley, a lot of mucking around at the start due to a badly fitted reversing camera, caused electrical problems, by the dealer we bought it off, oh an four sets of tyres. Which I think makes it a very good car and still running very well. Very early face lift 2.0 litre diesel 4x4.

I won’t tell more about the smaller size of the spare wheel. However here are the consequences of having it on the front axle. Since ot doesn’t spin at the same speed as the other front wheel, it will trigger: - ASR which will try to reduce fuel injection top stop what the control unit considers as lack of grip - EDS which will brake the smaller wheel on straight lanes, since the difference of rotation speed will be considered as differential slipping. - Haldex since different speeds on both front wheel will considered ad lack of grip and therefore a good reason to activate rear axle to recover grip and traction control. There may be other side effects from other control units as soon as you brake. ESP for instance… Well, not very surprised you feel it’s a mess! 😉 IMHO, just swap your spare wheel with one of the rear wheel until you can get your tyre repaired/replaced. Same size wheels on front axle will bring back both ASR and EDS in normal operation conditions. Grip will be more even on front axle and should avoid triggering Haldex.

there you go: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17h4myLSMpZ3dohgDJX25mkOhKLbyepEaeEeYcA3AqFY/edit#gid=0

I've punted the RaRo after 2yr and 11k miles. Some big bills were coming up despite it being completely reliable over that 24 months and if I'm honest it was a lot of money to be locked up in a car that I appreciated but didn't really love. It's been swapped for... a 2016 Suzuki Jimny. Really. Dealer made a decent offer for the Raro which involves giving me a wodge of cash back, buyer already lined up. Jimny will just be for the winter weather and shooting days, cash back will go towards soemthing interesting, probably fast and german but maybe a bit more left field. Wee 4x4 was low mileage and mint condition. Being sold as approved used despite the age. Getting new disks and pads then it'll be swapped on this week. Get some knobblies on it soon.

I've been following this thread for over a year now and share many of the frustrations posted. But thought I'd post some good news, ordered a blue VRS back in June 2021 (went for quite a few options, including the DCC, heads-up display and Canton sound system). So after 14 months finally got word the car has been built and finished at the factory, the ETA is start of October. Been a long wait and hopefully worth it, fingers crossed more people get positive news soon too 👍

The best choice is to leave it alone instead of making a slow, noisy plod magnet aka a tractor.

In my case, I didn't prove anything. I went to my dealer, I explained what happened. I said I had notice this seems to be a common issue on TDI190 on many VAG vehicles. The dealer opened a claim by Skoda France, even though my Mk3 was clearly out of warranty (4 years old when it happened, and never went to any dealer once the normal 2-year warranty was over, since I do all maintenance operations myself). I didn't have to argue, prove or beg. The dealer did his job as every professional should! 👍 I hope it will be that simple for @MartinMc1973 .

Well, if you get a home battery...... The problem with heat pump being more expensive to run is more to do with the broken electricity pricing. Renewables are cheap, gas powered fast-reacting plants are expensive. Electricity price most people pays are based on averages. If prices can be made to vary throughout the day, and the heat pump can be made to utilise cheaper periods smartly using the house as a large thermal mass, it should be possible to have cheaper heating than gas. Certainly, hot water over cheap 7.5p off-peak at 3x efficiency means it is 1/6 cost of using gas based on October gas prices. Store that cheap leccy in battery and off-set by solar throughout the day means it shouldn't be too expensive. Everything has to work together as a system. Only installing heat pump by itself, or retrofitting without good insulation and no careful heat loss calculations means expensive inefficient systems.

Yeah the basic maths means that ASHP will never be cheaper than gas. The efficiencies are statistical snake oil but being very simplistic heat pumps are UP TO 3x (300%)as efficient at heating water within the system than a gas boiler. So (physicists trick of a perfect model) imagine it uses 300 units of energy to heat a tank of hot water using gas. A heat pump at perfect efficiency should manage to heat the same tank of water using 100 units of energy. So super efficient and much cheapness yeah? No. The heat pump is using electricity not gas so each unit of energy costs (at least) 4x as much. Using the upcoming price cap for figures 52p for electric and 15p for gas) 300 units of gas will cost - £45.00 100 units of electricity will cost £52.00 so you’ve spent £20k on a new system which is super efficient and green etc and despite it using 1/3 the energy of gas you pay £7 more or 15% if the temperature is 0 efficiency drops to about 2x so the difference becomes £59.00 or a 133% increase over gas. But it’s actually worse than that. At low temperature to prevent icing the ashp will reverse flow and run defrost cycles on itself which is electricity you’re not using to heat your house. Heat pumps work on gradually warming your house as well so need to be on 24/7 unless the hot water is on. So you can’t take advantage of cheap rate electric. Weather changeable? Well you’re Screwed with heat pumps again. The slab takes about two days to warm through like a massive storage heater so you need to plot your heating to that schedule.

The vent as an S-shape near the entry so would be bit of a challenge to hoover it out. Managed to remove the pipe after lifting some of the carpet. I didn’t disconnect the wiring to the seats as it’s long enough to get the seats out of the way. Very fiddly job but not too bad.

I have the same spec and age vehicle, I have had it since the confinement so 2.5 years, it had 80k miles on it and I have put another 40k on which is very very high for me but due to changing circumstances, also very high considering the travelling restrictions. I intend to take it to well beyond 200K, my tyres which were not new when I got it still have plenty of tread and have worn equally so I may even beat you for tyre longevity, that has been a real surprise for me, they have lasted far longer than on any previous vehicle and with the 4x4 system I expected less life.

I have this box on mine.. its a 2015 octavia and its done 200k as a taxi. Its a sealed for life unit and they use a mineral oil. Don't listen to anyone who says they should be changed. Its fine 🙂

Can you use a hoover with a flexible crevice tool on it to get the marble out? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flexi-Crevice-Vacuum-Cleaner-Tool/dp/B002BZHU64

Try this process, should work, have to let me know if it doesn't.

That is good. People who have 100% of highway driving are not so lucky with their Haldex. That is a lot of Engine Oil & Filters though.

Hi @roottoot 90% of my driving is highway around eighty miles each way. So the gearbox and haldex get very little use. The gearbox has been serviced four times in that period. The gap to the most recent one was 60,000 miles and the mechanic showed me the oil which was still clean with only a hit of burnt smell. The haldex has only had one oil change at 60,000 miles and still works perfectly and will be done shortly. The engine oil was changed ever 9,000 miles however since 100,000 miles is changed every 6,000 miles.

Glad you understood the joke, and the serious point was that it tests the battery connections, battery top fuzebox and fuzable link. Unfortunately, it starts looking like a failure in the immobiliser, convenience ECU or if you're lucky the ignition switch. I suggest consulting a proper auto electrician, not a Skoda main stealer.

I do know that disturbing this connection is what's temporarily made it work again. I don't yet know if it's a permanent fix. As I said, there were no stored fault codes in the module. If it breaks again, then obviously further investigation (or replacement) is needed.

I fully agree with this, however in this instance, all signals come over the same digital canbus connection, so it makes no sense that some things would work, and some things not. I almost feel like it's a software / memory "bug" as the instruments cluster is a control module in it's own right. Perhaps a "reboot" was all that was needed. Time will tell...

My local Skoda dealer offers 12months complimentary roadside assistance with every service, the local Ford and Vauxhall dealers do as well check your main dealer to see if they do.

Last car I had with a cassette deck sadly was a 2005 Lexus GS300. Excellent car which according the Vehiclesmart is still on the road. Incompatible with E10 fuel though!

Needs to be scanned otherwise people will just answer with best, and probably totally inaccurate, answers. The scan needs doing with a totally compatible ODB2 scanner otherwise the results will be irrelevant. Hopefully you won't take this reply as a negative, but given with years of experience on this forum. If you have a spare key, using that is something that you could try as starting/stopping within seconds could be an immobiliser issue but this should not happen when driving, and other issues would not apply.

Whatever battery you go for, 2 things you need to consider. - Make sure the spec is the exact same, CCA, Ah, Battery type (AGM,EFB,LAB) - Make sure you adapt the new battery to the vehicle (many people call it ‘coding’ the new battery but it’s not, you are clearing the old adaptations and letting the battery management system know a new battery is fitted and to start monitoring it differently) This can be done with the genuine tool ODIS or something like VCDS

If you're not getting anywhere doing it the technical way, I'd be going basic with the fault finding. Take the outlet pipe off the fuel filter, prime it and see if there's a decent amount of fuel coming out. Pull the plugs out, see what colour and condition they're in. See if they will spark against the head. Do a compression test. Put a test "Noid" light on the injector plugs. Pull the injectors out put them in some test jars and see if they're spraying, and spraying well.

Your car has a sticking sleeve on the waterpump, if its not overheating now then it has retracted, all you need to do is disconnect the wiring connector to the actuator and your car will behave perfectly and reliably for the next million miles, it will however be a little slower to produce heat from the heater on a cold morning, that is the only downside. A diagnostic tester will not tell a breakdown mechanic that a vehicle has a blown head gasket, he likely typed into Google Translate "comment puis-je arnaquer ce pigeon Anglais?" (how can I rip off this dumb Brit?) 🤣

So if anyone else encounters this problem, I've managed to fix it (for now, hopefully it'll last!). All I did was remove the Instrument cluster, unplug the connector at the back and re-plug! I had to set the correct time again and the long term fuel consumption and trip values are now lost, but other than that it's all good. Thanks for your help everyone.

You can locate and determine the relevant part numbers yourself by using one of the online catalogues - THIS is one example for a 2.0 litre BMM tdi engine, which may be the one in your car. Having obtained a list of part numbers you can web search for offers and several sites will include measurements against their descriptions, or will offer an equivalent part but in another material such as stainless.

Couldn't tell you much about installation really, ours was part of the build spec. But really an ASHP needs to be the core of a building design, you decide that for a heating system THEN you build the house around that. Houses need to be ultra insulated and very draft proof which contradicts directly with clean air regulations from planning. So we have lovely thick double gazing with bloody great holes in them for air. ASHP needs to be coupled with a mechanical heat recovery system to allow the air to circulate without loosing energy. I'm currently trying to figure out how to storm proof bathroom extractors for winter. We had the pump serviced recently which might help efficiency, the engineer spotted that the flow rates on the manifold did not match specification. He's corrected that. Also spotted that the system doesn't have enough antifreeze in it. Brilliently these systems use a non-toxic antifreeze which is about 4x the price of glycol and they need about 170l of it. We'll need to put in another 40-70l to get it up to spec (£300). Ther service itself was £200 +£100 for the tuning work. In teh summer it's actually been cheap to run with the heatig off, it produces hot water very efficiently, We get a tank (150l) for about £1.50. But genuinely when my fix deal goes our winter bills will be terrifying, we could easily see £1000 a month. I'll be buying more wood for the log burner soon. What will really help is decoupling the electricity price from gas. We are a renewable only customer but see no benefit from that. ASHP will always seem stupid until the price of electricity starts to match gas, the the efficiencies in the sysem might actually start to make sense for people.

Nice, enjoy 🤝

I'm still on the middle of refreshing the suspension, but been trying to get some use out of the car while the weather is good. It looks ok from 10ft after throwing a bucket of water over it.

I bought a cambelt, tensioner ,waterpump and aux belt kit in one of autodocs many sales. I think I could have done the job myself but ended up putting into my local VAG indy to fit, just to be on the safe side. It's the only job I've paid to have done so far on this car. I also bought all new genuine engine mount bolts. I can't understand VAG pricing, some bolts were only £2.50ish and one was nearly £11!

I finally got round to replacing the seal on the gearbox and found a fitted the missing driveshaft heat shield

just ordered a new one its too expensive if it goes wrong at a later date to risk .

Noticed the same on many cars, not an issue worth investigating. Needle sits at top, and doesn't move for ages, and then begins to drop as you say. General consensus on the way they calculate is they have a reserve of 7lt (read in their documents before) that makes it appear to seem full for longer.

VIN is given to a car just before production. Its like a serial number that the production is tied to. MySkoda app will accept your VIN somewhere when your car is ready from production.

I'm not sure the 1.8tsi even has an EGR valve? - I think this function is carried out via the variable valve timing.

Morning All, I've just been informed that my car now has an unconfirmed build week of week 39 (end of September). So fingers crossed I'll be seeing my Hatchback VRS by Christmas 🙂

I'm pretty certain that those tyres are far too tall a profile for the Superb. A 45 or 50 would be more similar to the original size.

Taken last week in the south of France after a 900 mile drive 😀

Day 4 with my 272 L&K. Love it.

Call from the dealer to say my car is finished & is on its way to the UK. Petrol vrs hatch ordered in October 21 🙂

I did a customers 87 Audi Coupe GT with £2k worth of Dynamatt and liner, the car was 20-mm lower after...😁

Already done, as I noticed the title. Correct, there's very little difference in the two. I have all the ratios on my computer, but some people just won't have it and believe in the 6-speed better. I have no idea if the box is stronger to cope with more power, but the AUQ can still output 300lbft... EDIT. Found it -

So that's the starting point although I think I've put the wrong passenger wing pic up 😂 So gave the wings a wash and fitted them, more glue fun and games. And started stripping the door as it had come complete. So now I have a door shell I just need to get the taxi sticker off the outside😂😂 Also bought a 2016 interior off eBay having seen it's possible to fit this after reading someone's vrs upgrade. Swapped the airbag plug, was a bit concerned about the wiring but went for it. For those thinking about this I did brown to brown, black to white and blue to green. When battery reconnected and ignition on no warning light or accidental discharge of the airbag phew. And I bought a new steering wheel cover as the old wheel was a bit manky, this has also been fitted. It was a stitch on version Now the fun and games really begins. The rear seat base came as a single squab not the 60/40 split I have so I've stripped all the seat bases off and I will be modifying the seat base to fit. Watch this space. I also know the spigot the seat backs fit on are bigger on the mk 2 than the Mk3 trying to work out if filing the spigot or drilling the seat will be the best option, but for now here's where I'm at

Picked up my new Kamiq 1.5tsi dsg four days ago. love it already, so far, so much lighter and more responsive than the Karoq, loads of space, quiet , very smooth and already 47mpg. My twelfth Skoda and hope it will be equal to the others ( octavia, vrs, superb/ estate karoq etc)