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After 13 months waiting my SEL iV Plug in Hybrid arrived. All seems good with it so far, just to understand some of the infotainment features!

I've been following this thread for over a year now and share many of the frustrations posted. But thought I'd post some good news, ordered a blue VRS back in June 2021 (went for quite a few options, including the DCC, heads-up display and Canton sound system). So after 14 months finally got word the car has been built and finished at the factory, the ETA is start of October. Been a long wait and hopefully worth it, fingers crossed more people get positive news soon too 👍

Thanks for putting up with 16 months of moaning everyone 🤣

We can't get them, so there's no point and a 15k system would cost almost 30, with a low end system costing more than 15. Installation dates are a never never and most vendors are putting the price up more than the cost of this years energy bill predictions. I'm waiting on two companies who have both been honest to the core with me on availability and dates, with one looking promising as long as I go with the panels and everything they use on their small commercial installs. The other have said there is no way I will see a tesla battery this side of mid 2023. I'm so angry, because the reason we went with the installer was the commitment it and the other parts were in stock, but of course they withdrew saying they don't have stock. It's beyond disgusting and I notice we've hopefully had a lucky escape as they are now littered with similar bad reviews online. They don't just have no information they give official answers that directly contradict themselves (each from official sources) about key features. I'm looking at the ability to do an SS with some changes that might come in the near future and at that point a whole extra pile of cars come into the game. Got the MOT this week, so assuming that passes or the car can be made to pass, there is zero logic of paying lots of money for something that isn't what they said it would be and then paying high prices for fuel too.

Hello, My name is Ruben and I live in the Netherlands. For as long as I can remember I'm crazy of cars. Always have been, always will be! I tend to stick to cars for a while. Thus far I started with a Mk2 golf GTI 16v KR (still have it, in storage 😞 ). Moved onto a really nice Seat Cordoba Cupra (1.8 20VT) in the tipical blue, with (replica) 17" BBS CH wheels, coilovers... Than I was able to buy a Mk1 TT, 225ps S-Line in red with 18", Bose. In the meantime my wife drove 2 Audi A3 1.9 TDI PD 130, we really loved those cars. Drove the first from 300k km to 430k km. The second one from 180k km to 300k ->we decided to sell it because of a change in tax regulations. I was able to save up enough to buy an Octavia Mk3 pre-facelift RS! I bought it in Germany and imported it myself just before the prices went crazy. The previous (second) owner modified it a little. It also came with 2 sets of wheels (original 18 & 19"). I did already had to replace both magnetic valve of the camshafts. I also installed a removable towbar (for the summur holiday and bikerack). In April I started a new job so we replaced our second car for a Mk2 Fabia Combi 1.2 TDI facelift, EGR delete + chip, the milemuncher! I tend to be reader and do not reply that much. But since I now need some support (with the Fabia) I decided to say hi.

Stage 1 remap booked! I think 8th of October...

There is a 'known' 'unknown'. That is the GPF's with the 1.0TSI's. They have been fitted for long enough without many 'reported issues' on Social Media or Motoring Journals or anyplace. So cars doing high miles, low miles, short or long journeys, parked up lots or used every day. But we maybe need to get to 5 years before we know how they are after 5 years. We need to find out if the GPF needs replacing how much the part is and how much Main Dealers will be charging to do a replacement. Hopefully they are proven to be rouble free, have a long life and are saving the planet. EDIT / PS. My Typo 'Rouble' instead of trouble might not be so very wrong.

Although it's sometime since the post was made, returning to the original question might help someone. It was a MIB3 system and the year according to the OP's profile was 2020 - just like mine. I too did not renew my Skoda connect subscription after the 1st year, but you don't need to pay to have a Connect account - payment is only to obtain certain features. Despite best efforts, I too could not manually update maps. on MIB3 From what I read on Briskoda only those in Russia claimed they could update maps manually on a MIB3 system, I didn't see anyone else who was successful. There are two systems being discussed in the above replies which may confuse some folk. First is manual updates which you download yourself ( on to usb stick via a portal ) and the other is over-the-air updates. For us who have not paid for Skoda connect services, these OTA updates are for system software only. If you look at the summary of what the update involves, mapping is never mentioned. After about 18mths from new, the navigation on my MIB3 system went a little screwy. I reported the problem to my dealer who advised a software update was available. This updated had to be done at the dealer. It was done under warranty and takes 5-6 hrs to complete. ( a day and a half in my case as it didn;t update correctly 1st time round ). When I received my car post dealer update, I followed the exact same procedure as I'd done previous - downloaded the latest map update onto USB from the Skoda portal, As others have said there was no indication about how the update was progressing or when it completed, but all I did was plug in the memory stick, left it in there for a few days, and after a few hundred miles, checked the software version and noticed it had now updated - exactly the same process as I use on my 2019 MIB2 system just that it's now on a USB stick rather than a memory card. So the answer is.... If you can't manually update via the Skoda portal on an MIB3 system, contact your dealer and ask them if the system software needs updating. Skoda know about this problem.

Combined with the solar repeatedly telling porkies about all the in stock parts along with months of other excuses there is no point in an EV at £0.52/kWh. So in trying to do the right thing for the environment, a single selfish business has killed it and I don’t imagine we will go back as solar prices are now beyond us (Almost double).

Apparently there is a market mechanism which keeps the electricity prices linked to the gas price. So there is some talk about decoupling electric from gas to break that link. I’m on a 100% renewable tariff soo clearly I’d like to be paying less for making that choice. unless the politicians take the leap to fix prices we’re basically all fooked. Practically every business will close. Unfortunately i think the tories are ideologically against anything like that so we’ll see no help till they are bites out in 2yr which will be far too late.

Anyone daft enough to have as a spare such an undersized wheel / tyre and then put it on and drive with it really needs to give themselves a shake. The head cases that run about for weeks with skinny space savers on for weeks even at uk motorway speeds are ignored even by police officers.

I just looked at my highest gas usage month on my smart meter record 1800 kWh Jan 2022. Translates to 60 kWh of gas per day, so I guess ~25 kWh of electricity per day if I were on ASHP. Other months were around 1200 kWh. This averages out to be 10 kWh electricity per day for ASHP, assuming no de-icing needed in these months. My 7 years old W-E small solar install of just 2.8kWp over Jan 2022 only produced 55 kWh over the whole month. Only 8% excess, it’s pretty much nothing. Of course, typical solar install today are double the size, so might help a little as it can produce more excess. I think it is possible to rely on off-peak tariff and home battery to lower costs. In another words, if I were to install the minimum to help with ASHP costs, a 10-15 kWh home battery is best one to choose, should be able to cover most days except single coldest month. Paying for non off-peak prices is best avoided. First time charging my new car yesterday, hadn’t figured out how to stop charging at set time. My home automation to podpoint failed connection to API at perfect time and didn’t cut off charging at 4:30. Paid ~£2 over 4 hour cheap period for first 28 kWh. Another ~£2 for the final 6 kWh.

That's a Mib1 Columbus. Whilst the download is suppose to cover mib1 and mib2 Columbus it isn't clear to me how you get them in a mib1. Via DVD I think. There has been a conversation before and DVD was mentioned. Think I went off on the two layer discs. Normal writer does one but some do two.... cue the mib1 Columbus experts. MartiniB might know. Mib1 High is before I came into this. Think the moderator also knows about mib1 high units on how they got map updates into them... that might have been the cconversation that I had. So it's a combined release for mib1 and mib2 high but you just got to get it into the unit. You have got that reading in since its showing you the contents or that's what you have it on now thanks to a retrofitter say. You might find the manual on internet. Well I reckon the secret rests in the world of writable two layer DVDs but I could be wrong. If you got the unit from a retrofitter he might have circumvented the DVD by having it on a workbench using a laptop or the backend menu to do the job....

Yeah the basic maths means that ASHP will never be cheaper than gas. The efficiencies are statistical snake oil but being very simplistic heat pumps are UP TO 3x (300%)as efficient at heating water within the system than a gas boiler. So (physicists trick of a perfect model) imagine it uses 300 units of energy to heat a tank of hot water using gas. A heat pump at perfect efficiency should manage to heat the same tank of water using 100 units of energy. So super efficient and much cheapness yeah? No. The heat pump is using electricity not gas so each unit of energy costs (at least) 4x as much. Using the upcoming price cap for figures 52p for electric and 15p for gas) 300 units of gas will cost - £45.00 100 units of electricity will cost £52.00 so you’ve spent £20k on a new system which is super efficient and green etc and despite it using 1/3 the energy of gas you pay £7 more or 15% if the temperature is 0 efficiency drops to about 2x so the difference becomes £59.00 or a 133% increase over gas. But it’s actually worse than that. At low temperature to prevent icing the ashp will reverse flow and run defrost cycles on itself which is electricity you’re not using to heat your house. Heat pumps work on gradually warming your house as well so need to be on 24/7 unless the hot water is on. So you can’t take advantage of cheap rate electric. Weather changeable? Well you’re Screwed with heat pumps again. The slab takes about two days to warm through like a massive storage heater so you need to plot your heating to that schedule.

Just thought I'd say hello, my first post, my first ever Skoda. Just bought an low mileage 2019 Skoda Octavia 1.5t dsg SE. I've owned mainly vauxhalls for the previous 35 years or so & worked on them over the years. I'm hoping I'm going to have a little bit more look on the reliability front now. The last time I've touched a Skoda was around 40 plus years ago when my Dad owned one, the engine was in the back then😂

As @Tellmentions above, I seem to think that Columbus units from that year had to be updated with a DL DVD. The contents might not be the same as what’s in the download links too. Does @MartiniBknow anything?

No talent, just reckless optimism, I didn't expect to finish and just did it for the experience, in hindsight starting off really slowly as one of the very last runners was a good strategy, by half way I was overtaking lots of people which gave me a real boost, several years later experienced and overconfident and wanting to break the 2 hour barrier again (its a very hilly semi marathon) I started too fast and had everyone pass me later which was really demoralising. When you start from nothing the initial gains are impressive and very rewarding, within a couple of weeks I felt I could do the local 5km race, then after a while I thought the 10k might be achievable, then decided what the hell, I'll enter the semi in case i am capable of doing more than 10K. I trained for the Lille marathon for my 60th birthday but injured my knee then my hip through continuing to train, I had reached 31.55km in training but had to retire on the day at 26km and get on the minibus with all the other invalids. I'm looking forward to the initial gains when I start again but at my age you get slower even with high levels of training, i will never get back to where I had got to 3 years ago and I doubt I will even be able to do 5k initially.

Thank again to all the contributors to this thread. The AGM battery on my Skoda Superb (2015) was successfully replaced with the help of a diagnostics unit Antel AP200. Perhaps I will share my experience here to help others who may want to change their AGM battery on their Skoda with the Stop/Start feature. My original Varta battery from 2015 was working perfectly fine with the exception that Stop/Start feature stopped working (I see that as a blessing). Guess the voltage of the battery had dropped due to old age. I had to drive to Spain (2,400 miles round trip) so I just went to my local GSF Car Parts and they sold me a standard Drivetech 76 Ah battery when I gave them the car registration. At the time, I had absolutely no idea about AGM battery technology. Luckily I didn't change the battery but just put the new battery in the boot as standby. The 7 years old battery performed normally in my long trip albeit no "Stop/Start". On my return, I did a bit more research on Briskoda and Youtube and discovered that I did need a AGM battery and a diagnostics unit. Antel AP200 is just a little bluetooth dongle which talks to an Antel app on your smart phone. Great value for money for just £68 via Amazon. Here is how I changed the battery: Negative terminal detached followed by the positive terminal (10mm nut). Removed the 13mm securing nut on the side. No need for any tender to keep the cirucuitry alive. No radio code as in the old days. Took the lower half of the plastic outer case wall off and it made refitting the new battery with the original inner sleeve so much easier. The outer case wall is only secured by some sort of "push and click" type joints. No screws or nuts involved. Having the new battery fitted and secured, the next step is to use the Antel AP200 to tell the car control unit a new Varta AGM bettery has been put in and what capacity it has via the "BMS- Battery Management System" tab. Note that if your car takes AGM, don't replace it with a EFB although both are "Stop/Start" type batteries. GSF did give me a EFB battery when I returned the standard battery. I was warned by the Youtubers that the car would show quite a lot of "false positive" errors after a new battery is put in. In my case, I had two errors - steering assistance and brakes. The AP200 managed to reset them. Now the car is good to go with a well deserved new battery. The driver himself has new knowledge and a new tool to monitor the car and to do things like resetting the service warnings after changing oil by himself. The only regret I have is the "Stop/Start" function is working again. I have to press that cancel button everytime I drive the car!

Just bought a 2015 citigo se, lovely drive. 😀Speakers poor, no radio reception.☹️

I've received the VIN number and my skoda app is showing the car as "inactive". Current status: awaiting transport

Just fitted the Varta pictured earlier in this thread on Saturday. £147.00 delivered. Almost a like-for-like with the one that was to be replaced however they are now 70ah rather than 68ah . Coded into the car with VCDS, but noticed that the previous stored battery data was for a JCB battery serial no. 11111111 Seems to have cured the non functioning Stop-Start system.

@varooom worked like a charm! Thanks alot!

Found a cracked fuel line to the tandem pump. Replaced the fuel filter too, the old one was pitch black, probably not chganged a while ago. Primed the system with activating the sender pump, the car now start and idling fine so the filter hoses could be in right order.

It's shrunk! That reads like a Motorfinity email 😅

It worked ! Car came back last night so took the motor out, a bit of WD40 and all seems to be fine again. Thanks everyone, though when I looked at the price of a new Valeo motor - £328 from ECP I'm rather relieved! (seems astonishingly expensive for what it is)

Similar to DPF, the GPF will be anywhere from £1,000 to £1,800 inc VAT for an exchange part. As mentioned by yourself, we need to find out how they will be getting on after 5 years etc.

Silent Block = rubber to metal bonded bush, probably the engine mounting in this instance likely the dogbone bush. In the 60's - 80's the company with the patents manufacturing them in the UK was Silentbloc, the French division was the André Rubber Company, the bushes are still known generically as Silent Bloc in France, the name has all but died out in the UK.

Grease the bearing seat under the bearing, grease its internal hole betweeen the seat and bearing, then grease on top of the the bearing between it and the lower bush seat. Also you could gently split the bearing and re-grease it internally(be carefull not to loose the ballbearings though), I have found that new ones sometimes come with not enough internal lubrication. With regards the torque on the top nut, I've always just done it up as tight as possable by hand like in R_Blue's 2nd picture, and never had any problems (you should be reaching between 25-35 NM this way so not that far short of 40Nm anyway)

I have a skoda octavia combi year 2011 and I like to upgrade it... Bilstein suspension, conversion of AC air conditioning to climatronic, heated seats, electrically folding mirrors, Automatic park pilot version 2.0, exchange of swing radio for RNS510 navigation..... and now I would like to exchange RNS510 for Amundsen MIB STD2.....

A big THANK YOU to the volunteers at the Raphael Park Romford Parkrun. Great atmosphere and encouragement from them all the way round the circuit. My wife recorded part of my first run in ages and unsurprisingly I looked like I was struggling (I really was). Still I am happy that all the post covid/cold symptoms have finally been expunged and no real excuse not to get back into a more regular routine.

Other than it's necessary to pass an MOT test.

Spot on. What I do not understand is the lack of take up of tariffs like Octopus GO. Are Octopus not allowing masses to join the tarriff ? I did not even have to prove I even had an EV as I recall, maybe I did but do not remember it. I did to get the £500 grant subsidy for the charger ie send pictures of the car on the drive etc. It has not seemed super hard to use half my lecky in the 4 hour night time period. A couple of time clocks for the lecky so the washing machine and tumble dryer switch on then and luckily both my son and I are night birds and spend some of this 0030 to 0430 aware and sleep 0430 to 0900 or later in my son's case as he works afternoons and evening rather than mornings. Wondering how I can help my brother. A powerful battery device/bank has got to be worth it and there should be energy consultants offering this sort of analysis and cost saying and payback period for this heat pump setup. Presumably we are talking 10, 12 GWh plus rather than just 2, 5, or even 7 kWh needed each day ?

OK... kinda embarrassing but I've sorted it. But stuff like this is trial and error if you're a beginner with such tinkering, so I think it's still worth posting in case anyone else has the same issues. Firstly, I should have been putting the multimeter between pics 4 and 8, and pins 7 and 8. This showed me that the switched live current was fine, but there was no permanent live. Surely it had to be a fuse...? And, long story short, it was. I discovered that number 42, the fuse for the audio system, had blown - and it might have done this because there was only a 15A fuse in there and it should have been a 25A. This could be because every fuse box diagram known to man (even in Haynes) is for the left-hand drive vehicle, as some of the other fuses in my fusebox look a bit wrong to me. A very helpful fellow on this forum has posted a handy reversed layout (below). Not sure about the cruise control issue as I haven't driven it anywhere yet. Anyway, the device in question is a Pioneer DMH-A240BT, and I switched the red and yellow bullet connectors as you need to do for a Skoda - plugged the blue lead into the PC5-52 lead for the radio reception... and, hey presto, it worked. Cue major celebrations... a most welcome lift after Hull City's defeat by the Blades today. I've finally brought the old girl into the modern era! I fixed the fan heater last week - after this I might get confident enough to have a go at the front passenger window mechanism which has never worked since I've had it... -

This shows that auto manufacturers still can't produce software. I also got the same update, pressed "Update" button and got zero feedback. No progress bar or anything... And WTF: - New feature 1 - New feature 2 - New feature 3 What features are these? They provide OTA update for tens of thousands vehicles with some kind of sample text from UI designers.

Finally removed the marble. It’s wedged in the right side foot well air duct. Metal marble as well so could’ve used a magnet but hey ho Didn’t remove all the trims, only enough to dislodge the vent. Will definitely buy mesh to cover the vent, any recommendations?

I would start checking ground wires myself and checking that the connections to the battery are tight

Glad you understood the joke, and the serious point was that it tests the battery connections, battery top fuzebox and fuzable link. Unfortunately, it starts looking like a failure in the immobiliser, convenience ECU or if you're lucky the ignition switch. I suggest consulting a proper auto electrician, not a Skoda main stealer.

Which minuet(s) did you use, and does this mean that ICE was operating correctly even though nothing else was? (testing the battery, and I think the strip fuses)

It sounds like you have a major electrical issue, I would start with the ignition switch, if you have a multimeter check the main battery positive feed, clearly the battery connection itself is ok because the starter motor spins when the rest of the electrical system is malfunctioning.

My father became blind in one eye before they would consider him a priority for surgery on the other eye, that was years down the line so he gave up his driving licence, he died at 86 still with the cataract in his one working eye. I too have inherited the glaucoma, I too only have vision in one eye due to botched surgery and 5 incidences of detached retina, I have to use 2 different eyedrops twice a day, it is entirely possible that I am more sensitive to bright lights or the contrast of them than other people, it certainly was not like this when I was young. I recognise that people sometimes forget to dip their headlights and that when loaded they may be too high, a momentary flash from me is usually all it takes for them to display common courtesy and consideration, or at least it was until the advent of people abdicating their responsbilities as drivers, letting the vehicle systems do what they want, as long as they have better forward vision then its the problem of the oncoming driver being too sensitive or who should have there eyes operated on or stop driving, I suspect Felix is under 40, probably under 30. I have an even worse problem with fellow runners and head torches, when I was a bacpacker there was a thing called fireside or camp etiquette, if there was no lighting in camp you would use your headtorch but on minimum setting (they were not bright anyway back then) and never look someone in the face, if you spoke with someone you would bot turn out your lamps. In my old running club the local was in the brightly lit town square & our running routes were always on roads with street lamps, some idiots would come out of the locale into the brightly lit town square with high powered COB headtorches on maximum setting and look you straight in the eye, sme deal when out running, the worst were the ones worn around the chest, often you would see them lighting up the trees above but not the road in front. I would constantly have to shield my eyes from the burning lights, most people got the message but some people were either too dim or too selfish, on two occasions I had to be driven home by someone else and on one occasion hospitalised for a burned retina, the light and the flare that it left on my vision was 100 times worse than the high powered slit lamp that the opthalmogists use and exposure to those are strictly controlled, go beyond a certain time and you cannot drive home, the opthalmogist said he would be struck off if he had burned someone retina like mine had been. I can tell you that when you have lost one eye you take great care with the remaining one, being hospitalised through someone elses ignorance or selfishness and not knowing if you will regain your already compromised vision is not a happy experience. It's 2 days now since my 20 hour journey of which less than 8 hours was in darkness and my eyes still havn't recovered and daytime driving is a challenge, if they dont improve by Monday I will have to go to les urgences ophtalmologique because I am due to do the return journey within a few days. 3 years ago I would get dazzled very infrequently and a quick flash of the headlights sufficed, now it is far far worse and I try to avoid night driving wherever I can, it is LED and Matrix headlights that have made the difference.

there you go: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17h4myLSMpZ3dohgDJX25mkOhKLbyepEaeEeYcA3AqFY/edit#gid=0

Noticed the same on many cars, not an issue worth investigating. Needle sits at top, and doesn't move for ages, and then begins to drop as you say. General consensus on the way they calculate is they have a reserve of 7lt (read in their documents before) that makes it appear to seem full for longer.

Unless you live somewhere with very bad winter weather, you're probably better off getting a set of decent all-seasons. Michelin CrossClimate2 would be the best in that category right now.

It's official! The Scirocco will be going on track for the first time on the 17th of September!

car arrived today 11am not had much time behind the wheel get q play and try figure out what all the buttons do over the weekend.

Do you have someone near with VCDS or VCP / other that could code the battery in. Some still think Stop/Start will break thing's, many things got beefed up to handle this, starter for example, of course things will break, but my 7 year old car is still on original battery.

I love this guy when it comes to cars….

Quick update: With 'Phase 2' quickly approaching which will include remaps, exhaust and regular trips to the track I decided to leave the car with JBS for a week to get everything in tip top condition. The car has had a tiny intermittent misfire at idle for pretty much a year now so we decided to change all 4 injectors, the car now feels much more responsive, more powerful AND I got over 40 MPG driving home from JBS without even trying, is it possible that the old injectors were faulty to a point where they were impacting responsiveness, power and even fuel economy?! I hope someone more knowledgeable comes along and clarifies. While changing the injectors they also checked for carbon build up and their comments were "not factory fresh for sure, but no actual build up either, just very little signs of carbon" which I found a bit surprising considering it is now 10 years old and has 56k miles, but great to know the carbon build up issue isn't as much of an issue as I thought. Overall very happy and stage 2 can't come quick enough! Also very much looking forward for SMF and fluidampr conversion which I THINK is going to be the next visit to JBS.

Can you imagine having to pay an extra £600 for a fuel filler neck on an ICE vehicle?